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CHARLES GRIFFIN &. CO., LTD.

MEMORIALS

OF

HENRY FORBES JULIAN

CHARLES GRIFFIN & CO. LTD. Publishers

Second Edition. Revised throughout. In medium 8vo.

With numerous Plates, Maps, and Illustrations.

pp. i-xxiv+460. 21s net

CYANIDING
GOLD & SILVER ORES

A Practical Treatise on the Cyanide Process ;

its Application, Methods of Working, Design

and Construction of Plant and Costs

By H. FORBES JULIAN

Mining and Metallurgical Engineer ; Specialist in Gold ; Late Technical Adviser
of the Deutsche Gold und Silber Scheide Anstalt, Frankfort-on-Main

And EDGAR SMART, A.M.LG.E.

Civil and Metallurgical Engineer

Contents: Early History of the Cyanide Process.— Preliminary In-
vestigations.— Crushing. — Weighing and Measuring. — Percolation and
Leaching. — Principles involved in Dissolution and Precipitation of Metals.
— Dissolution of the Gold and Silver. — Temperature Effects. — Absorption
of Air by Solutions. — Action of Various Cyanide Solutions.— Sources of
Loss of Cyanide. — Precipitation. — Precipitation by Zinc. — Electrical Pre-
cipitation.— Other Methods of Precipitation. Cleaning-up, Refining, and
Smelting, — Applications of the Cyanide Process.— Double Treatment. —
Direct Treatment of Dry Crushed Ore. — Crushing with Cyanide Solution.
—Slimes.— Dissolving the Gold and Silver in Slimes. Extraction by Suc-
cessive Washings. Agitation and Natural Settlement. — Filter Presses. —
Vats. — Essential Parts of a Cyanide Plant (Construction). — Piping, Cocks,
Launders, and Buildings. — Handling Material. — Ropes and Gears for
Haulage.— Belt Conveyors.— Pumps.— Spitzlutte and Spitzkasten.— Cost
of Plant. Cost of Treatment.- Complete Plants.— Roasting.— Index.

SOME PRESS OPINIONS

"A standard work . . . supplied with an admirable scries of working drawings
and with valuable tables of costs and working results . . . an excellent index, com-
pletes a work which may be regarded both at a general treatise and an ' enquire
within ' on the cyanide process." — Minivg Journal.

"A work of paramount importance to mining engineers, and all such can be
recommended to include it in their technical library." — Mining- World.

"Full of accurate and needful information, with elaborate tabular matter and
careful working drawings."— A fAentgum.

" One of the best and most comprehensive works on cyaniding published."

South African Engineering.

"A very complete and practical treatise . . . it would be difficult to improve upon
this work on the score of all-round utility and practicality."

Mechanical Engineer.

London: CHARLES GRIFFIN & CO. Ltd., Exeter Street, Strand

Frontispiece

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Photo by Ciolina, Frankfurt

MEMORIALS

OF

HENRY FORBES JULIAN

MEMBER OF THE INSTITUTION OF MINING AND METALLURGY
JOINT AUTHOR OF " CYANIDING GOLD AND SILVER ORES"

mto Ipetis&eD in tbe ''Citanic'' Disaster

WRITTEN AND EDITED BY HIS WIFE

HESTER JULIAN

AUTHOR OF " A MEMOIR OF WILLIAM PENGELLY, F.R.S."

WITH INTRODUCTORY NOTICES BY
THE REV. J. O. BEVAN, M.A., F.G.S., F.S.A.

AND

H. LIVINGSTONE SULMAN, F.I.C.

LATE PRESIDENT OF THE INSTITUTION OF MINING AND METALLURGY
ALSO

Uettets from fte " STitanic " anlr tje " (!DarpatJia "

WITH PORTRAIT AND PLATES

LONDON

CHARLES GRIFFIN & COMPANY LIMITED

EXETER STREET, STRAND, W.C.

1914

{Ah rights reserved]

.A'

T/V
/4-0

605566

7.f.6-S-

PRINTED AT

THE BALLANTYNE PRESS

LONDON

TO THE MEMORY OF

THOSE BRAVE MEN ON
THE TITANIC

WHO SACRIFICED THEIR LIVES FOR THE SAFETY

OF THE WOMEN AND CHILDREN

I DEDICATE

THIS BOOK.

" Of all the ways in which death can come, none is
so noble as when it does so in helping to save the
lives of others.^*

Extract from a letter of Sir J. J. Thomson
on the death of Henry Forbes Julian.

PREFACE

IN compiling this memorial the writer has not been
prompted by her own feelings alone ; rather has *
she yielded to the suggestions of friends, who
were of opinion that the record of a strenuous life and
of an unselfish personality, closed under tragic circum-
stances, would interest a wider circle. In the course
of his profession as a mining engineer Henry Forbes
Julian was called upon to travel in many lands. He
was one of the pioneers of the metallurgical industry
in South Africa ; and was enabled to assist in the
development of mining work in Germany, the United
States, and Mexico. For these reasons it was felt
that a record should be preserved of his adventures
and experiences in districts some of which are still
but little known to English readers. In the text are
interspersed illustrations relating to various localities
to which reference is made.

Henry Forbes Julian visited the Victoria Falls on
the Zambesi River before many white men had had
the opportunity of seeing them ; he was amongst
the early explorers of the Barotse district ; he brought
home photographs taken by himself of some of the
unique archaeological features of ancient Mexico.
These facts will furnish some idea of the range and
novelty of his travels.

Indications are afforded in the text of his scientific
acquirements, his patient industry, his adaptability
to varied circumstances ; whilst his letters set forth

vii

viii PREFACE

his affectionate disposition and equable temperament.
In this work it has been thought desirable to include
contributions from two friends and close associates,
each of whom deals respectively with his characteristics
from a slightly different point of view : the Rev. J. O.
Bevan, Rector of Chillenden, from the personal and
temperamental, and Mr. Livingstone Sulman, late
President of the Institution of Mining and Metallurgy,
from the scientific and professional side.

The writer has felt that for her to assume the position
of a critic would be alike undesirable and unbecoming.
She has therefore simply endeavoured to trace her
husband's life as it appeared to the one who knew
him most intimately during the last strenuous decade.
The natural regret that her knowledge of metallurgy
is too limited to enable her to give any adequate
summary of his services to science is softened by the
fact that Mr. Sulman's sketch conveys a deeper
impression than could have been gathered from any
words of hers. Her thanks are due to him, to the
Rev. J. O. Bevan, Mr. W. Crooke, Mr. S. Hartland,
Dr. A. C, Haddon, and Mr. F. W. Rudler for their
interest in the progress of the Memoir, and to those
friends who have kindly allowed the inclusion of
letters. Whilst keeping journals abroad (often hastily
written on trains and steamers) she was indebted for
a few of the facts mentioned to publications looked
into at the time, which are now impossible to trace,
but she gladly records her obligation, and wishes it
were in her power to render a more adequate acknow-
ledgment of these varied sources of information.

The Jubilee of the Devonshire Association, founded
by her father, Mr. Pengelly, occurring in the year
her husband started for the fatal voyage on the
Titanic, and the desire of the latter to return
speedily to England for its celebration, suggested the

PREFACE ix

inclusion of references to the life and work of the
geologist.

The writer has entered upon her task in a different
spirit from that which animated her in setting forth
the similar memorial to her father. In that case
there was fitly rounded off a career marked, amongst
other things, by length of days. The worker had
cheerfully laid down his tools — had ended his explora-
tions— had accomplished his share of the world's work.
In respect of Henry Forbes Julian, his life was sacrificed
in the full vigour of manhood — ^the threads of the
skein of existence remained unravelled. That such
a life should have been suddenly and tragically brought
to a close belongs to the mysteries of a world higher
and more complex than ours. To his friends that
fact will lend to this volume a pathetic interest ;
whilst for those to whom he was unknown the Memoir
may afford some idea of the work already accomplished,
which showed by its quality and amount how much
more might have been expected from further researches
by him in the science he loved so well.

The Life has been written under considerable dis-
advantages, owing to the illness caused by the bio-
grapher's bereavement.

Redholme, Torquay.
March 1914.

CONTENTS

PAQX

" HENRY FORBES JULIAN "

I. BY THE REV. J. O. BEVAN xiii

n. BY H. L. SULMAN xvii

CHAPTKR

I. EARLY LIFE i

II. TECHNICAL WORK IN SOUTH AFRICA 6

III. TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AFRICA 14

IV. SCIENTIFIC WORK IN GERMANY.

TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA AND
EASTERN EUROPE 28

V. ENGLAND AND ITALY 40

VI. MARRIAGE 46

VIL PUBLICATION OF WORK ON

CYANIDING 63

VIII. HOME LIFE AT TORQUAY AND TRAVELS

IN ENGLAND 71

IX. SCIENTIFIC PAPERS AND MEETINGS.

VISIT OF CAPTAIN SCOTT 81

X. WITH THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION IN

SOUTH AFRICA 89

XI. THE UNITED STATES REVISITED no

XII. MEXICO 141

XIII. MEXICO (continued) 158

XIV. CALIFORNIA 173

xi

xii CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

XV. NEW YORK AND NEW JERSEY i8o
XVI. CANADIAN TOUR FROM QUEBEC TO

VANCOUVER 192
XVII. FOUR VOYAGES ACROSS THE

ATLANTIC 211

XVIII. VIRGINIA 229

XIX. BERMUDA 238

XX. RETURN TO ENGLAND 248

XXI. LAST MONTHS AT HOME. 263

XXII. LETTERS FROM THE THANIC AND

THE CARPATHIA 274

XXIII. THE FOUNDERING OF THE THANIC 283

XXIV. SYMPATHY OF THEIR MAJESTIES THE

KING AND QUEEN. APPRECIATION

OF FRIENDS 297

I

"HENRY FORBES JULIAN"

By the rev. J. O. BEVAN, Rector of Chillenden

AMONG those who helped to swell the death-
roll in connection with the disaster to the
^ Titanic^ few will be more missed than the
distinguished metallurgical engineer, Henry Forbes
Julian, of Redholme, Torquay, and some justification
may therefore be found for a short sketch of his life,
and an appreciation of his genius and character from
one who had special opportunities of obtaining
information and was admitted into his intimate
friendship.

To begin at the beginning, I may say that it was in
the autumn of 1880 that I made the acquaintance
of the late Mr. William Pengelly, F.R.S. In that
year the meeting of the British Association for the
Advancement of Science was held at Swansea. In
the Anthropological and Geological Sections there a
Report was presented by Mr. Pengelly in relation to
investigations into the prehistoric remains found in
Kent's Cavern. Such reports had been rendered by
him, year by year, for a considerable period.

Some time afterwards, in 1893, I was introduced
to his youngest daughter. Miss Hester Pengelly.
That introduction formed the beginning of a friend-
ship which has continued to the present time,
owing to the deep appreciation I have been led to

xiii

I

XIV " HENRY FORBES JULIAN »

entertain for one whose character and accom-
plishments have endeared her to a wide circle of
acquaintances.

In 1902, in view of her approaching marriage, Miss
Hester Pengelly held a reception at her club in London,
and it was under those circumstances that I first met
Mr. Forbes Julian. Since that day I have enjoyed
many opportunities of cementing the friendship thus
happily begun. We were accustomed to meet at the
annual gatherings of the British Association and at
the lectures of the Royal Institution, as well as in the
ordinary circles of social life. We proceeded together
in the Durham Castle to the British Association meeting
in South Africa in 1905, and during the close associa-
tion which a long sea voyage brings about, the great
capacities for friendship which Mr. Julian possessed
were fully displayed.

His married life was ideal. His wife shared his
literary and scientific tastes, and frequently accom-
panied him in his travels in America, South Africa,
and elsewhere, when scientific meetings or the exigencies
of professional work called him abroad. Those who
are acquainted with the community of affection and
interest which signalized their life together are not
surprised at the tributes that have been rendered to
his memory even from the highest in the land, which
have tended in some slight measure to comfort and
solace his widow in her first hours of loneliness and
sorrow.

The last time I saw Forbes Julian was on March 29th,
191 2. At my invitation he had attended at the
Royal Institution a lecture delivered by Professor Sir
J. J. Thomson on " Results of the Application of
Positive Rays to the Study of Chemical Problems,"
and at its conclusion he addressed to me a few playful
words regarding the reception which he suggested

" HENRY FORBES JULIAN " xv

certain chemists would probably accord to the novel
theories advanced by the distinguished physicist. He
then spoke of his intended journey ; we clasped hands
together ; I uttered a hearty wish for a pleasant time
and a speedy return. Thus we parted ! Little did
I think that I should never see his face again. Not
long after, whilst travelling in France, I was startled
by reading in the public Press of the supreme disaster
which had overtaken the most finished and powerful
illustration of man's handiwork. My heart misgave
me, for I was conscious of the possibility of the swallow-
ing up in the sea's dread vortex of at least two of my
friends — one my first pupil and lifelong correspondent,
Mr. Hipkins ; the other, Mr. Julian, whom I had
equally been led to admire and to regard vnth unfeigned
esteem.

Forbes Julian was a metallurgist of no mean order.
For many years he had been concerned in the practical
application of theory to practice in this most important
department of the industrial arts. His name and work
were recognized over three continents. His advice
and opinions were sought in lands far and widely
separated, and were valued because they were felt
to be informed by knowledge and experience, and
directed by honesty and plain dealing. He was not
only admired for his intellectual attainments, his
practical ability, and his fearlessness as a traveller, but
was also universally esteemed for his high standard of
life, his unaffectedness, and his amiability. In social
circles I particularly remarked his quiet, restrained,
equable manner. He was cheerful and serene, his
humour was delightful and contagious. Doubtless
after his marriage his character expanded and matured
under the gracious influence exercised by her who is
left to cherish his memory even as she laments his
loss.

xvi " HENRY FORBES JULIAN »

To me — to many — the world is the poorer for the
removal from our midst of Henry Forbes Julian. To
me, indeed, it is a heavy blow. I am nearing the term
of man's existence. The time is past for the making
of new friends, so that I can the less afford to lose
those already grappled " as with hooks of steel."
Although not conscious of any great capacity for
friendship, I have been singularly fortunate through
life in the knowledge and intimate relationship of a
few choice souls. The number is sadly lessened by
this catastrophe ; a link with the past is broken, and
the rapid running dovm of the sands of time forbids
the utilization of any opportunity of welding together
the severed parts. But the sunset of life illuminates
the path already trod, and its declining rays gild spaces
that have become hallowed ground. Darkness, indeed,
comes on apace, but, thank God, there is still sufficient
light to enable one to perceive the dim outhnes of the
Temple of Life — with its various altars consecrated
to the friendship of kindred souls.

This day I stand before such an altar, I call upon
the name of my friend. I thank God for his fellowship
in life and his memory in death !

Such a man must be mourned by all — by his col-
leagues, as a man of science and philosophic insight ;
by his intimates, as an incomparable companion and
friend ; by the partner of his wedded life, as a part
of herself — severed, indeed, for a time by unkindly
fate, but destined to be reunited, and that for ever.

J. O. BEVAN.

ChILLENDEN fe.ECTORY,

Canterbury.

II

" HENRY FORBES JULIAN "

By H. LIVINGSTONE SULMAN, F.I.C., M.I.M.M.,

LATE President of the Institution of Mining and
Metallurgy

" H. F. J., a Reminiscence by H. L. 5."

I FIRST met Henry Forbes Julian in 1895 at
Johannesburg, where I had been summoned in
connection with certain developments in the
cyaniding of gold ores. This wonderful metallurgical
method, which has meant so much not only to the
Witwatersrand but to the world at large, although
then but a few years old, had even thus early been
brought to a state of high efficiency by a circle of
keen, practical, and scientific engineers, whose work
indeed already made Johannesburg the Mecca of the
metallurgist.

It was truly a golden era, wherein one was privileged
to know such men as Charles Butters, W. R. Feldtman,
Andrew Crosse, Irvine Williams, Jennings, and others
of a now world-famous confraternity. Amongst these
the name of Forbes Julian held a deservedly high
place, and in the prosecution of my work I found
myself constantly referred to his exhaustive studies in
regard to the action of oxidants in cyanidation.

It was a keen pleasure to meet in him one whose
knowledge of the subject was as profound as his method
of imparting it to others was modest and generous.

xvii b

xviii " HENRY FORBES JULIAN ''

Although through stress of work I saw him but a few
times at that period, his pecuHar charm of manner left
a lasting impression upon me.

My business calling me to other countries, it was
many years before we met again ; but in the interval
Forbes Julian (in collaboration with Edgar Smart) had
published the text-book " Cyaniding Gold and Silver
Ores," which has made his name so widely known ;
in my opinion it is the best work yet written on a
subject which has already inspired so large a number
of technical authors.

It was at the Mining and Metallurgical Club in
London that we next forgathered — once again with
Mr. Charles Butters, whose consulting engineer in
England Forbes Julian now was. Thereafter, at
luncheon, Forbes Julian, my partner, Mr. H. K.
Picard, and I constantly met. We appeared naturally
to gravitate together — sometimes reviewing old
theories in the light of experience gained in the inters
vening years, but more often discussing the prospects
and problems of the present. Here again an unassum-
ing but patient thoroughness was characteristic of
Forbes Julian's technical outlook, and infalHbly indi-
cated the reason for the trust reposed in him by one
of our most brilliant and successful engineers — a man
who has little need to rest on the advice of any, but
to whom that of Forbes Julian was of long-proved
worth.

We met almost daily for some months, except during
the week-ends, which he spent at his beloved home in
Torquay. His obvious delight in returning there
each week has now a deeply pathetic aspect we could
not then foresee. Each Monday brought him back
to London, always with a fresh note of the charming
countryside and home he had left behind.

After all too short a period, he told me he would

" HENRY FORBES JULIAN " xix

be again leaving England for a while to visit Mr.
Butters in California. A few days later the news was
flashed back to us that Henry Forbes Julian, together
with the other heroes of the R.M.S. Titanic^ had given
to the world a last triumphant proof of his calm and
steadfast manhood.

CHAPTER I
EARLY LIFE

HENRY FORBES JULIAN, the son of Henry
and Maria Julian of Cork, belonged to one
of those families of mingled Irish and
Scottish descent whose members have at various
times rendered important service both to Church and
State and have proved active workers for the
British Empire. The Julians could also trace their
descent from a Huguenot family of the name of
Jtilien — a family of considerable distinction which
came from France and settled in Ireland after the
Revocation of the Edict of Nantes. Leaving their
native land for ever, they preferred exile, loss, and
the surrender of all for conscience' sake rather than
abjure the Protestant faith.

Robert Julian, the great-grandfather of the subject
of this Memoir, was appointed Governor of Spike Island.
Llis son Thomas married Margaret Forbes, of the
Aberdeenshire family well known in Scottish history, and
in 1856 their son Henry Julian married Maria Neligan,
the daughter of an Irish officer who had served all
through the Peninsular War with conspicuous heroism,
and had taken part with General Picton's Brigade at
tlie siege of Badajos. Amongst recent members of
the family may be mentioned Canon Neligan of
Dublin ; Bishop Neligan, late of Auckland, New
Zealand ; Judge Neligan ; and Miss Dorinda Neligan,
a noted hospital nurse in the Franco-German War.
She afterwards became head mistress of the Girls'

2 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

High School at Croydon, and was one of the pioneers
of the movement for the Jiigher education of women
in this country.

Henry JuHan and his wife spent the early years of
their married life at Cork, and it was in this beautiful
city that most of their ten children were born, and
that their second son, Henry Forbes Julian, first saw
the light, his birthday being on May 9th, 1861, which
in that year fell on Ascension Day. Passing his early
childhood amongst the picturesque and romantic
scenery of the South of Ireland, the boy's love of
nature early developed into almost a passion, which
remained with him throughout his life. In later
years and in the course of his extensive travels of
many thousand miles, over three continents, the
contemplation of the scenic beauties revealed to him
afforded keen and unfailing delight.

In company with his elder brother Tom, he received
his early education at a school in their native city,
but when he was about eight years of age his parents
removed to Bolton, in Lancashire. The change from
the mild climate of Cork to the bleak air of the North
of England, and to a smoky manufacturing town after
residing in a beautiful country district, was most
unwelcome to the boy. The tall chimneys of the
Lancashire factories and the depressing aspects of
the mills and workshops were a poor substitute for
the green hills of co. Cork or Kerry, and even at
this early age the longing of his heart was to be back
again amongst the loughs, mountains, and rivers that
he had known and loved so well, and to be once more
amidst the simple country people who tilled the soil,
harvested the crops, and tended cattle, far from the
noise of machinery, the turmoil and din of warehouses
and offices, and the high pressure of life in a great
commercial centre.

EARLY LIFE 3

His childhood gave little promise of the latent
powers within him and of the capacity for concen-
tration and hard work he was later to display. He
is described by those who knew him as a bright, sunny-
dispositioned boy, with all a true boy's devotion to
play, of boundless activity, and exceedingly fond of
the country and of outdoor life. In company with
his brother Tom, he would spend hours rambling
over the country-side and exploring the adjacent moors
and fens.

In 1870, soon after the family had settled in Bolton,
the war between Germany and France broke out, and
Mrs. Julian's two unmarried sisters, Dorinda and
Annie Neligan, volunteered to nurse the sick and
wounded soldiers, under the supervision of a friend
of the family, the celebrated surgeon Mr. (afterwards
Sir William) MacCormac, Surgeon-in- Chief of the
English Ambulance. Their letters from the seat of
war to their sister, describing many stirring adventures
and interesting incidents in connection with their
work within the French and German lines, excited
the boy's warmest interest, and may have served greatly
to stimulate the hopes he always entertained of future
opportunities for foreign travel. These hopes were
fully gratified when in later years he became con-
sulting engineer to the German Gold und Silber
Scheide-anstalt at Frankfort-on-Main, and in that
and other capacities made repeated visits to the
Continent.

Hereditary influences would probably have inclined
him to a professional career similar to that which so
many of his ancestors had followed, either in the
Church or the Services, had not his change of en-
vironment tended to direct his energies into other
channels. From the beginning of his school life
he evinced a decided taste for literature ; and after

4 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

being for some years at school at Bolton he began
to manifest interest in engineering and mechanical
pursuits, so that whilst still a youth he commenced
taking a practical part in the works his father had
established.

At this period of his career he was in the habit of
getting to the works every morning before six o'clock,
and there assisting his father and helping to supervise
the workmen. Such was his industry, however, that
his evenings were given up entirely to reading until
nearly midnight. The bent of his mind at this time
was towards mechanics, apparently without as yet
any thought of the science of metallurgy, which was
ultimately to become the work of his life. It was
not until a year or two later, when he was at Owens
College, Manchester, under the stimulative guidance
of Sir Henry Roscoe, that his first love of science was
aroused. Of the many avenues of research now
opening up to him, he soon determined to select
metallurgy as his special field. His spirit was stirred
with a new enthusiasm by the desire for attaining
scientific knowledge, which increased with his years.
It was with no motive of self-advancement, but from
devotion to metallurgical research, that he became
induced to abandon the literary subjects which had
attracted him in his school- days in favour of this
pursuit. Whilst still, however, continuing his mecha-
nical studies, he now threw himself actively into
investigations connected with mining and metallurgy,
the professor's influence producing a strong and
abiding impression on his mind and constituting the
turning-point in his life.

How successful he was in his studies is shown by
the fact that he ultimately became a recognized
authority on cyanidation, and the joint-author of the
most widely consulted text-book on the subject ; while

EARLY LIFE

5

his advice as a technical expert in metallurgical
matters was sought for and prized in Germany, South
Africa, the United States, Canada, and Mexico.

For the time, however, he was engrossed in his
studies and making rapid advances. In this manner
the early period of boyhood and home life passed by,
usefully, if uneventfully, and he stood on the threshold
of his career, thoroughly grounded and well equipped
for the professional studies that were to lead him far
and wide. The succeeding years were to be marked
by strenuous labours in distant lands, and by voyages
and travels to those foreign countries of which he had
dreamed in childhood. The story of this portion of
his life and of his professional work at home and
abroad will be developed in the succeeding chapters.

CHAPTER II
TECHNICAL WORK IN SOUTH AFRICA

IT was in the year 1886 that Henry Forbes Juhan,
who was then in his twenty-fifth year, left
England for South Africa. He landed at
Durban, the largest and most beautiful city in
Natal, ready and anxious to try conclusions with
Colonial life, and acutely aware of the fact that he had
still much more to learn than could be acquired in
the laboratories and lecture-theatres of his own
country. In South Africa he soon found a fitting
field for his energies, and, despite his comparative
youth and his inexperience, secured work for him-
self as a mining engineer at Barberton, Johannes-
burg, and Kimberley, superintending the shaft-sinking
and surface equipment of several mines, and the
erection and operation of a number of crushing-mills
and reduction plants.

With this work the chapter of his scientific career
may be said to have opened. Gifted with perse-
verance and the spirit of research, he attained com-
paratively early in life to considerable distinction as
a mining expert and metallurgist, and although at
first very lonely and friendless, his enthusiasm and
industry soon brought him the notice and won
him the respect of other workers in the same field.
It was by his own diligent labours that he obtained
a true conception of metallurgical principles, all
his knowledge being gained in the hard school of
experience.

6

TECHNICAL WORK IN SOUTH AFRICA 7

He needed all the support and distraction that
constant occupation could give him, for in 1887 he
suffered a severe bereavement in the loss of his mother.
Although she had been in faiHng health when he left
England, her last illness and death was an irreparable
blow to him, and had an effect from which even
his buoyant nature did not enable him to recover
for a considerable period. Like many laborious
workers, he owed much to his mother, who was a
woman of strong and beautiful character and unfailing
in her devotion to her children. He had already lost
his brothers Tom and Ernest and also two sisters,
and the thought of the loneliness and bereavement of
the remainder of his family caused him great uneasi-
ness, and made him long to be at home to comfort
and support them in the first months of grief and
sorrow. He knew, however, that he could best assist
his father by continuing to work assiduously in his
new sphere of labour, although the hardships of this
early period of his career, far from home and in a
strange land, rendered him specially sensitive.

Perhaps the most lasting impression one can gather
of him at this time is that he was endowed with a
deeply affectionate nature. In the few records that
remain, family touches are abundant and make up
a picture of extreme tenderness, showing how respon-
sive he was to all the influences of generous and
kindly affection.

Those who are acquainted with the many tempta-
tions which beset men's lives in mining camps will
realize the strength of purpose and manliness of
character which enabled the young metallurgist to
pass through them unharmed, and to preserve amongst
these strange and distant surroundings the warmth
of his love for his relatives at home.

A quarter of a century ago the South African mines

8 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

were crowded with adventurers from all parts of the
world, who were indulging in golden hopes and
spending their energies often in the vain pursuit of
that shadow — sudden wealth. Everywhere men were
searching for gold, and the success of the minority
stimulated the less fortunate. A few made large
fortunes, but many were ruined, not being content
with the slower and safer profit of other forms of
labour. From this struggle for riches there ensued
the inevitable loose commercial morality and the
accompanying low standard of public and social life,
so often characteristic of such communities. But
this atmosphere seems never to have affected Forbes
Julian. From boyhood his course had been marked
by uprightness of purpose and action and devotion
to the cause of duty. He was averse to betting and
gambling and a total abstainer from alcoholic beve-
rages. Temperance was less common in the eighties
than at present, and he had often been warned by
friends of the danger of drinking water only, in districts
where sanitation was so imperfect. In later years,
however, those who had feared for his health as a
teetotaller assured him that he owed his immunity
to disease in the many malarial districts he visited in
different quarters of the globe chiefly to his temperate
habits !

It has been frequently stated that a man's character
is best revealed by his behaviour on his travels, as it
can then be judged whether his disposition remains
the same when the restraints of public opinion and
the force of habit are removed. It will be seen that
the young metallurgist never drifted with the pre-
vailing current when he broke ground for himself in
a fresh country. He was always true to his best
nature.

His earliest work was at Barberton, which had

TECHNICAL WORK IN SOUTH AFRICA 9

recently been opened up as a mining centre, for it
was in 1886 — the year of Forbes Julian's arrival in
South Africa — ^that the discovery had been made of
the Sheba Mine there. This is said to have been found
quite accidentally by a prospector v^ho, after several
months of unsuccessful search, seated himself idly
one day on a piece of rock near the footpath which
he and his comrades had worn in their walks between
their huts and the area they were prospecting. A
chance blow from his hammer struck off a piece of
the rock, which at once attracted his attention and
concentrated all his energies on the locality. He
had, in fact, discovered the famous gold-mine, the
rich yield from which was afterwards quite pheno-
menal. This at once created a fever of excitement in
South Africa. A rush was made to Barberton, men
flocking there in hot haste from all parts of the world,
although many were entirely without experience of
the mining industry.

Early in 1887 it is stated that there were between
five and ten thousand people in the district. The
collection of huts soon grew into an important town-
ship, with hotels and public buildings. The natural
consequence of this scramble for wealth was wild
speculation ; doubtful companies were rapidly floated
and unscrupulous operations led to the inevitable reac-
tion and collapse, distrust becoming widely prevalent.

Almost immediately afterwards the steady develop-
ment of the far richer Witwatersrand reefs made that
area the centre of attraction and turned thither the
tide of gold-seekers.

The neighbourhood of Barberton was at first very
unhealthy. Even when sanitary methods improved,
malaria still lurked in the low-lying areas along the
river-banks. The climate was also extremely trying
in summer to those coming direct from England, but

10 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

Forbes Julian does not appear to have been seriously
affected by this or any of the other disadvantages he
encountered. The situation of the little town nestling
under the shelter of the Kaapsche Berg greatly
attracted him. The locality is remarkably picturesque
and embraces an extensive viev^ of the De Kaap
Valley, whilst shady creeks of rare beauty abound
clothed with tree-fern, eucalyptus, cactus, aloe, and
many other subtropical plants and trees.

In the year 1887 he left Barberton, and with his
colleague, Mr. Wanliss, who was then acting with
him as consulting engineer to the Johannesburg
Pioneer Company, erected a small plant to treat
blanketings from the company's first stamp mill.
A process was worked out by which the gold could be
dissolved out of the ore and precipitated without
separating the solution. An account of this in his
own words shows that it involved the use of "an
amalgamation barrel, a receiver for the treated ore,
and an amalgamated copper plate with mercury wells.
. . . The gold extracted by this little plant amounted
to about ninety ounces per month.

" The assays showed that a considerable amount
of gold still remained undissolved in the tailings, and
it was found impracticable to get anything like com-
plete precipitation of the dissolved gold in the time
allowed. A longer treatment might have been given
and a better extraction obtained, but that meant a
decreased output of gold, which is a serious item to
a small struggling company just beginning operations.

" A much more perfect plant was erected at the
Roodepoort United Main Reef Company's mill in
1888." 1

^ " Cyaniding Gold and Silver Ores," by H. Forbes Julian
and Edgar Smart, pp. 3 and 4. London : Charles Griffin
and Co. Ltd.

TECHNICAL WORK IN SOUTH AFRICA ii

It is interesting to notice that at the same time
that this small plant, erected by Forbes Julian and
Mr. Wanliss, was being used by the Pioneer Company,
other workers in the same branch of science — Mr. J. S.
MacArthur, Mr. R. W. Forrest, and Mr. W. Forrest-
were experimenting in Scotland with samples of gold
ore. They applied in October 1887 for a patent,
based on similar principles, in Great Britain for " the
purpose of extracting gold and silver from ores by
dissolving out the metals with a solution containing
cyanogen or a cyanide." Their work lent to the
gold-mining industry valuable assistance, which has
since been greatly appreciated by all mining engineers
and metallurgists, and their names will always be
connected with the successful working out of the
cyanide process.

During the years 1888 and 1889 Forbes Julian was
busily engaged on fresh researches in connection with
the dissolution of gold in ores, by chlorine and also
by cyanide, under high pressure, with subsequent
precipitation by an electric current and by sodium
amalgam. This work resulted in some applications
for patents in South Africa. For oxidized ores the
dissolution of the gold by chlorine under pressure of
air and precipitation by sodium amalgam was as
perfect as could be desired ; in fact, some blanketings
containing 34 oz. per ton had only about 7 dwt. left
in the residue, equivalent to a 99 per cent, extraction.
The fine gold was dissolved and re-precipitated, while
the coarse gold was made easily amalgamable. But
when pyritic ore was being dealt with, it was found
that the solution of the gold became impracticable
without an excessive consumption of chlorine, and it
was necessary again to revert to the use of cyanide
as a solvent, while in order to precipitate the dissolved
metals an electric current was employed, the anode

12 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

being iron or lead peroxide, and the cathode mercury.
A number of experiments were carried on at Johannes-
burg and Kimberley in 1888-89 embodying these
latter ideas and dealing with ton lots at a time.

In the midst of these investigations recreation and
diversion were to be found in the pursuit of big game —
for Forbes Julian was a good shot — and in travelling
through the native districts, which were at that time
somewhat unsettled and dangerous to visit. He
explored many places where but few white men had
previously penetrated in the Barotse district and the
Upper Zambesi Basin, frequently journeying on foot
or being jolted in ox- wagons or cramped in canoes.
Although somewhat shy and diffident, he was fond of
congenial companionship, and as he became better
acquainted with his environment his amiability and
unaffectedness won him popularity with many of the
rough but well-meaning comrades by whom he was
surrounded, whilst his force of character gained their
respect.

He also formed a few loyal and lasting friendships
with men eminent in the mining and scientific world —
friendships to be severed only by death.

Mr. H. L. Sulman, who first knew him in the
Transvaal, writes :

"... His sterling qualities gradually asserted them-
selves ; his modesty, patience, thoroughness, and his
broad yet clear sight, marked him as exceptional
among many more apparently brilliant men. There
was a quiet magnetism of personality he unconsciously
exerted, so unconsciously that we only now realize
by missing it. We know that he met death with
clear, calm vision, just as he looked at other problems —
unflinchingly. ..."

Mr. Charles Butters, another mining friend of the
early South African days, with whom he was destined

TECHNICAL WORK IN SOUTH AFRICA 13

in future years to have much intercourse and corre-
spondence, writing from California, says :

" His memory will always be an inspiration to me.
We always think of him first as a gentleman because
of his gentleness, sweetness of disposition, extreme
modesty and consideration for others, never being
willing to hurt anyone's feelings. These are the
qualities that are first in man, and they are the qualities
which one always remembers, but when added to
such a brilliant intellect and well-stored mind it only
makes them doubly precious."

Another fellow-worker in the same field of scientific
activity describes him as a brilliant but most modest
comrade, and goes on to say : " His untiring energy
and enthusiasm helped everyone who had the good
fortune to come in contact with him, and his personal
high standard of life won the admiration of all."

His colleague, Mr. Edgar Smart, writes from the
Transvaal :

*' In the early days Mr. Julian was consulting engineer
to the Johannesburg Pioneer General Mining Com-
pany. I first knew him in Kimberley in 1889. He,
however, seldom talked of himself, and scarcely ever
on business, his interests lying in scientific and
technical matters. . . . His kindness to my wife, and
to me, will never be forgotten by either of us. . , ."

CHAPTER III
TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AFRICA

IT is, perhaps, only those who, having visited
South Africa in the early days of mining enter-
prise and development, have themselves expe-
rienced it w^ho can realize the sense of loneHness so
often felt by British settlers and the utter lack of
many of the requirements regarded at home as almost
indispensable to social life. Added to this, the pro-
fessional man of those days was confronted with almost
ceaseless toil, which monopolized his energies and
prevented his deriving advantage from such oppor-
tunities as might from time to time present themselves.
Hence the need for hopefulness and patience, and
hence, likewise, it arose that, although his courage and
perseverance secured to Forbes Julian opportunities
for a wider sphere of activity and advancement in
life, circumstances he could neither influence nor
control prevented his deriving benefit from them
when they came.

Like so many men of British race who are resident
in the Colonies, Forbes Julian was a staunch Impe-
rialist, and in his travels in the Barotse district and in
the Upper Zambesi Basin he was impressed, as a
pioneer of Empire, by the position of these districts,
within easy reach of British South Africa. Enjoying
a fertile soil, full of natural resources, and having many
fine waterways, it seemed strange to him that these
regions had been so long neglected.

Becoming convinced that there were great openings

14

TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AFRICA 15

for British trade and industries in these forest regions
and plains of Central Africa, he secured, by dint of
patience and perseverance and after many hardships
and adventures, certain valuable rights and concessions
from the native chiefs for the development of these
fertile lands and their opening up to British com-
merce.

South and Central Africa in the eighties offered a
fine field not only to the metallurgist but also to the
traveller and pioneer. Forbes Julian, who was an
enthusiastic traveller and a keen observer, traversed
large tracts of country which had only recently become
accessible. With companions from Kimberley he
visited King Khama's territory ; but on arriving
there they were met by a dire disappointment. The
king informed them that they could not in safety
proceed further with their wagons and oxen ; that
he was responsible for their lives to the great White
Queen, and that he would not sell them any oxen for
proceeding on the journey which had been contem-
plated, as further travel would be extremely dan-
gerous. The other members of the party were finally
constrained to remain in Khama's territory, to rest
themselves and their cattle, and be content with the
journey already accomplished. Not so Forbes Julian,
who had that quiet energy of temperament which
generally enabled him to achieve what he had under-
taken, and was not easily discouraged by difiiculties,
even though they might appear insurmountable to
others. Being determined to push on alone, he accom-
plished a visit to the native chief or King Lewanika,
and other native chieftains, and had the satisfaction
of reaching the Falls of the Zambesi.

These impressive Falls, which were then but little
known, are twice as broad and more than twice as
high as those of Niagara. The immense volume of

i6 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

water Is precipitated into a deep narrow fissure, from
which there is but one small outlet to the chasm.
This has been appropriately named the " Boiling
Pot " by Europeans and the " Thunder Mist " by
the natives.

To those who have never beheld it the beauty and
splendour of the scene are indescribable and incon-
ceivable. Indeed it is impossible to comprehend the
wonderful spectacle in a single visit.

The traveller stayed some time studying the Falls
from several different points of view, and became
increasingly fascinated by their grandeur and sub-
limity.

The first impression of these wonders of nature
constituted one of those epochs in life which could
never be forgotten by one whose love of fine natural
scenery was so strong, and he felt stirred to the greatest
enthusiasm. The view of the Victoria Falls and the
poetic beauty of the " rain forest " and Zambesi
Valley more than repaid him for the perils of the way,
which had been neither few nor slight. The necessity
of having to walk the last few hundred miles with
black men as his baggage-carriers and only companions
rendered the exploit extremely hazardous and more
daring than wise. This will be gathered from the
fact that when on the return journey he was prostrated
by fever, he discovered that the natives had begun
discussing the chances of his death, and questioning
amongst themselves whether they should not at once
put him out of the way. Having always been careful
to treat them humanely and justly, he had hitherto
experienced no difficulty in their management, but
with the helplessness of illness his influence over them
as a white man was endangered. He had picked up
a good deal of their language, and was thus able speedily
to gather from their excited talk and violent looks

TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AFRICA 17

and gestures that they were plotting against his life.
The situation was serious, for he felt convinced that
they intended to murder him, and the truth flashed
upon him that he must instantly demonstrate his
ability to defend himself, which was probably in doubt.
Rising up and taking his rifle with him, he aimed at
a distant object, striking it immediately, as he was,
fortunately, an excellent shot. The effect was remark-
able. The carriers looked at him with astonishment,
followed his movements intently, and, perceiving that
he had apparently recovered, gave him no further
trouble.

The attack of fever gradually subsided, and he was
able to recommence his march and rejoin in perfect
safety the other members of his party in King Khama's
territory, full of thankfulness for his preservation from
danger and well satisfied with the results of his exciting
journey. " He always seemed incapable of fear,"
wrote one who knew him intimately.

On the way back to Kimberley with his companions
other troubles assailed them, and the forces of nature
seemed arrayed against the party. Some of the rivers
were in flood, and they had to make repeated halts.
The difficulties presented by these swollen streams
where the wagons sank so deeply, and by the miry
banks where the oxen could scarcely stir them, will
be realized by all who have travelled in these districts.
On one occasion their wagons overturned while
fording the waters, and several almost indispensable
possessions were lost. By strenuous exertions and at
great personal risk he was, however, able to recover
some valuable papers, to secure which had been the
main object of his long and arduous journey, for, in
spite of many obstacles on this expedition, he had
acquired certain concessions in the Barotse district.

This district is frequently alluded to as the Barotse

1 8 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

Empire. Forbes Julian uses this expression, and that
eminent ethnologist Dr. A. C. Haddon speaks of the
" Barotse Empire " in his Address to the Anthro-
pological Section of the British Association at Cape
Town in 1905. It was not merely a province, but
was looked upon as an empire by the Portuguese,
Lewanika's authority being recognized by several
tribes. His intelligence enabled him to desire educa-
tion and civilization for his people, and the increase
of commerce and industry.

The result of Forbes Julian's negotiations on this
occasion is dealt with in the following communication
from a well-known firm of solicitors, to which is
appended his own report.

To the Rt. Hon. Lord Knutsford, Secretary of State
for the Colonies

KiMBERLEY,

South Africa,
6th July, im^.

My Lord, — I have the honour to communicate with your
Lordship with reference to the regions in the Upper Zambesi
Basin.

From the latest English newspapers received here it appears
that considerable attention has lately been directed in England
to the question of the rights over and to territories of indepen-
dent native chiefs situate beyond British Bechuanaland.

I am instructed by Mr. Henry Forbes Julian to inform your
Lordship that he has acquired considerable and valuable rights
and concessions over the Barotse Empire, some particulars
concerning which are set forth in the accompanying Memo-
randum prepared by Mr. Julian and entitled " Notes on the
Barotse Empire Past and Present.'*

I also enclose a sketch-plan showing the principal navigable
rivers, position of provinces, &c., in the Barotse Empire.

Your Lordship will observe from the general remarks con-
tained in the " Notes " that it is Mr. JuHan's intention shortly

TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AFRICA 19

to enter into negotiations with the view of opening up and
developing the country of the Barotse tribes.

In view of the discussions presently taking place in England
regarding Central Africa, Mr. Julian has deemed it advisable
that your Lordship and Her Majesty's Government should
be made acquainted with the true position of affairs so far
as the Barotse Empire is concerned, in order that the English
Government, in dealing with the important question of Central
Africa, may be in a position to know how matters stand.

Should your Lordship deem it advisable in the interest of
the British nation that any further information be supplied
to you, I shall be prepared to furnish further particulars.

As matters progress I shall probably again have the honour
of communicating with your Lordship.

Your Lordship might kindly give instructions that the
word " Confidential " be endorsed on the envelope of any
letters addressed to me with reference to this matter.

All communications connected with this matter will be
considered by your Lordship as being confidential, and it is
understood that the information furnished will only be used
for Government purposes.

I have the honour to be,

My Lord,
Your obedient servant,

J. Dunoon Duncan.

NOTES ON THE BAROTSE EMPIRE RELATIVE TO
ITS COMMERCIAL DEVELOPMENT

By henry FORBES JULIAN

General Features of the Country

The Barotse Empire is situated between parallels 19° S.
and 11° S. and is from 19° E. to 30° E. of Greenwich.

It is bounded on the north by the watershed dividing the
Zambesi and Congo River systems ; on the north-west by
the Kasai River and the watershed dividing the Zambesi and
Quanza River systems ; on the west by the River Kwando ;
on the south by the Rivers Kwando and Zambesi ; on the
cast the boundary is undefined, but the Chief Lewanika
maintains that his territory extends to the River Loangwa

I

20 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

and demands tribute of all chiefs to that point. Zumbo is
considered outside the territory, but the towns Maashi, on the
west side of River Kwando, and Kalende, on the north bank
of the River Kasai, belong to the Barotse chief.

The provinces are eleven in number, viz. Mamboii, Mam-
bunda, Macei, Barotse, Masubia, Matutala, Makuangua,
Mankoia, Mashikulumbi, Matoka, Mashapatan.

The area is, roughly, about 280,000 square miles, and the
mean elevation is about 3000 ft. above sea-level. There are
very extensive plateaus or elevations of 2300 to 4500 ft. above
sea-level which have salubrious climates, while the valleys and
low-lying parts are malarial during portions of the year.
Considering the tropical position of the country, it is on the
whole remarkably healthy, large portions of it being well
adapted for Europeans.

The population is very much denser than any part south
of the Zambesi, and in many places is simply teeming, but
figures can only approximate. However, placing it at a very
low estimate of twenty-two to the square mile, this would
me-an a population of 6,160,000.

The country contains a magnificent network of waterways
equal to any natural system in the world, both for purposes of
navigation and irrigation. The Zambesi and its tributaries
furnish over two thousand miles that are navigated at present
by the natives, and can be used for commercial purposes.
During a portion of the year canoes and flat-bottomed boats
can pass from the Zambesi to the Kasai, a tributary of the
Congo, and thence nearly eight hundred miles through a
thickly populated country within the limits of the Congo
free trade area.

Products

The products of the country, valuable to Europeans, are
too numerous to mention, but a few of the most important,
which are readily obtainable in great quantities, are as follows :

Vegetable Products

India-rubber. Caoutchouc of four kinds is known to the
natives and taken to the coast for exportation.

Dyes of various kinds are known : brehilla weed is very
abundant, indigo is also cultivated in many places, and some
red and yellow colours are to be had in great quantities.

TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AFRICA 21

Guano of various kinds, useful in agriculture and the arts,
is to be had for very little trouble.

Oils are obtained from several cultivated plants and trees
and carried to the coast for shipment to Europe.

Cotton is very extensively grown and may be obtained in
great quantities. It is long-stapled with a strong fibre. Cotton-
cloth is manufactured by the natives in a small way.

Fibres of great length and strength are very abundant, and
are largely made into cords and ropes by the natives.

Timber. Extensive forests of valuable timber are in all
parts of the country. Some are many miles in extent, con-
taining vegetable ivory, palms, ebony, lignum-vitas, and
immense quantities of beautiful varieties of mahogany and
rosewood, and hard woods unknown in European markets.

Animal Products *

Ivory. Elephants* tusks are bought from the king by
traders and exported. As the king monopolizes all elephants'
tusks and his people are not allowed to trade in them, the
destruction of elephants is very small, about 5000 to 7000 lb.
of ivory being the quantity sold annually.

The ivory of the hippopotamus, wild boar, rhinoceros, and
crocodile teeth have not as yet been traded in, but can be
obtained in great quantities.

Furs and skins of wild animals are to be had in large numbers,
and a very profitable trade has been done in this line for many
years.

Feathers. Marabou may be had in limited quantities. Ostrich
wild-bird feathers are obtained from an adjoining territory.

Bees'-wax is very abundant and is sent to the coast for
exportation.

Mineral Products

Gold exists in alluvial form and in reefs or lodes. About
the end of last century large quantities of gold were obtained
by one tribe of natives from alluvial deposits, from various
parts of the country. They sold it to the Jesuits and Arabs
of the east coast. A brisk trade was done for a time, but a
war broke out which almost exterminated this tribe and
caused the industry to cease. The old workings are still
discernible, but no tribe has learned the art of washing the
alluvium,

22 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

Auriferous quartz reefs exist in many places, but tkeir
value is unknown.

Silver is abundant and is found in a great variety of minerals.
Some large deposits of argentiferous copper-ore are w^orked
and smelted by the natives. The metal extracted, which is
an alloy, is made into ornaments. Argentiferous galena exists
in abundance, and native silver is sometimes found and melted
into ornaments.

Cinnabar (sulphide of mercury) is found in a very pure state.
It is quarried by the natives, and on account of its brilliancy
of colour is used, mixed with fat, as a dye for the hair.

tinstone is said to exist, but has not been made use of.

Precious Stones. Some ornamental and beautifully coloured
stones are found and prized by the natives, but whether valuable
or not is unknown. Diamonds are said to exist in an adjoining
territory.

The Natives

The population consists of eleven tribes, each of which has
its own characteristics. Some are noted as iron smelters and
makers of weapons and agricultural implements. Others
are smelters of copper and makers of ornaments. Several
tribes are famed as wood-workers and makers of canoes, while
others excel as river men, being able to navigate dangerous
rapids with great skill. All are born traders, and are often
known to travel hundreds of miles to trade with a few pounds
of salt and cured fish. As agriculturists they are famous and
are highly skilled in the art of irrigation, often damming up
high streams and conducting the water for miles by channels
to fertilize the lands. In intelligence they are vastly superior
to any tribe south of the Zambesi, but (like all native tribes
in an uncivilized state) they have little foresight and cannot
realize the wealth that might be made by energy properly
directed, the subject of supply and demand being quite
beyond their comprehension. However, all tribes are excellent
labourers, very willing and obedient, and glad of the oppor-
tunity to work for wages, which are as a rule paid in and
represented by calico and their food for one month's work.
In their own way they are quiet and industrious, ever making
some article of use or ornament, such as hoes, knives, assegais,
copper and ivory bangles, rude stone and woodwork of great
variety, and excellent baskets and mats, many other articles

TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AFRICA 23

being made which show both skill and taste. Cotton-spinning
and weaving are also carried on to a limited extent.

Food-stuffs are grown in immense quantities — maize, millet,
dhura corn, &c. Cattle, sheep, and goats are also bred largely
by most of the tribes.

Each tribe makes an annual tribute to the Chief Lewanika
consisting (amongst other things) of articles of their own
manufacture and sheep, furs, skins, &c. All ivory at present
obtained is esteemed to be the king's own and forms the chief
part of his revenue. With the articles of tribute and the
ivory the chief buys such goods as cotton and woollen
cloth, &c., the greater part of which he generally divides
among the headmen and councillors.

Speaking generally, the natives of the Barotse Empire have
qualifications which would constitute them a strong, thriving
people, if only their abilities were trained to flow in a proper
channel.

Commercial Development

Owing to the country being situated at a great distance from
the coast and the difficulties to be encountered in travelling
overland, it may be said to lie outside the reach of the ordinary
individual trader. Occasionally a half-caste or native trader
comes from the east or west coast to exchange various cloths
and beads for ivory, but the only real trading which has been
done has been by a few traders who have sent wagons of goods
from the South by the Katuchara desert route, a long and
tedious journey. The amount of trade that could be effected
by this approach under the present circumstances must of
necessity be very limited, owing to the fact that articles of
exchange must be of first-class order (such as feathers,
furs, &c.) to pay for the heavy expense of transport. This class
can only be obtained in limited quantities, but the trade that
could be done in a lower class of goods, such as cotton, india-
rubber, timber, guano, oils, dyes, minerals, &c., in exchange
for manufactured articles of civilization is practically unlimited.
To carry on this profitably, it is absolutely necessary that some
cheaper and more rapid mode of communication with the coast
be obtained than the route in the southern parts.

The distance from the main stream of the Zambesi to the
west coast is about six to seven hundred miles, over a country
with many natural facilities of approach which could be made

24 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

easy to travel. There would be no difficulty In arranging
with the Portuguese for a port on the west coast as an exit
and entrance, and in establishing a number of stations for
trading on the navigable streams and in places easy of access,
which should be within easy communication with one or
more central stations to receive goods from the coast and to
dispatch those of exchange. If this were carried out with
good distributive organization, a large and lucrative trade
would be rapidly established, ever increasing with the success
of the undertaking.

At the same time Forbes Julian drew up a carefully
compiled paper dealing with the possible amount of
trade during the first few years and the probable
average quantities of some of the chief articles to be
obtained. This was also dispatched to the Secretary
of State for the Colonies.

It was discouraging to find that this correspondence
with Downing Street produced no result. It was felt,
however, by his friends that this journey earned for
him the distinction of assisting in organizing the way for
the developments afterwards achieved in these districts.

The Imperial side of the work had appealed forcibly
to him, as it does always to those pioneers who are
alive to any great advantages to be gained for the
Empire — this vast inheritance committed to our
charge — and amongst those who have essayed this
task his name is therefore enrolled.

Cecil Rhodes also obtained similar concessions
throughout the same districts, and was able to utilize
these advantages in a manner that had been impossible
to the young and unknown metallurgist. Fortunately,
a cheerful, well-balanced mind prevented him from
dwelling on this disappointment. Through his
ancestry he had that invaluable inheritance of the Scot,
the faculty of hard work, so at this juncture he turned
his mind all the more resolutely to technical labours.

Perils hy field and flood and the dangers of death

TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AFRICA 25

from fever or by the treacherous hands of natives
w^ere not the only risks that confronted him at this
time. On returning from Kimberley to the neigh-
bourhood of Johannesburg, he found that there W2is
great fear of famine on the Rand.

He was again engaged w^ith metallurgical w^ork, but
(as v^ill be readily understood) many difficulties attended
the labours of engineers during the early days of gold-
mining in the Transvaal. From the very commence-
ment the scarcity of native labour had been keenly
felt. Until August 1892 there v^as no raiWay com-
munication v^ith the coast, and consequently all
machinery and supplies had to be conveyed by oxen
or mules, a mode of transport v^hich w^as both tedious
and expensive. The question of food-supply w^as
most pressing, for in the autumn of 1889 the dwellers
on the Witwatersrand were menaced by famine unless
special efforts succeeded in the augmentation of existing
supplies. It is estimated that the population then
amounted to about forty thousand persons, of whom
twenty- five thousand were white people and the
remaining fifteen thousand were natives. The Govern-
ment offered a bonus of ^20 each to those who reached
Johannesburg with the first two hundred and fifty
wagons of food from beyond the Transvaal border.
By this means, and by the aid and co-operation of the
Natal Government, the crisis was averted.

The writer of an article in the Rand Daily Mail of
Johannesburg for April 23rd, 191 2, alludes in the
following terms to the metallurgist's early labours in
South Africa :

Mr. Julian played a very important part in the opening of
the gold industry, as in 1888-9 he introduced the Julian
patent process for the recovery of gold from accumulated
tailings. He built his plant at Tarry's yard in Kimberley,
and it says much for his energy, jis his huge tanks had to be

26 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

conveyed to Johannesburg by wagon transport. He subse-
quently served as battery manager to the Salisbury Company
and the Wemmer Company, but his mind and attention were
always devoted towards some new invention for the benefit
of the industry.

The working methods of the first stage of the gold-
mining industry on the Rand were based on the old-
established lines of amalgamation and concentration.
In the years 1890 and 1891, however, the gold-mining
industry entered on what has been termed the second
stage of its development by the introduction of the
cyanide process. As Forbes Julian writes : " It was
not until the year 1891, when a plant was erected at
the Robinson Gold Mining Company to treat tailings
by the MacArthur-Forrest process, that the treatment
of ore by cyanide had crystallized into a form accept-
able to the mining world. From that time it may be
said that the cyanide process, which has proved such
a phenomenal success, dates " (" Cyaniding Gold and
Silver Ores," p. 6).

The great contribution that the mining engineers
of Johannesburg have made to the world's industrial
advancement is the successful application of the
cyanide process, metallurgy in South Africa being
practically covered by it. Although the mining
methods used there are largely applications of prin-
ciples practised in Australia and the United States,
still in metallurgy the pioneers of the industry took
up a process which in America had been discredited
and almost abandoned.

The rapid development of the riches of the Rand
forms a remarkable epoch in the mining history of
the world. The vast natural wealth attracted men
from all quarters of the globe, and a great cosmopolitan
community very speedily settled in the Transvaal.

TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AFRICA 27

During the years 1890 and 1891 Forbes Julian
interested himself in the application of oxidizers to
cyanide solvents, making many experiments on the
use of air blown through working solutions, and on
the addition of more energetic oxidizing agents for
facilitating the dissolution of gold in ores. He found
that the results obtained were very encouraging, and
in February 1892 protected his application of the use
of air blown through the solution and of the more
energetic oxidizing agents for this purpose by his
Transvaal Patent No. 335. He continued experi-
menting with a large number of organic and inorganic
oxidizers, the results obtained being best given in
his own words :

" It was found that many are undesirable owing
to their forming soluble compounds that increase
the density of the solutions, and in some cases forming
complexes with the cyanide of no value in the process.
This increase of density has generally the effect of
decreasing the solubility of the metal, by offering
greater resistance to the diffusion of the dissolved
oxygen molecules. It is therefore advisable, when
employing oxidizers, to select one that introduces
only oxygen or oxygen and water " {op. city p. 79).

Having now spent several years in South Africa,
he determined in the spring of 1893 to take a holiday
and visit his relatives in England ; and the time passed
with his father and sisters at their home in Lancashire
was naturally a very happy period.

CHAPTER IV

SCIENl^IFIC WORK IN GERMANY AND TRA\^LS
IN NORTH AMERICA AND EASTERN EUROPE

WHILST in Europe in 1893 Forbes Julian
visited Germany and Austria, having
accepted the important post offered to
him of Technical Adviser to the German Gold und
Silber Scheide-anstalt, at Frankfort-on-Main. His
seven years of absence from Europe had embraced a
period of strenuous endeavour, of long journeys by
land and sea, and several exciting experiences. Feel-
ing, however, that his metallurgical v^ork needed con-
firmation and elucidation from experience in other
mining centres, he determined during the summer of
the same year to prolong his holiday by crossing the
Atlantic and visiting North America.

Landing in New York, he journeyed across the
continent to San Francisco, visiting Chicago, Salt
Lake City, and several other important places on the
way, and gathering at the mining camps all the
information that he could pick up. The United
States offered in this respect a splendid field for
observation in connection with his work.

The tour was entirely successful in its leading
object, but, keenly as he entered into the importance
of these ' prof essional studies, the journey was chiefly
memorable on account of the great enjoyment he
derived from the beautiful localities visited. Not
only the luxuriant vegetation of California, but also
the magnificent scenery of the Rocky Mountains and

28

SCIENTIFIC WORK IN GERMANY, ETC. 29

of the Great Lakes, aroused in him the warmest
enthusiasm, as he viewed the precipitous heights and
deep canons of the Rockies and rambled on the
beautiful banks and amongst the islands of the Lakes.
He was also greatly impressed by the Hudson River
with its noble colonnades of basalt, named the " Pali-
sades."

Before leaving the American continent he made a
tour over the Canadian border, delighting in the
fine scenery, and interested in all he saw of the new
cities being called into existence by British energy
and perseverance. The Falls of Niagara were visited
before concluding the journey. He was keenly
impressed by their magnificence, and considered them
grander, though less beautiful, than the Falls of
the Zambesi, which he had explored a few years
earlier.

During these travels Forbes Julian studied with
close attention the political and social conditions in
the United States.

He returned to Europe during the autumn for a
brief visit to his family in England preparatory to his
return to South Africa.

The long course of metallurgical work in the Trans-
vaal had enabled him to appreciate the significance
of all that had been seen in the American mining
camps, and had greatly stimulated his scientific
proclivities. The year 1 893 was busy and eventful, for,
in addition to the journeys undertaken in Europe and
America, he conducted experiments on a large scale
for the Frankfort Gold und Silber Scheide-anstalt ;
in South Africa at the Rand Central Ore Reduction
Company's works in connection with the precipitation
of the gold from cyanide solutions.

He continued to be closely engaged in metallurgical
work, and in the following year, 1894, took out a

30 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

patent in the Transvaal for the use of cathodes made
on the principle of those employed in galvano-plastic
work. To use his own words ;

The cathode consisted of metallic or other surface, coated
with a conducting substance. Thus iron coated with plum-
bago or waxed conducting substances were tried, the great
advantage being that the bullion could be stripped off the
cathodes and melted into bars without being contaminated
with base metals. With rich solutions the process worked
well, but when poor in bullion it became difficult to get a film
deposited evenly, so that the effective electrode surface was
diminished. Another cathode on the same principle was
employed, which consisted of cotton or other fibrous threads
or woven material, rendered conducting by one of the well-
known methods. These passed over rollers up and down a
number of times through each compartment of the precipi-
tating box, using lead peroxide anodes. These threads were
continuous in long lengths, and to remove the deposited metal
they were drawn between rollers at the head of the box and
cut off. A great advantage of this method is that a clean-up
could be conducted very often, with only a short stoppage ;
and further, that the bullion obtained is not necessarily
contaminated with other metals, as the bullion-covered threads
have only to be smelted with borax and an oxidizing agent
(" Cyaniding Gold and Silver Ores," p. 149).

In July 1894 he again set sail for Europe, leaving
Cape Town by the mail steamer Scot, of the Union
Line, and after a short visit to England took up his
residence for some months at Frankfort-on-Main.
The scene of his labours thus frequently changed
from South Africa to Europe.

In 1895 a process patented by Johannes Pfleger was
for a short time in use on a working scale in the Trans-
vaal. Forbes Julian developed this process and worked
it for three months on a full experimental scale on
behalf of the Frankfort Gold und Silber Scheide-
anstalt, obtaining remarkably good and uniform results.
His work in the Transvaal was carried on in sympathy

SCIENTIFIC WORK IN GERMANY, ETC. 31

and co-operation with his German friends Herr Hugo
Andreae and Herr Friedrich Stockhausen.

The Christmas of 1894 was spent at Frankfort, and
he greatly enjoyed the Yuletide season there and the
spirit of happy rejoicing with which the holy festival
is always celebrated throughout Germany. Part of
the following year was also spent at Frankfort, and
in addition to South African journeyings his love of
travel found vent in a long expedition which included
Austria, Hungary, Transylvania, Roumania, and the
borders of Russia.

He was shown great kindness in Germany and
Austria by many of the metallurgists, chemists, and
physicists of Frankfort, Berlin, and Vienna. His
short sojourn in the Austrian capital was a period of
most pleasant relaxation and enjoyment. His growing
fame as a mining expert brought him into personal
contact with many foreign scientists, and this was
in every way advantageous to him, as in some cases
the acquaintance ripened into friendship which grew
stronger with recurring intercourse. This helped to
broaden his views and strengthen his hold upon the
scientific activity of his time, keeping him in touch
with the foremost workers in more than one great
branch of science, men who were constantly in the
forefront of the endeavour of the age. At this
period he laboured with energy at metallurgical
problems, and, being endowed naturally with many
of the essential characteristics of a genuine scientific
worker, began to take an important place in the
mining world. Accuracy and scrupulous regard for
truth gave special value to his researches and to the
carefully considered conclusions which he formed
from them.

Received everywhere with friendliness and hospi-
tahty, he was enabled not only to study metallurgical

32 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

problems, but also political and social questions, and
he spent many pleasant hours in the inner domestic
circle of German families with whom he became
intimate. Such friendly intercourse with foreign
ways of life, in addition to the insight already gained
into habits of thought in South Africa, and the
views current in the great cities of the West, widened
his sympathy for men and things abroad, and kept
him from the insularity of outlook of which British
people are sometimes accused.

To the great kindness and consideration shown by
scientific colleagues and personal friends a piquant
contrast was afforded by the overbearing manners of
some officers in the army, which amounted to positive
rudeness amongst a few of the younger military men.
Displays of this state of feeling were witnessed by
him not infrequently. On one occasion when having
refreshments at a restaurant he happened to be sitting
alone. Three young officers entered shortly after-
wards and sat down at a table near him, at which a
powerful, athletic-looking young man was already
seated, the latter being dressed like an Englishman,
but having the free-and-easy bearing which suggests
a Colonial origin. The officers eyed him intently,
and when he gave an order to the waiter in very poor
German with a strong English accent all three burst
into loud laughter. The young man's attention was
concentrated on the waiter, from whom he was making
inquiries about the locality. Seeing his head turned
away from them, one of the trio knocked off the
table a pair of gloves belonging to the stranger and
lying by his plate. The latter turned round the
moment afterwards, saw what had happened, and
with rising colour, but without making any comment,
stooped and picked up the gloves. The next time
he gave an order the same thing was repeated. Forbes

SCIENTIFIC WORK IN GERMANY, ETC. 33

Julian immediately crossed to the table, seated himself
beside the young Colonial, and asked in English if he
could assist him, not choosing to see a fellow British
subject insulted. The stranger thanked him, and
with great self-control, after again picking up the
gloves, said quietly to the offender, " If that happens
again I shall put you all three outside the door."
Possibly the officers were slightly ashamed, perhaps
they were overawed by the size and sinews of the
young giant, or probably the appearance of his com-
patriot at the table turned the scale. The offending
officer immediately apologized, saying he would not
have played this practical joke if he had known it
was an Englishman he was annoying, and the trio
soon afterwards left the restaurant.

" You kept your temper admirably," said Forbes
Julian. " Oh," replied the other, laughing good-
humour edly, " I never like to be unpleasant, but I
wished them to know they must not go too far."
After a couple of hours spent chatting together, the
stranger mentioned that he had only a short time for
a tour in Europe and was leaving Germany in a day
or two, and they exchanged cards before parting.
Forbes Julian was amused to read on the one presented

to him, " Mr. , of , Australia, Champion

Boxer," and almost regretted that his new acquaint-
ance had not taken the opportunity of showing his
skiU.

On another occasion he had gone one evening with
friends to a public ball, and not being specially fond
of dancing, was standing chatting with some acquaint-
ance when their attention was directed to a lady
who was dancing very gracefully with her son. The
husband, a wealthy American business man, joined
them, and soon commenced a conversation in English.
An officer, who was apparently Master of Ceremonies

34 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

or a steward, now appeared, and, taking an unoccupied
chair close by, began talking to them both in a patro-
nizing manner, to their great amusement. All went
well until the American lady and her son came to
join them. At these dances there was a regulation
that young people under sixteen years of age were
not admitted. The following conversation then took
place :

" That boy is too young to be here ; he must go
out at once," said the officer to the mother.

" Oh no ! he is not too young," she answered ; " he
is just sixteen."

" That's a lie," replied the officer in a loud tone
which could be heard all over the room.

Those who are acquainted with the high estimation
in which Americans hold women will not be surprised
that for this speech the officer found himself knocked
off his chair, out of hand, by the enraged husband.

This caused an immense sensation. The idea of a
German officer wearing the uniform of the Kaiser
being struck by a mere civilian from the United States
was a thing calculated to cause consternation in the
Teutonic mind. The three Americans were soon the
centre of an excited group, and the husband was
charged with assault. The utmost that Forbes Julian
could do for him was to assist in his being released
later, on excessively heavy bail, even this concession
being obtained only with difficulty. The husband
was then enabled to join his wife and son at their
hotel, but until the case came on they could not
drive beyond the confines of the city. Eventually
the millionaire had to pay an exceedingly heavy fine
for his exploit, notwithstanding the fact that his wife
had simply spoken the truth about the age of their
son.

In the travels undertaken in Hungary, Roumania,

SCIENTIFIC WORK IN GERMANY, ETC. 35

and Transylvania — the romantic "land beyond the
forest " — Forbes Julian was fortunate in securing the
companionship of a secretary who was a good linguist,
and so able to act as interpreter in the country
districts.

In the picturesque capital of Hungary they were
received by some of the scientists of Budapest with
true Magyar hospitality. In the course of their
prolonged tour through the less known parts of Tran-
sylvania and Roumania they had often to stop at lonely
wayside posting-houses, where little refreshment could
be obtained except black bread and koumiss, a prepara-
tion of mares' milk. Whilst in the wilds they dis-
pensed quite cheerfully with many of the comforts
of civilized life, learning to be contented with food
that might have been thought hardly passable else-
where.

They were fortunate when no delays occurred at
the posting-houses. On one occasion in Transylvania
they arrived in the evening at a country village where
a festival was being celebrated, and the innkeeper, his
wife, and all the residents of the village appeared to
be intoxicated with vodka, so that the travellers were
perforce obliged to remain for the night and sleep
at the inn. Even the next day it v/as difficult to get
a meal and to obtain fresh horses, but after much loss
of time and patience both were forthcoming. How-
ever, when Forbes Julian and his secretary arrived
at any of the mining stations all difficulties vanished.
They met with generous hospitality and kindness,
and were assisted on their journey in every possible
manner.

In all the larger towns visited there were tolerably
good hotels, whilst the rough fare and humble lodging
which were all that could be obtained in the poorer
districts were no hindrance to one used to the hard-

36 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

ships and adventurous life of the South African veld,
with all its varied vicissitudes of travel.

The labours that he had undergone during his
v^anderings over three continents were beginning,
however, to tell on a constitution that had never been
robust. Forbes Julian was rather below the medium
height in person, sHght and active in figure, with an
alertness and energy in his movements clearly indi-
cating the eager spirit within. While believing that
hard work was injurious to no one, he had persevered
in his undertakings long after his powers had become
overtaxed. No constitution could stand such a strain
for long.

Towards the close of the year 1895 he felt the
necessity of taking a complete rest, and was looking
forward to spending Christmas with his family in
England, as his relatives were becoming alarmed at
his continued ill-health.

The fatigue of his bodily exertions and mental
labours during the past ten years had been severe,
the rest taken being quite inadequate for the restora-
tion of his health. He was habitually an early riser,
but as he was frequently engaged with professional
matters until a late hour, his working day was thus
made far too long.

In the spring of 1896 he was still hoping to go out
again to South Africa to continue the metallurgical
work in which he took such interest, and for which
he had so great an aptitude. But his health had now
become seriously undermined, and he was prostrated
by such severe attacks of pain and dyspepsia that he
was reluctantly persuaded by friends to go to London
with the object of consulting a well-known medical
specialist.

The doctor's verdict prescribed absolute rest from
professional work for a few years and residence in

I

SCIENTIFIC WORK IN GERMANY, ETC. 37

some quiet place by the sea. The thought of even a
temporary abandonment of his researches in South
Africa came as a bitter disappointment to one who
looked for happiness in work, especially after the
additional experience gained in the United States and
Central Europe, and the insight thus obtained into
many matters connected with the science of metal-
lurgy. His adaptability and self-reliance had proved
important assets in new countries like South Africa
and America (where mining work combines to a large
extent with pioneering), and in all spheres wherever
varying conditions confront the mining expert and
circumstances force him to become a man who can
face almost any eventuality.

During his three years' connection with the Gold
und Silber Scheide-anstalt of Frankfort as their chief
technical adviser on mining and metallurgical matters,
he had conducted extensive researches which resulted
in the introduction of far-reaching improvements in
the recovery of precious metals from their ores. The
fact that (like other mining experts) his work had
led him to various parts of the world was very advan-
tageous to him. But when such men are stricken
down by illness and wasted by suffering they cannot
secure proper treatment and nursing whilst engaged
in developing the mines of new countries like South
Africa, and this deprives the Empire of the services
of many workers well fitted for such tasks.

The results of his labours were given to the mining
world somewhat later in the volume " Cyaniding
Gold and Silver Ores."

He was well qualified for the efficient performance
of his various undertakings in South Africa, for, in
addition to clear reasoning powers and scientific
attainments, he had the gift of dealing successfully

ith large bodies of men. His self-chosen time of

38 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

assistance in his father's works had enlarged his fellow-
feehng with labourers, for he had endeavoured to
understand their lives and sympathize with their
pursuits. He was able, therefore, to apply the expe-
rience gained in the North of England to the industrial
communities of Kimberley and Johannesburg. And
in his explorations in native districts he won the
confidence of the black population, who found in
him a man of rare sympathy and ready kindness.

He enjoyed the friendship of Dr. (now Sir L. S.)
Jameson and his circle, but this did not prevent his
acquaintance with many leading Boer families. Mrs.
Rintoul (the sister of Commandant Mostert, of General
Cronje's staff) wrote with the warmest gratitude of
the attention shown to her husband in illness by
Forbes Julian, who was never too busy to be kind.
A strong vein of serious feeling ran steadily through
all his actions, his conduct being guided by the well-
known words, " I shall pass through this world but
once. If, therefore, there be any kindness I can
show, or any good thing I can do, let me do it now.
Let me not defer it nor neglect it, for I shall not
pass this way again."

Although towards the close of the nineteenth
century, especially at the time of the "Jameson Raid,"
the social environment of South Africa had few neutral
spheres or half-way houses as far as racial antagonisms
were concerned, and it is probably true that this
condition existed until very recently ; yet (notwith-
standing this) his genial personality appealed alike to
Briton and Boer, causing him to be regarded as a
good comrade, whilst he was recognized as being a
patriot and Imperialist in the best and sanest sense
of the terms.

He was spoken of by one of those fully qualified to
judge as " one of the men best fitted by training and

SCIENTIFIC WORK IN GERMANY, ETC. 39

experience to do good work in our Colonies, and of
the type that has made Great Britain what she is
amongst the nations of the world."

During this busy decade abroad he had risen from
obscurity to eminence in his profession and from
narrow means to affluence. The years had been full
of courage, hope, and strenuous endeavour, every
step of advance made having been conquered by
patient labour.

In Germany he had been favoured by the friendship
of some of those great scientists who were in the first
rank of the thought and progress of the age ; whilst
in South Africa he had become acquainted with several
men destined to play an important part in the drama
of history amongst Briton and Boer alike, such as
Cecil Rhodes, Dr. Jameson, President Kruger, and
Dr. Leyds.

CHAPTER V
ENGLAND AND ITALY

HAVING thus been advised by his London
physician to settle in some quiet seaside
resort, Forbes Julian had now to resign for
a time active professional v^ork and fix upon a
suitable place as his residence. After w^andering
about for some time with no definite plan, house-
hunting in North Wales, the Isle of Wight, and other
favourite localities, he was finally attracted by the
West of England. Here he decided on " The Ness."
a small country-house at Shaldon, opposite Teign-
mouth, which had been the marine residence of the
late Lord CHfford.

The house was situated under the sheltered pro-
montory of the Ness (from which it was named), on
the wooded estuary of the Teign. The views obtained
from it are very striking, terminating inland in the
Dartmoor range of hills capped by the rocks at Haytor,
and seaward in the beautiful coast scenery of South
Devon and Dorset.

Forbes Julian came to Devonshire in the spring,
whenthe county looks its best, the wide and sunny
bay being at its loveliest and all sparkling with life
and colour.

Directly he had decided on his future residence he
became anxious to provide a home for his father and
sisters in Devonshire, and soon afterwards two of his
sisters, Lilly and Aimee Ethel, together with their
father, came to live with him at Shaldon. Charles

40

I

ENGLAND AND ITALY 41

Julian, his only brother, was now in South Africa
whilst his eldest sister, Emily, who had been at Newn
ham College, Cambridge, was head mistress of the
Girls' High School at Tunbridge Wells. His remain-
ing sister, Lucie, who had been studying at Oxford,
was engaged to a Balliol man, Mr. William Davies^
private secretary, first to the Marquis of London-
derry, and secondly to Mr. (now Viscount) Bryce,
Chief Secretary for Ireland and ultimately British
Ambassador at Washington.

Health was recovered very slowly, but the previous
life of activity, for so many years without opportunities
for recruiting strength, rendered it not surprising
that Forbes Julian required a prolonged period for
rest and recuperation.

It was during residence at Shaldon that he first
came in touch with all the vigorous life and manly
qualities of a seafaring people. His gardener Tipper,
a retired naval pensioner and a deacon at one of the
neighbouring chapels, became deeply attached to his
master, as many of his actions as well as his letters
clearly proved.

Bryant, another man employed at " The Ness,"
was also an old sailor and a sterling and valuable
character.

Rallying with the change, Forbes Julian passed
almost all the time out of doors, driving and boating.
He was thus enabled, with returning strength, to
enjoy the beautiful Devonshire lanes and to spend
many hours on the water. He soon became proficient
in the management of his boat under the assiduous
tuition of Tipper, and enjoyed making trips with his
neighbour Mr. Gray, who was a keen yachtsman.

The private beach at " The Ness " and the beauti-
fully wooded grounds rendered it an ideal place in
which to recover health and strength.

42 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

Although living very quietly, he made many friends
amongst families in South Devon. Being a good shot
and interested in motoring and boating, and fond,
moreover, of horses and dogs, he v^as a congenial
companion, v^ith little of the typical scientist whose
interests are confined to his ov^n pet subject.

He frequently visited Torquay, w^here he had
several friends, including Admiral Lindesey Brine,
Colonel and Mrs. Brine, Mrs. Cole of Fell Court
and her sons. These quiet years v^ere not in any
sense empty, but v^ere amply filled w^ith various
occupations.

It v^as about this time that his attention was turned
to motor traffic. He became one of the founders of
the Royal Automobile Club, taking a keen and watch-
ful interest in its early fortunes, and in motoring tours
undertaken with the companionship of other members
he was enabled to see a great deal of the beautiful
scenery of rural England.

He also became a member of the Royal Horticul-
tural Society, finding attraction in botanical studies,
which he was able in this country district to prosecute
successfully.

During his residence at Shaldon his sisters Lilly
and Lucie both married. As their husbands were
busy professional men, they could not in future be
very much with him.

In 1898 he had the pleasure of a visit from some
South African friends, Mr. and Mrs. Rintoul. The
former, who had been seriously ill and under treat-
ment at a nursing-home in London, speedily regained
his health in Devonshire. He was of Scottish origin,
and his talented wife had been a Miss Mostert, and
belonged to one of the old-established Boer families
of the Transvaal. Alluding several years later to this
visit, Mr. Rintoul writes : " When we went to stay

ENGLAND AND ITALY 43

with him at ' The Ness,' he had erected his laboratory,
and was always engaged in scientific researches."

Some time after they left England there were
rumours of threatened hostilities, and it will be readily
understood that the outbreak of the war in South
Africa in 1899 caused great concern to Forbes Julian,
who had still several British and Colonial friends there
in addition to Dr. Jameson, and, moreover, knew many
of the combatants on both sides.

The following extract from a letter received from
Mr. Rintoul gives an account of life in Johannesburg
at the commencement of hostilities ; his own brother
was with the British army and his wife's two brothers
were with the Boer forces, so that to him the conflict
partook almost of the nature of a civil war. One of
the chief tragedies of the Boer War was that so fre-
quently families were broken up and love destroyed.
Mr. Rintoul never became a combatant himself, but
rendered assistance in connection with hospital work
to the wounded on both sides.

Johannesburg,
^th Oct., 1899.

... It would take pages to describe to you the excitement
which has prevailed in Johannesburg for the past three weeks,
but I suppose you get all the news in the papers, and I will
content myself by just giving a few minor details.

The Burghers were all called out a fortnight ago, and
willingly responded to the call, and even at the present only
mounted men can be seen in the town. The mines are all
closed down, with the exception of the foreign groups, and
these are being worked by miners and workmen of the nation-
ality with which the mine is connected. There has been an
enormous exodus both of whites and blacks, and the discomfort
attending the former during the last fortnight in travelling
must have been terrible. The men had to be contented with
coal-trucks without a covering, and as this is our rainy season,
their discomfort can be more easily imagined than described, . . .

44 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

All the stores and private houses are barricaded with iron
and wood, but this does not prevent private houses being
broken into and the contents stolen by the large number of
roughs who (as you know) are in Johannesburg. Furniture
has been taken by these folk from unoccupied houses in the
broad daylight, and as most of the police have been called out
nothing can be done. All the bars, hotels, and even the clubs
are closed by order of the Government, and a drink is not
obtainable at any price. The British companies have removed
their head offices to Cape Town and Durban. In comparison
with the desolated appearance of the town caused by barri-
cading, there is a large amount of bunting displayed from the
various foreign houses. . . .

I am applying for a permit to remain and to do the ordinary
police duty, which must be done by all those who receive
such permission. I don't half like it, but we really cannot
go away, and come v/hat might, we must stay. . . .

Another letter, although received much later from
a friend whose son-in-law had been one of the heroes
of the Mafeking district, may fitly be inserted here.

My wife and I would be greatly pleased to see you again.

Last Thursday our second daughter married Captain ,

who was a terror to the Boers north of Mafeking, for in fifteen
months ending last June, when he was invalided home, he
trained his company of South Wales Borderers as Scouts and
made them good shots on horseback. During these fifteen
months he never had more than two hours' sleep at a time,
and that mostly in daylight, as he was scouting all night. He
took so many prisoners that at last he scattered notices over

the veld : " 's Scouts take no prisoners." After that

the Boers gave him a very wide berth. He did not lose a
single man of his command, and he had some three hundred
men under him. He knew the veld well, having fought in
the Lancers in the Matabele War, and then gone after big
game.

In January 1900 a break occurred in the home life
through the death of his father, Mr. Henry Julian,

ENGLAND AND ITALY 45

who at the time of his last brief illness was staying
with one of his married daughters, Lilly Unsworth.
Although he died in his seventy-third year, and had
thus reached a good old age, his death came upon
the hearts that loved him with all the shock of unex-
pectedness and a keen sense of bereavement.

In order to obtain further benefit to his health by
change of air and scene, and to avoid the English
winter, Forbes Julian twice paid visits to Italy towards
the close of the nineteenth century, delighting in
the wonderful scenery, the beautiful sky, and magni-
ficent climate.

At Florence, where he stayed for some time, he
had the advantage of frequently meeting his sister's
friend. Miss Helen Zimmern, the authoress of " The
Last Days of Papal Rome," who was a noted lecturer
on Dante and well known to the British Colony at
Florence. Through her kind introductions he met
many compatriots and Italian families, as well as
visitors of other nationalities, who were staying at
the famous and cosmopolitan City of Flowers. Not
only did the beauties of nature attract him strongly,
but also the artistic works of man, such as the statues
and pictures. He was himself a fine draughtsman, and
soon became absorbed in these studies, visiting the
famous galleries and churches with much enjoyment,
as well as exploring many lovely scenes in the valley
of the Arno. His artistic tastes were greatly stimu-
lated by these Italian visits, and he became thoroughly
conversant with the magnificent cathedral designed
by Arnolfo, whose great work was " crowned by
Brunellcschi's wonderful dome and shadowed by
Giotto's matchless bell-tower,"

CHAPTER VI

MARRIAGE

t I AHE nineteenth century closed in gloom, for
Great Britain had still her hand on the sword

1

and was engaged in the protracted struggle
with the Boers in South Africa. Thoughts of war,
of mourning, and of bitter bereavement filled the
land, and before the first month of the New Year
had passed away the country was further saddened
by the death of Queen Victoria, who for so many
long years had held the affectionate admiration and
esteem of all classes of her subjects throughout the
Empire.

The twentieth century was soon, however, to unfold
the hope of an early settlement and to usher in the
reign of the brilliant and beloved King Edward
the Peacemaker. Amidst these great events minor
changes were in progress, the results of which were
profoundly to influence the life of Forbes Julian.
Amongst these was one which occurred in the West
of England. The Right Rev. Herbert Ryle, of Cam-
bridge, had succeeded Bishop Edward Bickersteth in
the Diocese of Exeter, and his enthronement took
place early in 190 1. It was at Torquay, just after
her return from Exeter, where she had witnessed
the enthronement of the new bishop, that Forbes
Julian first met his future wife, Hester Pengelly.

The intimacy soon ripened into friendship, and the
friendship into affection. She shared his love of
science and travel, they had manv other tastes in

46

PLATE III

To face page 46

Ill'.blJ'Jv JULIAN

i)<3tte, Dublin

MARRIAGE 47

common, and, like him, she had suffered the loss of
both her parents. She had been educated at private
schools at Torquay and Clevedon and at the Ladies'
College, Cheltenham, completing her education at
home by studying mathematics and geology with her
father. Afterwards she became a member of the
Geologists' Association, the Royal Anthropological
Institute, the Dante Society, and other institutions,
in all of which Forbes Julian was interested — especially
the last named, as during his visits to Florence he
had become a student of the works of Dante.

His health was now re-established, and he had
previously intended returning to South Africa in
1 90 1, but the prospect of marriage led him to abandon
the idea of leaving England. During the spring of
1902 the engagement was announced, and gave great
pleasure to their relatives and intimate associates.

The earliest friend to send him congratulations
was Sir Vincent Barrington, while Mr. and Mrs.
Rintoul wrote from Johannesburg sending their best
wishes and expressing the hope that they would be
able to attend the ceremony.

Forbes Julian's future wife was the youngest
daughter, by his second marriage, of the late William
Pengelly, a distinguished scientist and a Fellow of the
Royal Society, who by his explorations of Kent's
Cavern was specially identified with the geology of the
Torquay district. He was well known also as the
founder of the Devonshire Association and the Torquay
Natural History Society, and it was in virtue of this
connection with Torquay and of Hester Pengelly's
love for her old home that Forbes Julian resolved to
settle permanently in that town.

By his six years' sojourn at Shaldon and by his ten
years' residence at Torquay he became a naturalized
Devonian, and was soon warmly attached to his

48 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

adopted county. Indeed he always spoke of those
years as the happiest period of his life. The impres-
sions of nature which he had gathered as a child from
his home in the picturesque district of the South of
Ireland were deep and lasting, but his love for the
rich and beautiful coast scenery of Devonshire and
for the home of his married life was deeper still and
more abiding.

In allusion to this affection for the West Country,
his old friend Mr. Sulman, the well-known metal-
lurgical chemist, who often met him in London,
writes : " We constantly lunched at the Mining and
Metallurgical Club together, where we had many a
long talk on matters which mutually interested us.
The hour seldom passed without a reference to his
home at Torquay and the charm that this lovely
corner of England exercised over him."

The summer of 1902 brought the cessation of the
South African War, and the blessings of peace slowly
emerged from the dark clouds that had hung over the
British Empire, and this seemed a happy omen for
their engagement.

Not long before their marriage he and his future
wife were present in August on the occasion of the
procession of the King and Queen to and from West-
minster Abbey for the Coronation. This singularly
impressive spectacle they witnessed from the windows
of Whitehall with his sister Lucie and her husband,
Mr. William Davies, who was at that time private
secretary to Lord Londonderry. Added to the
stately pageantry of the ceremonial was the pathos of
the scene ; the King, just given back to the prayers
of his subjects after his severe illness, was a dignified
yet touching figure, and the thoughts of all were
centred on him and on his consort. Great sympathy
was also felt for the aged and infirm Archbishop, and

MARRIAGE 49

by none more keenly than by Hester Pengelly herself.
Dr. Temple, when Bishop of Exeter, had been a valued
friend of her father.

During September Forbes Julian was occupied in
removing from Shaldon to Torquay, " The Ness ''
having been partially burnt down, an occurrence
which caused him great inconvenience and pecuniary
loss. It happened during his absence on a visit to
London that one evening, just before midnight, his
beautiful home had been found to be ablaze, the fire
having started in the kitchens. Tipper the gardener,
with all the ready resource of an old sailor, rendered
valuable assistance, with the help of the coastguards-
men, in saving many papers and writings from the
burning wreck, and telegraphed to his master, who
at once returned. It was a severe shock to see only
the blackened ruins of his beloved home ; it was also
a sad uprooting, enforcing the obligation to settle
elsewhere. It was, however, a matter of consolation
to him to know that no servant nor other inmate of
the household had suffered harm.

The conflagration occurred about the time of his
engagement, and although " The Ness " was soon
rebuilt, he decided on making his chosen home at
Torquay, and quickly adapted himself to the new
and narrower surroundings, for " Redholme," his
villa residence there, had only a small garden instead
of the beautiful grounds which had afforded him such
pleasure in the country district of Shaldon.

Amongst those who took much interest in the
approaching marriage in October and wrote regretting
their inability to be present at the ceremony on
account of the long journey to Torquay, were Lord
Lister, Lord Avebury, Sir Robert and Lady Ball of
Cambridge, Sir John and Lady Burdon-Sanderson of
Oxford, Sir Archibald Gcikie, Professor Harley,

50 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

Professor Sayce, the Rev. J. O. Bevan, Mrs. Martin
Donohoe, and other old friends of the bride. Likewise
Bishop Welldon was to have been present to take
part in the service, but was prevented hy absence in
South Africa.

A few short extracts from some letters she received
may be inserted here, the first being from Bishop
Welldon, written from Little Cloisters, Westminster,
on August 29th, 1902 :

... I hardly see, now, how I am to be present at your
wedding if I go to the Cape, though it is a pain to me to
say so.

I shall be in residence here until the end of September, I
have made engagements for the three first days in October,
and I hope to sail on the 4th. . . .

But I do not yet look upon my going as certain.

. . . Will you accept from me this present (of volumes of
the works of Shakespeare) as a sign of my interest in your
approaching marriage, and of my regret that I may not be able
to be present at it if I sail for South Africa before the date of
your wedding ? I pray that many years of happiness and
usefulness may be granted to your husband and yourself. . . .

Lord Lister wrote on October 2nd as follows :

... It is very kind of you to wish that I could attend your
wedding. ... It is impossible, I greatly fear, to get away to
Torquay this month, and therefore for me to be able to be with
you on the occasion, but you have my heartiest good wishes
for your happiness, my dear Hester. ... It is extremely kind
of you and Mr. Julian to invite me to Torquay. . . .

Lord Avebury wrote from Farnborough :

. . . Thank you for the kind and interesting invitation.
Vi e should be very glad indeed to avail ourselves of it if we
are in your neighbourhood. ... I am extremely glad to
hear that they have put up the Hall in memory of your illus-
trious father, my dear old friend. . . . We send all good
wishes. . . .

MARRIAGE 51

Lady Burdon-Sanderson sent the following letter
from Oxford on October 8th :

. . . Accept my warm congratulations on your engagement .
... I heartily congratulate Mr. Julian, because I know what
good qualities reside in his fiancee, and I have no doubt when
I have the pleasure of making his acquaintance I shall quite
justify your choice. ... I am sorry that we cannot hope to
be present at the wedding. I expect to be in the north at
the end of this month, and Sir John has engagements in
Oxford. . . .

Writing from Edinburgh, Professor Sayce says

... I am very sorry that I cannot have the pleasure of a
talk instead of being dependent on pen and paper. But I
have left London and, as you will see from my address, am
now settled in the north. Indeed I have been further north
than Edinburgh, for I have been lecturing at Aberdeen. . . .

Let me congratulate you on the news your letter contained.
I hope that you will have nothing but happiness and prosperity
in the new life that awaits you. . . .

I wish we had a little of your warmth here — ^we are still in
the glacial age. I send all good wishes. . . .

Mrs. Martin Donohoe (wife of the war correspon-
dent) wrote from London on October 29th :

I am thinking much of you and shall be thinking of you
to-morrow, the day which is to mean so much to you.

When this reaches you the ceremony which makes you and
Mr. Julian one will be over. I pray that the union may be
fraught with the greatest happiness to you both and that
you, dear Hester, may be able to look back on your wedding-
day, as I and all other happy wives do, counting it the most
blessed day of your life.

That all good may attend you in the new time dawning
for you is the prayer of

Your affectionate friend.

The marriage of Henry Forbes Julian and Hester
Pengelly was solemnized on October 30th, 1902, at

52 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

St. Mary Magdalene (Upton) Church, Torquay, the
ceremony being performed by the Rev. Canon
Edmonds, Chancellor of Exeter Cathedral.

The bride's elder sister, Lydia, held a reception
after the marriage service, which was attended by a
large circle of relatives and friends, at the " Pengelly
Hall," the building erected as a memorial to their
father, which is referred to in Lord Avebury's letter.

The wedding tour was spent in Cornwall, chiefly
at Launceston and Tintagel, the travellers being greatly
impressed by the scenes so eloquent of history and
redolent of antiquarian interest and natural beauty in
this picturesque district of the west. Before Christ-
mas they were settled at their home in Torquay,
where they had a most hospitable reception from
families of the neighbourhood. Although there was
much that was congenial in this friendly intercourse,
still the various engagements of social life formed
hardly employment enough for an active temperament,
and were merely pleasant interludes of relaxation
amidst more serious occupations. Forbes Julian soon
joined the Devonshire Association and the Torquay
Natural History Society, the two local institutions
founded by his late father-in-law, and served the latter
as a member of committee, communicating papers
after his election and lending a helping hand in various
ways to assist in bringing the Society more promi-
nently forward. He also joined the British Associa-
tion for the Advancement of Science, and some of
the societies in London to which Mr. Pengelly had
belonged. This brought him into friendly intercourse
with leaders in various branches of learning with
whom he had. previously been unacquainted owing to
his long residence abroad and the quiet country life
he had led since his return to England.

Of the man whose scientific activities were thus

MARRIAGE S3

destined to have so far-reaching an attraction for his
future son-in-law and to affect his way of life in many-
ways something should now be said, in order to throw
more light on the influences with which Forbes Julian
came in contact, by his marriage and residence at
Torquay, and the family and friends of his wife and
the surroundings in which she had been brought up.

William Pengelly was born at East Looe, in Cornwall,
and by descent came from a long line of seafaring
men of courage and adventure. His father, Richard
Pengelly, was a Cornishman and the captain of a vessel,
whilst his mother was a Prout of the same family as
Samuel Prout, the celebrated artist.

When only twelve years of age the future geologist
left school for ever and began his life at sea on the
vessel commanded by his father. The death of his
only brother made his mother anxious about her
sailor boy, and he gave up his seafaring life and returned
home at the age of sixteen.

A few years later he removed to Torquay, where he
opened a small day-school and commenced his career
as a schoolmaster and lecturer, rendering high service
to his generation and giving indirectly a powerful
impetus to the whole system of scientific thought in
the south-west of England. Shortly after settling in
Torquay his attention was turned to scientific studies.
His interest was soon thoroughly awakened, and he
prosecuted his geological researches with enthusiasm,
working assiduously at the rocks and fossils of Cornwall
and Devon, in sympathy and correspondence with
Hugh Miller, Charles Peach, and many distinguished
contemporaries, including Sir Roderick Murchison,
Dr. Bowerbank, Professor Huxley, Sir Charles Lyell,
Sir Richard Owen, Professor Sedgwick, Professor
Milne-Edwards of Paris, and other leading scientists.

Assisted by Mr. Vivian, Dr. Battersby, and a few

54 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

other friends, William Pengelly founded the Torquay
Natural History Society in 1844, it being largely due
to the untiring efforts and never-abating energy of
the young geologist that its success was ultimately
secured. He was unwearied in his work of contribu-
ting to its permanent usefulness by lectures, by papers,
and by gifts of fossils, and for nearly forty years of
his active life he was the hard-working and indefati-
gable honorary secretary of the institution. The
museum collection is of unique value and of sur-
passing interest in illustrating the antiquity of man,
as evidenced by the geological deposits rescued from
Kent's Cavern by his disinterested labours.

His private pupils had become so numerous about
this time that he finally gave up his school and became
a tutor of the natural sciences, his services being called
for by very illustrious families, the Russian Imperial
family amongst them, and by members of more than
one other Royal house.

Although he was now contributing geological papers
to different scientific societies, it was more as a lecturer
than as a writer that his activity was manifested. As
his reputation grew he frequently lectured at the
Royal Institution in London, at the Universities of
Oxford and Cambridge, at Manchester, Liverpool,
Birmingham, Glasgow, Dundee, and most of the
other large cities in England and Scotland. At
Torquay his gratuitously given winter courses on
geology attracted crowded audiences. As a natural
science lecturer he placed his ever-growing knowledge
unreservedly at the disposal of the many, and was
ineffectually remonstrated with when friends urged
that he could not afford to be always working without
fee. His letters from famous workers in the same
field show how opinions were matured on questions
of geological difficulty or doubt, whilst his published

MARRIAGE 55

correspondence with his friend Sir Charles Lyell
proves what influence WilHam Pengelly's experience
and philosophical acumen had on the establishment
and progress of geological science, and that he was an
adviser in whom the author of '' The Principles of
Geology " and " The Antiquity of Man " placed a
large and generous confidence.

About the same period he formed two of the other
great friendships of his life, with Canon Kingsley and
the late Lord Lister — friendships to be severed only
by death. He and Charles Kingsley had many
scientific and philanthropic interests in common,
which rendered the tie between them unusually
strong. Joseph Lister's scientific researches also and
the earnestness of his efforts to relieve human suffering
greatly endeared him to William Pengelly, creating
a warm friendship between them, an attachment which
grew stronger by recurring intercourse. '' I cherish
his memory v^th affectionate admiration," wrote the
great surgeon in a letter to the present writer after
William Pengelly's death ; " what a comfort that
his love of science never undermined his faith as a
Christian."

His first connection with the Society of Friends
came through friendships with the Burlinghams, the
Listers, and the Fox family of Falmouth, for they all
belonged to the Society, and in middle life he made
the acquaintance of Mr. Spriggs, to whose youngest
daughter, Lydia, he became attached.

He had been a widower for some years, and in spite
of the difference in age his second marriage added
greatly to his happiness, for in all his undertakings he
was now sustained and encouraged by the loving and

Lever-ready help of his young wife.
Her family had been members of the Society of
Friends for several generations, her great-aunt being

S6 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

remembered as the young Quakeress Hester Savory,
on whose death Charles Lamb composed his well-
known poem '' To Hester." William and Lydia
Pengelly's youngest daughter, the present writer, is
her namesake. The geologist was a well-known
member of the British Association for nearly forty
years and was present at most of the gatherings during
that period, being soon placed on the General Com-
mittee of the Association and also on the Council.
In 1877 he held the Presidency of the Geological
Section at the Plymouth meeting, and he presided
over the Department of Anthropology at the meeting
at Southport in 1883.

The Baroness (then Miss) Burdett-Coutts frequently
visited Torquay, and her friendship vdth Mr. and Mrs.
Pengelly commenced just after their marriage. They
were often her guests both in Devonshire and in
London, being invited to meet the Prince of Wales
(afterwards His Majesty King Edward VII), the Duke
and Duchess of Teck, and many other Royal and dis-
tinguished persons, at her house.

Soon after his second marriage the geologist entered
on that special sphere of research in which he was
to rise to eminence, for his detailed excavations in
the Devonshire Caves commenced in 1858. It was
in that year that the Windmill Hill Cavern was dis-
covered at Brixham. Its thorough investigation was
undertaken by the Royal and Geological Societies
through a committee of which he was a member, the
actual superintendence falling entirely on him. These
researches and those undertaken later at Kent's Cavern
were gratuitous ; he was rewarded indeed, not vdth
money, but by discoveries of the utmost significance.

Writing of the work at Brixham, Professor Bonney,
the well-known geologist, states : " The results proved
that in Devonshire a race of men in a low state of

MARRIAGE 57

civilization had been contemporaneous with a fauna
which has now disappeared from Britain and in some
cases is actually extinct."

The eminent authority on cavern excavations,
Professor Boyd Dawkins, also writes : *' The explora-
tion established beyond all doubt the existence of
Palaeolithic man in the Pleistocene Age, and caused
the whole of the scientific world to awake to the fact
of the vast antiquity of the human race."

The question of the antiquity of man was warmly
debated at the meeting of the British Association at
Aberdeen in 1859. Here we are carried back to the
atmosphere breathed by Lyell, Murchison, Owen,
PhilHps, Huxley, and Ramsay, and with their help
William Pengelly fought for the infant doctrine
against all the forces of bigotry and intolerance. It
is mainly due to their efforts that more enlightened
opinions are now held. It was a steady light replacing
the gloom. He was one of the earliest converts to
the theory of creation by evolution as well as a cham-
pion of the doctrine of the antiquity of man, and he
laboured as a pioneer of that doctrine through all
the burden and heat of the battle.

The Presidential chair of the Association at Aberdeen
was filled by the Prince Consort, and during the
progress of the meeting the geologist was one of those
members who received a gracious invitation to Bal-
moral from Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. Many
years later Mr. Pengelly had the honour of receiving
a visit at his residence, " Lamorna," Torquay, from
Her Majesty's grandsons. Prince Edward and Prince
George of Wales.

The ex-Emperor Napoleon HI, with the Prince
Imperial, Prince Murat, and also the Queen of Holland,
visited him at " Lamorna " on other occasions, and
manifested much interest in the fossils and scientific

58 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

specimens. The Grand Duchess Marie, sister of
Alexander II of Russia and widow of the Duke of
Leuchtenberg, was another frequent visitor at Tor-
quay, and her sons studied several branches of science
with Mr. Pengelly, becoming much attached to him.
Prince Nicholas, the eldest of the princes, made great
progress in geology, and was afterwards appointed hy
his uncle, the Tsar, Inspector of Mines in his dominions.
The Prince and Princess of the Netherlands, with
their daughter, the Princess Mary, also came to Devon-
shire, and asked William Pengelly to read geology
with the young princess, the latter being so anxious
to have his instruction that she agreed to take her
lessons before eight o'clock in the morning.

A well-known geologist writes : " The unremitting
and gratuitous labour which Pengelly for many years
devoted to the exploration of caverns met with a
reward of a rather unusual kind. In maturer life
he was positively courted by all ranks of society, from
queens and emperors downwards. The simplicity of
his tastes, of his mode of living, and of his general
demeanour was never spoiled by the flattery, direct
and indirect, of which he was so frequently the
recipient."

His pupils included all ranks, from the prince to
the peasant, for he started classes for working men
and boys, whom he taught gratuitously at a night
school after his hard day's work. During the year
i860 he completed the formation of a valuable and
representative collection of Devonian fossils, which,
under the name of the " Pengelly Collection," was
presented to the Oxford University Museum in
connection with the Burdett-Coutts Geological
Scholarship.

The investigations of the Bovey Tracey deposits
were also undertaken, and concluded by him early

MARRIAGE 59

in the sixties. His scientific colleagues considered
that this systematic examination of these deposits
was of exceptional interest, and induced him to
communicate a paper to the Royal Society on the
work. It was entitled " The Lignites and Clays of
Bovey Tracey," and was supplemented by an account
of the Fossil Flora of Bovey Tracey from Dr. Oswald
Heer of Zurich, the eminent palaeo-botanist.

Not the least of Mr. Pengelly's services to his
adopted county was the foundation of the Devonshire
Association for the Advancement of Science, Litera-
ture, and Art, an enterprise in which he received great
assistance from Sir John Bowring, Mr. Brooking Rowe,
the Rev. W. Harpley, and other intimate associates.
The first meeting, held at Exeter in 1862, proved
remarkably successful under the able presidency of
Sir John Bowring. One of his successors in the
** chair," in 1871, was the founder's intimate friend.
Canon Kingsley. The Association took firm root,
and has now continued to flourish for half a century.
In 1872 another of his friends. Archbishop Temple,
then Bishop of Exeter, presided at the second meeting
held in his own cathedral city.

The last and best-known scientific work undertaken
by Mr. Pengelly, and the only one remembered by
the present writer (who was the youngest child of his
second family), was the exploration of Kent's Cavern,
Torquay, which was not completed until 1880, having
occupied between fifteen and sixteen years. The
exploration commenced on March 27th, 1865, and was
concluded on June 19th, 1880.

Professor Boyd Dawkins writes thus of William
Pengelly's labours :

Day by day, except when the work was stopped, he visited
the Cave, and recorded on maps and plans the exact spot
where each specimen was found, for no less than sixteen years.

6o HENRY FORBES JULIAN

The vast collection of palaeolithic implements and fossil
bones, each of which bears traces of his handiwork, is repre-
sented in most of the museums in this country, and the annual
reports, listened to with so much pleasure by crowds at the
meetings of the British Association, are the most complete
that have ever been published.

He willingly abandoned all thought of wealth or
advancement in life so as to prosecute these researches
successfully, and devoted about five hours daily to
the cavern work, a rare instance of devotion to science
on the part of a man who was not in independent
circumstances, and had to gain a livelihood by lecturing
and teaching, for it was only through an inheritance
that came to his wife that his later years were passed
in affluence.

Amongst those who took much interest in the
Cavern exploration and honoured William Pengelly
by visiting him at " Lamorna," Torquay, and inspect-
ing his geological collections, was (as already stated)
His Majesty the King, then Prince George of Wales.
On that occasion the present writer remembers that
Prince George was specially interested in viewing the
bones gnawed and split by hyaenas and the flint
implements found in the Cave, being reminded of
similar specimens inspected in the Museum at Copen-
hagen. The Prince was very anxious that Mr. Pengelly
should see the latter. The geologist had several friends
amongst Scandinavian professors, and he long cherished
the hope of visiting the Danish capital and examining
the anthropological collections there, but unfortunately
this wish was never gratified.

After William Pengelly's death, which occurred in
1894, Professor Bonney wrote :

Full of years, much beloved, and with his scientific work
widely recognized, he has gone to his rest. It will be long

PLATE IV

To face page 60

WILLIAM PENGELLY, F.R.S.

A. S. Cope, Pinxt.

MARRIAGE 6i

before this work is forgotten, for his name is inseparably
linked to the history of caves and the annals of primseval
man.

His scientific work did not interfere with his other
activities ; if he studied ancient times and primitive
man he did not lose touch with contemporary life and
thought. Music, politics, temperance, all interested
him and claimed his sympathies. For more than half
a century he laboured unflinchingly to advance the
bounds of human knowledge, and he was no less
staunch to his friends. His first thought was ever
the instruction he could afford to others, the last
consideration the personal benefit he might derive
for himself.

The Jubilee of the Devonshire Association, founded
by Mr. Pengelly, was celebrated in 191 2, the year
Forbes Julian started on the Titanic ; and at the
request of some of their friends his wife had written
this little sketch of the founder, which had interested
him and engaged his attention on his last day at home,
and it was thought, therefore, not out of place to
insert it with this memoir.

This estimate of William Pengelly's work and
influence on Devonian thought and science has
accordingly been given at some length because of
the special connection with Forbes Julian, who during
the last decade of his life, by his change of residence and
interest in his late father-in-law's studies, became
closely associated with many of his scientific under-
takings.

Facts have an additional interest when told in
relation to a personality, and an account of the metal-
lurgist's new connections helps to make plain some of
his subsequent interests and activities, but in the
midst of these miscellaneous occupations he did not
forget his old and favourite science. Although, in

62 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

prospect of his approaching marriage, he had in 1901
relinquished the thought of returning to South Africa,
yet an active worker was unHkely to remain long idle ;
he was again eager for employment, and was now
engaged in the preparation of a scientific text-book,
of which an account must be given in the succeeding
chapter.

CHAPTER VII

PUBLICATION OF WORK ON " CYANIDING
GOLD AND SILVER ORES "

THE text-book which Forbes JuHan was
preparing with the collaboration of his
colleague, Mr. Edgar Smart, was a treatise
on cyaniding. The two friends had commenced
the work in 1901, and their correspondence shows
how the difficulties of joint authorship were over-
come.

Mr. Smart had been out in Australia since the old
days of their friendship in the Transvaal. He had
been in England during 1901, but returned to South
Africa at the close of the Boer War.

It was at first intended that he should write the
mechanical part, and that Forbes Julian should
supply the chemical portion in the work, but it was
soon felt that such a plan would hardly give the best
results.

Writing from London early in 1901, Mr. Smart
invites his colleague's criticism on a sample chapter.
He says :

. . . Enclosed with this I am sending you a sample chapter
in the rough before putting on any literary polish, to see
whether it meets your views. Please criticize it destructively
quite regardless of its parentage, and, if you will allow me, I
will do the same for your part as far as my ignorance of
chemistry will allow. As you said, writing a book is the best
means of learning a subject. . . .

And in a later letter he wrote :

63

64 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

London,
^th Afril, 1 90 1.
... As it does not seem feasible entirely to separate the
chemical and mechanical portions, and if we were each to
write our portions apart there would be a difficulty about the
subsequent jointing ; and, secondly, as it does me good to
write chemistry even if occasionally marred by false doctrine ;
and as, thirdly, you have not so much time to spare as I have
at present — I submit that the best plan will be for me to
write as completely as possible, putting in all I know and
can gather, so that you can then remodel the work, cutting
out those things that be unseemly or untrue, for which
you can substitute your own knowledge. Then, when each
chapter is thus complete, it will be comparatively easy to
see which sequence of the chapters will be most natural and
instructive.

It was on lines such as these that the work was
ultimately accomplished, occasional reference being
made to friends when it seemed advisable to consult
them on specific matters. Amongst those who helped
in this way may be mentioned Mr. J. E. Clennell, a
colleague of the South African days, who was then
living in London.

By the end of 1903 the book was completed, and
was published early in 1904 by Messrs. Charles Griffin
and Co. Ltd., under the title of " Cyaniding Gold and
Silver Ores." The volume was of nearly four hundred
pages, with abundant illustrations, numerous working
drawings in the text, and thirty- four folding plates.
The appearance of this work marked a stage in the
history of cyanidation, for it was of great use to
scientists and also to practical men. A very favour-
able reception was accorded the book not only by
metallurgists but also by mining journals and other
scientific publications, but any adequate review of the
work must of necessity lie wholly beyond the range of
the present biographical sketch. A slight account,

PUBLICATION OF WORK ON CYANIDING 65

however, should find a place in this memoir, and as it
seems advisable to adduce independent testimony,
some extracts from lengthy reviews which appeared
in Nature and the Athenaum may be inserted. The
extracts in question give the following summary of
the subject and an appreciative estimate of the way
in which it had been treated.

In Nature for January 26th, 1905, we read :

The Cyanide process is still in its teens, but it is a lusty
stripling. Much of the enormous increase in the production
of gold during the last few years is due to it either directly
or indirectly. There are few gold-mines of any importance
in the world at which the process is not installed, and it has
been stated on high authority that the majority of these
mines could not earn profits and pay dividends without its
aid. Owing to the shortness of the time since the industry
of cyaniding gold and silver ores began to spring up, there
is a lack of data on the subject readily available to men at
work far from centres of civilization. There are many books
on the cyanide process, but new ones are still welcome, par-
ticulariy a book like that of Messrs. Julian and Smart. . . .

The authors were well equipped for their task, both having
been engaged in the industry for a number of years. They
have not, however, merely written down the results of their
own practical experience, a course which usually leads to
dogmatic assertions on doubtful points, but, on the contrary,
have studied the voluminous literature of the subject with
evident care. . . .

. . . The book begins with an interesting . . . chapter on
the early history of the cyanide process. The authors next
proceed to describe the laboratory experiments which are
necessary to determine the method of applying the process
to any particular ore. . . . The later chapters, dealing with
the methods and machinery used in practice, form by far the
most useful and interesting part of the book. The authors
seem to be quite at home in describing the design and con-
struction of leaching vats, precipitation boxes, pumps, launders,
sizing plants, and all the accessories of a modern cyanide mill.

The methods of treating different classes of material are
also handled with skill and judgment. . . .

ee HENRY FORBES JULIAN

The book ends with a couple of excellent chapters on the
cost of constructing plants and of treating ores. . . .

. . . And enough has been said to show . . . that those
interested in the cyanide industry cannot do without it.

In the Athenceum (August 27th, 1904) it is stated:

The smaller the amount of gold present and the finer its
state of division, the more necessary it becomes that as little
of it as possible should be wasted in extracting it from the
matrix or ore in which it lies imprisoned. The coarse,
mechanical washing, which was permissible — and paid — ^in the
happy old days of placer workings, had very early to be supple-
mented by the use of mercury. When hard, unyielding reefs
came to be attacked, even the richest, the expense of crushing,
and of otherwise preparing the ore for amalgamation, caused
many refinements of that process to be resorted to in order
to lessen the leakage.

Now the chief stores of gold are of the " low grade " type
in which the minute percentage of the precious metal in
imperceptible particles is only compensated by the com-
parative uniformity of its dissemination — as in the " banket "
deposits of the Rand. The gold which one can afford to
lose is thus reduced to its very minimum, and amalgamation
alone, however carefully carried out, is no longer equal to its
task.

Chlorination has therefore been tried, with more or less
success, but it involves the preliminary process of roasting the
ore, and to multiply operations means a reduction of profits.

A further step, and one that has proved extraordinarily
effective, has been the adoption of the cyanide process.
Essentially this process is simple enough. It may be described
as the treating of the crushed ore with a dilute solution of
potassium cyanide (an expensive and highly poisonous sub-
stance, unfortunately) exposed to the oxygenizing influence
of the air. The gold is dissolved and afterwards precipitated
from the solution by means of zinc turnings or by electrolysis.

To compare this bald statement with the excellent work
before us — four hundred pages full of accurate and needful
information, with elaborate tabular matter and careful working
drawings — is to realize the extraordinary development of the
cyanide process since 1887. In that year Messrs. Wanliss

PUBLICATION OF WORK ON CYANIDING 67

and Julian, acting as consulting engineers to the Johannesburg
Pioneer Company, erected the first small plant in which the
cyanide solution was used as an adjunct to amalgamation.
Since that time the chemist in his laboratory and the metal-
lurgist at the mines have been strenuously working hand-in-
hand to perfect every detail of the process, and throughout
they have, it must be remembered, been forced to work
under the ever-present limitations imposed by pecuniary
considerations.

To continue the process of dissolution until all of the gold
is captured is necessarily to reduce the output ; to remove
entirely the impurities present in the solvent — though to do
so would, of course, add to its efficiency — must increase the
cost, though by ever so little. These are but instances of the
advantages and disadvantages which have incessantly to be
balanced in practice. What is theoretically the more perfect
way of procedure must always give way to the interests of the
investor. To get as much gold as it will pay to get is the
only rule. But though this be so, it is very satisfactory to
note the tone in which the more modern writers, such as
Messrs. Julian and Smart, treat such subjects as these. ...

... In this volume, every slight change in the details of
practice has been noted from all parts of the world and is
carefully examined and described. But the scientific reasons
for each change are duly set forth, even though this necessitates
the discussion of topics so difficult and often so recent as the
newer views of solution and electro-chemical phenomena —
discussions which few gold-seekers of the older kind would
have listened to with patience. . . .

In its combination of sound theory clearly understood and
clearly stated with wide practical knowledge, we have met
with nothing more helpful in its way than this thoroughly
up-to-date and business-like treatise.

Mr. Sulman, a past president of the Institution of
Mining and Metallurgy, in a letter to the present
writer in 191 2, refers thus to Forbes Julian's labours :

" I profited greatly by his work. His volume on
* Cyanidihg ' has for many years been recognized as
the best treatise on Rand practice, and of the greatest

68 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

possible value to technical men. To ourselves it has
been invaluable."

Generous testimony to the value of his work was
received from several other metallurgists, and warm
congratulations immediately poured in from colleagues
and associates. Their letters show the favourable
opinion formed of his scientific labours by eminent
experts.

A letter in the Times, written after the news of
Forbes Julian's death had been received (April 20th,
1 91 2), says :

" He will be remembered as the joint author of
' Cyaniding Gold and Silver Ores,' which as a text-
book has been widely consulted."

A scientific man builds not only for his own
generation but for those which follow him, and by his
researches Forbes Julian helped to develop the process
which has worked such a change in the recovery of
gold and silver from ores. His contributions not
only threw much light on the subject, but opened
up a fresh line of investigation, and gave him a per-
manent place in the history of cyanidation, and the
text-book published about a decade ago still holds the
field.

A letter from Germany received in April 1904 from
his old friend Herr Friedrich Stockhausen brought the
sad intelligence of the death of their colleague Herr
Hugo Andreae, with whom they had both worked
long and earnestly at metallurgical problems in South
Africa ; and it also conveyed the thanks of the directors
of the Frankfort Gold und Silber Scheide-anstalt for
his book.

The loss of this friend was a very severe blow to
Forbes Julian. He was the more affected by the
intelligence as it recalled the pleasant days both in the
Transvaal and Germany passed with a kindred spirit

PUBLICATION OF WORK ON CYANIDING 69

and fellow-worker, with whom his life and scientific
researches had been at that time interwoven and
bound up. Their close friendship had in spite of
absence and separation lasted until death. Herr
Friedrich Stockhausen wrote :

Frankfort,

iSth April, 1904.
It gives me great pleasure to thank you in the name of the
directors for the copy of your interesting book " Cyaniding
Gold and Silver Ores," which we received some time ago
addressed to our Mr. Andreae. This gentleman was absent on
business at that time and returned only a few days ago,
apparently in good health, showing no visible sign that his
successful career would be finished so soon. On last Thursday
morning Hugo Andreae was found dead in his bed, the physician
ascribing the sudden end to apoplexy of the brain. I am
sure you will mourn with me for the friend with whom we
worked together in bygone days in the Transvaal.

In addition to his literary work Forbes Julian was
also engaged on investigations at the little laboratory
in his own house. Notwithstanding that he had
recently been laid aside by illness and thus prevented
from pursuing his studies in such a progressive subject
as cyanidation, he had never drifted away from his
technical interests, and the fact that he was able to
overcome this difficulty so that he remained an
authority in his own branch of science and made up
for lost time is evidence not only of good natural
powers but of a resolute will.

But however highly his technical work was appre-
ciated by his colleagues, it was not this alone which
secured for him the popularity he undoubtedly pos-
sessed. In the course of years he had made many
friends who were not in a position to have been

L impressed by the value of his original investigations.
To his charm in private life may chiefly be attributed
T "'

70 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

kindness of heart endeared him to many of those with
whom he came in contact, and it was because of this
unselfish disposition in daily life, more than from the
patient and laborious labours of a hard scientific
career, that he received so warm a welcome in different
parts of the world. The mark he made on his genera-
tion sprang from his personality, and was shown not
so much by his book or his researches, valuable as these
were, as by his influence over his colleagues and other
men.

CHAPTER VIII

HOME LIFE AT TORQUAY AND TRAVELS
IN ENGLAND

NO truly adequate impression of a man's
character and worth can be based upon the
external manifestations of his public life
and his professional relations. It is in the relaxation
of home life that these are best revealed and serve
to picture what such a man really is. The following
intimate account of the home life lived by Forbes
Julian at Torquay will therefore help towards a better
appreciation of the real man than a too insistent
account of his professional pursuits and avocations.

Despite the many demands on his time and attention
he found frequent opportunities for much pleasant
intercourse with friends and neighbours. Amongst
the many visitors to " Redholme " were Miss Alice
Zimmern, the authoress of " Tales from Old Greece,"
and Mrs. Buckley Fisher, the authoress of that popular
work " The Fairyland of Science " ; while in the
spring of 1903 Professor and Mrs. Barker, of Phila-
delphia, stayed at Torquay, Forbes Julian himself
deriving the greatest enjoyment in discussing physics
and chemistry with the professor, whose conversation
he found most interesting and stimulating.

In March of the same year Bishop Ryle, who had
been transferred from the see of Exeter to that of
Winchester, visited Torquay to deliver an address at
the Pengelly Memorial Hall, and was a guest at
" Redholme." That he quitted the west of England

71

72 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

with great regret is shown by an extract from his
letter, sent from the Palace, Exeter, just before leaving,
in which he says :

I shall bitterly grieve over my severance from Devon.
But the kindness of my friends gives me cause for thankfulness
and consolation.

In his address at Torquay Bishop Ryle dwelt
especially on the power of the Resurrection and the
necessity of a constant realization of this great central
truth of Christianity. The devotional spirit in which
he spoke made itself felt by all present and riveted the
attention of his hearers, as he expressed in simple but
eloquent words the full and fearless teaching of " the
faith once delivered to the saints."

During the summer the Julians travelled up to
London, attending a number of scientific lectures and
conferences, and the Royal Society's conversazione.
Lighter recreation was afforded by several attendances at
Shakespearean performances at His Majesty's Theatre,
but Forbes Julian was never an enthusiastic theatre-
goer, although as a Shakespearean student he derived
much pleasure from the performances in question.
He also greatly appreciated the Opera, his natural
love of music having been developed and cultivated
during his stay in Italy and Germany.

Returning home in July, he and)Jiis wife were present
at the Devonshire Association at Sidmouth, which was
a most successful gathering. The valuable papers and
reports given by the Rev. S. Baring Gould, Dr. Brush-
field, and Mr. A. R. Hunt, being on subjects connected
with the county, were attractive even to non-scientific
hearers. Sir Edgar Vincent filled the presidential
chair with ability, and his opening address was well
illustrated. On the last evening a lecture open to
the public is generally given, and on this occasion
Dr. Johnston-Lavis, one of the members (lately

HOME LIFE AT TORQUAY 73

Professor of Volcanology in the Royal University of
Naples), delivered an able lecture on " Vesuvius, the
Type Volcano," v^rhich was illustrated with lantern
slides made from photographs taken by Dr. Johnston-
Lavis himself under conditions of no little difficulty
and danger.

In September the Julians attended the meeting of
the British Association, held that year at Southport,
under the presidency of Sir Norman Lockyer. In the
work of the Physical Science Section, where Professor
Vernon Boys was chairman, and of the Chemical
Section, under Professor Hartley, there was much that
aroused the metallurgist's enthusiasm.

This meeting was the occasion of his first introduc-
tion to Sir William Crookes, Dr. Beilby, Dr. Divers,
and other leading men, with whom he afterwards
became better acquainted ; and he appreciated the
opportunities of intercourse that the gathering afforded
with so many well-known scientists, and also hearing
their discussions of the various problems over which he
had long pondered.

During the stay at Southport he found time to
visit the Westinghouse Works, and, moreover, to take
his wife down a coal-mine near Wigan. The tour was
further prolonged by a short visit to the Lake district
and an expedition to the Isle of Man, undertaken in
company with their American friends Professor and
Mrs. C. H. White, of Georgia. The archaeological
remains, including the Runic and Celtic crosses and
the ruined cathedral of St. Germans, with the Round
Tower and Castle at Peel, were carefully inspected,
being of exceptional interest. The mountain of Snae
Fell was also visited and fine views obtained of the
mountain ranges in England, Wales, Scotland, and
Ireland, which can only occasionally be discerned in
unusually clear weather.

74 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

Returning ta Devonshire in the late autumn, a
visit was paid to Mr. Brooking Rowe, the well-
known archaeologist, at Castle Barbican, near
Plymouth, the Christmas season being spent at home
at Torquay.

It was naturally a great pleasure to Forbes Julian to
meet those who were well acquainted ynth South
Africa, and when during 1903 Dr. Chandler, Bishop
of Bloemfontein, stayed at Torquay much mutual
enjoyment was derived from talking over many matters
of Colonial interest, recalling quaint experiences of
travel in bullock wagons and mail-carts, sojourns in
out-of-the-way farms, and wanderings over the veld.
Writing after his return to Bloemfontein, the Bishop
refers to the havoc wrought by the disastrous floods
which had recently occurred in the Orange River
Colony, and describes a good deal of Bloemfontein
as having " been washed away by the terrible flood,"
and its course as marked by " ruins of houses and masses
of corrugated iron."

Other South African friends met with at Torquay
were Sir Arthur Havelock and Mr. F. P. T. Struben.
The former (a nephew of the heroic Sir Henry Havelock,
of Mutiny fame) had been Governor of Natal, and to the
latter and his brother, Mr. H. W. Struben, is ascribed
by common consent the distinction of having discovered
the Witwatersrand goldfields. It will readily be under-
stood with what pleasure the metallurgist met one who
had been so intimately associated with the early days of
gold-mining on the Rand, and whose pursuits had been
so much akin to his own. With the late Governor of
Natal he had also many interests in common. Sir
Arthur's letters were ever welcome, and in like manner
his conversation always afforded pleasure. The strength
of those ties which connected Forbes Julian with
South Africa and all the old associations with his

HOME LIFE AT TORQUAY 75

early technical work there were still closely felt by
him in his maturer years.

During March he and his wife entertained her
father's old friend Sir Robert Ball, who was lectur-
ing on astronomy at different towns in Devonshire.
Dean Pigou also visited Torquay about the same
time and was their guest at " Redholme." The two
visitors seemed glad to meet and exchange stories and
anecdotes, and both appeared to draw on a perfectly
inexhaustible storehouse of narrative and varied
information.

One such anecdote related to a compositor who set
up a sermon that was being printed for a perfervid
preacher, who was niade to wind up a thrilling harvest
sermon with this fierce threat : " Doubtless I shall
come again with rejoicing, bringing my shears with
me.".

Another story related to a local magnate who,
having been asked to thank some speakers for their
addresses at a missionary meeting, uttered a few plati-
tudes quite successfully. Being anxious to display
some flights of rhetoric, he tried to wind up by
speaking of the great pioneers of missionary work, and
said, " I recall vividly at this time those never-to-be-
forgotten names " but stopped short, trying to

remember who the immortals were. " I repeat," he
said again, " that I now vividly recall those never-to-
be-forgotten names." Being unable to remember even
one of them, he suggested to the audience for the
third time : " I have now to repeat to you that I
recall vividly at the present time the never-to-be-
forgotten names — of — of "

" Never-to-be-remembered names" was in every-
one's mind, but at this crisis some compassionate
person handed a paper on to the platform containing
the names of half a dozen of the most prominent

^e HENRY FORBES JULIAN

missionaries of the nineteenth century, and the unfor-
tunate orator was able to bring his peroration to a
close.

The account of an old Cornishman named Josiah,
whose performances had been related to the present
writer by her father, amused the visitors. It was as
follows :

Josiah had lived an utterly reckless and boisterous
life, and thus had earned the reputation of being a
very bad old man ; but at length he turned over a
new leaf, took to himself his fourth wife (a young
creature, who brought him a new family), and lived
as decently as the times demanded from a man of his
accumulated years of bad habits. In order to show
the decided character of his reformation he gave the
firstborn son of his new family the name of Abraham.
When the second arrived he was named Isaac. Of
course there was no doubt as to the law of the father's
intentions at the time — ^the third son was destined to
be called Jacob. But, alas for human intentions ! no
third son was born to him. Most men under the
circumstances would have succumbed, and said, " You
see, my friends, what I meant to do, and will of course
applaud me ; but you must take the will for the deed,
as fate is against me." That, however, was not the
mould in which Josiah was cast^ He snapped his
fingers at fate, being resolved to complete the patri-
archal trio and have a Jacob in his family. He
accordingly bought a donkey and called him Jacob ;
and it is pleasant to record that Jacob performed his
duties admirably and outlived both his seniors in
nomenclature.

Another Cornish story concerned an old man named
Searle, who was a heavy, lumpish fisherman, ordinarily
far too lazy to do any kind of work with the exception
of fishing. Most of his fellows had a plot of garden

HOME LIFE AT TORQUAY 77

which they cultivated at the odd moments which
present themselves in the life of a fisherman, or they
did at least a little smuggling in order to " earn an
honest penny," as they termed it, and bring up a
family comfortably. Searle abstained on principle
from exerting himself, the principle being that known
in Scotland and elsewhere under the expression of
" I canna be fashed." Now and then, however, he
would throw off a little of his sluggishness, not to
work, but to have a pot or two of beer, the effect of
which was to loosen everything about him. His
tongue manifested its freedom by informing the world,
with an emphasis worthy an original remark, that
" 'twas a sad heart that never rejoiced." His liberated
legs invariably broke out into a dance, which, though
never graceful, was always energetic, as indeed might
be expected when so large an amount of suppressed
action had to be expressed. He commonly preferred
footing it on the table, but, whether there or else-
where, always danced in his stockings, making the
prefatory remark that his wife " could mend stockings,
but not shoes."

The history of one of Mr. Pengelly's early experiences
in Torquay, when he was mistaken for a boon com-
panion of the man he was trying to rescue, was also
related. One evening about ten o'clock, when walking
home, he had seen some large object lying in the road,
and, approaching, found it to be a man fearfully
intoxicated. On being raised to his feet the inebriate
fell immediately, but after many efforts he succeeded
in giving his name and address. Being familiar with
the district, his rescuer resolved on taking him home.
The labour was by no means trifling, as the distance
was fully two miles, the night was dark, and the man
was heavy and utterly helpless. At length his house
was reached at about one o'clock in the morning.

78 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

A knock at the door was answered by his wife, with
whom the following pleasant conversation took place :
" Is this your husband ? " "Yes, unfortunately. I
wish he was in heaven ! " "I found him lying in the
road, and could do no less than take him home."
" A pretty story to tell me ! No doubt you've been
drinking with him." " Good-night, ma'am. Here's
my card." And in this way he disposed of his charge—
and hers, for Mr. Pengelly's name was well known at
the time to most of the inhabitants of Torquay as that
of a prominent total abstainer.

Another story described a young fellow whom the
geologist had taught gratuitously at a night school,
the youth in question having apparently such insuper-
able difficulty in mastering the mysteries of the
alphabet that it seemed likely he would never learn
to read. The boy's father was, however, very anxious
for him to be put into the writing class, and when
met with the remark that " it was useless to teach
anyone to write who could not read what he had
written," replied, " You teach 'un to write, and I'll
get somebody to read it safe enough."

With two Irishmen present, Hibernian stories were
naturally abundant, being related both by Sir Robert
Ball and his host. One concerned an Irish carman
who had been ordered by a party of six people to meet
them at a wayside station either with a wagonette or
two outside cars. On alighting from the train and
seeing only one small solitary vehicle, they asked him
in astonishment if they could all be accommodated
in the car. " Dade, and you can," replied Pat
imperturbably. " It's like this, there's room for four
if ye sit adjacent, and room for six if ye sit familiar."

There was good sense as well as humour in the remark
of a countryman who thus answered his master's charge
that he had come to work very late one morning:

HOME LIFE AT TORQUAY 79

" Sure I took the short cut, your honour, and 'twas
that detained me." And the Irish maid-servant who
was not an early riser, and so habitually late for Mass,
was equally ready in repartee when she explained to
those who taxed her with not being in time, " And it
wasn't my fault, nor I that was late, but the praiste
who wouldn't wait for me."

An Irish bull, which really described very clearly
the characteristics of a domestic servant fond of
roaming about, was expressed in the following remark
made by the girl's employer.

" Where's Norah ? " asked the master of the house
irritably one evening.

" She's gone out again," replied the mistress
apologetically.

" Gone out again ! Confound that girl, she goes
out twenty times for the once she comes in ! " ex-
claimed the long-suffering master, who wanted his
supper.

Another story gave an instance of the blarney of
the Irishwomen who come out to sell lace to
travellers.

"Buy this Limerick lace for your wife, my pretty
gentleman," said an old crone on one occasion.

" How do you know that I am married ? " was the
reply.

'' Not married ! Buy it for your lady friends then,"
she replied, nothing daunted.

" I have no lady friends," was the answer.

" No lady friends and you so good-looking ! " came
the ready retort in a tone of affected incredulity as to
the truth of this statement.

Sir Robert Ball's lecture at Torquay was appro-
priately delivered on St. Patrick's Day, and the
extremely clear and luminous style of his address made
the charming exposition of his favourite subject ai?

8o HENRY FORBES JULIAN

enjoyment even to those hearers who had no great
knowledge of astronomical science.

Before he started for the lecture hall a local photo-
grapher who had discovered his presence came to
the house and, after some difficulty, persuaded the
astronomer to be photographed. He only consented
on condition that his fellow-guests, Dean Pigou and
the Honourable Helen Cubitt, with his host and
hostess and her sister, should be photographed in a
group with him. This was accordingly taken in the
garden at " Redholme."

'<.

CHAPTER IX

SCIENTIFIC PAPERS AND MEETINGS. VISIT
OF CAPTAIN SCOTT

PART of the summer was spent in London, and
after attending the meeting of the Devon-
shire Association at Teignmouth Forbes
Julian and his wife returned home at the end of
July. He was now beginning to take a prominent
and useful part in the proceedings of the Torquay
Natural History Society, and gave a paper before the
members on " Electrolysis " at an evening meeting
early in August. In reading, his voice was low-toned
and pleasant, with a slight touch of hesitation. Much
interest was manifested in this communication, not
only by residents in the neighbourhood, but also by
his friends at a distance, particularly Professor Barker,
and Mr. Charles Neild of Manchester, the latter
coming down from Lancashire to hear the paper and
the discussion thereon. After delivering this discou|*se
he started with his wife for Cambridge, where the
British Association assembled this month. The Prime
Minister, Mr. Balfour, was President in 1904, and
contributed to the value of the gathering by his
thoughtful address and able chairmanship. The
proceedings were of a high order of merit in Sections
A and B, Professor Horace Lamb taking the chair
in the section of Physical Science and Professor Sydney
Young in that of Chemistry — the papers contributed
by Sir William Ramsay, Sir James Dewar, and Dr.
Beilby at the latter section being especially noteworthy

81 F

82 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

to Forbes Julian, who rejoiced in every onward step
made by science.

A day was spent at Ely in seeing the magnificent
Minster, that "most stately and varied cathedral-
church of the Fens," under the guidance of Dean
Stubbs, and afterwards visiting Archdeacon Emery,
the founder of the Church Congress. Many recep-
tions were held during the week and tours of inspection
made to the colleges, visits also being paid to Sir
Robert and Lady Ball at the Observatory and to other
friends amongst the professorial staff of the University.

Early in the winter the Rev. Dr. Plummer, of
Durham, gave some addresses on Church History at
the Pengelly Memorial Hall, and Colonel Sir Thomas
Holdich, of Afghan fame, lectured on Tibet at
Torquay. They both came to " Redholme," where
several friends interested in historical matters and in
geographical research had been invited to meet them.

Soon after this visit Sir Thomas wrote from South
Kensington on December 14th :

... I have been away on a lecturing tour in Scotland, and
find on my return considerable arrears of correspondence. . . .
I shall always remember my pleasant visit to Torquay, and the
time which I spent with you. ... I envy you the capacity
for keeping in touch with those whose scientific work in the
world is so interesting. I am sending you a work on India,
a geographical text-book which I wrote five years ago ; the
Clarendon Press pubUshed it, and you may find something of
interest to you in it. . . .

In December a Christmas party was given for
Captain Robert F. Scott, who delivered an account at
Torquay of his Antarctic travels, and in whose adven-
tures all his fellow Devonians felt especial interest
and pride. His lecture there, and at other places,
was remarkably successful, and appealed not only to
lovers of geographical discovery but to the general

SCIENTIFIC PAPERS AND MEETINGS 83

public. The fact that the gallant sailor had pene-
trated four hundred miles further south than any-
previous adventurer, and so much nearer the South
Pole, sent a thrill of excitement through the British
people and gave a new impulse to their desire for a
fresh expedition, in the hope that the desired goal
might be ultimately reached.

Many years had elapsed since the previous South
Polar expedition, w^hich was so bravely undertaken
by Sir James Ross and his companions. Their graphic
accounts of the awful perpendicular cliffs of ice encoun-
tered had left a keen impression on the minds of those
interested in geographical exploration of the dangers
and difficulties to be met with in the Antarctic, so
that Captain Scott and his party naturally received an
enthusiastic welcome from the whole country for
their intrepid heroism. At Torquay the thought of
his magnificent exploit and the modesty with which
he related his wonderful narrative held the attention
of the whole audience spell-bound, as he described in
simple language the story of the hardships that the
members of the expedition had suffered, and the
cheerful manner in which their privations had been
borne. His was a feat worthy to rank high amongst
the greatest geographical exploits — an enterprise that
has advanced the credit of Devon and shown that her
sons are worthy successors of Drake, Raleigh, and
Hawkins in bringing distinction on the British flag,
and that they are animated by the spirit of those great
Devonians — to whom England owes her prosperity,
her religious freedom and records of heroism — ^who
defeated the Spanish Armada and helped to lay
the foundations of our Empire. Driving back from
ghe lecture, further details were given, and from

ublin, whither he proceeded (to give a lecture on
lis Antarctic experiences). Captain Scott wrote

84 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

expressing the pleasure that the visit to " Redholme ''
had afforded him.

He also lectured at Cheltenham and other towns
during December, and special interest for Forbes
Julian and his wife was afforded to the description of
the exploit on account of the presence of Dr. Wilson
on the expedition, whose sketches exhibited in London
had given them much pleasure. The doctor was
related to the present writer's cousin, who on
December 5th wrote from Worcestershire, alluding
thus to the officers on the Discovery :

. . . We are hoping to hear Captain Scott's lecture next
Saturday at Chehenham ; I have written to my cousin, Dr.
Wilson, to get us tickets. His son, Dr. E. A. Wilson, was
one of the medical officers on the Discovery and one of the
three men who undertook the sledge expedition far away
south. We were at Mill Hill for a few days about the middle
of last month, and one afternoon we went to see the Antarctic
Expedition Exhibition in Bruton Street ; it was most
interesting and my cousin's sketches were lovely, such won-
derful colouring and so cleverly done. . . .

These pictures helped all who saw them to realize
the extraordinary fascination of the Polar region, its
vast desolation, its mystery, beauty, and terror, with
the weird snow and ice formations, strange clouds,
and marvellous effects of light. In their second
expedition Captain Scott, Dr. Wilson, and their
brave companions clung to their project with British
tenacity until the South Pole was reached. They
and their companions, in fame and in death, have shed
the light of their own heroism on the path of future
explorers. Sir Arthur Havelock took much interest in
the visit of Captain Scott, and wrote on December 6th
from Kilmorie, Torquay:

It is very good of you to ask us to meet Captain Scott. . .
My wife is writing also to say how very much we hope you

SCIENTIFIC PAPERS AND MEETINGS 85

will both be able to give us the pleasure of lunching with us
neit Monday, when, if you will allow me, I will show you
my collection of curiosities picked up in various parts of the
world. . . . Will you accept a copy of the December number
of Longman^s Magazine, containing a paper on Japan by my
brother-in-law, Mr. W. E. Norris ? . . .

It was at Lady Havelock's parties that they had
first met Mr. W. E. Norris, the well-known novelist
who writes so agreeably about modern society, his
characters being exceedingly well represented and
wonderfully lifelike.

Other literary residents in Torquay at this time
were Mr. Eden Phillpotts, the gifted exponent of
Dartmoor ; Miss Christabel Coleridge (a grand-
daughter of the poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge), the
writer of " Lady Betty " and several other stories ;
and Miss Mary Findlater, authoress of " The Rose of
Joy," v^dth her sister Miss Jane Helen Findlater, the
writer of " The Green Graves of Balgowrie."

It was always a pleasure to converse with them on
literary topics, and some of the works of the modern
school of Polish novelists, which were greatly attracting
Forbes Julian, were new to Miss Findlater and her
sister. Miss Jane Helen Findlater wrote in November
1904 from Mount Stuart, Torquay:

L ... I hope to return your books soon, but as you said there

i was no great hurry about them, I am taking time to enjoy

" The Children of the Soil," by Henryk Sienkiewicz, as it

deserves ; it is a wonderful book and seems to transport one

into a new world. . . .

In addition to scientific matters, the metallurgist
was an enthusiastic and diligent reader of poetry and

I of contemporary European fiction. He had studied
the great German and Italian writers whilst at Frank-
fort and Florence, and was well acquainted vdth the
_ —

86 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

of France. For the Russian authors Tolstoi and
Tourguenieff , with their imaginative power and philo-
sophic insight, he had the highest admiration. He
also enjoyed the works of several of the writers of
Holland and Hungary, especially Maartens and
Maurus Jokai.

A favourite English work was " The Private Papers
of Henry Ryecroft," that beautiful book that has
found its way to the hearts of so many Devonians.
Of all British novelists Thackeray was the most highly
appreciated and most frequently read. The kindly
wit and genial humour which give such an indescribable
charm to the simple occupations and incidents of daily
life as described in the works of Jane Austen and
Mrs. Gaskell also afforded him unfailing pleasure.

This winter some motoring expeditions taken vdth
friends on Dartmoor in cool but brilliantly bright
weather were much enjoyed. This vdld tract of
uncultivated country, with the rugged granite tors,
rushing torrents, and beautiful hills and glens clothed
with fern and furze, at all seasons exercised a great
fascination over Forbes Julian, who delighted in the
wildness and grandeur of moorland scenery.

In January 1905 Professor and Mrs. Ayrton were
at Torquay, when he had the pleasure of meeting this
distinguished scientist and his accomplished wife.
The Professor was looking forward to the approaching
gathering of the British Association in South Africa,
having promised to deliver a lecture at Johannesburg,
and as the metallurgist was contributing a paper to
the Chemical Section, they had some discussion on
the subjects which mutually attracted them. The
Professor also examined the little laboratory apparatus
at " Redholme," and heard of the progress of his host's
researches, with accounts of his labours, during the
past two years of quiet work at home.

SCIENTIFIC PAPERS AND MEETINGS 87

Visitors at Torquay during the winter included Sir
Bernhard Samuelson and Sir John Hibbert, both these
retired Members of Parliament taking a warm interest
in those practical problems of modern life that concern
men rather than wealth, and which had always appealed
strongly to Forbes Julian — questions for which
succeeding generations are likely to demand a still
more prominent place. Others interested also in
these important social matters who frequently visited
Torquay were Lord Ashcombe and Mr. Albert Pell,
whom he met about the same time.

He felt that it was necessary to inculcate a real sense
of individual responsibility, teaching men to raise
their ideals and expand their outlook, and to dis-
countenance that anxiety for rapid results and hasty
legislative makeshifts which constitutes a real menace
to a modern electorate. His feeling was of the kind
which would strive to bring home to the hearts of
others a sense of the sacredness of national life ; the
greatness and continuity of Britain's history, her
traditions of disciplined freedom and her increasing
colonial obligations in all parts of the world ; to
further a knowledge of the far-reaching responsibilities,
as well as the advantages of good citizenship and loyal
imperialism ; so that the vast empire may be built up
on the social virtues of self-reliance, discipline, and
mutual trust. This had become his ideal during the
long and extensive travels of former years.

With the advent of spring other visitors arrived,
and in March Lady Binns (the widow of the late
Premier of Natal) came to Torquay and visited
** Redholme," meeting Sir Arthur and Lady Havelock
there, and talking over bygone days in South Africa
and many subjects of imperial interest with them and
her host, who, having lived in the colonial world,
shared in and understood its aspirations.

88 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

After attending the annual general meeting of
the Torquay Natural History Society (which he was
still serving as a member of committee), he and
his wife went to London, breaking the journey in
Dorsetshire for the purpose of witnessing the Sher-
borne Pageant. This picturesque and novel event of
the early summer was the first of a series of folk-plays
and historical representations that have since become
increasingly popular. Whilst in Town he was occupied
with the various scientific engagements which were
always so congenial. The Thursday afternoon meet-
ings of the Royal Society and the annual soiree were
attended at Burlington House through the invitation
of the President, Sir William Huggins — Dr. Wilson,
of the Antarctic Expedition, being present at the latter
gathering and giving a short address.

During this visit to London preparations were made
for an approaching voyage to South Africa, undertaken
with other members of the British Association. A
good many years had passed since Forbes Julian had
been there, and he looked forward to the expedition
with enthusiasm. But as the programme of the
meeting was long and interesting, forming an important
epoch in the yearly annals of the Association, the
description of this journey must be told in the next
chapter, with some account of the Paper which he
read at Johannesburg before the members of the
Chemical Section.

CHAPTER X

WITH THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION IN SOUTH
AFRICA

{Compiled from Mrs. Forhes Julian's Journals)

LEAVING Southampton in July by the Durham
Castle, SL comfortable steamer of the Union-
jI Castle Line, Forbes Julian and his wife
found themselves amongst a pleasant band of scientists
and old friends. These included Professor Penck, of
Vienna, and other foreign savants, and several British
professors and their families.

After a few days at sea, Teneriffe was reached, and
they were so anxious to secure the earliest glimpse of
the Peak that they were up before dawn watching the
gradual coming on of day and the steady development
of the land. They were rewarded by seeing the
beautiful sunrise, the snow-clad mountain, looking
most glorious in a blaze of gold and crimson light,
casting a brilliant reflection on all around. Soon after-
wards a crowd of people came on board with articles
for sale, and boats appeared full of boys who dived for
the coins thrown them by the passengers. Unfor-
tunately Captain Moseley, the commander of the
Durham Castle, could allow only a short time for
landing at the port of Santa Cruz, where the cathedral
is the chief attraction. A longer time was, however,
permitted at Las Palmas, the capital of Grand Canary,
the only other stopping- place. Here a delightful
drive was taken, the town being inspected and the

89

90 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

fruit market visited. It all presented a busy and
animated scene. At the fine cathedral, which is of
Spanish flamboyant style, the vestments and plate
were shown to the visitors ; and at the museum and
other public buildings everything was done to enable
them to see all that was feasible during their brief
stay.

After leaving Las Palmas they were favoured with
smooth seas and lovely skies, and the weather was
extremely warm for a few days, but became com-
paratively cool again before the landing at Cape
Town. On crossing the Equator the usual festivities
took place, including the impersonation of Father
Neptune.

The long voyage was a period of relaxation to all.
Added to the pleasure of meeting old friends and
making fresh acquaintances amongst those bound for
the same destination, there were many novel features
which marked the trip as exceptional, especially the
delivery of evening lectures by Mr. Oscar Browning,
Professor Reynolds Green, and Admiral Maclear.
Discussions also were raised on various scientific topics
in addition to the usual entertainments of a fancy
dress ball, several concerts, a book tea, and games on
deck such as are generally held on the South African
liners. It was to be expected, with several naturalists
on board, that those interested in marine zoology
should enjoy seeing displays of the varied micro-
scopic specimens collected from day to day, as the
state of the sea changed and new forms appeared.
This especially enlivened the monotony of the voyage ;
and the sea-birds that floated and wheeled around, and
the flying-fish, porpoises, whales, and sharks also
attracted attention.

Reaching Cape Town early in August, the travellers
were greeted by Sir Colin and Lady Scott-Moncrieff,

BRITISH ASSOCIATION IN S. AFRICA 91

Professor and Mrs. Cleland, and a few other members
who had sailed on the Kildonan Castle,

The streets presented a great mixture of nationali-
ties, Europeans, Asiatics, and Africans being seen, and
every shade of complexion from pure white to yellow,
brown, and black. The beautiful district round Table
Mountain was eagerly explored, the first week in Cape
Town being a period of pleasant excitement to those
who had not previously been in South Africa. Once
again, after the lapse of ten years, Forbes Julian found
himself in Cape Colony, and it afforded him great
enjoyment to revisit many familiar spots ; he was able
also to act as guide to his wife and various friends.
The public buildings in Cape Town, including the
Castle, the Parliament House, the Anglican and
Roman Catholic cathedrals, the Mosque, the South
African College, and other institutions, are worthy of
attention, and were inspected vnth much interest.
Service was attended at the Anglican cathedral, where
Canon Crisp introduced himself to the visitors and
conducted them over the beautiful Botanical Gardens,
which, with the exotic and indigenous plants, form one
of the most attractive places in the neighbourhood.
On Tuesday, August 15th, the other members of the
Association arrived on the R.M.S. Saxon, The
inaugural meeting was held the same evening, when
Professor George Darwin, the President, delivered the
first part of his Address. The next day the business
of the Sections commenced with the reading of
Papers and the usual discussions ; and Forbes Julian,
now on the committee of Section B (Chemistry), was
somewhat closely engaged.

On Wednesday afternoon Sir Walter Hely-Hutchin-
son. Governor of Cape Colony, received the members
at Government House ; and the Mayor (Mr. Liberman)
held a conversazione in the evening at the City Hall.

92 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

On Thursday the reading of Papers was again resumed,
and degrees were conferred by the University of the
Cape of Good Hope on the President and many
distinguished British and foreign professors. The
members also drove out during the week in the charm-
ing Cape carts (vehicles on two wheels, covered with
large hoods) to various places in the neighbourhood,
obtaining beautiful views from Table Mountain and
visiting the Kloof Road, Sea Point, and Camps Bay.
At every turn new features claimed their wonder and
admiration, and they were delighted with the genial
climate and the natural beauties of the district.

One afternoon they were entertained at Groote
Schuur, a fascinating old Dutch mansion, formerly
famous as the home of Cecil Rhodes, and at this
time the official residence of Dr. Jameson, who was
unfortunately suffering from illness and absent in
England. It was naturally a disappointment to
Forbes Julian to miss seeing this friend of former
years. The pleasure-grounds of Groote Schuur are
charmingly situated at Rondebosch on the slopes of
Table Mountain, and the house is exceedingly quaint
and picturesque. The mountain itself is very striking
with the straight level top from which its name is
derived. The lower slopes are clad with fir-trees,
and fine views can be obtained of the bright blue
waters of the bay, greatly enhancing the beauty of
the scene. The mountains and adjacent hills rise
in magnificent terraces from 3000 to 4000 feet in
height.

On Thursday evening Professor Poulton, of Oxford,
lectured on " W. J. Burchell's Discoveries in South
Africa " ; and on Friday night a lecture entitled
" Some Surface Action of Fluids " was delivered by
Professor Vernon Boys. On Saturday, the 19th, a
motoring expedition was taken to Houts Bay. The

BRITISH ASSOCIATION IN S. AFRICA 93

visitors especially enjoyed the drive round the fine
scenery of Table Mountain, the harbour v^ith its
ships, the city w^ith its busy streets, and the distant
views forming a varied panorama.

The Durham Castle sailed for Durban that evening,
the Saxon having sailed on Friday, and as several of
the members v^ere anxious to spend the Saturday in
Cape Town, whilst others wished to proceed sooner
by the Saxon, some changes had taken place in the
list of travellers on the two steamships. Several
fresh friends were found on board the Durham
Castle, including the President, Professor Darwin,
Admiral Sir William Wharton, and Sir David and
Lady Gill.

Durban was reached on the morning of Tuesday,
August 22nd. It had been comparatively cool at Cape
Town, and the warmer climate here, with the sub-
tropical character of the beautiful vegetation of Natal,
was evidence of the great difference between the waters
of the Indian Ocean and the colder Atlantic currents
on the shores of Cape Town.

Both in Cape Colony and Natal great hospitality
was shown by residents to the members. On the day
of arrival at Durban a reception was given by Sir
Benjamin Greenacre, and an excursion was arranged
on the following day, when the Sugar Mill at Mount
Edgecombe (the largest in Natal) was visited.

Durban is charmingly laid out, and there are fine
Botanical Gardens here as at Cape Town, the trees
and plants being even more beautiful and luxuriant.
One of the chief attractions of the gardens is the Palm
House, where many gigantic palms and dainty ferns
are to be found. The fragrance and delicacy of the
richly coloured flowers and shrubs and the gracefulness
of the palms add inexpressibly to the charm of the
scene in Berea and other environs of this beautiful

94 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

place, few towns having more romantic natural
features than are presented by Durban and its sur-
roundings. Before leaving the district the travellers
had the pleasure of visiting their friend Lady Binns
at Berea.

The important evening lectures given by Professor
Herdman on " Marine Biology " and by Mr. Douglas
Freshfield on " The Mountains of the Old World "
were popular and well attended.

A novel experience was added to the journey whilst
at Mount Edgecombe by the spectacle of a series of
war-dances performed by several hundred natives, the
stalwart Zulus making a striking picture in all the
war decorations of warriors ready for a fray. Some of
them carried shields and staves, although it was con-
sidered prudent to forbid assegais. At the commence-
ment loudly gesticulating men emerged, but later
they were arranged in lines and groups, with a few
head-men in advance. From these ranks gigantic and
half-naked Zulu warriors sprang forward with flashing
eyes, shouting, bounding about, and slaying their
enemies in imaginary pantomime, whilst their excited
comrades shouted back in response. The women
applauded by clapping their hands and uttering wild
and piercing cries. It was a strange display of barbaric
revelry, one that must be seen to be fully realized.
The visitors were thus able to witness some scenes of
native life, as well as to study the metamorphosis from
the savage to the civilized being.

The following day at Henley a great Kaffir dance
by a thousand natives was organized in the presence
of the Governor. This further glimpse of primitive
life was of exceptional interest. The dance consisted
of the men advancing and retreating in line to the
accompaniment of much monotonous singing and
stamping. The Ain-funze danced first, and were

I

BRITISH ASSOCIATION IN S. AFRICA 95

followed by the Amampumuza, and they in turn by
the Inadi. This curious spectacle was followed by
another striking event, the marriage of Mhola, the
hereditary chief of the Inadi tribe, to a fine-looking
young woman, who was said to be of much lower
rank than his own. The ceremony was lengthy, but
was watched with curiosity by the visitors, and has
been described in various papers.

After leaving Durban the members were accommo-
dated in the four special trains hospitably arranged
for them. At Pietermaritzburg, the capital of Natal,
they were received at a garden party given by Sir
H. E. Macallum, the Governor ; and evening lectures
were delivered by Colonel Bruce on " Sleeping Sick-
ness " and Mr. Ferrar on the " Antarctic Regions."
In this picturesque city, situated in a leafy hollow
and commanded by hills on every side, the travellers
enjoyed visiting the beautiful and well-timbered
Alexandra Park and the bright and attractive Botanical
Gardens.

The two cathedral churches, St. Peter's and St.
Saviour's, were visited. The remains of Bishop
Colenso, the great scholar, repose beside the altar in
St. Peter's. There has been a revulsion of feeling in
recent years with reference to the subjects on which
he wrote, and many earnest Churchmen now hold
views far in advance of those once deemed too free
and outspoken. Colenso's daughters still live at
Pietermaritzburg and are great supporters of a generous
policy towards the natives.

After leaving this city the historic part of tlie
journey commenced, the railway ride across the district
of the Tugela being full of sad but inspiring memories

Lof the heroic dead and of the courage of our troops.
Colenso and Ladysmith were the two stopping-places
from which the battlefields of Natal were studied,
-

96 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

The fatal field of Colenso is full of mournful associa-
tions, with soldiers' graves on every side — a magnetic
spot by reason of its recollections of strenuous strife.
To the Devonian travellers, Wagon Hill, near Lady-
smith, was one of the most memorable spots visited,
for here was made the magnificent charge of the Devons
upon which, it has been truly said, the fate of the
garrison, and perhaps of British rule in South Africa,
hung for a time in the balance. The fight was hard
and long, but at last our heroes swept the Boers " like
chaff before the wind in unutterable confusion, and
at length, after fifteen hours' continuous fighting,
through mist and darkness, scorching heat and blinding
hail and rain, foodless, parched, exhausted," they
obtained that victory, the impulse of which reanimated
the hopes of all the British people so anxiously watching
the fortunes of the war. The difficulties of the task
before Sir Redvers Buller and the dangers and respon-
sibilities with which Sir George White and the heroes
of Ladysmith were confronted can be better under-
stood after a visit to the battlefields and a study of
the campaign on the spot.

At Colenso and Ladysmith, owing to the limited
hotel accommodation, the members slept on the four
special trains, which began to assume quite a home-
like character. The train journey between Colenso
and Ladysmith is probably the most striking in South
Africa on account of the associations of the war, and
many of the kopjes and krantzes held by Briton and
Boer during the investment may be viewed in the
neighbourhood. The fastnesses of the Drakensberg
range, containing some of the grandest and wildest
scenery in South Africa, can easily be visited from
Ladysmith. The three highest points are Giant's
Castle and Mont-aux-Sources in Natal, and Cathkin
Peak, just over the border, in Basutoland.

BRITISH ASSOCIATION IN S. AFRICA 97

Several members interested in geology and botany
or fond of mountain climbing here left the party to
make longer excursions, but as Forbes Julian was
already well acquainted with the fine scenery of the
Tugela River and the Drakensberg range he was more
anxious to visit the noteworthy scenes round Colenso
and Ladysmith ; so that on the Sunday he went to
All Saints Church with its chancel and transepts in
commemoration of the gallant dead. He also in-
spected Devons Post, Wagon Hill, and other places of
enduring fame.

The military defensive positions as well as the battle-
fields are marked by obelisks, and contain records of
unique interest, together with the monuments in the
town and the Intombi cemeteries. It will be remem-
bered that as an advanced military post Ladysmith
occupied a position of remarkable strategical impor-
tance on account of its situation, which commanded
three sections of the railway line. The heroic part the
defenders took during the war, when the town was
besieged for four months by the Boer forces and sub-
jected to frequent and heavy bombardment, and their
invincible courage and determination, will never be
forgotten. Nothing more gallant is told in the annals
of war.

Natal has great variety of scenery and several
differing cHmates, in the warm low-lying valleys,
breezy uplands, and lofty mountains respectively.
The valley of the Tugela River contains numerous
charming spots, and the fine hills, which branch out
in lofty spurs, are broken here and there by perpen-
dicular cliffs many hundreds of feet deep. The valleys
are clothed with luxuriant verdure, whilst beautiful
creepers climb among the rocks, hanging in festoons of
crimson and yellow, thus forming an effective contrast
to the dark green foliage of the tree-clad slopes.

98 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

It is a great change to travel from the coast, with the
rich tropical vegetation, to the Drakensberg range,
with the hills studded with rocky outcrops and the
well-wooded river-banks below, and then to pass on
to the bare and boundless expanse of the veld.

At Johannesburg, the next stopping-place, Forbes
Julian and his wife had the pleasure of seeing his
brother Charles. They had been concerned to hear
on landing that the health of the latter had recently
been very precarious ; but he had since rallied, and
his doctor took a more favourable view of his progress
at this time. As he was unequal to going to the
meetings, they were the guests of Mr. and Mrs.
Lavenstein, but the two brothers met daily during the
Association week.

On Monday, August 28th, an evening reception was
attended at the Wanderers' Club, which afforded the
travellers an opportunity of becoming acquainted with
their generous entertainers. Received everywhere in
South Africa with hearty hospitality, they were lavishly
entertained throughout the week at Johannesburg.

On Tuesday, August 29th, the business of the Associa-
tion recommenced with the reading of addresses and
papers. At Section B (Chemistry), which assembled
at the Transvaal Technical Institute, the proceedings
opened with the masterly address of the President,
Dr. Beilby. This was followed by a paper from Forbes
Julian entitled " How Oxygen Assists and Retards the
Dissolution of Gold in Cyanide Solutions." In the
discussion which followed, the chairman (Dr. Beilby),
Dr. Divers, Professor Henderson, and others took part.
The paper aroused much attention in the mining
circles of Johannesburg, where practical science is so
greatly in evidence and so highly valued, metallurgy,
chemistry, and engineering alike assisting to develop
the mining industry.

>

I

BRITISH ASSOCIATION IN S. AFRICA 99

In an account of the work of the Chemical Section
of the British Association in South Africa, given in
Nature for October 26th, 1905, it is stated:

... A very active part in the work of the Section was taken
by South African chemists, and almost without exception
the reading of a paper was followed by an animated and
interesting discussion. ...

... At Johannesburg the proceedings of the Section were
inaugurated by the address of the President, which was of
quite exceptional interest. It was followed by a paper by
Mr. H. F. Julian, in which an investigation of the part played
by oxygen in the dissolution of gold by cyanide solutions was
described. The author arrived at the conclusion that free
oxygen plays no primary part in the reaction, any assistance
given being of a secondary nature, and that, as a matter of
fact, it exerts a retarding influence. According to his
experiments, while the balance indicates that free oxygen is
of material assistance, the galvanometer points to its presence
hindering the dissolution of the gold ; the cause of the
disagreement between the instruments he attributes to the
formation of local voltaic circuits.

The paper was printed in extenso with other
selected papers, which were published specially by the
South African Association. An abstract of it also
appeared in the British Association Report for 1905.

Numerous old friends welcomed him back to the
city, which he was glad to revisit after an absence of

ISO many years, being eager to note the changes that
had taken place during the stirring events of the past
decade. The energy, enterprise, and intelligence of
the population of Johannesburg make it a most
remarkable city to visit, the mental atmosphere being
extremely stimulating.
Amongst those who took an active part in the meet-
ings was Lord Selborne (Governor of the Transvaal
and Orange River Colony), who welcomed the members

100 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

the afternoon of the 29th. That evening Professor
Ayrton gave a brilliant lecture at St. Mary's Hall on
" The Distribution of Powder." Wednesday, the 30th,
v^^as again spent in hearing papers and discussions,
and in the evening Professor Darwin delivered the
concluding part of his address, the first part having
been given at Cape Tow^n.

An expedition to Pretoria made on Thursday,
August 31st, afforded many of the members an oppor-
tunity of seeing the famous Premier Diamond Mine ;
but as Forbes Julian v^as arranging to visit it later, he
devoted the day to shov^ing his w^ife various public
buildings in the former Boer capital, the Museum and
the Zoological Gardens, as well as the Government
Departments, specially claiming their attention. The
members were entertained at luncheon at the three
principal hotels, and Sir Arthur Lawley, Lieutenant-
Governor of the Transvaal, afterwards received them
at Government House.

About a month later the second visit was made to
Pretoria, and on that occasion there was sufficient
time to see the city thoroughly and go over the
Raadzaal, the Law Courts, President Kruger's house,
and the church where he used to offer his devotions.
At the cemetery the graves of many British soldiers
were seen, including that of a grandson of Queen
Victoria (a son of Princess Christian), all these resting-
places of our brave warriors being tenderly cared for
by the members of the Loyal Women's Guild.

The city is situated in a beautiful valley encircled
by hills, the healthy climate and agreeable surroundings
giving assurance of a prosperous future for the pleasant
capital of the Transvaal.

On Friday, September ist, an excursion for a few of
the members was planned by special train to visit
Vereeniging at the invitation of Messrs. Lewis and

BRITISH ASSOCIATION IN S. AFRICA loi

Marks. The latter was a brother-in-law of their host,
Mr. Lavenstein, and Mr. Marks kindly drove the
present writer to visit the plantations, orchards, and
farms of the Vereeniging Estate, whilst Forbes Julian
went with others who were inspecting the collieries
and brick and tile works. In the evening they joined
the rest of the party on the British Association trains,
and then proceeded to Bloemfontein.

The tiny town of Vereeniging is situated on the
Vaal River at the point where the railway line enters
the Transvaal. It derives its chief importance from
having been the place where the Articles of Peace
were agreed upon by Lord Kitchener and the Boer
leaders. The Vereeniging Estate is situated partly
in the Transvaal and partly in the Orange Free State.
The district is noteworthy to geologists, for there is
abundant evidence of glacial action in the conglomerate
which forms the base of the coal beds. Striated
boulders and erratics are plentiful, and root-markings
are to be seen at right angles to the bedding planes.
The fossil plant remains of this district are worthy of
attention, and also the stone implements found on the
banks of the Vaal River, which (through the kindness
of Mr. Leslie) were shown to the visitors.

The next stay was in the Orange Free State,
Sannah's Post and Tweespruit being visited, as well
as Bloemfontein, the capital. Here Bishop Chandler
welcomed them with much kindness ; and a garden
party was given at the Residency. The Raadzaal,
National Museum, and other important institutions
were also inspected. The cathedral is small, but
appears to be well attended. As a rule Churchmanship
is High in South Africa ; the bishops and clergy are
active workers, and have evidently been appointed not
by favour but by merit.

The Orange Free State is essentially a pastoral

102 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

district, and seems progressing in a satisfactory manner.
The colony consists of an immense tableland, with an
area of 50,000 square miles. Although the river-banks
are wooded, few trees are to be seen in the intervening
country, with the exception of those surrounding the
widely scattered farms. In the early part of the
nineteenth century the land was covered with game,
but now many species have unfortunately disappeared.
Blesbok and the graceful springbok are still to be seen,
but the few remaining herds of hartebeest and wilde-
beest have to be strictly preserved. Diamonds, gold,
iron, copper, coal, and petroleum are found in varying
amounts in different parts of the Colony, although the
proximity of Kimberley and the Rand mines has
hitherto tended to overshadow this mineral wealth.

A short time was spent at Kimberley, and the
thoughts -of the travellers naturally dwelt much on
the heroism shown during the horrors of the protracted
siege. The city was reached on September 5th. Here
the diamond mines were inspected, and the fine
specimens at the De Beers' office were shown to the
visitors. A lecture given at the Town Hall in the
evening by Sir William Crookes on *' Diamonds "
attracted a crowded audience, comprising scientists
of various departments and a large sprinkling of the
general public. As many people were unable to
obtain admission, he repeated the discourse, with its
clear statements and happy illustrations, on the follow-
ing afternoon.

Several receptions were held at Kimberley, one being
given by the Loyal Women's Guild. Much interest
was taken both here and at Johannesburg in the Kaffir
and Chinese compounds, which were found to be well
built and maintained, the labourers being properly
looked after in sickness or accident. Their food and
water supply appeared very good, and Sir Lauder

BRITISH ASSOCIATION IN S. AFRICA 103

Brunton, Dr. Wiseman, Dr. Gaskell, and other medical
men (who were with the Association party) were
impressed by the general excellence of the arrange-
ments made for the comfort of the workers. The
Chinese, however, were not free labourers, but were
indentured for specific duties for a specific time.
They appeared fairly honest, hard-working, and frugal,
and although some outrages no doubt occurred, this
was to be expected when so large a body of rough
working-men were kept under severe restraint in a
strange country. In England the Chinese question
was so warmly debated and made so entirely into a
political matter that the heated discussions which took
place must be well remembered by everyone, and any
further reference to the matter is unnecessary.

The tour of the British Association was concluded
by visits made on the four special trains via Mafeking
to Buluwayo and the Victoria Falls, which Forbes
Julian had been amongst the first few white men
to visit, as already described. It was stated that he
was the only member of the Association who had
previously been there.

The opening of the bridge over the Zambesi River
by the President, Professor George Darwin, on
September 12th, was a memorable occasion not only as
marking the completion of a triumph of engineering
skill, but also on account of its importance strategically.

Forbes Julian and his wife spent the rest of Septem-
ber with his brother Charles at Johannesburg. They
also visited Mr. Edgar Smart on the East Rand,
and Mr. and Mrs. Rintoul at Turifontein. As their

L hostess belonged to a Boer family, they had the
opportunity of meeting her brother. Commandant
Mostert, of General Cronje's staff, and the two Misses
Joubert, who were also guests at Turffontein.
The consideration shown by General Joubert for

104 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

the British sick and wounded will always be gratefully
remembered. His charming nieces spoke of the dis-
tress the opening of the war had caused him in the
short time before his death, which came so speedily
after the outbreak of hostilities as the result of severe
labours and extreme anxiety. General Botha was
another family friend of Mrs. Rintoul, and a fellow-
traveller with Forbes Julian during a journey from
Johannesburg to Pretoria.

Nothing could exceed the kindness of Mr. and Mrs.
Rintoul or the hearty welcome of Mr. Edgar Smart,
and it naturally afforded Forbes Julian great gratifica-
tion to meet these old friends and discuss with his
colleague the results of those investigations they both
found so attractive and at which they had worked
together so long and earnestly. When inviting the
Julians Mr. Smart wrote : " I hope you will be able
to stay for a few weeks, if you can stand a sort of loca-
tion. A bachelor's menage is, of course, somewhat
lacking in many of the adjuncts of civilization ; but I
can guarantee you a chair each, a fire, table, carpet,
and some pictures."

Before leaving the Transvaal an expedition was
made to Krugersdorp, in October. The travellers saw
the beautiful waterfalls in the neighbourhood, visiting
also the Strubens' farm and the scene of the Jameson
Raid, and making other excursions in the district,
together with long drives on the veld. At Krugersdorp
they inspected the Paardekaal Monument, which
commemorates the defeat by the Boers of the cele-
brated Zulu chief Dingaan. The town is situated on
the northern slopes of the Witwatersrand, and has a
fine view of the lofty Magaliesberg mountain range.
Time was also found for meetings with many old
friends and for visiting several mines ; so that Forbes
Julian was enabled to gather much valuable informa-

BRITISH ASSOCIATION IN S. AFRICA 105

tion as to recent work that had been undertaken, and
to learn a great deal concerning researches and experi-
ments that had been carried out in metallurgical and
mining matters since his earlier visits.

The journey to the coast was made by way of
Bloemfontein, Norval's Point, De Aar, and Matjes-
fontein. Passing at first through the rolling grassy
plains of the Transvaal and Orange Free State, the
scenery is somewhat monotonous ; the bridge over the
Orange River at NorvaPs Point marks the boundary
between the Orange Free State and Cape Colony,
and the district of the Great Karroo (a plateau of one
thousand to two thousand feet in height) is exceedingly
barren and desolate.

However, as soon as the railway route begins
descending through the Hex River Pass the scenery
becomes very beautiful. From the summit at
Triangle (a height of more than three thousand feet),
fine views are obtained of the valleys below, and the
line can be seen circling for miles round the foot of the
mountain. At Worcester, Wellington, and Paarl vine
culture is carried on, the foliage and flowers also being
rich and varied.

At Cape Town a pleasant visit was paid to Sir
David Gill at the Observatory. The weather in the
latter part of October was much warmer than it had
been when they landed early in August ; so they were
thus enabled to enjoy the fine scenery of Table Moun-
tain more fully than on the previous visit, as well as
to see the varieties of heath and the beautiful lilies
which grow as plentifully as weeds on the slopes of the
^H mountain.
H| Sailing for England by the Dunluce Castle^ they had

^B nearly a month at sea. They decided to take the
^m longer route home, wishing to spend a day at St.
^B Helena, on account of its associations with Napoleon.

L

io6 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

His residence at Longwood during the latter part of
his life and his burial in the island invest this rock
of the ocean with deep historic interest, although
Napoleon's body now rests beneath the gilded dome
of the Invalides. Other reminiscences were connected
with one of the Boer commandants who had been a
prisoner of war at St. Helena and whom the travellers
had recently met in the Transvaal, when he had
related to them many of his experiences.

The birthday of His Majesty King Edward,
November 9th, occurring whilst they were at sea, some
young English officers returning home on leave avowed
their intention of " standing no nonsense " and making
a German baron on board drink the King's health at
dinner. Fearing that this proposition might be put
in an ungracious manner, Forbes Julian, who was at
the same table with the German, in addition to drinking
his own Sovereign's health, bowed to the baron, and
said, " I drink also to the health of the Emperor of
Germany, and recall with much pleasure the kindness
shown to me by his subjects in Germany." " And I
drink the health of King Edward," said the baron in
response ; but he added to the present writer : " As
I think that my Emperor and your King are not very
good friends at present, I should not have done so if
your husband had not also proposed and honoured the
toast to my Emperor." The incident therefore passed
off happily, but the young officers were naturally some-
what disappointed at the collapse of their scheme for
creating a piquant situation.

The steamer also stayed for a short time at Ascen-
sion, and this added to the variety of the voyage.
Dr. Holbeach, the Bishop of St. Helena, was visiting
this other island of his diocese, and was the only
passenger who remained at this lonely outlying station
of the Empire. His congenial companionship was

BRITISH ASSOCIATION IN S. AFRICA 107

much missed on board. The steamer anchored at
midday, and during the afternoon, after the dispatch
of the mails, passed on her course to the Canary Islands.
Here a day was spent before proceeding to England,
and towards the end of the year the travellers landed
at Southampton. The outward voyage to the Cape
and Durban and the return voyage to England had
been thoroughly enjoyed. The time spent in the
Transvaal had augmented Forbes Julian's knowledge
of that science which he loved so well, and enabled
him to return with increased experience to his scientific
and Hterary work ; whilst the opportunity of revisiting
scenes well remembered and of introducing his wife
to his brother and to old mining friends, and showing
her also many beautiful places in Cape Colony and
Natal, had afforded him much pleasure. Throughout
the tour he had been traversing ground already well
known, and it was ' therefore doubly delightful to
revisit these places again after the lapse of so many
years, and to revisit them with his wife. The kindness
shown by their colonial hosts and the friendships with
men of science made on the steamers and special trains
also added greatly to the agreeable recollections of an
eventful journey, which included many memorable
sights and scenes.

In a letter written immediately after landing he
briefly describes the passage home :

We had a very pleasant voyage on the Dunluce Castle ; it
was slightly rough, about half a gale, for two days after leaving
Cape Town, and it was again rough after leaving Las Palmas,
but the remainder of the voyage was very smooth, the bay
and channel being as placid as a lake. We had some hours'
stay at St. Helena. . . . We arrived at Ascension at midday,
sailing right round the island. It is a naval station, and
occupied by about fifty bluejackets and a few officers. Pas-
sengers are only able to land by special permission. . . .
We had a whole day at Las Palmas. . . . On arriving at

io8 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

Southampton we were met with a fog, and since then it has
done nothing but rain. We greatly miss the bright African
sun.

In another letter to a friend, written about the same
time, some allusion is made to the Association tour :

My wife and I have recently returned from South Africa,
where we have been with the British Association. Altogether
about four hundred members went from England, and were
treated right royally by everyone. The party probably con-
tained the largest number of eminent scientists who have
left the British Isles together at any one time. The voyage
was made exceptionally pleasant by intimate association with
so many leaders in science. . . . Some of the papers read at
Cape Town and Johannesburg were unusually interesting to
me. It has been decided to publish several of them in
extenso. ... I read a paper on " How Oxygen Assists and
Retards the Dissolution of Gold in Cyanide Solutions."
Several important lectures were delivered ; that by Professor
Ayrton at Johannesburg on " The Distribution of Power "
was eminently successful, and the lecture by Sir WiUiam
Crookes on " Diamonds " at Kimberley was marvellous, every
experiment going off without a hitch. . . . Johannesburg
has grown out of all recognition, many of the buildings resem-
bling those of an American city. There are far more Jews
there now than formerly. I went over to the Premier Mine
with David Rintoul, and I spent some time on the Rand,
and also went down to the Old Rand Central Works. . . .
The dust is as bad as ever and the climate as glorious.

Amongst other letters of welcome received on landing
was the following from Professor Harley :

Athen^um Club,

London.

Many thanks for your kind letters from Cape Town and

Johannesburg, with accounts of your travels and the generous

treatment received. Everything turned out from first to

last in a way that seems like a dream of romance. The

BRITISH ASSOCIATION IN S. AFRICA 109

descriptions of the long journeys and impressions of Cape
Town, Durban, Pretoria, Bloemfontein, Kimberley, &c.,
are most interesting, with the accounts of the extremes of
temperature and the tremendous deserts of arid sand, barren
and bare beyond all conception. What will become of their
present magnificence when the gold and diamonds are worked
out ? . . .

Sir David Gill, whose labours, kindness, and tact
had been so instrumental in contributing to the
successful character of the meeting, thus briefly alluded
some time later to the good results of this South
African expedition (Presidential Address to the British
Association at Leicester, 1907) :

Having only recently come from the Cape, I wish to take
this opportunity of saying that this Southern visit of the
Association has, in my opinion, been productive of much good ;
wider interest in science has been created amongst colonists,
juster estimates of the country and its problems have been
formed on the part of the visitors, and personal friendships
and interchange of ideas between thinking men in South
Africa and at home have arisen which cannot fail to have a
beneficial influence on the social, political, and scientific
relations between these colonies and the mother country.

CHAPTER XI
THE UNITED STATES REVISITED

THE return to Torquay in December was
saddened by the intelligence of the death of
Charles Julian, in whose health there had been
apparently great improvement before his brother left
South Africa, so that the news which reached England
by cable came as a great grief, as past fond memories
of their childhood crowded on his mind. The begin-
ning of the year 1906 found Forbes Julian in London
with his wife, and turning to the fresh work which
lay before him, for his publishers, Messrs. Charles
Griffin and Co., were anxious to bring out a second
edition of the book on Cyaniding by Mr. Smart and
himself. This necessitated much work in the metro-
polis, while the fresh facts obtained in South Africa
enabled him to write with the authority of one who
had seen for himself, not of one who merely quotes from
others ; and the recent time spent on the Rand with
Mr. Smart helped to keep him and his fellow- worker in
touch for successfully collaborating their undertaking.
His life was cast at a period of great importance in
metallurgy, and every year helped to broaden the base
on which the science was being built up.

Amongst those whom he consulted as to fresh matters
of interest in connection with the book were Mr.
E. G. Banks, Mr. Hamilton, Mr. Merrill, and Mr.
J. R. Williams.

On January iSth, 1906, he wrote to Mr. Merrill as
follows :

no

THE UNITED STATES REVISITED in

I have recently returned from South Africa after a very-
interesting tour over the mining districts, where I have acquired
some useful information in connection with cyaniding. The
size of the plants has increased considerably since my former
visit and the cost of treatment has been somewhat reduced.
. . . There is now a great movement for fine crushing, owing
to the fact that the, cost of treating slimes has fallen below
that of sands treatment, but there is much still to be done
before the advantages of this change can be established beyond
doubt. ...

Before I left for Africa, some seven months ago, my pub-
lishers informed me that the first edition of " Cyaniding, &c.,"
was exhausted, and asked me to prepare a second edition. I
have that now in hand, and am pushing on with it as fast as
time will allow. I should be much pleased to hear from you
such particulars of the important work you have been doing
as you may wish to submit for publication under your name
as the authority.

Writing to Mr. Hamilton during January 1906, he
says :

My wife and I have been travelling with the British Associa-
tion, and I spent a considerable time on the Rand observing
the changes on the mines, particularly in connection with
cyanide. Some of the plants are exceedingly large and sub-
stantially built, but there is not much new in the sands treat-
ment. In the slimes treatment things have been developing
until the costs have been reduced materially below that of the
sands treatment. ... I have managed to collect some valuable
information for the second edition of our book, which is now
in preparation. If you have recorded any fresh work . . ,
I shall be very pleased to hear of it as soon as convenient, or
of any matters of interest in connection with cyaniding that
have come under your notice. . . .

The engrossing character of the work may be
gathered from one of his letters to Mr. Smart, to whom
he wrote about this time :

I am at present plunged in the midst of revising the book,
and from the enormous amount of new matter relating to

112 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

cyaniding that has appeared during the last two years, the
revising and bringing up to date promises to be nearly as great
a task as writing the original. We shall have to expunge a
great deal of the book, and shorten the longer articles in order
to keep the size down. The chapter on costs of working ought,
I think, to be reduced to mere summaries, so as to use the
space with more interesting data. ... I shall be able to
produce a short chapter on roasting. ... I have already in
the rough about forty thousand words which will require
a good deal of boiling down.

In May an interesting evening was spent at the
annual dinner of the Society of Authors, when excel-
lent speeches were contributed by Lord Curzon, Mr.
Bernard Shaw, and Mr. Anthony Hope, there being
the additional pleasure of meeting a large circle of
friends at the banquet.

June was passed at Torquay, and in July Forbes
Julian returned to London, having accepted the post
offered him by his old friend Mr. Charles Butters of
consulting engineer to his company. With continued
health and strength, his intellectual vigour was
gradually turning back into the former channels, and
as far as professional labours were concerned this
responsible post was destined to be his work for the
next six years, until the close of his life, since it was
while going abroad in the service of the company, at
the urgent request of Mr. Charles Butters, that he
met his death on the titanic.

Although associated ^mxh. the firm on terms that
should leave time for his ovm labours, he was now
more tied to routine work and had to be frequently
in London conducting technical matters for the com-
pany with his usual patient care. Fortunately, he had
almost completed the revision and extra work entailed
by the second edition of his book on Cyaniding, which
appeared early in the following year, 1907.

Although the strong tide of life and work during

THE UNITED STATES REVISITED 113

the winter kept him much in the metropolis, yet he
frequently returned to Torquay, as he greatly pre-
ferred the country to being altogether in town ; so
that the engagements of London did not dispossess
other interests at home.

In January Dr. Cosmo Lang, Bishop of Stepney
(the present Archbishop of York), visited Torquay to
plead for assistance for the hard-working toilers of
the south and east end of London. Such visits had
previously been paid by him in former years, and in this
undertaking the Julians had long taken a keen interest,
and had been to hear the Bishop's eloquent speeches
and sermons in Torquay ; they had also met him in
town. The metallurgist's technical studies never
absorbed all his energies, and he heartily sympathized
in social work and gladly assisted whenever it lay in
his power, for he was the last to rejoice in the happiness
of his own home without thought of what lay beyond.

In the early part of the year 1907 the death occurred
of his brother-in-law. Captain Louis Maxwell, the
husband of his wife's elder sister. The two men had
many interests in common and were friends in the
true sense of the word, and this loss was a great sorrow
to him. Major -General Patrick Maxwell, B.S.C., the
Captain's father, had passed away at Bath only a few
months previously.

Easter, which fell early this year, was spent at
Torquay, but Forbes Julian and his wife returned to
London for the remainder of the spring. Brief visits
to Lady Burdon-Sanderson, at Oxford, and to Farnham
Castle, on the occasion of a party given by Bishop and
Mrs. Ryle, were paid during the summer, the beautiful
grounds and the famous library and historic chapel at
Farnham being inspected with much pleasure ; and
also the well-remembered colleges at Oxford.

Closely engaged in metallurgical inquiries and also

K

114 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

occupied with other professional matters in London
during the rest of the season, the return to Devonshire
was not made until the end of July, when the County
Association, which assembled at Axminster, was
attended, the President this year being Dr. Robertson,
bishop of the diocese, whose scholarly address was
followed with much interest.

The meeting of the British Association was held at
Leicester early in August, when Sir David Gill was
President, and threw much heartiness and brightness
as well as wisdom into his happy chairmanship. Being
now a member of the General Committee as well as
of the committee of the Chemical Section, Forbes
Julian was able to take some part in the work of the
Association. A noteworthy feature at Leicester was
a joint discussion between the Chemical and Engineer-
ing Sections on " Explosion Temperatures." Papers
at the Physical Science Section given by Sir William
Ramsay, Sir Oliver Lodge, and Professor Larmor also
engaged his attention, for at many points physics and
chemistry meet and blend, and the most conspicuous
developments of the latter science during recent years
have been on the physical side, and have produced
most fruitful results. His mind was in many ways
innovating and progressive, and he was always ready
to entertain new ideas ; but his conclusions were the
reverse of hasty, and he was ever on the alert lest he
should fall into error either in observation or inference.

Leaving Leicester for London immediately after the
dispersion of the gathering, he wrote to his wife
concerning the large amount of work that lay before
him, saying : "I have been very closely occupied,
and can see a great deal of work looming in the near
future." Early in September he returned home for
a short time, when some friends were invited to meet
Lieutenant (now Sir) Ernest Shackleton, who was

THE UNITED STATES REVISITED 115

residing in Devonshire before starting on his South
Polar expedition. Many matters concerning the
expected enterprise were discussed with the intrepid
explorer who was leaving England to imperil his life
in this endeavour to extend our geographical know-
ledge and plant the British flag in untrodden regions
near the Pole.

Other visitors at Torquay this month were Canon
and Mrs. Austin, from Jamaica. They gave graphic
accounts of the havoc wrought by the earthquake
there and the vridespread distress occasioned in con-
sequence. The Canon came to England to collect
funds for the sufferers. The meeting held at the
Pengelly Hall aroused much sympathy, the appeal
leading to hearty and generous support. Many further
details of the tragedy were also related during their
short visit at " Redholme," twelve hundred persons
having been killed at Kingston and many thousands
injured in the wrecked and ruined city.

At this time Forbes Julian was looking forward to
spending the autumn and winter in London and
Torquay, but an unexpected cable from America
altered all his plans. The message he received was
from Mr. Charles Butters, inviting him to go to New
York on professional matters connected with their
" Patent Vacuum Filters."

The Butters filter is a highly specialized appliance
for separating solutions of cyanide of gold from the
finely divided and clayey " slimes " which are produced
in considerable quantity during the crushing and
cyanidation of gold ores. It is a development of the
" leaf " form of filter, and in essentials consists of a
series of hollow frames, the outer surfaces of which

kare formed of filter cloth, suitably supported, whilst
their interior spaces are connected up to a vacuum
main.
I

ii6 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

A number of these units are immersed in the slime-
pulp and the vacuum applied. This sucks the gold-
bearing solution through the filter cloths into the
hollow interiors (and thus removes it for the sub-
sequent recovery of its dissolved gold by precipitation),
whilst the earthy slimes are retained in the form of a
gradually accumulating cake upon the outer surfaces
of the filter cloth.

When a sufficient cake-thickness has been attained
and the residual gold solution therein has been
washed out by water, the barren material is discharged
from the filter-cloth surfaces by replacing the vacuum
by a positive air-pressure. The clean filter is now
ready to deal with another charge of gold-bearing

Simple as the device may appear from this outline
description, its great practical success has only resulted
from a long series of developments by the metallurgists
of Mr. Charles Butters' staff, in connection with
operators on other goldfields.

The details of the apparatus are many and complex,
and have required years of painstaking work at the
hands of skilled experimentalists.

The journey was hastily arranged, as it was only in
the middle of September that Mr. Butters cabled from
America to Forbes Julian begging him to come out
to New York immediately. As his wife decided to
accompany him, she left Torquay at once and joined
him in London en route for Southampton, having only
a couple of days in which to prepare for the voyage
and for a sojourn abroad that lasted four months.

As none of the few letters written by Forbes Julian
at this period have been preserved, the account of
their tour has been compiled from the journals kept
at the time by Hester Julian, which record notices of
some of the institutions inspected in New York and

THE UNITED STATES REVISITED 117

the acquaintances made, together with descriptions
of visits to other American cities during the brief
interludes of his scientific work. The account is given
almost as v^itten in the diary with only a few addi-
tions, and has therefore been left in the first person.

Compiled from Mrs. Forbes Julian's Journals

" My husband and I left Southampton in September
1907, and as the * Fall ' is the period when large
numbers of Americans are returning from their tours
in Europe, we discovered on getting on board our
steamer, the Saint Louts, of the American Line, that we
were the only European passengers in the saloon, all
the others being apparently Americans, with the
exception of a high-caste Hindu gentleman and his
wdfe, with whom we often conversed, to the great

disgust of our friend, Mr. , a Southerner, who

more than once remonstrated politely but firmly on
our ' demeaning ' ourselves by talking to ' those
coloured people.'

" We had a very comfortable cabin with a private
bath-room attached, this being the state-room which
Li Hung Chang had occupied during his memorable
voyage on the Saint Louis some years before.

" My husband and I, being good sailors, were much
on deck, and we soon made the acquaintance of several
extremely pleasant American fellow-passengers.

" After having a stormy voyage, the weather became
beautiful the day we landed, and we received a most
favourable impression of the American coast, every-
thing looking brilliant and being bathed in bright
sunshine. Our American friends pointed out the
Brooklyn Bridge (connecting Brooklyn with New York,
the largest suspension bridge in the world), the statue
of Liberty, the skyscrapers, and other prominent

118 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

objects which are especially striking when seen from
the water.

" After landing and settling down at our hotel we
had much to see, when the exigencies of professional
work allowed my husband to accompany me.

"There are numerous noteworthy institutions and
public buildings in New York which particularly
attracted us. The Natural History Museum is full
of interest, the collections being carefully and methodi-
cally arranged and catalogued ; the geological collec-
tion, which we especially studied, being admirably
grouped in a scientific manner that deserves the highest
praise. The Museum of Art is another imposing
building and possesses an extremely fine collection of
beautiful pictures, the galleries devoted to sculpture,
architecture, and antiquities being also of a high order
of merit.

" At the Lenox Library there was a fine collection
of early Bibles and other rare incunabula, and some
valuable missals, including a copy of the Sarum Missal,
and a large collection of autograph letters of exceptional
interest.

" We visited all these institutions on several occa-
sions, spending many hours at each ; but saw very
few people at the Natural History Museum, fewer
still at the Museum of Art, and hardly any visitors at
all at the Lenox Library, where the attentive custodian
seemed so delighted by our enthusiasm for the exhibits
under his charge that he begged us quite pathetically
to visit New York again soon. All these places were
open free to the public and centrally situated, so that
the small attendance surprised us, for the collections
might be expected to attract the casual passer-by as
well as the serious student.

" Amongst other buildings inspected may be men-
tioned the Old and New Colleges, Barnard College,

THE UNITED STATES REVISITED 119

the Normal College, and the fine library of the
Columbia University. We visited several of the
principal churches in New York, the older ones,
St. Mark's and St. Paul's, being the more interesting.
At the latter we were shown the pews of Washington
and of the brave but unfortunate Major Andre. We
also attended the Episcopalian cathedral of St. John
the Divine, where the services were held in the crypt
as the cathedral will not be completed for some time.
Grace Church and the small church of the Transfigura-
tion are both well worth visiting, and also the churches
of the Heavenly Rest, of the Ascension and Incarna-
tion, which are all handsome and well-built modern
structures. Trinity, which is near Wall Street in the
heart of the business of the city, has been rebuilt, but
the churchyard contains several graves of early colonials.
" The funds for building the Roman Catholic
cathedral dedicated to St. Patrick, in Fifth Avenue,
were raised chiefly through the contributions of the
Irish residing in New York, many of them only poor
chambermaids and waiters at the various hotels. It
is a beautiful edifice and does honour to their religious
enthusiasm. The Baptists, Congregationalists, Presby-
terians, Methodists, and other religious bodies have
also numerous imposing places of worship ; and at the
Russian and Greek Orthodox churches we saw some
good eikons. We went also to the chief synagogue.
One afternoon my husband and I visited General
Grant's tomb, which is situated on the beautiful
Riverside Drive, overlooking the Hudson. I was
interested in recalling the fact that the General had
^m visited Torquay and that my parents had been invited
^B to meet him.

^H " We landed just in time for the full glory of the

^B autumn tints, which are so particularly rich and
^H beautiful in North America, the splendid colouring of

L

120 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

the foliage in the closing year showing every shade
from brightest crimson to mellow brown and golden
orange. We much enjoyed the drives by the Hudson
River and the walks in the Central Park and in Bronx
Park, and at the latter visited the excellent Botanical
Gardens. The conservatories contain plants from all
parts of the world, the arrangement and classification
being extremely good. The Zoological Gardens at
the Bronx Park also aroused our enthusiasm.^

" We had never seen animals in confinement looking
better cared for nor in more healthy conditions. The
outdoor ranges for mammals, the reptile houses, and
the vast flying-cages for birds are all wonderfully well
arranged ; and the surroundings are so charming that
these gardens form a most attractive resort for the
zoologist or the botanist. On other occasions we
visited Prospect Park at Brooklyn, which is beautifully
laid out, and Van Cortlandt Park with its fine woods
and historic mansion built in 1748, used at one time
by General Washington as his headquarters ; this
forms a pleasant excursion from the city, being only a
few miles distant.

" Taken as a whole, New York is not attractive
architecturally; the huge skyscrapers blot out the
sunlight and air so essential to health and spirits,
whilst the many narrow streets and the unsightly
Elevated Railway detract from its general appearance.
We were informed that the Singer Building of forty-
five stories was the highest structure at that time, but
buildings of even greater elevation have since been
erected.

" The noise of the surface-cars rumbling up and
down the streets and the passing of trains on the
Elevated Railway add to the uproar and general dis-

^ These gardens are referred to in greater detail in the
letter of Forbes Julian given on p. 1&3.

THE UNITED STATES REVISITED 121

comfort ; while the bustling steamers on the ferries
with their hooting sirens quite bewilder the European
visitor on first landing.

*' My husband, having retained a vivid recollection
of the noise in New York on his previous visit there,
had endeavoured to prepare me for it ; but it must be
experienced to be realized. London, even in such
busy thoroughfares as the Marble Arch, Charing Cross,
or the Bank, seems a quiet city in comparison, and the
noise cannot be equalled in Paris, Berlin, Vienna, or
any of the great European capitals.

" The surface-cars are generally full to overflowing,
and on one occasion when getting out of this con-
veyance, crowded with * strap-hangers,' I had great
difficulty in passing some of the passengers, my place
having been in the far corner. My husband, who was
standing near the door (having given his seat to a
lady), advanced to help me, and I was accidentally
pushed against a man who was also alighting. Naturally
I at once apologized, but he looked at me with surprise,
for I had not yet learnt that to express regret was
considered waste of time in the busy streets of New
York, where little sympathy seems shown for fanciful
notions of politeness. As no man in America is rude
to a woman (at least, I have never met one who was),
he turned on my husband instead, and as we reached
the side path shouted out : * Say, Britisher, I guess
you're a man not much used to travelling.' I presume
he thought he was letting us off too easily, so sent this
remark after us, but as my husband at that time had
considerably over a hundred thousand miles to his
credit the parting shot fell harmlessly wide of the
mark.

" The express lifts or ' elevators,' as they are called,
in the different hotels and offices rush up past the
first ten or fifteen floors without stopping ; whilst a

122 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

slower lift, called the ' local elevator,' stops at each
floor. They seem like express and local stopping trains.

" * Don't take that elevator, you'll be all day getting
to the tenth floor,' v^e w^ere told on stepping into the
slov^er one at our hotel when visiting friends on the
tenth floor.

" Apparently everyone in New York is in a hurry,
and the power of doing a thing quickly is greatly
prized, without much attention as to the imperfections
of the performance.

" Few people sit down to write letters — that would
be considered too dilatory a proceeding ; yet they
will waste far more time than it takes to write several
notes waiting in queues at crowded hotels like the
Plaza or the Waldorf-Astoria to get ' on to the tele-
phone ' and communicate with their friends. There
are telephones in all the hotel bedrooms, both for
messages in the hotel and for long distances, and many
people in New York (on account of the great difflculty
in getting servants) live permanently in hotels, and
can thus speak from their own rooms quite comfort-
ably ; but as they never seem to feel at home unless
they are going out, they are frequently living at one
hotel, lunching at a second, and dining at a third, so it
often happens that they wish to telephone from their
temporary abode.

" After looking at rooms in several hotels, including
the Waldorf, the Belmont, the Murray Hill, the
Majestic, the Plaza, and the Holland House, we were
finally attracted by the Netherlands Hotel, which
looks over the Central Park and is situated in Fifth
Avenue, where neither surface-cars nor elevated rail-
ways are allowed, so that it is comparatively quiet.
We stayed several weeks there. It is under the same
management as the Waldorf-Astoria, is well appointed,
and most comfortable in every way.

THE UNITED STATES REVISITED 123

" From the first we met with great kindness, not
only in New York but everywhere in the States, and
no visitors coming from the Old World could have
received a heartier or more cordial welcome, the
memory of many pleasant hours spent with American
friends being amongst the most agreeable recollections
of a tour which embraced much that was of exceptional
interest to us.

" As the autumn advanced we found the great heat
in the public buildings and hotels rather exhausting,
and English people are apt to take chills when the cold
weather sets in, for the rooms there are often kept at
a temperature varying from 70 to 75 degrees ; and
the contrast from this heated atmosphere when going
outside and walking in the snow in winter frequently
leads to serious results.

" The character of some of the busy traders is given
in the words of an American, one of their most dis-
tinguished men of letters, Mr. William Dean Howells,
who writes :

"They are purely commercial, and the thing that cannot
be bought and sold has, logically, no place in their life. They
applaud one another for their charities, which they measure
by the amount given rather than by the love which goes with
the giving. The widow's mite has little credit with them,
but the rich man's million has an acclaim that reverberates
through their newspapers long after the gift is made. It is
only the poor in America who do charity — by giving help
where it is needed ; the Americans are mostly too busy, if
they are at all prosperous, to give anything but money, and
the more money they give the more charitable they esteem
themselves. From time to time some man with twenty or
thirty millions gives one of them away, usually to a public
institution of some sort, where it will have no effect with the
people, who are underpaid for their work or cannot get work,
and then his deed is famed throughout the country as a thing
really beyond praise.

" Yet anyone who thinks about it must know that he never

124 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

earned the millions he kept nor the million he gave, but
somehow made them from the labours of others — that, with
all the wealth left him, he cannot miss the fortune that he
lavishes any more than if the check [cheque] which conveyed
it were a withered leaf, and not in any wise so much as an ordin-
ary working-man might feel the bestowal of a postage-stamp.

" We were sometimes amused by the references
made to the price of things by a few of the less refined
visitors at the various hotels.

" * That's my automobile. It cost fifteen thousand
dollars ' (^3000), was the remark of a lady, a total
stranger, as she pointed out her motor-car to me from
our hotel window ; and when my husband joined me,
she asked at once, * Is that your husband ? ' On my
replying in the affirmative, she said directly, * Present
me to him.' I answered that I should be happy to
do so, but did not know her name. This little diffi-
culty having been surmounted by the production of
a bag with her visiting card, the introduction took
place, when without further loss of time she pointed
out the motor-car to him, remarking, ' My automobile ;
cost fifteen thousand dollars ; it has all solid silver
fittings.' She also gave us a list of her jewellery, and
informed us of the price of several ornaments she was
wearing at the time, and whenever we met her on
several other occasions volunteered information about
her diamonds and other precious stones, with a pro-
fusion of which she was always decorated. On our
being anxious to escape the recital on one occasion,
and my husband saying that he thought it was getting
late, her daughter remarked, ' I guess I can tell you
the time,' and we then noticed that she was wearing
three watches. She kindly explained that * she was
terribly fond of watches,' and possessed seventy. At
first this boasting amused us, but afterwards it made
us long to emulate the behaviour of the deaf adder.

i

THE UNITED STATES REVISITED 125

** Finding both these ladies very good-natured when
we knew them better, we tried to interest them in the
case of a poor and deserving woman whose husband
was ill, and who was anxious to get work for herself,
to support him and her children. We mentioned that
the case was a genuine one, as we knew of it through
an American friend, Mrs. Carroll, and a German

friend. Countess von B (a cousin of Humboldt),

who was engaged in philanthropic church settlement
work in New York. We hoped we had persuaded the
millionairess to employ our poor seamstress, but I
unluckily added that when she worked for Mrs. Carroll
or myself we paid her tram fares, as she lived in a
remote and cheap part of the city. On hearing this,
the poor possessor of all this wealth (for I think she
was poor in all but her banking account) exclaimed,
* Is that so ? I call that just extortion. She'll have
no surface-car fares from me. Why no, I guess I
won't employ her.' The fares in question amounted
to ten cents, about 5^. of our money.

" Hearing that we were often out inspecting the
museums and other public buildings, this lady feared
it ' must be terribly dull going to such things,' and
offered to drive us to see some of the stores in her
celebrated automobile, and the more firmly we declined
the more fervently were we pressed to accompany her
on her shopping expeditions ' down town.' Her sur-
prise at our rashness in refusing this tempting offer
was only equalled by her astonishment at our obstinacy
in adhering to our original decision, and she kindly
allowed the idea to peep out that we were being greatly
honoured by the invitation.

'' Learning that my husband had been one of the
founders of the Royal Automobile Club in London
made her anxious to have his advice about motoring.
Of their chauffeur these two ladies lived in considerable

126 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

awe. We often saw him strolling about the hotel in
a free-and-easy manner during the day, listening to
the orchestra in the evening or conversing with
different guests. He easily persuaded them that it
would injure the car to take it ' down town ' to Wall
Street and other places where they usually went ; so
that they were forced to let him lounge about in the
hotel whilst they took the Elevated Railway from the
Sixth Avenue, on which there is only one class. Thus
in spite of their great wealth they had to endure
overcrowding and various discomforts with other
people.

" ' Why don't you tell him that he must take you
in the car ? ' asked my husband one evening when they
were complaining to us of their unpleasant mode of
transit.

" ' He's pretty sensitive, I guess, he might want to
quit,' was the reply of the mother. ' Besides, he's
real elegant, and gave me his arm and saw me into the
Elevated Railway to-day. He's a lovely man ! '

" ' He won't wish to leave when he is so comfort-
able at your expense in this hotel,' said my husband.
But she was evidently afraid to argue the matter vdth
the man.

" We found, however, that for the following day
she was determined to have the car, although they
were only going to the Plaza, an hotel recently rebuilt,
also overlooking Central Park, about one minute's walk
from our hotel. The Netherlands.

" ' Oh, momma,' said her daughter, ' we don't need
the automobile to go across there, we can walk right

in.'

" ' I guess they won't think much of us if we do,'
replied her parent.

" ' You want your friends to see the car, I sup-
pose ? ' suggested my husband.

THE UNITED STATES REVISITED 127

" ' No,' she replied frankly ; * I was thinking of the
waiters.'

" It was now my turn to be consulted.

" ' Shall we take our ladies' maid with us to the
Plaza ? ' asked the daughter.

" ' Certainly not,' I replied.

" ^ But she's asked to go, and she's mighty sensitive.
I guess she'll quit, too, unless we take her. She wants
to see the hotel, and would be terribly mortified not
to come,' was the answer.

" ' I should think she would be very much in your
way ; but, of course, you know your own affairs best,'
was all that I could feebly suggest after this reply.
And so the next day after lunch the whole party, the
two ladies and their maid, escorted by the chauffeur,
went in the motor-car in state to the Plaza.

" On their return the mother informed us that they
had gone to the hotel for afternoon tea, chiefly in the
hope of getting a glimpse of the Duchess of Marl-
borough, whom they believed to be staying there.

" ' I hope that you saw her Grace,' I replied,
endeavouring to appear more interested than I felt.

" ' Why, it wasn't anybody called Grace, but the
duchess herself whom we wanted to see. I guess it's
not worth while staying on in this aristocratic location
unless we meet some real aristocratic people, and I
just hated leaving the Holland House, where there's
always such delicious eating, and coming right away
here,' she replied in a despondent tone

*' This naive consideration of the social advantages
of the Plaza and Netherlands Hotels (adjoining Central
Park) as contrasted with the Holland House, famous
for its cuisine, but not in quite such an attractive
situation, greatly amused us, and we soon perceived
that after the task of acquiring wealth (the new
* Whole Duty of Man ' to some people in New York)

128 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

has been successfully accomplished, the pursuit of
social success becomes an all-engrossing occupation.

" The short walk from the Fifth Avenue, with its
Millionaires' Club and the many magnificent man-
sions of the wealthy, to the squalid wretchedness of
Second or Third Avenue presents several peculiarly
sharp contrasts. We visited some of the poorer parts

of the city with Countess von B , including the

district where she was working. A well-known divine
has ably described these social surroundings when he
says :

" We recognize the horrible conditions of life in which great
masses of the people live ; we see how the quickening of the
pulse of commerce and the economic life by steam and elec-
tricity has only intensified the powers that grind down and
crush all who are near the bottom until, as men brutally said,
there was only room left at the top. We see how labour-
saving machinery rarely brings any shortening of hours, or
increase in reward, to the labourer who works that machinery.
We see how great Trusts dehumanize men's dealings with each
other, and then there comes the expectation of a better day.

" In New York, Chicago, and other congested centres,
where men make haste to grow rich, the prevailing
conditions seem to have swept aside many of the old
barriers that used to impede the activities of wealth
and to have prepared a soil unusually favourable for
the rapid grov^h of plutocracy with the many evils
that follow it. The prevalent habit of attaching
undue importance to material conditions is greatly to
be deplored. By not a few people in these great
cities poverty seems to be regarded as the worst of
evils, and a purely materialistic standard of progress
is thus created. Outward success has apparently
brought in its wake great spiritual dearth through the
extinction of many potent elements in the higher life.

" We were in New York during the commercial crisis

THE UNITED STATES REVISITED 129

of 1907, which was keenly felt at the time and produced
disastrous results. The excitement experienced and
the suspicion and distrust then engendered in almost
all classes will not readily be forgotten. No ready
money, either dollars, notes, or gold, was forthcoming ;
nothing could be obtained but Clearing House cheques.
Our Bank of England notes were received with the
greatest satisfaction at the hotel, for many even of the
extremely wealthy permanent visitors were unable to
pay for some time.

" The week of the Horse Show in November, one
of the great social events of the American year, added
to our experiences in another way, and formed a
pleasant relaxation in the midst of the technical work
with which my husband was engaged. Even the
harassed business men of the city, though apparently
disliking a holiday, yet make a point of attending the
Horse Show ; and it gives the women unique oppor-
tunities of displaying their many charming costumes.
One attractive young lady, a bride, who was at our
hotel, informed me that she was ordering several fresh
dresses for the Show, although she had only been
married a few weeks and had not yet put on some of
the new costumes in her trousseau. She became very
friendly and we often had long conversations. ' 1
expect you will like soon to settle in a house of your
own ? ' I suggested one day. ' Why no. I should be
terribly mortified if my husband wanted to start
housekeeping,' was the prompt and unexpected reply.

*' The following incident will serve to illustrate the
curiosity occasionally felt as to the clothing worn by
others. A young Scotch friend told us that soon after
she and her husband arrived in the States they had
lost a near relative, and owing to this bereavement
had gone to one of the large stores to choose mourning.
Entering the bonnet department, she asked that some

I

130 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

headgear might be brought to her, and removed the
black hat she was wearing. Immediately afterwards
two other purchasers, who had been eyeing her
intently all the time, picked up her hat, and one of
them even tried the effect of it on her own head,
turning to her companion and saying composedly,
' My, what a cute little black hat ! How does it suit
me? ' Naturally this free-and-easy behaviour astonished
our friend, as she knew that both women had seen her
come in wearing the hat (which was by no means a
new one), so that they must have known that it was
private property and not exposed for sale.

" The children in New York seem particularly
bright and friendly, but are v^thout the pretty shy-
ness which many of us find rather attractive in the
younger generation of the Old World. They live as
their parents' constant companions, and soon adopt
their manner of speaking and thinking. Therefore it
was not surprising, though perhaps rather pathetic, to
find that the prices of things loomed largely in their
young imaginations.

'' One instance was told us by an American lady,
who had been two years in Europe, and on her
return went to see some wealthy friends whose little
boy had been seriously unwell. Being taken to the
child's room, she told him how concerned she had
been to hear of his illness. ' Why, yes, I was terribly
sick, and had two doctors. It cost a lot too, I can
tell you,' answered the boy with portentous solemnity
and satisfaction.

" A dear little child of six years old sat at the table
near us at one hotel in the States, and had meals with
his parents, beginning breakfast every day with iced
water and grape-fruit, and taking a varied late dinner
at half-past seven. He sat up afterwards till ten
o'clock listening to the orchestra, and frequently gave

THE UNITED STATES REVISITED 131

us the benefit of his experience of men and things, and
proffered advice. He was very charming, in spite of
Deing old before his time, keeping us amused w^ith his
baby wit and wisdom. It was rather disconcerting to
find that his father was a medical man who suffered
from severe indigestion himself, although the boy was
allowed to feast on sweets and savouries as though
dyspepsia was but a phantom of the Imagination.

" My husband and I were frequently questioned
about tours to be taken in Great Britain. A lady who
had spent a few days in Scotland some years previously
was amongst those anxious for further information.
We found she had already visited Edinburgh and
Glasgow. ' Probably you greatly preferred Edin-
burgh on account of its historic buildings and associa-
tions with the past ? ' we suggested. ' Why, no, I
was terribly disappointed to find it such a mouldy old
city. I like Glasgow better. It has more push and
go and productiveness, and they had an elevator in
the hotel there, but there was none at the hotel In
Edinburgh, and I just hated walking upstairs,' was the
reply. After this it seemed useless to give glowing
descriptions of the antiquarian features of lona, St.
Andrews, and Stirling. However, many other acquain-
tances made in the States were familiar either by
association or study with most of our historic cities
and ruins, and eager to obtain suggestions respecting
projected visits to places of archaeological interest,
showing no such disposition to magnify the present at
the expense of the past.

" It would naturally be most unfair to suppose that
the frivolity, ostentation, and continuous whirl of
noisy life, without intervals for thought or natural
simple Intercourse, in which sojourners at a few
fashionable hotels would be involved, justly represent
what passes in the inner circles of refined American

132 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

social life. The givers of ' freak ' entertainments also
should not be considered as authorized exponents of
taste and thought. Many interesting and cultured
acquaintances were met with, and we could nowhere
have experienced more kindness and courtesy or formed
pleasanter friendships than in the United States.

" It is said that in New York strangers are some-
times asked how much they are worth ; in Boston,
what they know ; and in the Southern States, to what
family they belong. It certainly is a complete change
from Chicago or New York to go down into Maryland
or Virginia, where in many instances, except for the
large coloured population, one might almost fancy
oneself back in Great Britain. We were guests at a
charming old house built when Maryland was a
British colony by a Scotch ancestor of our hostess.
He, being a Jacobite, had gone out there after the
troubles following the rising in 1745-46, which ended
so fatally for the Stuarts at the battle of Culloden.

" Our friends welcomed us with great kindness and
hospitality, invited professors from the Johns Hopkins
University in Baltimore to meet us, and took us to see
the places of interest in their neighbourhood, including
the University and Hospital, the Roman Catholic
cathedral at Baltimore, and the Lexington market,
which was an amusing scene and crowded with coloured
people. There was an extensive fire in Baltimore a
few years ago and much of the older part of the city
was then destroyed, but several fine buildings have
recently been erected. Our hostess and her son talked
ably of scientific subjects, on art, literature, and
politics, and tried to explain to us the differences
between the Democratic and Republican parties in
the States, always a bewildering topic to Europeans.
They evidently had quite other ideals than the wealth
and worldly prosperity so * fiercely fought for and

THE UNITED STATES REVISITED 133

greedily grasped at by the weary winners ' in some of
the great cities of the West.

" At Washington, the capital of the United States —
* that city of magnificent distances,' as it has been
so aptly called by the Abbe Carrea — we were kindly
entertained by the British Ambassador and Mrs.
Bryce later in the autumn. As their guests we had
the opportunity of meeting several interesting people,
and they desired to present us to President Roosevelt ;
but as he was away, and we could not prolong our stay,
this was impossible. We, however, visited the Presi-
dent's residence, the celebrated White House, which
is a simple building of Virginia freestone. General
Washington himself had selected the site and laid the
corner-stone in 1792, and he lived to see the building
completed ; but John Adams was its first occupant.
Various alterations and additions were afterwards
made. The surroundings also are noteworthy : in
front is Lafayette Square, on the one side the Treasury,
on the other the State, War, and Navy buildings.
The White House is situated amongst fine trees and
bright flower beds, and the grounds merge into the
Mall and stretch away to the Washington National
Monument, which is an obelisk of white marble, rising
from an elevation near the Potomac River. We saw
it looming against the sky long before reaching
Washington, and in the city it confronted us in every
view. It is said to be the loftiest work of masonry in
the world, and is naturally regarded by Americans
with considerable admiration. Of course the Capitol
is the centre of attraction not only to politicians but
to visitors generally, and we spent some time there
examining the historical pictures and the statues of
distinguished Americans in the charming Statuary
Hall. We then went to the gallery of the Hall of
Representatives of Congress, which is a very fine

134 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

Chamber. We hoped to hear the speeches, but there
was so much loud conversation going on that we could
gather nothing. Soon afterwards there was an adjourn-
ment, and we immediately proceeded to the gallery
of the Senate Chamber, where we were rewarded by
hearing a speech from one of the senators, who spoke
most ably. The Library of Congress adjoins the
Capitol. It is a beautiful building, the mural decora-
tions being unusually fine ; and it is said to be the
best-lighted library in the world. Before leaving
Washington we visited the Smithsonian Institution
and the National Museum, which both stand in the
same grounds. There is a good historical collection
in the National Museum, and a valuable ethnological
collection. There are also special exhibits illustrating
the chief religions of the world. The natural history
collections are intended to represent primarily the
fauna of the United States, and secondly some of the
principal forms found in foreign countries. The
department of geology contains the extensive collec-
tion of the United States Geological Survey, all being
admirably classified.

" Washington is adorned with many fine statues and
avenues of stately trees, the parks and public gardens
being charmingly laid out. It was only after long and
heated discussion concerning the claims of New York,
Philadelphia, Baltimore, and other cities to be chosen
as the capital that Congress empowered the President,
General Washington, to choose a situation for a city
on the Potomac River. We were told that the site
chosen by him, and which became the seat of the city
named in his honour, was one to which he had been
attracted when a young surveyor.

" My husband and I also visited the house in which
Abraham Lincoln died. It is now converted into the
Oldroyd-Lincoln Museum, and contains many valuable

THE UNITED STATES REVISITED 135

autograph letters and publications, together with
various objects connected with the murdered Presi-
dent, one of the most highly prized being the family
Bible in which he wrote his name in boyhood. Other
notable institutions in Washington which we saw
during our stay were the Corcoran Gallery of Art, the
Treasury, the Soldiers' Home, and the State Depart-
ment.

" We also spent a short time in Virginia, but on a
subsequent visit three years later we had more leisure
to become better acquainted with this famous Southern
State, and especially with Richmond, the former
capital of the fallen Confederacy, and also with many
historic places connected with the life and work of
General Washington.

" Our next stay was at Philadelphia, and just as
Virginia is full of associations with George Washington,
so Pennsylvania recalls the names of William Penn and
Benjamin Franklin — the first distinguished for his
piety and zeal in promoting the welfare of all mankind,
including the poor Indian ; the second, one of the
most remarkable men in science and literature that
America has produced. It will be remembered that
Philadelphia is situated on the Delaware River, and is
the chief city of Pennsylvania and one of the most
important places in the United States. It is called
* The City of Homes,' and we were most favourably
impressed by the kindness of the citizens whom we
met, everyone being friendly and endeavouring to
give us information and assistance. There are many
fine buildings, and the City Hall is crowned by the
statue of William Penn, looking down over his own
Quaker city. It is worthy of note that whilst Virginia
and every other colony in the New World were
visited in turn by the ravages and horrors of Indian
warfare, no drop of Quaker blood was ever shed by a

136

HENRY FORBES JULIAN

red man in Pennsylvania. To William Penn was due
this immunity from carnage enjoyed by his followers
in the province he had founded, which had been
granted to him by Charles II in payment for debts
due to his father, Admiral Penn, by the Government.
In his new country Penn's dealings with the Indians,
like the rest of his methods, were humane, just, and
in advance of his age ; whilst religious enthusiasm and
social theory went hand in hand under his guidance.
He was willing to walk with the red men alone in their
forests and to join them in their feasts. He caused
Colonel Markham to inform them that he would not
take by force a single rood of their ancient hunting-
grounds, but would buy it from them with their full
consent and goodwill ; and that he would never allow
his followers to annoy or defraud the Indians, to
cheat them of their fish, their wild game, or their
beaver skins. If a quarrel arose between a red man
and a white man, twelve men — six Indians and six
English — should be deputed to meet together and
judge which was in the right, and settle the matter
accordingly. It is pleasant to reflect that this was
subsequently incorporated in the Great Treaty signed
between the Six Nations and William Penn, and
faithfully kept by the Indians.

" To Franklin's untiring enthusiasm the first library
is due, and in 1743 he also founded the American
Philosophical Society, which is the oldest organized
body in America for the pursuit of philosophical
investigation.

" The old State House, now known as Independence
Hall, dates from early colonial times ; and also the
Pennsylvania Hospital and Christ Church, to which
church our Queen Anne gave a set of plate for the
Holy Communion that is said to be still used on certain
occasions. Our pleasantest visit in Philadelphia was

THE UNITED STATES REVISITED 137

to the old Friends' Meeting House, where a member
of the Society of Friends received us most kindly, took
us over the library, and gave us much information
about the city. We also inspected the Roman
Catholic cathedral, a large modern building, and v^ent,
moreover, to several of the public institutions.

" My husband and I spent Christmas week at
Boston, and in this hospitable city we received a
cordial welcome from some of its cultured inhabitants,
finding much to enjoy and to remember with pleasure
in this great centre of American intellectual life. It
is charmingly situated at the head of Massachusetts
Bay, near the confluence of the Charles and Mystic
Rivers. From an early time the sea-girt peninsula
seems to have attracted attention, as it was thought
to present unrivalled facilities both for commerce and
defence. It has substantial wharves on its water
margins, many of them being covered with imposing
warehouses. The public buildings and churches are
numerous and well worth visiting. On Christmas
Day we attended service at Trinity Church, where the
musical service is beautifully rendered. It holds a
considerable congregation, and is said to be one of the
largest churches in the States. We found it crowded
with worshippers. We also went to see some of the
quaint old churches of early colonial days, and visited
the Roman Catholic cathedral of the Holy Cross. At
the chief Congregational church we read some of the
pamphlets of the Mayflower League, we inspected the
Unitarian church with its fine stained-glass windows,
and saw also the curious church of the Christian
Scientists, a large building of most peculiar con-
struction. Benevolent and charitable societies flourish
in the city, being heartily supported by its generous
inhabitants. One of our drives was to Harvard and
Cambridge, where we saw the homes of Longfellow,

138 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

Lowell, and others who had been undisputed rulers
in the Republic of Letters. The University and
Museum were also inspected, as well as the Bunker
Hill Monument.

" Although it was winter, the weather was brilliantly
bright and sunny, and this enabled us to judge how
beautiful the Boston Common and public gardens
must look in summer. We visited the Faneuil Hall,
where so many political speeches were delivered in the
revolutionary period. It was built in 1742, and the
old State House was erected a few years later. The
modern State Capitol on Beacon Hill is a very imposing
structure. Several houses still stand which recall
revolutionary days. There are numerous important
buildings also in Copley Square, including the magnifi-
cent Public Library, which is said to be the largest
free library in the world ; and the Museum of Fine
Arts, containing an excellent collection of paintings,
sculpture, and antiquities. The Museum of Natural
History with its large collections is situated in Boylston
Street. However, it is impossible to give more than
the merest passing reference to the various institutions
that we enjoyed seeing in the city which Emerson
described with patriotic pride ' as appointed in the
destiny of nations to lead the civilization of North
America.' It will be readily understood that the
great libraries, art galleries, and museums offer many
attractions to European visitors. We were interested
also in the fact that a Boston friend who acted as our
kind and courteous guide was descended from one of
the signers of the Declaration of Independence.

" My husband, being descended from one of the
Huguenot families who had been forced to leave
France in order to secure the rights of conscience, was
specially occupied at Boston in studying the memorials
of the thoughtful and religious Puritan emigrants, who

THE UNITED STATES REVISITED 139

are to this day revered as the patriarchs of America ;
whilst his sympathies and mine were also immediately
engaged by recalling in Philadelphia the evidences of
the deep spirituality of William Penn and the personal
piety of his followers, for on my mother's side I am
descended from a long line of Quaker ancestry.

" Other great centres were also visited, and on a
northern tour into Canada we broke the long journey
both at Albany and Buffalo, and saw the memorial
erected to President McKinley in the latter city.

" My husband was anxious to take me to Niagara,
and he enjoyed paying a second visit himself to the
celebrated Falls which have been so long famous and
constitute one of the chief attractions of the American
continent. His previous stay had been in the summer
season, and it was now midwinter ; but he told me
that he thought the snow-clad district, with the
brilliant sunshine and rainbow-tinted spray, made
the scene even more lovely than it had seemed to him
before. The broken sheet of river, hurling itself down
with incessant roar and whitening the precipice from
bank to bank, presents a sight of unrivalled beauty,
the neighbouring ground never ceasing to quiver with
the roll and plunge of the precipitated water — the
' thunder water,' as the Indians poetically named it.

" We spent several days at Niagara, which was in
every way advantageous, for it is only after making
repeated visits and enjoying a constant view of the
two cataracts, the ' Horseshoe ' on the Canadian side
and the American Fall on the southern side, that the
marvellous grandeur of the scene with all its picturesque
beauty can be fully realized.

" From Niagara we proceeded to Toronto, which is
said to be the most English of all the Canadian cities.
Here we received great kindness from everyone, and
the weather (although cold and frosty, with deep snow

140

HENRY FORBES JULIAN

on the ground) was bright and beautiful, reveahng to
us something of the charm of the Canadian winter.
We were deHghted to be again under the British flag,
and felt thoroughly at home ; but unfortunately my
husband's time was limited, so we could make only a
short stay in the Dominion, and soon had to return
to the United States. However, before leaving, visits
were made to the University, the Parliament buildings,
and the Law Courts, Toronto being a great educational
and legal centre and the seat of the provincial govern-
ment.

" The long journey had led us to several places
with which my husband was familiar, as he already had
visited them in his expedition to the North American
continent in 1893. He saw that great changes had
taken place during those fourteen years in the young
and rapidly developing communities and busy cities
of the Transatlantic West.

" In addition to his professional work he found
much that was worth studying in various political and
social matters, such as the question of the Trusts, then
specially agitating men's minds in the States. His
own views, though progressive, were never extravagant,
and whilst recognizing the unwisdom of those whose
whole aim in life seems to consist in attempting to
stem the tide of popular feeling, he saw the danger of
being deluded by the noise and clamour of ignorant
demagogues. He was never a partizan, and this
moderation won him many friends both in the States
and in Canada.

" Leaving New York for England on one of the large
and comfortable steamers of the Hamburg-American
line, we had a pleasant week at sea, and, arriving safely
at Plymouth in January 1908, reached our home at
Torquay a few hours afterwards,"

CHAPTER XII
MEXICO

1^ FTER staying at home for a brief holiday,

ZJL Forbes Julian found himself summoned to
JL JL London on fresh technical work. He con-
tinued his researches on the development and
improvement of the cyanide process, but whenever
he could obtain release from professional labours he
gladly hastened back to the seaside. Immediately
on his arrival in town from Torquay in January he
made a report on their American business to the
Board of the Butters Company.

His sister, Emily Julian, having been recently
appointed principal of the Avery Hill College at
Eltham, he was able, during his visits to town, to see
her more frequently than had hitherto been the case.

Lady Henry Somerset visited Torquay in March to
speak at the Pengelly Hall on her life-work. Hester
Julian had frequently met the eloquent temperance
reformer at Lambeth Palace and elsewhere, and a few
days before the meeting received a letter from her
arranging to visit them whilst at Torquay.

The impressive address, describing the speaker's
successful efforts for raising suffering and degraded
womanhood, aroused strong interest in the Duxhurst
work, and on Lady Henry's visit the same evening at
" Redholme " further details were heard, remarkable
incidents being given of numerous lives that had
been rescued and of victims of drink who had been
reclaimed.

m

142 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

Most of the early spring was spent in town, but
with the approach of Easter Forbes Julian turned his
face homewards. In a letter to his wife written on
April 3rd, just before returning, a recent request that
he would become a contributor to the Mining and
Scientific Press is mentioned.

Leaving Devonshire soon after Easter for London,
he and his wife settled at Hampstead, and (although
closely engaged throughout the day) he found, as
usual, much stimulus in attending the Friday evening
lectures at the Royal Institution with his friend, the
Rev. J. O. Bevan. The discourses given by Sir James
Dewar and Sir J. J. Thomson were always especially
attractive, and it afforded him pleasure to meet the
members and their friends in the library after the
lectures, to see the microscopic displays and examine
the scientific apparatus and the various important
exhibits.

The Thursday afternoon meetings of the Royal
Society, at which he and his vdfe were present with
their friend. Professor Harley, in like manner enabled
him to meet and to listen to papers and discussions
from some of the men most distinguished in modern
science, those who had added to the sum of human
knowledge by piercing the mysteries of nature, the
exponents of the two sciences in which he took such
keen interest, physics and chemistry, as well as the
leaders in other departments of knowledge — experts
whose illuminating researches had placed them in the
first rank of scientific inquirers, even in an age prolific
in great men.

During the summer Forbes Julian and his wife
were present at some of the sessions of the Pan-
Anglican Congress, and on Sunday, June 14th (the day
before the opening of the Congress), heard his cousin,
Dr. Moore Neligan, Bishop of Auckland, preach at

MEXICO 143

evensong at St. Paul's Cathedral. The preacher made
an earnest appeal for the fulfilment of Britain's religious
obligations as a Christian nation to her colonies and
possessions in all parts of the world.

On the following day at noon the opening service
for the members of the Congress was held at West-
minster Abbey, being conducted by the Dean, Dr.
Armitage Robinson.

The Albert Hall was crowded on Tuesday night for
the first great evening meeting, when the Archbishop
of Canterbury delivered his inaugural address ; and
the papers and discussions were continued throughout
the week.

In the midst of the Congress meetings and of
various projected plans for the summer Forbes Julian
was suddenly summoned by an urgent cable to under-
take work for the Butters Company in Mexico. This
was the first separation from his wife (for more than
a few days) since their marriage, and at first he
endeavoured to postpone the journey until the cooler
autumn weather, that she might be able to accompany
him ; but on learning that the Mexican work could
not be delayed, he reluctantly arranged to go alone.
On Monday the 22nd he and his wife were present
at the Albert Hall and heard several eloquent speakers
on the subject of " Christian Truth and other In-
tellectual Forces," Mr. Balfour, Bishop Welldon,
Father Waggett, Canon Hensley Henson, and Mr.
Masterman all contributing able addresses. Unfor-
tunately, the traveller had to leave London on the
24th, the day of the concluding service at St. Paul's
Cathedral, when the Thanksgiving offerings were
presented to the Primate by the archbishops and
bishops. A telegram from his wife briefly describing
the service reached Forbes Julian on the R.M.S.
Caronia at Liverpool, and afforded him the oppor-

144 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

tunity of keeping in touch with the closing scene of
a Congress memorable to the members of the Anglican
Church and to those in communion with them
throughout the world.

A few days after his departure, and whilst he was
still on the voyage to Mexico, a somewhat serious
revolt, the first indication of coming trouble, occurred
in that unsettled country, which was soon to be
convulsed in the throes of civil war. Fortunately,
the ill-starred rising of 1908 was of short duration
and was speedily suppressed, but the political horizon
remained ominous and the smouldering discontent
of the people afterwards found vent in open rebellion
and protracted and sanguinary struggles, resulting in
the deposition of President Diaz and the assassination
of President Madero.

The news of this insurrection and tidings of the
burning and looting of villages, which reached him
on board the Caronia through Marconigram, did not
cause him the least alarm or the thought of postponing
his projected journey ; it rather added an atmosphere
of adventure to the expedition and that slight sense
of danger which only serves to heighten its interest.
His wife, however, was so seriously concerned that
she sent a cable from England to reach him on landing
in New York, begging him to make inquiries there
before proceeding further.

He cabled back immediately to relieve her anxiety,
" Travelling safe " ; and would have started at once
for Mexico, but was unexpectedly detained in New
York for a few days by a telegram from Mr. Charles
Butters, who was crossing the American continent
from San Francisco and was anxious to meet him.

In a letter to his wife written before reaching New
York, from which extracts are given, the traveller
describes his voyage on the R.M.S. Caronia^ a fine

I

MEXICO 145

steamer of the Ciinard Line, and mentions a chess
tournament by wireless telegraphy between the pas-
sengers on this vessel and the S.S. Teutonic,

On board R.M.S. Caronia,

1st July, 1908.

We stayed only a very short time at Queenstown. The
morning was brilliant, which helped to make the harbour
(which is so familiar to me) look lovely, and we skirted all along
the south coast near enough to see the houses. I never saw
the Irish coast to better advantage. A great number of gulls
followed the ship, but in the night we ran into a fog and
had the horn blowing at intervals. The birds (wise creatures)
thought Ireland was good enough for them, and so they ceased
to follow us. . . . On the 28th, Sunday, we had a strong land
breeze which gave the air a deliciously crisp feeling. The sky
was almost cloudless. At about 3 p.m. there was a partial
eclipse of the sun visible. In the morning there was service
conducted by the captain in the first-class saloon. The choir
was accompanied by a pianist and four stringed instruments,
and at the conclusion of the service one of the choir sang as
a solo the hymn " Abide with me."

The 30th was a glorious day with a very pleasant tempera-
ture. In the evening a concert in the first-class saloon was
a great success. Afterwards there was a dance on deck. . . .

To-day the weather is superb, and delightfully warm for
lounging on deck. It is expected we shall land to-night, in
which case I shall put up at an hotel in New York, and take
the train' to-morrow which makes a connection at St. Louis
with the one for Mexico City.

This ship is splendid, as steady as a rock, with three fine
decks. The officers and stewards are all very civil and the
passengers are pleasant, Americans predominating.

We saw very few ships, but the White Star liner Teutonic
is following us and has been within reach by wireless telegraphy
for the past three days. There has been a chess match between
passengers on the two ships, which seems rather a wonderful
thing. It is not finished yet. . . .

I made the acquaintance of Mr. A. D. Hall, whom I recog-
nized as one of the British Association members who read a
paper on Agricultural Chemistry at Section B at Cape Town.

146 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

He is going to America to give a series of lectures at Cornell
and Boston, but he hopes to return in time for the Association
meeting in Dublin.

My neighbour at meals is a New York doctor, a typical
American who has been to Europe for a rapid trip. Opposite
me is an energetic American lady who has been travelling with
her aunt all over Europe. The old lady is over eighty.

Landing in New York at the beginning of July, he
was in time to witness those annual celebrations at
which the American Eagle flutters its wings so ener-
getically, and in writing home he alludes at the close
of the next letter to this exuberance of patriotism :

Murray Hill Hotel,
New York,
'ird July, '08.

I landed yesterday morning and went to the office to hear
if there were any instructions about proceeding to Mexico.
I found a wire had been received from Mr. Butters (who is
on his way to New York from San Francisco) asking me to
wait until his arrival. . . .

I got your cable safely ; it was just like you, dearest, to
be anxious about me when you saw in the papers about the
Mexican revolt. These sorts of things in all the Latin-
American States are always purely political against their own
people, and are more or less of a perennial nature. Strangers
are never endangered by them, and there is not likely to be
any more fighting for another year. I shall probably not
be leaving here until the 6th or 7th, but I will take all precau-
tions possible to ensure safety. New York looks so familiar
that I feel as if it were only yesterday that I saw it last ; a
few new skyscrapers mark the only change. To-morrow is
the greatest day of the year over here, and everybody is getting
ready to wave their star-spangled banners and let off fireworks.

Two days later he writes again, on July 5th :

. . . On Saturday, being Independence Day, everyone
devoted the time to letting off fireworks and keeping up New
York's reputation for noise. The newspapers congratulate

MEXICO 147

the country on the day having passed off so satisfactorily ;
only about fifty people were killed and thirteen hundred
injured ! . . .

In the two following letters to his wife he describes
the days preceding his journey and the interviews with
his friend Mr. Charles Butters, for whose firm he was
engaged in giving scientific information on technical
matters to their lawyer, Mr. Binney of New York,
in conjunction with the distinguished expert Dr.
Chandler.

The work he was undertaking for the firm in Mexico
was of somewhat similar character to that carried
out the previous autumn in the United States. The
Butters Patent Vacuum Filter Company and the
Moore Filter Company were now engaged in a metal-
lurgical patent dispute of the first magnitude. The
questions involved were of so highly technical a
character that, though interesting to experts, they
would hardly be attractive to ordinary readers, and
it is not intended to do more here than to refer to
them in these general terms. Forbes Julian alludes
in his letters from time to time to the legal proceedings
in New York, and to Dr. Chandler and other experts
whom he met in connection with the scientific and
technical evidence being collected.

Murray Hill Hotel,

New York,
Jth July, '08.
Mr. Butters arrived on Sunday morning and I saw him
in the afternoon. He explained that he wired me to await his
arrival as he thought he might be useful in giving me informa-
tion regarding my trip to Mexico. Owing to the revolt a
little delay might be beneficial, as the Vice-President of Mexico,
whom I have to see, will be so much engaged for a week or
two that he may not be able to devote as much time to our
matters as we should like. . . .

148 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

Murray Hill Hotel,

New York,
loth July, 1908.

The people here are envying me the trip to Mexico, and
Mr. Binney wants me to find some pretext for taking him
with me. I should much prefer having you to anyone else
in the world. ... I have bought a little Kodak which will
take photos about the size of a post card. There are many
mines near Mexico City that I may have time to visit, and I
want in particular to take photos of parts of the mining
" plants." It will also be useful for taking pictures, so that
you may learn what the country is like,

Mr. Butters has asked the secretary of the American Club
to give me the privileges of a member during my visit to
Mexico City. If I can get a room there it will be much
pleasanter than living at an hotel.

I am enclosing you a few photos of New York skyscrapers.

The Metropolitan Life building is about 40 feet higher
than the Singer building. It is, however, not yet quite
completed. They are now talking of putting up a building
909 feet high near Wall Street. The Tower of Babel after
that ! . . .

I have booked to leave to-morrow (Saturday), and expect
to arrive at 6.30 a.m. next Thursday. ... I am very much
grieved to hear of the deaths of Sir Arthur Havelock and
Mr. Brooking Rowe. Sir Arthur had been failing for some
time, but I had no idea that Mr. Brooking Rowe had been ill.
He will be a great loss to the Devonshire Association.

Death had been busy amongst his circle of acquaint-
ance, several having recently passed into the unseen
v^orld, and he felt very keenly the loss of the two
friends referred to in the last letter. Sir Arthur
Havelock had aWays been glad to discuss colonial
matters with him, as already mentioned. Mr. Brook-
ing Rowe, of Castle Barbican, near Plymouth, was
a well-known Devonian antiquary and one of the
original members of the County Association, which
was meeting this month under the presidency of
Lord Monkswell.

MEXICO 149

In the following letter home the traveller gives an
account of his journey to Mexico and of his first
impressions of the country and its people.

The American Club,

City of Mexico,
i^thjuly, 1908.

I left New York on Saturday, July nth, by the ferry for
the Pennsylvania Railroad Station in New Jersey. I caught the
St. Louis Limited train, which was made up only of Pullmans,
a dining-car, and an observation-car. The train was quite
luxurious. We passed through some charming scenery, and
after leaving Philadelphia got into the most English bit of
country that I have seen out of England. A pretty little
place called Malvern reminded me of our visits to Worcester-
shire. The country round is not unlike the old place. The
day was hot, but not disagreeably so, and at night I managed
to get enough sleep to feel rested. I had the top berth and
a very pleasant man, Mr. Gilbert of St. Louis, a publisher of
law books, had the lower one.

Sunday was very hot, well over 90°, but the humidity was
low, so that it was not as oppressive as New York feels at a
much lower temperature. There was some dust, but on the
whole it was not disagreeable. Mr. Gilbert and I became
very friendly, and he wanted to know if I could not stay for
a day or two at St. Louis, when he would put me up at his
club ; but that, of course, was impossible. There was a young
fellow — a Mr. Clark of New York — sitting in the section
opposite ours, and he joined in our conversation. He turned
out to be a very interesting man, an electrical engineer, who
had seen a great deal of this side of the world. We all three
remained together during the journey. Our train arrived at
St. Louis by 4.30 p.m. My train did not leave until 8.15,
while Mr. Clark's train for Dallas, Texas, did not leave until
8.32. On Mr. Gilbert hearing this, he invited us both to
dine with him at his club and showed us a little of the town.
He then came back to the station and saw us off. He is a
really nice fellow, and I hope I shall be able to do something
for him when he visits London. That night in the train was
oppressively hot, but in the morning it was much cooler. I
believe we passed through several towns in the night, and

150 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

on waking in the morning we were at a place called Little Rock,
Arkansas. From this point we passed all day through forest
land, with clearings in places where there were villages and
cotton and maize plantations. At about one o'clock we
arrived at the most important town for the day, named
Taxakana, a border-town between Arkansas and Texas ; here
we stayed for two hours. The afternoon became thundery,
and we ran through a tract of country that had had heavy
Tain. The moisture in the air was excessive and prevented
sleep until after midnight, when the air cooled.

On Tuesday morning we arrived at San Antonio, and
here I saw the first signs of our approach to the Mexican
frontier. The buildings were in a different style from anything
I had passed and the people were of mixed race. No doubt
there is a good deal of Mexican or Indian blood in them.
There is no American bustle and stress here, as the climate
is enervating. . . . We now got into the land of the cactus
and the palm with virgin scrub, and ran through a hundred
miles of it before dark. At about 5 p.m. we arrived at Laredo,
an important town, and now there was nothing between us
and Mexico but a river. By 5.30 we reached New Laredo,
just across the river, and here the baggage was examined by
the Mexican officials. At the door of the Custom-house — a
wooden chest — were three soldiers in dusty white uniforms
leaning with fixed bayonets against the pillars of the door.
After the luggage had been examined they marched off in
fine military style. The officials were very polite and attentive,
but very casual. They all speak Spanish and a little English.
My luggage was checked through to this point from New
York, and after passing the Customs I had it re-checked to
Mexico City, when I thought all formalities were over. How-
ever, up came one of the men to say an officer was waiting in
the train to examine my hand luggage. Having got that over,
I went on to the platform, where another man came up to
accost me with a large sheet of paper. He spoke about as
much English as I spoke Spanish. He wanted to know my
name, where I came from, my business, why I was going to
Mexico, my age, whether married or single, &c. Most of
the answers he did not understand, but wrote something down
in Spanish. When I told him my age was 47, he repeated
the words several times and then wrote down 37. . . . From

MEXICO 151

this point the journey was intensely interesting. ... At Laredo
the temperature was about 90°, and from that point on the land
rose and the air became cool. At 8.15 p.m. we stopped at a
little roadside hotel, where I had my first Mexican meal. . . .

Wednesday. When I woke up we were in the midst of
yuccas, aloes, and cactus. On either side of the railway were
low ranges of hills, while the land between was almost level.
The climate was deliciously invigorating, very much like the
high veld in South Africa. There were tiny villages every few
miles along the line. Whenever the train stopped a number of
children and poor blind and crippled people came and begged.
It all presented a great contrast to the thriving cities in the
United States. Every now and then we saw a small cemetery,
with imposing monuments and occasionally a large cross
standing in the midst. As we proceeded further the people
looked better dressed and more prosperous, which is probably
due to their finding employment at the mines in the vicinity.
Food seemed to be plentiful enough, and scores of women and
children surrounded the train at every station, selling fruit,
cakes, and various hot dishes. The houses everywhere looked
more or less dilapidated, but the buildings with a good deal
of colour, and the bright and varied dress of the people, pro-
duced a charmingly picturesque effect. At San Louis Potosi,
a town of about seventy-five thousand inhabitants, there were
several important buildings. We also passed another large
city called Monterey. The whole day the weather was delight-
ful and the scenery most interesting.

Thursday. We were awakened at 5.45 a.m. as we were on
the outskirts of Mexico City. I felt as though I could have
gone on travelling for another six days. It was a bright
sunny morning, and the drive to this club gave me a good
impression of the city. All the older parts seem full of interest.
Our lawyer, Mr. Wiechers, has shown me a few of the old
buildings and has promised to take me to see everything he
can. I could have no better guide, as he seems to know the
history of every building in the city. There are a great many
fine churches, most of them dating from early Spanish days
The place is brimful of attractions for the antiquary, and the
people are most friendly and polite. ... I have had an
audience with the Vice-President and some other State officials,
and I shall probably also have to see President Diaz.

1 52 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

The next letter, written on his wife's birthday,
contains references to Chapultepec, famous for its
associations with the Emperor MaximiHan and earher
rulers of Mexico. Further accounts of the scenery
and vegetation are also given and observations on
the Mexican people, with allusions to Mr. Wiechers,
who showed much kindness and attention to the
traveller.

The American Club,

City of Mexico,
2\th July, 1908.

I sent you a cable last night so that you might have some-
thing from me at breakfast this morning. . . . This being
your birthday, I am giving myself a half-holiday. I would
take a whole day, but I have an appointment with the Minister
of the Interior which must be kept.

« • • • •

It is very lonely going about without you ; I am always
wishing you were here, and especially when I see some of the
interesting old churches which abound at every step.

. . . There is no oppressively hot weather here ; it is
usually 50° to 60° at night and 60° to 70° in the day-time.
The winter temperature is, I am told, very much the same
as the summer, but the nights are colder, occasionally Vv^ith a
little hoar-frost. The vegetation is subtropical and all our
subtropical Torquay plants are to be seen here, only appearing
very much more luxuriant and abundant. There is a pretty
little park in the middle of the town, in which the dracaenas,
yuccas, and palms stand 50 feet high. Plumbago grows like
a weed, and a pretty creeper (which at home only grows in
greenhouses) runs over the tallest trees, producing a charming
effect. In this park an excellent band plays every day between
II A.M. and I P.M. There are between fifty and sixty per-
formers, and the music appears to be much appreciated. A
portion of the ground is covered with a long awning, and this
enclosure is occupied by the Mexican better class for social
intercourse while the band plays. The poorer people surround
the bandstand and applaud every well-executed piece.

The Mexican upper class are very exclusive and they have
charming manners, but they will not associate with the ordinary

MEXICO 153

American business man, no matter what his wealth may be.
Practically no American business men are admitted into their
society ; probably this is partly political and patriotic, but
the result is that the Americans keep entirely to themselves.
There are small colonies of British, French, and Germans, and
these mix with the Mexicans.

In the afternoons, especially on Thursdays and Sundays,
at about 5, there is a stream of carriages going out to historic
Chapultepec, with its beautiful park, about four or five miles
away, reached by a wide handsome avenue. Between 7 and 8
they return to the town and drive up and down a street which
is about as long and as wide as Bond Street. This is the Bond
Street of Mexico City. Between these hours the traffic is
often quite as dense as in the London Bond Street in the
season. There are fine shops here, and one can buy almost
anything. Judging from the prices in the windows, they
do not seem to be very different from London prices. The
cost of living in hotels is only about half that of New York . . .
and I never had more obliging and attentive service anywhere.
The usual time for the Mexicans to dine is about 9 o'clock.

There is a splendid service of tramcars here, and cabs are
plentiful, usually victorias with a few ordinary " growlers."
There are two classes, the red and the blue, the difference
being that the blue ones look a little smarter and charge nearly
double. I drove out in one with Mr. Wiechers the other
day. . . .

I have a comfortable bedroom at the club here, and every-
thing is kept spotlessly clean. The maids and waiters speak
only Spanish, but they are wonderfully quick at finding out
what one wants, and the head waiter can speak English. . . .

In another letter home, written at the end of July,
a description is given of the Catholic cathedral of
Mexico City. It is known as the Metropolitan Church
of Mexico and was consecrated as the Church of the
" Ascencion de Maria Santissima," being the largest
and most important cathedral of this Spanish republic.
The building was commenced as early as 1573 on land
purchased by Franciscan friars. It was completed
and solemnly inaugurated nearly a century later.

154 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

The traveller frequently visited the cathedral. The
Sagrario, to v^hich he refers, adjoins it on the east.
He also inspected most of the churches and public
buildings. A remarkable feature is presented by the
celebrated zodiac or calendar, v^hich v^as allow^ed by
one of the Spanish viceroys to be built into the
cathedral, but is held to be the property of the National
Museum. It is of basalt, is of great height, and clearly
shows the division of time into cycles, years, and days.

The American Club,

City of Mexico,
i^th July, 1908.

. . . Since writing last I have had a chance of seeing a little
more of the city. On Friday and Saturday I was busily
engaged in preparing a Report, but on Sunday I had the
whole day to myself, and I rambled about on foot into all
sorts of places. All the poorer class of shops, the markets, and
all places wherever eatables are sold, are open on Sundays,
which seems to be the principal marketing-day of the week.
I wandered into one of the poorer quarters, where the streets
were crowded with people, mostly Indians. It was more like
a fair than anything else, and the people danced about like
children just out of school. In my wanderings I came across
innumerable churches (mostly in a decaying condition) and
other public buildings. I was longing all the time for you to
be with me. ... In the morning I went into the cathedral —
a fine structure which contains many objects of interest. . . .
There are numerous oil-paintings there, and some are said to
be very fine, but they are so hung that one cannot see them
to advantage. There is an immense amount of gilt and a good
deal of colour, which produces rather a gaudy effect.

Mass was going on at one end of the cathedral whilst I was
there. I found a door through which people were streaming
and I followed the current, which led to an old chapel in which
some famous preacher was in the midst of a sermon. He
appeared to be very eloquent, and I should have liked to under-
stand what he was saying. This chapel is called the Sagrario
and is very ornamental outside, whilst the inside looks decaying
— in fact, the seats looked dangerously rotten. . . .

MEXICO 1 55

In front of the cathedral is a large plaza planted with trees,
under which are shady seats. In the middle there is a band-
stand. The band seems to play the whole day, and the place
is crowded with the poorer classes, who are very orderly and
appear greatly to enjoy the music. In the evening the
numerous lights amongst the trees produce a pretty effect. . . .

At the beginning of August he describes a visit
to the neighbouring sacred shrine of Guadelupe, and
the anniversary celebrations v^hich he w^itnessed in
honour of the patriot Hidalgo, whose memory is held
in affectionate regard by the people. An interview
with the Minister of Fomento is also mentioned.

The American Club,

City of Mexico,
2nd Aug., 1908.

I want to finish a Report I am writing for the Government
officials, which ought to be sent in as soon as possible. I am
expecting to have some time after this is completed, and I
shall then be able to see something of the neighbourhood.
A few days ago Mr. Wiechers took me to Guadelupe, a village
reached by tramway, one of the most interesting places near
here. There is a small hill there, on which is a graveyard
where only the most famous people have been buried. We
arrived after the gates were closed, and the man said it would
be impossible for us to enter. A dollar coin had, however,
a miraculous effect, and the gates flew open. Near by is the
spot on which an Indian declared that the Virgin Mary appeared
before him and impressed her image on his garment.

This happened two or three hundred years ago, and imme-
diately a chapel was built on the spot, and the image was
framed and placed on the altar. Thousands of people yearly
have made pilgrimages to this place ever since. It is a simple-
looking little chapel containing little that is attractive. A few
years ago some rich Mexicans built a magnificent church at
the foot of the hill, and the image was carried down amidst
great pomp and ceremony and placed on the altar of the new
church, which is certainly very beautiful both inside and
outside and has nothing gaudy about it. The pictures are
very fine, and there are silver railings round the altar. In the

156

HENRY FORBES JULIAN

village there is a perpetual fair which is entirely supported by
the pilgrims. . . .

On July 30th, which was the anniversary of Hidalgo's death
(Mexico's national hero), there was a grand procession. It
was about a mile long, and was attended by prominent citizens
and the representatives of various societies. The last party
in this concourse carried picks, shovels, and garden-rakes ;
what they represented I have not yet discovered. One of the
most remarkable things about the procession was the great
floral display. There were hundreds of enormous wreaths,
about seven feet in diameter, made of lovely flowers. These
take two men each to carry, and are sent by the various institu-
tions in the town.

Since writing to you last I have had an interview with the
Minister of Fomento. He is a man of importance here, and
can do a great deal, if he wishes, to assist my work. He is
very genial and can speak English, and we were good friends
immediately. Few of the older generation here can speak
English, but the younger people of the upper class all learn
it now. Hardly any of the poorer people speak English, the
waiters and servants knowing as a rule only Spanish, but
they are used to dealing with people who know little or no
Spanish. In the better-class shops there is usually some one
who can speak a little English. . . .

It will be seen from the next letter how greatly
he enjoyed the wealth and profusion of the Mexican
flowers and foliage, which render the country so
attractive to all lovers of botany :

The American Club,
City of Mexico,
Sth Aug., 1908.
... I have just finished my Report, and it is now being
translated into Spanish. While the Government officials are
studying its contents I hope I shall be able to see some of the
mining-fields, as I have letters of introduction to the leading
mining men. There are a great many places of interest within
a day's journey from here, and I should like to see them all.
I wish that you were with me ! . . .

Mexico is truly the land of flowers. I have never seen
such profusion in any part of the world. There is a flower-

MEXICO 157

market next to the cathedral where only flowers are sold, and
they are exceedingly beautiful. The church floral decorations
are very elaborate. Some churches keep a staff of decorators
perpetually arranging the flowers. A church just behind the
club was beautifully decorated on Sunday. The entrances
alone must have had a ton of cut flowers about them.

We have had lovely weather all the time I have been here,
but thunder and rain often occur in the night. Even in the
bright sunshine one can walk rapidly without discomfort —
due, no doubt, to the high altitude and the dryness of the air.
There are no hills in the city, but all round is a beautiful range
of mountains. ... I find the upper-class people here very nice.
. . . The middle-class women wear hardly any kind of head-
gear. They are very simply dressed and wear black shawls
of a thin material, which is much more becoming to them
than colours. The great mass of the people are, of course,
Indians, and their dress is more picturesque than neat. Every
evening, between 7 and 9, there is a cinematograph entertain-
ment near the entrance to the park, at which thousands of
these Indians congregate. They seem to be very easily pleased.
Close to the same spot the National Theatre is being erected,
which will be an ornament to the town. Opposite the theatre
is the General Post Office, one of the finest buildings in Mexico
City. . . .

During his stay the traveller often visited the
National Museum of the city, bringing home many-
photographs of the remarkable remains of ancient
Mexico exhibited there, including the " sacrificial
stone," the image of the god Chac-Mool, and other
interesting remains from Chichen-Itza.

CHAPTER XIII

MEXICO— continued

UP to this time his work had lain wholly in the
capital, but early in August he left Mexico
City and during the following week visited
Pachuca, which has long been noted as a mining
centre. Here he was received with the utmost
cordiality and kindness by Mr. Gerault, Mr. Merrill,
Mr. Narvaez, and other mining men of the district,
to many of whom he was well known by name, and he
describes his travels in a series of letters to his wife.

Pachuca, Mexico,

^th Jug., 1908.
. . On Friday, 7th, I managed to get my Report delivered
to the officials. As I should have nothing to do while they
were deliberating on it, I hurriedly packed my things and left
Mexico City for Pachuca, a famous old mining camp. It is
about two hours' run north of Mexico City. I could get no
advice about the hotels, but I saw the names of two mentioned
in the Railway Guide. Just before arriving I asked a gentleman
in the train which of these two was the better. He laughed, so
I then asked which of the two was the worse. " That's about
it," he said, " but you might try the * X.' " On arriving I
made for the " X," and after asking several Mexicans the w^ay,
I found myself in a square surrounded with trees containing a
bandstand all lighted up. On an imposing-looking building
I distinguished the words " Hotel X." After one or two
unsuccessful attempts, at last I discovered the office. In a
Mexican hotel there is a courtyard called the patio in the
middle of the building, and all the rooms open into the patio.
There are balconies for the upstairs rooms. You therefore
walk out of your bedroom into the open air, and every part

is8

MEXICO 159

of the hotel is reached from the patio. There was a girl in
the office, and I asked her for a bedroom. She replied in
Spanish. She then called a little boy about ten years old,
who said to me in good English, " What do you want ? "
I replied, " A bedroom." " Do you want one with a view
from the window ? " he next asked. " Yes," said I ; " give
me the best you have." With that another little boy picked
up my bag, and away they both ran to show me my room. It
turned out to be a very good bedroom with a pleasant view
of the hills, overlooking the square. . . . Next morning I
set off to present my letters of introduction. I had one to
Mr. Merrill, manager of one of the largest mines here. On
presenting the letter we recognized each other as having
travelled in the same train the evening before ; he was the
man whom I had asked about the hotels. We had an interest-
ing conversation, and he sent me two letters of introduction
in the afternoon.

I next went to see Mr. Narvaez, to whom also I had an
introduction. He is a Mexican and does not speak English
very fluently. As soon as he heard my name, however, he
gave me a very warm welcome, and politely said I was the
best-known man in the mining world in Pachuca. I spent
the whole afternoon with him going over his works and talking
shop. He introduced me to several others. After that, at
about six o'clock, I called on Mr. Gerault, the manager of a
famous mine. He is a charming man — a Frenchman by birth,
who has lived nearly all his life in Mexico. W^e talked until
about 7.30, and then he offered to drive me to the principal
mines next morning. He told me how delighted he was with
my book, and said all sorts of pleasant things about it. Next
morning I met him with his carriage with four mules. We
drove about four miles up-hill to his mine by a winding and
picturesque road. On the way we called at all the mills and
met the managers. It was all very interesting to me. Mr.
Gerault took me down his mine, which is about 400 feet
deep, and we came out through a long tunnel. A trolly
and two mules met us in the tunnel, and we were driven the
whole way. At the mouth of the tunnel the carriage was
waiting for us, and Mr. Gerault asked me to join him and his
wife at dinner. She is a Mexican and is very nice, but speaks
hardly any English. . . .

i6o HENRY FORBES JULIAN

The next letter gives a further account of the hearty
hospitality of the mining camps, and is written from
the hacienda, or Mexican farm, of Mr. Berrislope.

Hacienda Berrislope,
Mexico,

iph Jug., '08.

... I had been expecting to hear that the Government
officials had finished their deliberations over my Report,
which would leave me free to return for the British Association
meeting. If I were to start now I could get to Dublin in
time, but we have just heard that it will take ten days before
we may expect to learn what the officials propose doing. I
shall therefore have to stay, much as I should like to be with
you in Dublin. ...

So far everything has gone on satisfactorily for the ultimate
success of my mission, and I am enjoying my stay amongst
the Mexicans. They are a very interesting and agreeable
people, and the country is delightful. My trip to Pachuca gave
me some idea of the manner in which the people live. I must
now give you an account of the last two days I had at Pachuca.

On Monday I went to the Loretto Mill and presented a
letter of introduction to Mr. Brown, the manager. This
was given to me by Mr. Merrill. When I arrived at the mill
Mr. Merrill himself was there and asked Mr. Brown to show
me everything. I had an interesting morning, and was
introduced to all the heads of the departments. As I was
leaving, there were four of us talking together, one an English-
man, another a New Zealander, and the third a Canadian, so
that we were all British subjects. I went to lunch with
Mr. Merrill, who showed me over the house, which is quite a
palace. It was built by an old English company about a
hundred years ago. It was recently sold to his company,
together with the mines of the English company. It would
accommodate about fifty people, and the banqueting-hall
holds about two hundred. The old company used to give
periodical banquets, and when they sold the house they dis-
posed of some tons of plate made of silver from the local mines.
There is a bedroom preserved as it existed forty years ago,
when the Emperor Maximilian used it on his visit to Pachuca.
The furniture is not pretty, but is massive and quaint. Mr.

MEXICO i6i

Merrill offered to send me to another of his company's mills at
Guerrero — about ten miles by road. So at eight o'clock next
morning Mr. Brown called for me at the hotel with a carriage
and four mules, and we drove over a mountainous road through
lovely scenery. Dotted about on the hills in all directions
were indications of mines that had at one time existed and
others that were still working. Some of these mines have
been in operation for four hundred years. In two hours' time
we arrived at Guerrero, which is a straggling village situated
in a beautiful valley. I am told a good deal of it was built
by the English company a hundred years ago. The works are
surrounded with massive walls built after the style of a castle
in the Middle Ages. This was owing to the miners having to
protect themselves against brigands.

Mr. Henderson, the manager, had everything ready for
my reception. I had an interesting morning going all over
the works and being introduced to the staff. In the office I
met a very pleasant Englishman, who knew me by name when
he was in South Africa. He had been for several years there
with Lewis and Marks. We had an interesting conversation.
I got back to Pachuca soon after 3 o'clock, and that gave
me time to call on Mr. Merrill to say good-bye. I never met
kinder people than those at Pachuca. Everyone invited me
to stay if I should ever return there.

In the train on my way back to Mexico City a mining man
came and asked me if I were not Forbes Julian. He is an
Englishman who had been on the Rand, and is now settled in
Mexico City as a consulting metallurgist. We had an interest-
ing mining discussion on the way. He offered to help me
with introductions, and said he would make me a temporary
member of the British Club. As we were leaving the train
he introduced me to another mining man.

On arriving in Mexico City I went straight to Mr. Wiechers,
who informed me that, as there was not much likelihood of
the Government officials coming to a decision in our case for
some little time, he had decided on going to the hacienda
(farm), and invited me to accompany him. We caught the
evening train, and we arrived next morning at a junction called
Rincon. Here we had to wait for a train to take us by a
branch-line to Pozos, This took three hours to accomplish.
On arriving at Pozos we were the only two passengers left

3t

i62 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

in the train, and we expected a conveyance to take us to the
farm, fourteen miles away. However, there was none waiting,
but an Indian, who carried our baggage, informed us that the
carriage had come in to meet Mr. Wiechers the day before.
In the town this was confirmed by a storekeeper. We there-
fore concluded some mistake in the date had occurred, and
hired a man to drive out to the farm, to ask them to send the
vehicle for us. In the meantime we discovered a most quaint
little hotel. It was beautifully clean, although everything in
the place looked worn out.

The town must have had a large population at one time,
but it has now a deserted appearance. It contains three good-
sized churches that are open, and many that are closed. The
town was supported by a number of small mines, which a few
years ago were closed as non-payable. The people remaining
seem to be very poor.

By 6 o'clock our vehicle turned up. It would seat only
two, and was accompanied by a servant and a mule. By
6.40 it became quite dark, and we found the man on the
mule of great service, as he rode ahead of us and stopped at
every bad part of the road to warn us. We arrived at our
destination by 9 o'clock, and were welcomed by a son of the
proprietor of the farm, who is a most good-tempered and
genial man. He speaks a little English, but no one else on
the farm speaks anything but Spanish. . . .

The middle of August found the traveller at
Guanajuato. In writing home he recounts his further
experiences at the Berrislope hacienda, and his visits
to the historic city of Queretaro and to the quaint
mining city of Guanajuato, which is built in a narrow
ravine, the houses being crowded in steep streets like
stairways.

In the midst of these fresh and fascinating scenes
and the pressure of continuous work his thoughts still
turned constantly homewards. As an Irishman, the
meeting of the British Association in Dublin naturally
attracted him strongly. He mentions in several letters
that if he had been in the United States he would have
crossed the Atlantic with the object of attending the

MEXICO 163

gathering. His wife wrote to him describing the
scientific addresses and lectures and the social functions,
including a garden party given by the Lord Lieutenant
and the Countess of Aberdeen at the Viceregal Lodge,
and some performances by the Irish Actors at the
Abbey Theatre, together with an account of her
northern tour, taken at the conclusion of the meeting,
through the fine scenery of the Giant's Causeway, and
a southern journey to his birthplace, Cork.

Wood's Hotel,

Guanajuato, Mexico,

i^th Aug., 1908.

... I have had a delightful experience of life on a Mexican
hacienda. The size of a farm here may be anything from
about one thousand to thirty thousand acres and the buildings
are of great extent. They consist of a dwelling for the owner,
who also lodges his staff, a store of general merchandise,
stabling, a church, granaries, and huts for the peons (the
Indian labourers). The dwelling is built to form a square,
with a large quadrangle in the middle. At each outside corner
of the block there is usually a small tower containing rifle-
slots, from which the building could be protected in case
of attack from brigands. The doors of all the rooms open
into the quadrangle, and the windows look outside the building.
A great doorway leads into the quadrangle, from which one
enters any room. Adjoining is a large vaulted building (that
looks like a cathedral inside) for storing the grain. They
usually get three crops a year here, and these buildings will
sometimes contain many thousand pounds' worth of grain.
The peons build their own huts (usually of raw brick), which
are mere hovels. On Berrislope's hacienda there are about
one thousand of these people, and it is not uncommon to find
five thousand on one hacienda. No farm is complete without
its church, but there is seldom a priest to any church outside
the town.

The owner of a hacienda is always expected to be " hail-
fellow-well-met " with everyone. He generally carries an air
of importance about him, but dresses little better than a farm
hand. All the staff dine with him. Breakfast is to be had

i64 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

at any time from 4 a.m. to 7.30 a.m. This consists of eggs,
rolls, and boiled milk to which a little strong coffee is added
to suit the individual taste. Dinner is served from i to 2
o'clock, and usually consists of soup, a dish of rice and eggs
with chillies, boiled meat, roast fowl, grilled cutlets, beans
(a staple dish), and generally some fruit and coffee. Supper
begins about 8 o'clock, and consists of one or two meat dishes
and abundance of boiled milk with coffee. At 9 o'clock
everybody is in bed and fast asleep. The peons live almost
entirely on vegetable food, consisting of beans, cooked some-
times with a little fat, and tortillas (a thin cake made of Indian
corn and cooked on a hot stone). They also devour quantities
of cactus-fruit, which abounds everywhere. The cost of a
peon's food is about twopence per day. The peons spend all
their spare cash on pulque, an intoxicating drink made from
aloes. In the towns the poor Indians are completely demora-
lized with this stuff. They are small wiry people who are
able to carry great weights — often 150 lb. — for miles. They
are born agriculturists and look their best behind a plough.

Mr. Wiechers and I left the farm on Saturday and returned
by Pozos to Rincon, the same route by which we came.
Mr. Berrislope and some friends accompanied us on horseback
a$ far as the boundary of the farm. This is an old Mexican
custom. At Pozos we went to the same little hotel as before.
At Rincon we managed to get beds in the neighbourhood,
and were up in time to catch the train which passed at 6.16.
This brought us to our destination in an hour and a half,
where we were met by a friend of Mr. Wiechers, who drove
us to his hacienda. This is a most beautiful farm, kept in
perfect order. After breakfast we were driven over it. . . ,
I decided to go on by myself to Guanajuato, a mining camp
that has been famous for four hundred years. I accompanied
Mr. Wiechers as far as Queretaro, an historical old town. . . .
I found a large hotel, where, of course, nobody spoke English.
... I had time to see something of the town of Queretaro
next day, which contains many fine old churches. I caught
my train at 4 p.m. and arrived here at 9 o'clock. . . . This
is one of the most quaint, old-fashioned cities imaginable.
There is not a square of it that is level nor a street that you
could see down one hundred yards. ... I have met several
mining men, but have still many more to see. ...

I

MEXICO i6s

How I should love to slip over to Dublin and surprise you !
I know it will be a delightful meeting. . . . There would have
been no difficulty in my going to Dublin only for a week if I
were in New York, but it is too long a journey from here. . . •

After inspecting the interesting mines at Guanajuato
and meeting many metallurgists there, he paid a visit
to Guadalajara, which, with the beautiful gorge or
caiion within easy access, affords all travellers much
enjoyment who are fond of fine natural scenery. He
also had a great love of architecture, and was therefore
glad to have the opportunity of taking photographs
of the cathedral at the latter place, where he was for-
tunate in having the companionship of an American
acquaintance, Mr. Wheateley, who spoke Spanish.
This was a great assistance, and rendered the visit
even more agreeable than it would otherwise have
been. Forbes Julian himself was not a bad linguist :
as a schoolboy he had received the usual grounding
in Latin and Greek, he also knew French and German
fairly well, and he acquired sufficient mastery of the
Italian and a slight knowledge of the Spanish language,
which proved helpful for ordinary travelling purposes.

At Guadalajara he was delighted with the pottery,
of soft grey tint, and notwithstanding its fragility
brought home many specimens. It is polished but
unglazed. Thcrmanufacture of this pottery is carried
on in several parts of the country, and the various
coloured clays and different methods of treatment
produce many pleasing varieties.

Mexico City,

26th Aug.y 1908.
... I believe I shall not be wanted here after about Sep-
tember 2nd, and I shall try to see the Mitla remains near
Oaxaca. ... I have been delighted with everything I have
seen, and I am taking photographs to give you some idea of
Mexico. ...

i66 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

I arrived late at night at Guanajuato, and in the morning
called on Mr. Bryant, the general manager of a large group of
mines. He was just leaving for the United States, and so I
had only a few minutes' conversation with him. His right-
hand man, Mr. Butler, however, Was instructed to assist me.
He showed great kindness in helping me to see matters of
interest in mining, &c. . . . Another day I spent with Mr.
Van Law and Mr. Callard, two interesting young fellows, and
we talked shop the whole day. I also called on Mr. Mac-
Donald, an Irishman ; he is very genial and showed me all
over his mining works. . . . Guanajuato is a most interesting
city and contains some very ancient buildings. It is said
that the mines were worked in the days of the Aztecs, and in
1536 the Spaniards took possession of them and founded the
town, which contains several very fine churches, two theatres,
and some nice-looking residences. Nearly three-fourths of
the population are Indians, who live in their usual little hovels,
which are situated in narrow winding alleys that go up and
down hill in the most extraordinary manner. It is a most
densely populated spot. On either side of the town are high
hills, dotted over with huts amongst the cactus vegetation.

I left Guanajuato in pitch-darkness for Guadalajara, and
arrived at a junction, where I found I should have to wait
until 4.20 A.M. With the help of the train conductor I got
into a comfortable little hotel . . . and at 5.5 I arrived at
another junction called Irapuato, which is on the main line
to Guadalajara. The train had not gone very far when an
American came and asked me if we had not met the day
before at Guanajuato. I recognized him as a man to whom I
had been speaking when buying some post cards. We sat
together for the rest of the journey and agreed to go to the
same hotel. His name is Wheateley ; he is a lawyer from
Spokane, Washington State, and exceedingly pleasant, and
as he speaks Spanish, I found him of great assistance. We
rushed round Guadalajara in true American fashion and made
a great many snapshots, as he is an enthusiastic photographer.
Guadalajara is a beautiful town and contains a large number of
interesting old buildings. It has a remarkable cathedral that
is some 350 years old. I have taken several photographs of it.
We were shown (in the cathedral) a famous painting by Murillo.
Mr. Wheateley had a general letter of introduction, and he

PLATE VII

To face page i66

Photo by H. Forbes Julian

CATHEDRAL, GUADALAJARA

PLATE VIII

To face page 167

Photo by H. Forbes Julian

INTERIOR OF CATHEDRAL, GUADALAJARA

MEXICO 167

handed it to one of the priests, who passed it on to some
dignitary of the Church, and he came and offered us facilities
for taking photographs. He spoke English fairly well and told
me that he had been educated partly at an English college.

Our hotel proved very comfortable, and is kept by a German
and run in German fashion. We had meals in the open air,
on a balcony, and pigeons walked about at our feet picking up
crumbs all the time. Our waiter, who rejoiced in the name
of Prospero, was quite a character and very entertaining. A
young Scotsman and his wife sat at the same table, and when
he heard my name he asked me if I was Julian of Julian and
Smart's book. He turned out to be a mining man. . . .

One morning we went by train to a magnificent gorge or
canon. It was a delightful run through bea-utiful country.
We had travelling musicians on board who enlivened us most
of the time. The gorge is full of tropical and semi-tropical
vegetation and is a grand sight ; the foliage is gorgeous, giving
a splendour to the scene that is indescribable. . . .

The climate at Guadalajara is superb and several degrees
warmer than Mexico City. We left there after having spent
some very pleasant days together. . . .

A few days later he visited Orizaba, in which place
he found much that was attractive on account of the
quaint houses and streets, with the picturesque sur-
roundings near Popocatepetl. Originally it was a
Chichimec Indian town, its former poetic name,
Ahauializapan — " J07 of the water " — being derived
from the fact that here many mountain streams cross
the valley. This city has a pathetic interest, as it
was one of the favourite resorts of the unfortunate
Emperor Maximilian and the Empress Charlotte,
Writing home on August 31st, the traveller says :

I am now at Orizaba (about eighty miles from Vera Cruz)
in the midst of grand mountain scenery. This is a very
quaint and picturesque town, and is near the snow-capped
volcano of Popocatepetl. To-morrow I am going to Puebla,
thence I take train to Oaxaca to see the remains of ancient
Mexico. . . •

I

PLATE X

To face page 169

Photo by H. Forbes Julian

SAN DOiMINGO CHURCH, OAXACA, MEXICO

MEXICO 169

to slope downwards. We soon got into a gorge between hills
that towered six thousand feet above us, and by 2 o'clock had
descended over one mile. Here we were amidst lovely tropical
vegetation — palms, cactus, bananas, and^hundreds of varieties
of beautiful flowering plants. This continued for four hours,
when we again rose to the elevated land where Oaxaca is
situated. . . . The railway is narrow-gauge and is owned by
an English company ; it winds its way in a most zigzag fashion
along the banks of the rapid stream.

We arrived at Oaxaca in the dark ; it is a charming old city
containing some very fine churches and other interesting
buildings. Santo Domingo Church has a most gorgeously
decorated interior. The cathedral has an imposing exterior,
and I took several photographs. . . . There is also another
remarkably fine old church. ... In a niche over the door of
one of these old churches is a statue of the saint holding a
gridiron* . . .

The market is a most picturesque sight ; it was Saturday
morning when I was there, and it was filled with a motley
crowd of Indians. The people in this part of Mexico look
exceptionally happy and well fed, but they do not suffer from
a superabundance of clothing.

I arranged as soon as possible for a vehicle to take me to
Mitla, some thirty miles by road, where the ruins are to be seen.
A carriage met me driven by a boy of about twelve, a bright
intelligent little fellow who drove with the confidence of a
man of forty, and it took five and a half hours to reach Mitla.

I got into a comfortable hotel, the meals being served out
of doors under the shade of orange-, lemon-, and banana-trees.
It was truly a lovely spot. My waiter was even younger than
the driver, and probably only about ten years old !

I spent some hours in the afternoon going over the marvellous
Mitla remains and taking photographs. Portions of the ruins
are in a wonderful state of preservation and look as if the
stones might have been set only a few years ago. The orna-
mental designs are geometrical, of quite distinctive character,
and very finely and beautifully cut. It is all intensely interest-
ing. There is an underground passage that is in as good a
state as when it was built — a perfectly wonderful and remark-
able spectacle. The buildings show from their striking and
strangely specialized style of architecture that there must have

170 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

existed a highly advanced state of civilization, but how long
ago one can have but a dim idea.

There are even finer ruins to be seen in the neighbouring
. State of Yucatan. I paid a second visit to the ruins in the
morning and took some more photographs. My visit proved
of exceptional interest, but I was all the while longing for
more time. It was too much of a rush, as one did not get
sufficient time to realize the marvellous character of all that
one saw. . . .

I am now a member of the British Club, and met some of
the members yesterday, and we had several talks of home. . . .

Unfortunately, some long letters giving further
descriptions of the marvellous remains of ancient
Mexico at Mitla and elsewhere are missing. Although
his knov^ledge of prehistoric archaeology was not exten-
sive, the examination of the ruins stirred him to
unwonted enthusiasm. During his brief visits in
September he devoted all the time available to their
survey, taking photographs and getting drawings and
plans in the few days that could be spared from
professional engagements.

Concerning the geometrical character of the design
referred to, it may be interesting to quote a passage
from the Presidential Address delivered in 191 2 by
Dr. Maudslay at the Royal Anthropological Institute.
This eminent authority on Mexican art says : " To
me the decoration of Mitla appears to be a translation
of textile and basket work into stone, influenced of
course by the motives that are most prevalent in all
American art."

At the end of September the traveller visited El
Paso, on the American border, and in the following
letter mentions some of his impressions of the pageant
which he witnessed on the Mexican Day of Indepen-
dence before his departure. The promptitude with
which he left the country after his final interview with
the Mexican Director of Patents gives a characteristic

PLATE XI

To face page 170

Ht. ,. -^m

RUINS OF MITLA
(By kind permission of the Royal Anthropological Institute)

PLATE XII

To face page 171

RUINS OF MITLA
(By kind permission of Royal Anthropological Institute)

Photo by Dr. Maudslay

MEXICO 171

glimpse of the celerity of his movements when travel-
ling. Allusion is also made to the festivities on the
President's birthday, almost the last before the revolu-
tion. Diaz ruled the country with the heavy hand of
a master, but he developed its resources by encouraging
foreign enterprise. He was an eminently practical
man, whilst the patriotic Madero was a dreamer,
thinking only of " Mexico for the Mexicans."

St. Regis Hotel,
El Paso, Texas,
2ist Sept., 1908.

... I am now in the United States en route for San Fran-
cisco. On my way I am going to call at Prietas, which is a
little way over the Mexican border. . . .

There were several public holidays coming on when I
arrived from Oaxaca, and therefore I had not much chance of
an interview with the officials. Instead I paid a hurried visit
to El Oro, where there are several large mines which I wanted
to see. It was eight hours' journey to El Oro, which is situated
at an elevation of ten thousand feet. The people at the mines
all know me by repute, and were very kind in showing me about.
The town contains nothing of interest, but the mines are
amongst the finest in Mexico. They are owned by English
and French companies. The route to El Oro is through beau-
tiful mountain scenery, the vegetation being now at its best.
The flowers were charming and the colouring indescribable.
There are great fields full of single-coloured wild flowers —
pink, yellow, blue, purple, and white — many of which I
recognized as garden varieties at home. . . • I got back to
Mexico City on the President's birthday, but after dark and
too late for the ceremony. I was, however, in time for the
illuminations and fireworks and the sight of young Mexico
celebrating the occasion. . . .

On the following day, the i6th of September — Mexican
Independence Day — there was a great military and naval
pageant. I had a seat in an excellent position and saw every-
thing capitally.

The Mexican soldier, whether on horseback or on foot,
is not smart-looking. His uniform is cumbrous and gives

172 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

him the appearance of being clumsy. At the end of the
procession, however, came a regiment of rough-riders, who
are as smart a set of men as one could see anywhere. Their
uniforms were made of soft leather cut in Mexican fashion,
and they wore large Mexican hats. They sat on their horses
as if they were part of the animal. I am told that this regiment
was formed of the roughest and most unmanageable element
of the countryside rebels, thieves and highwaymen, but since
they had uniforms and were given the policing of the most
unruly districts, they have become useful members of the
army.

In the evening the whole town was again illuminated, but
the energy of the people to a large extent had been spent the
evening before and they did not show the same enthusiasm.

On the following day I visited the Director of Patents for
the last time. ... As there was nothing else to keep me in
Mexico, I left the same day. I have arranged to return via
San Francisco, so that I could explain to Mr. Butters and
Mr. Crosby exactly the position of affairs. ... I arrived here
last night, and expect to leave again to-morrow. This is a
typical American town where everything is up to date. It
is a tremendous contrast to the towns over the border.

The traveller returned to Mexico for a brief visit
to the mining district of Prietas early in October.
He had spent about three months in the country, and
it had been a time of long journeys, much mental
and physical exertion, and of varied interesting
experiences. The expedition had been entirely suc-
cessful both from a scientific and a professional point
of view, and had also been fruitful in fresh antiquarian
observations. He always looked back upon his visit
to the wonderful and unique archaeological remains of
ancient Mexico as one of those events in his life of
which the memory could never fade away.

After staying for a short time in Texas and New
Mexico, he visited Tucson in Arizona for a few days,
breaking the journey there on his way to the Pacific
coast.

CHAPTER XIV
CALIFORNIA

PROCEEDING westward to California, which
he had not visited for fifteen years, Forbes
Julian stayed for a short time at Los Angeles
and Pasadena, where he was delighted with the sunlit
skies, the beauty of the scenery, and the luxuriant
subtropical trees and plants.

In the following letters to his wife he alludes to his
various engagements. These letters from the United
States were hastily written in the intervals of travelling
and professional work, but they give an outline of his
labours at the time, so that through them he is enabled
to relate the experiences himself. Naturally many
passages are passed over that were written for his wife
alone, but in all his correspondence not one harsh or
thoughtless word concerning others has been found
which might have necessitated omission, the letters
and their outlook being invariably kindly and impart-
ing an intimate touch, revealing his character. Those
written from Mexico have been quoted with a fullness
of detail that might appeal to his mining friends ; the
rest of the correspondence is selected briefly for
general readers. This is an inevitable difficulty in
presenting a full life's work from the special to the
general outlook. For friends it should be full ; for
the public at large restrained ; and the task of a
biographer is to discriminate between the two
extremes.
Writing in October 1908 from Los Angeles, he says :

173

174 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

... I left Tucson in a Pullman sleeper and had a fairly
pleasant trip, although it was rather warm. We passed through
a place that is said to be one of the warmest localities on earth ;
it is 270 feet below sea-level. This was, however, in the night,
and I did not notice anything oppressive. In the morning
everything was covered with alkali-dust. After getting through
the desert we passed hundreds of miles of orange-groves, where
everything looked highly prosperous. I arrived here yesterday
and saw a good deal of the town in the afternoon. This
morning I called on Mr. Blaisdell, an engineer, and he invited
me on a motor tour. . . . We drove all through Pasadena,
which is a lovely place. It is the best residential part and is
beautifully laid out with subtropical trees and plants. The
palms are magnificent. I have seen a good deal of the town,
which contains some fine streets and the best shops I have
met with in America. The climate is very pleasant ; the
people were calling it hot, but it was no warmer than an
ordinary summer day in Torquay, and the evenings are cool.

I leave to-morrow morning for San Francisco.

In San Francisco friends in plenty were awaiting
him, and he was received with cordial hospitality by
Mr. Rickard, Mr. Crosby, and other mining men.
This, however, could not compensate for the great
disappointment of missing his English mail, and the
following letter is worth quoting as it incidentally
shows the writer's love of home.

Hotel St. Francis,

San Francisco,
iph Oct., 1908.
... I left Los Angeles on Sunday morning ; the line runs
quite close to the coast for about three hundred miles, and it
did my eyes good to see the beautiful ocean again.

The sea was calm, but there was a heavy swell which produced
magnificent breakers. We had brilliant sunshine, and the
colouring on the waters, which varied from a bright pale
green to a deep purple, was perfectly exquisite. . . . We
arrived here at midnight, and the next morning I hurried off
to the office, when they told me that all my letters had been
forwarded to New York. ... It has spoiled all my pleasure

I

CALIFORNIA 175

here, for it makes me feel very anxious when I am without
news from you. . . ,

Not having been in San Francisco since the earth-
quake and the fire, which swept away street after
street of magnificent buildings, Forbes Julian was
greatly distressed to see the evidences on all sides of
the dreadful desolation and ruin that had been
wrought, and he briefly alludes to the effect of the
rebuilding of the city in the next letter.

Hotel St. Francis,
San Francisco,
16th Oct., 1908.

The sun shines again and I am quite happy, for two of the
letters you sent to New York were forwarded here. One
was written from RusselPs Hotel, Dublin, and the other from
the Giant's Causeway Hotel. I was delighted to get them. . . ,

San Francisco is being rebuilt very rapidly, but the effect
of the earthquake and the fire is still apparent in places in
the heaped-up ruins showing the extent of the disaster. . , .
It is an absolutely new town. . . . Although there is nothing
pretty or attractive in the appearance, there is a pleasing
freshness in every building one enters. This hotel is an
excellent one and is beautifully furnished. . . .

rhave been put up as a member of the Pacific Union Club,
which is the Millionaires' Club, and have also been offered the
privileges of a member of the Bohemian Club, which is more
interesting, being the club of Talent. I have been kept busy
by callers, and have been invited out to lunch every day. This
morning I met Mr. T. A. Rickard, a Cornishman from Belfast,
who is greatly appreciated in the mining world. . . .

It was a great enjoyment to visit many of the old
haunts that had been familiar to him on his previous
visit, and especially Cliff and that exquisite part of
the bay named the Golden Gate, where such a beautiful
scene greets the eye. From this vantage-ground the
views of the sparkling sea, flooded with sunshine, are
full of variety and charm.

176 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

Hotel St. Francis,
San Francisco,
22nd Oct., 1908.
I have been sight -seeing, but cannot enjoy it all alone without
you. ... I have been twice to Cliff, a lovely spot on the
coast (about three-quarters of an hour by electric tram) where
the famous seal rocks are to be seen. During my first visit
the wind was strong and there were no seals, but the second
time several made their appearance. When I was here fifteen
years ago there were hundreds of seals on the rocks, but I am
told that many have now, unfortunately, disappeared. . . .
Several miles of the route to Cliff are along that beautiful part
of the bay known as Golden Gate. . . .

On Monday I went to lunch with Mr. T. A. Rickard, who
is editor of the Mining. and Scientific Press, and met an engineer,
Mr. Bosqui. Mr. Rickard is very good company and told us
some excellent stories. . . . Every day I meet mining men
who invite me out to their places, but I am so closely occupied
that I have to decline. . . . The weather is as variable here
as at home.

It is one day pleasantly warm and the next day cold.

Whilst in San Francisco he received the satisfactory
news from Mexico that their case had been successful ;
but he was detained longer in California than had been
expected, for although Mr. Butters, who had been
absent, soon returned, his brother-in-law, Mr. Crosby,
was extremely unwell ; so at this juncture Forbes
Julian offered to help with the pressure of their
professional work.

Hotel St. Francis,
San Francisco,
2'jth Oct,, 1908.
At present I am occupied at the office answering Mr. Crosby's
correspondence, as he is too ill to attend to business. He had
another relapse of heart trouble about a week ago, and the
doctors think his case serious. I was very sorry to find him
prostrate when I called to see him on Saturday. He is a
thoroughly nice fellow. ...

I went to Mr. Butters* house on Sunday and stayed the

CALIFORNIA 177

night. We have had several beautifully warm days, and it
was delightful crossing the bay to Berkeley, where he lives.

We have just received a cable to inform us that we have
succeeded in our case in Mexico, so that my mission there has
been successful. We are doing very well in our case in New
Jersey. Mr. Binney has managed without me, but at the
next hearing he says I must be there to help him in technical
matters. . . .

He was daily expecting a summons to New York,
and hoping afterwards to be able to return to England.

In addition to the time spent with Mr. Butters, he
paid many visits to Mr. Crosby in his illness, endeavour-
ing to cheer the invalid's sad and lonely hours.

The next letter describes the publication of the
results becoming known of the election of President
Taft ; and an account is given of an expedition to
Mount Tamalpais.

Hotel St. Francis,
San Francisco,
^th Nov,, 1908.

The Presidential election was a very tame and unexciting
affair here. During the day no one would have realized that
there was an election going on. In the evening there were
some crowds round the newspaper offices. The results, as
they became known, were shown by lanterns on screens, and
in the intervals between there were cinematograph illustrations,
but there was no display of enthusiasm. I sat in the hall
of this hotel looking at the results. . . . Then I went to the
Millionaires' Club and spent the evening reading the Spectator,
Saturday Review, and other home papers,

• • « • •

To-day I went with two friends to the top of Mount Tamal-
pais. It is half an hour by steamer to a pretty place called
Sausalito. Here we got a train that took us to the top of the
hill in about two hours, by a most extraordinary and winding
line. The scenery on the way is very beautiful and varied.
We started in cold damp mist that lay all over the bay, but
the train soon emerged into most glorious sunshine, and on
the top of the hill it was just like midsummer. On the one

M

178 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

side we looked down 2500 feet on to the Golden Gate, and
through a slight haze we could see the islands and the ships
on the ocean. On the other side was a vast expanse of white
mist that looked like billows of snow. How delightful it would
be if you were here ! . . .

The vicissitudes of travel in the Far West are
exemplified by the following reference to the trans-
continental journey of some Scotch friends :

. , . Last night I went to see Mr. and Mrs. Johnston.
They came a circuitous route, as he had to see some machinery
in an out-of-the-way place on the journey, so they were
eleven days crossing, of which seven of the nights were spent
in the train. For two days they could not get proper meals,
as there were no dining-cars on the train. Over a portion
of the way they were obliged to take tourist sleepers, which
broke down two or three times and made the train twenty-one
hours late. Mrs. Johnston declares she had to undress and
dress three times in one night through having to change
cars. . . .

It was not until the middle of November that he
was able to leave California. Proceeding to Chicago,
he had the unpleasant experience of a breakdown of
twelve hours in a Nevada desert. This he took with
the customary composure of an old traveller. Few
things disturbed his equanimity on a journey, excepting
the failure to receive home letters.

In Illinois the weather was so cloudy that he could
not enjoy the view of the lake, which he had seen
with so much pleasure on former visits ; but he
had the satisfaction of meeting some of his German
mining friends of the old Frankfort days during his
short stay. Writing from Chicago on November 24th,
he says : " I have almost concluded my business here
and expect to leave to-morrow for New York, and I
hope to finish there also in a short time now, and will
then be speeding off again to dear old England."

CALIFORNIA 179

The end of the month found him back in New York
in time for the public holiday and harvest festival on
Thanksgiving Day. He records the fact that the
weather was damp and gloomy, while such a dense fog
occurred as seriously to interfere with the shipping
and delay the start of the Lusitania of the Cunard
Line and other fast Transatlantic steamers.

By great good fortune he was not detained long in
New York, and arranged to sail early in December,
Reaching Liverpool on the 13th, he was able to arrive
at Torquay on the following day in time to spend
Christmas with his ynit at " Redholme."

CHAPTER XV
NEW YORK AND NEW JERSEY

THE year 1909 opened brightly for Forbes
Julian inasmuch as he was happily settled at
home once again amongst a pleasant social
circle after his long absence abroad, and on New
Year's Day itself a large number of friends gathered
at " Redholme " to welcome him back.

Frequently summoned to London by reason of
increasing pressure of work during these opening weeks
of the year, he yet returned to Torquay whenever
possible.

Amongst other friends staying there this winter
were Bishop Boyd Carpenter, General Sir Peter
Lumsden, Dr. Vaughan Cornish, the traveller and
scientist (who had recently returned from Panama),
and Colonel John Weir, a Scotsman who had been
much in America. In view of what was later destined
to occur, it is strange to note that on one occasion
while the Colonel was taking tea at " Redholme,"
Lady Alice Leslie also being present, the conversa-
tion between Colonel Weir and Forbes Julian turned
chiefly on voyages across the Atlantic.

Three years later both the Colonel and Forbes
Julian perished on the Titanic, while two of Lady
Alice Leslie's nieces, the Countess of Rothes and Miss
Gladys Cherry, were also on the doomed vessel, but
were mercifully saved in the boats. Whilst discussing
the perils of the deep, the curious coincidence was
recalled that Mr. Forbes, the great-grandfather of the

180

NEW YORK AND NEW JERSEY i8i

subject of this memoir, had been drowned not far
from his Aberdeenshire home after having travelled
round the world and taken various long voyages.
Likewise Mr. Pengelly, the great-grandfather of the
present writer, the captain of a vessel, had also perished
by drowning on the Cornish coast, almost within sight
of the land and of his home.

On reaching London early in January Forbes
Julian met several colleagues, and wrote home on the
evening of his arrival : " I arrived in time for the
Board meeting, at which I gave my Report, and left
them all in good humour. I had a long talk with
Humphreys, who was interested in the news. . . . "

In town he also met his German friend Herr Crohn,
from Berlin, and Mr. Anderberg, the Swedish Vice-
Consul.

A week later he received a cable from Mr. Binney
stating that his presence would be needed in America
shortly for the Butters lawsuit.

Writing to his wife on January 21st, he says :

I am getting on with my work, so that I expect to be with
you at Torquay on Friday. I will try to get everything ready
to leave England at a day's notice, in case of need. ... I
have met several friends — ^Pollard Digby, Crohn, Anderberg,
and others.

Concerning these hurried voyages Herr Crohn
wrote somewhat later : " Mr. Julian was like a soldier,
always ready to start off on professional work at a
few hours' notice."

Although he faced light-heartedly enough the
prospect of another journey and voyage in " winter
and rough weather," this summons to cross the
Atlantic again so soon was most unwelcome. Before
his marriage he had greatly enjoyed travelling at all
times ; now he was unhappy alone, but consented

1 82 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

to go when needed on technical matters — for he
was, above all, faithful to the profession he had
chosen.

Fortunately, it was found that he need not leave
until the following month, and on February i6th he
started for Southampton, his wife accompanying him
on the first stage of the railway journey.

That summer the British Association was to meet
at Winnipeg and he was to read a paper before the
Engineering Section. He was therefore looking for-
ward to returning to England and starting again with
the members for Quebec at the beginning of August.
He was, however, detained in New York until July,
so his wife went out in that month to join him for
their Canadian tour.

Reaching New York at the end of February, he
was closely engaged with professional work during the
spring, as shown by extracts from the correspondence
with his wife, in which he mentions many of the
details of his interviews with Mr. Binney and Dr.
Chandler and describes his daily life in the city. In
the first letter quoted he alludes to the festivities on
St. Patrick's Day.

The letters are all written from the Murray Hill
Hotel, and bear the following dates :

1 8/^ March, 1909.
... It was a great day was the seventeenth — a day that
would have filled St. Patrick himself with enthusiasm had he
been in Fifth Avenue to witness a procession of seventy-five
thousand men and hundreds of thousands of sightseers. It
was a regular gala-day for Pat. The police, being all Irish
and masters of the situation, cleared Fifth Avenue of the
millionaires and gave it over entirely to their countrymen. At
St. Patrick's Cathedral there was a grand service. Every
Irish society had its band and played the most stirring Irish
airs. The sightseers wore some sort of green emblem, and I

NEW YORK AND NEW JERSEY 183

am enclosing you my little trefoil that I bought for one cent.
The Irish chambermaid at the hotel was in tears at having
to leave her friends in the middle of all their festivities. . . .
I have sent you a New York evening paper with an account
of the Irishmen.

A lover of animals, his broad sympathies were
always exerted to better their condition or mitigate
their sufferings. He enjoyed making frequent visits
to the Zoological Gardens when in New York, and
in the next letter describes one of these expeditions
to the Bronx Park.

2,0th March, 1909.

Sunday vv^as a brilliant spring-like day, and in the afternoon
I went off to Bronx Park. I took the third Elevated railway
to the Botanical Park Station, just opposite the greenhouses,
and had a pleasant walk through the shrubbery to the part
where the animals live. There have been some changes in
the Gardens since you were there. The elephant -house is
now finished and tenanted. It is a splendid house for the
purpose and is highly ornate. There are three large elephants
and two small ones, one of the latter being quite a baby. There
are two tapirs like the ones we saw and a baby only a few
months old. There is also another variety of tapir (Malayan),
a fine hippopotamus, and several other animals in the house.

... I spent an interesting hour with the birds and then
wandered over the grounds. . . .

By the beginning of April some progress had been
made with regard to the taking of testimony, and he
describes this in writing home, and mentions a fact
which shows that his volume on cyaniding was much
appreciated in America. Although very modest about
his work, he was naturally gratified by the kind manner
in which his colleague Dr. Chandler brought the
matter to his notice. He cared little for personal
renown, but valued very highl/ the warm regard of
his friends.

1 84 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

2nd Aprils 1909.

It is six weeks to-day since I arrived here, and it does seem
such a long time. . . .

Yesterday (Thursday) was a busy day, for it was the first
taking of testimony, and I must tell you how it is done.

We met at Mr. Binney's office, which (for the time being)
becomes the court — that is, during the taking of testimony
of witnesses on our side. When taking testimony of witnesses
on the other side we all meet at the opposing attorney's office.

In this case Dr. Chandler was " on the stand," and there
were also present the two attorneys, a plaintiff's representative,
and myself. An examiner is supposed to preside, but if the
two sides are agreed they can proceed without him. This
time no examiner was present. Everything is arranged before-
hand between his attorney and his witness as to the questions
that will be asked, and the answers are discussed for days and
weeks prior to the witness being put " on the stand." The
attorney then asks a formal question, which is taken down by
a typist, and the witness dictates to the typist his answers.
The witness is allowed any books, papers, or notes, and is
also allowed to revise his answer afterwards if he thinks fit.
The testimony is typed in triplicate, one copy being for the
court and one for each of the attorneys. Of course, in the
cross-examination (when that comes) there is no preparation
between the witness and the opposing attorney, but the witness
is allowed papers, books, &c., to consult as he may wish, and
is allowed plenty of time to arrange his answer.
' When all the testimonies are taken on the two sides the
evidence is put before the judges, who decide from the evidence
placed before them whether the plaintiff has a case or not.

These preliminary proceedings are very informal, as you
may imagine. The witness is given every opportunity to
make the best answer he can, and is allowed as much time as
he likes. The next hearing is to be on Tuesday, when Dr.
Chandler proceeds with his testimony. He may require five
or six days, and after that I am to go on the stand, but I think
it will not take more than two days for all I have to say. To-day
I went to Binney's, where (with Dr. Chandler) we prepared
more testimony.

Dr. Chandler asked me to-day to tell you that he asked
the metallurgical man on the telephone if he had any books

NEW YORK AND NEW JERSEY 185

on the cyanide process. The reply was that he had about half
a dozen, but one of them was much better than all the others.
" Well, send me that one,'' said Chandler, and when it arrived
it turned out to be Julian and Smart's work. . . .

A visit made with Dr. Chandler and the assistant,
Mr. Cressey, to the Columbia University afforded
him much pleasure ; he was always interested in
inspecting a laboratory and eager to hear the details
of any fresh discovery from the discoverer himself,
realizing clearly the necessity of visiting and comparing
in different countries the methods in use amongst
chemists and mining men.

6th Afril, 1909.

On Saturday morning Dr. Chandler rang me up and asked
me to meet him at the Grand Subway Station, as he wanted
me to see the Columbia University.

We arrived there at 10.15, and after going over his labora-
tories he took me to see his museum. It is a collection of
everything manufactured in various parts of the world which
involves a knowledge of chemistry in any one of its branches.

It is intensely interesting, and a perfectly wonderful collec-
tion for any man to have got together. . . . After that I
went over the buildings with his assistant, Mr. Cressey, a
delightful young fellow who had been last summer for a tour
to see the European universities. It was Saturday afternoon,
and most of the men were away, but I was introduced to
two of the professors in the School of Mines. ...

On Sunday after lunch I crossed over to Brooklyn by ferry

and walked back via the new bridge that was opened last week

for foot passengers and vehicles. It is a fine structure and of

great length.

• t • • •

I was particularly interested to hear of your pleasant visit
from the Bishop of Ripon and Mrs. Boyd Carpenter, and I
hope you will enjoy going to Miss Boyd Carpenter's wedding-
party at Kingswear.

On Easter Sunday he heard an eloquent sermon from
an Irish clergyman, and during the week carried out

1 86 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

an experiment with Dr. Chandler at Columbia Univer-
sity, where he was glad to avail himself of the oppor-
tunity of meeting various well-known scientific
investigators.

iph Jprilf 1909.

On Saturday ... in the evening I wandered as far as Broad-
way, and on passing the Criterion Theatre I saw announced
there Jn Englishman's Home, and not having seen one for a
long time, I strolled in. The piece was fairly well acted, but
it seems to be hardly suited to a New York audience. The
house was well filled and I think a large proportion of the
audience were British. Four young fellows sitting near me
were all British, and one told me he came from a village in
Essex near where the scene is laid.

Easter Sunday was a brilliant day with a crisp, frosty feeling
in the air. The churches were crowded and the streets
thronged with people. I went to a church in Fifth Avenue,
where the clergyman gave an excellent sermon. He was
unmistakably an' Irishman. The building was very prettily
decorated.

Yesterday I joined Binney at Dr. Chandler's house, with
whom we stayed for dinner, and did not get away until after
10 o'clock. To-day Dr. Chandler spent from 11 till 5.30
" testifying." He says this is one of the most complicated
cases with which he has had to deal. It is probable I may be
giving expert testimony next week. . . •

On Wednesday I went to Columbia University, and Dr.
Chandler and I carried out an experiment in connection with
our case.

He has to " testify " to the result. I was introduced to
several of the most eminent professors.

• • • • •

On another legal matter in connection with the Butters
Filter Company Binney suggested consulting Griggs (Colonel
Weir's friend), and we went over together. Griggs used to
be the Attorney-General of the United States, and he strikes
one as a very able man and full of interest. . . .

Whilst in New York he kept his forty-eighth birth-
day. In the next letter he alludes to this and also

NEW YORK AND NEW JERSEY 187

to the Engineers' Club, where he frequently met
mining friends and acquaintance.

yth May, 1909.

I shall be forty-eight next Sunday, nearly half a century !
I told Binney my age was forty-seven, but when I am put on
the stand I shall have to say that owing to the length of the
case I must alter my age, and that I hope I shall not have to
alter it again before the case is finished ! . . .

On Friday I went to lunch with Mr. Schneider at the
Engineers' Club. He is an interesting man and I had a
delightful conversation with him. . . .

Yesterday I stayed at the hotel writing, but on hearing over
the telephone that there was a letter at the office, I rushed
down town by the subway express. When I saw from it that
you were well after the influenza and going out it made me
feel all right again. I was delighted to hear of your being
appointed as the first lady to serve on the Committee of the
Natural History Society and their delegate also to the British
Association.

I think as the time comes near for the British Association
some of the geologists and metallurgists will want to go to
Cobalt. I understand that it is a wonderful formation. I
have just had a letter on business from the King Edward Silver
Mines at Cobalt, and I am known there by name.

I wish I were with you having tea in our garden. The
weather ought to be lovely in Torquay now. Here it is
quite cool, but the young green on the trees looks beautiful. . . .

This month, which he was accustomed to pass with
his wife among scientific associates in London, seemed
somewhat desolate to the traveller when spent alone
in a New York hotel, although the kindness of American
friends was much appreciated and always gratefully-
acknowledged.

His interest in the daily occurrences of life at home
remained as keen as though he were present, and he
was relieved to know that the generosity of a Torquay
friend, Sir Thomas Bazley, had rescued a picturesque

1 88 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

corner of Devonshire from those utilitarians whose
chief desire seems to be that of destroying whatever
beauty they can reach.

The early years of the century were remarkable
for the rapid progress made in the solution of scientific
problems, and he was anxious to keep in touch with
the work of some of the learned societies of London,
for, although devoting himself assiduously to his
favourite study, he had a wide and varied interest
in other branches of science. His wife sent him
reports of the different meetings, and also described
the gathering to which they had been invited at the
Albert Hall, where the Prince of Wales presented
medals on behalf of the Royal Geographical Society
to Lieutenant Shackleton and his brave comrades of
the South Polar Expedition.

1 8/^ May, 1909.

I expect there will now be quite an exodus from Torquay
for London. It looks strange here to go up Fifth Avenue
and some of the other residential parts and find half the houses
with shutters up when the season in London is at its height.
Within the last two weeks there has been quite a diminution
in the number of carriages and motor-cars in Central Park
and Fifth Avenue. . . .

I am glad to hear the Ilsham valley has been wrested by
Sir Thomas Bazley from the hands of the builders. I always
think that is the most charming part of Torquay. We have
had some lovely walks together down the valley. . . .

I hope you will go to all the usual meetings while in
London and will write and tell me about them, and
particularly the scientific societies and the reception for
Shackleton. I see from the papers that London is especially
full this season. . . .

Yesterday morning I went to the office and put in five
or six hours' writing, and then wandered through Central
Park. I cannot describe to you how beautiful the park is
looking, with thousands of trees and shrubs in blossom, which
rnake a perfectly fairy scene. The little lake has round its

NEW YORK AND NEW JERSEY 189

edge a number of drooping trees laden with wistaria in full
bloom, producing a charming effect.

Closely occupied during June, it was not until late
in the month that he could obtain the rest and change
needed from the exhausting heat and airlessness of
New York by going to reside at Atlantic Highlands,
from which place he could conveniently visit the city.
After settling, he describes his new surroundings and
the charm that this beautifully wooded and attractive
seaside-country district of New Jersey exercised over
him.

Atlantic Highlands,
New Jersey,
June 1909.
We have had a week of very hot weather with several bad
thunderstorms. The temperature was over 90° on Saturday
as I went to the office. I stayed there only a little while and
then took a steamer for Sandy Hook. It was delightfully cool
and fresh on the water. I went to "Atlantic Highlands,"
one of the nicest spots I have seen near New York. It is
purely residential and is surrounded with beautifully wooded
country. I engaged a room at a house on the highest part
of the land, where one gets perpetual sea-breezes. There are
only about half a dozen people here as yet, and they all seem
very agreeable. I removed here on Sunday, and yesterday
morning when I woke up and heard the birds singing I felt
as if I were back in dear old Torquay. . . . The sea trip of
two hours a day is a great attraction, and the wonder is that
everybody does not want to live at Atlantic Highlands in the
summer instead of in New York. The house is beautifully
situated, and I think you would like being here for a while.
I have been making inquiries about going North, and find
that there are good steamers as far as Albany, up the Hudson,
from which point we could go in any direction for Canada.
It may be hot travelling in the trains in July and August ;
the heat generally comes in waves that last three or four
days. . . .

In the following letter, written in July, he describes
some boating expeditions made with Mr. Greig, a

190 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

Scotsman with whom he soon became intimate and
who showed him much kindness. Becoming acquainted
also with several of the visitors as the hotel filled, he
was soon able to fraternize with the new-comers. He
also expresses his pleasure at the prospect of again
meeting his wife.

Atlantic Highlands,
New Jersey.

The Baltic is (I believe) a splendid ship. If she makes a
good voyage she ought to get you here by noon on the Saturday.
... It has been very warm the last two days, and as there
was not much to do at the office I gladly stayed at Atlantic
Highlands. It is much pleasanter living here than in New
York ; in fact, any of the outside places are preferable to New
York hotel life. ...

Mr. Greig (to whom the boat belongs) is very glad to have
a companion, and he and I had six hours' sailing together on
Saturday. We spent Sunday morning sailing about in the
bay very slowly, as there was only a Hght breeze. In the
afternoon a strong breeze sprang up, and we had a fine sail.
In the evening a thunderstorm cooled the air. On Monday
I went to New York and spent most of the day at the office.
To-day I was again at the office, and while I was writing
Mr. Garthwaite (Mr. Butters' partner) turned up from
London. . . .

I am looking forward to your arrival and to our Canadian
trip with delight. There is a great deal to be seen in the
short time at our disposal. . . .

His wife had remained in London until July to
enable her to go down to Eastbourne for the wedding
of his cousin Lieutenant Eric Neligan with Lelia,
daughter of Colonel Sir Charles and Lady Alice Fitz-
gerald, where she met a large number of his Irish
relatives. The bride was Irish both on her father's
side and on that of her mother, who had also been a
Fitzgerald before marriage, being a daughter of the
fourth Duke of Leinster. Nothing could exceed the
kindly hospitality of Sir Charles and Lady Alice, and

NEW YORK AND NEW JERSEY 191

It was greatly regretted by his numerous connections
that Forbes Julian could not be present.

Sailing immediately afterwards on the S.S. Baltic,
his wife enjoyed the companionship of Professor and
Mrs. Myres, of Oxford, who also were bound for the
British Association meeting at Winnipeg, the professor
being president of the Anthropological Section this
year.

Forbes Julian met the vessel, and his wife had the
opportunity of seeing his friend Mr. Greig, who spoke
warmly of his pleasure in her husband's society on the
boating trips and mentioned how useful his knowledge
(acquired from the old sailor Tipper at Shaldon) had
proved on various occasions.

CHAPTER XVI
CANADIAN TOUR FROM QUEBEC TO VANCOUVER

(Compiled from Mrs. Forbes Julianas Journals)

GLADLY leaving the heat of New York behind,
the travellers turned northv^ards to Mont-
real, staying there, however, but a few days,
en route for Quebec. Reaching this beautiful city, set
on a hill, with its rocky foundations, they drove up
the narrow winding streets to the Hotel Chateau
Frontenac, which occupies a site unequalled for fine
and extensive views. They passed the twilight of
the summer evening on the famous Duiferin Terrace.
Far below was seen the St. Lawrence River flowing
towards the east, and in the harbour every kind of
craft, from the great ocean liner to the tiniest canoe ;
whilst the lights of Levis began to glimmer in the
gathering darkness. Coming from the largest city of
the New World, the home of business and commercial
enterprise, the quaint Canadian capital with its halo
of romance, stirring the pulse with memories of past
days, afforded a remarkable contrast and spoke at every
turn of the heroism of one of Britain's greatest sons.

The city has little that is English about it, for
although several generations have now been living
prosperously under the British flag, yet the language
and religion of old France remain almost unchanged.
The street scenes somewhat reminded the visitors of
those in the old towns of Normandy and Brittany,
the French Canadians, although contented members

192

FROM QUEBEC TO VANCOUVER 193

of the British Empire, having the deepest devotion to
their mother-tongue and the Catholic Church. It
will be remembered that Jacques Cartier was the first
European who sailed into the St. Lawrence, and that
he spent the winter of 1535 at the base of the cliffs
of Quebec ; whilst the French fur-trading companies
soon afterwards made it their headquarters, and in
the following century it became a French stronghold.
Naturally the greatest attraction to British visitors
must be a visit to the historic Plains of Abraham with
all the memories of strenuous strife — the death of
Wolfe in the hour of victory and of his great antagonist,
Montcalm, who died of his wounds at an adjacent
convent a couple of days after the fatal field of
September 1759. The importance of this victory can
hardly be over-estimated ; it was indeed the pivot of
the war, for on September 1 8th Quebec capitulated, and
in the following year (1760) Vaudreuil, the last French
governor, signed a document surrendering Canada to
Britain. Wolfe's success, by which Canada was in-
corporated in the British Empire, made the loss of
the thirteen American colonies less disastrous.

After these scenes (so eloquent of the undaunted
courage both of the victor and the vanquished) had
been thoroughly studied, visits were made to the
historic Citadel, the Parliament Buildings, and the
celebrated Basilica, begun during the reign of
Louis XIV, when his influence extended to the New
World, Quebec being the seat of the French power in
America and the picturesque and prosperous capital
of New France. Here the costly vestments were
shown to the visitors and also many fine paintings, the
most famous picture probably being that of our
Saviour on the Cross, painted by Van Dyck. It is
interesting to recall the fact that at the time of the
French Revolution some Roman Catholic priests

194 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

secured several rare paintings and had them sent from
Paris to Quebec, where many are still to be seen.

On Sunday, service was attended at the Anglican
cathedral, and on other days visits were paid to places
in the Lower Town, an entertaining scene being
witnessed in the open market-place, where the farmers
and their families display their simple goods, much
French being spoken, which is the case in all the
thoroughfares and business centres of the city.

An expedition was also made to Levis, on the
opposite shore, this being a place of some historic
associations. Looking back across the mighty St.
Lawrence River, a fine view is obtained of the Citadel
and the Dufferin Terrace, the spires of the churches
in the city shining out clearly in the bright sunlight,
The steep, narrow streets and quaint little houses of
Levis give it quite an old-world character.

Other interesting expeditions within easy reach are
the fine Montmorency Falls and that spot dear in the
annals of the Canadian Catholic Church, the famous
shrine of Sainte Anne de Beaupre.

Leaving Quebec with regret, the travellers passed
through the pretty and prosperous town of Three
Rivers, proceeding thence to Montreal for a second
visit. This celebrated city, the largest in Canada and
the greatest in commercial importance, is also famous
historically, for as long ago as 1535 Jacques Cartier
discovered here the ancient Indian village of Hochelaga,
and somewhat later it was visited by Samuel de
Champlain. In the contest for supremacy in the
New World between England and France its story
stands out conspicuously, as it was the last place which
passed into English hands, being yielded up to Britain
by the French in 1760. During a century and a half
of peaceful progress the two nations have now con-
tinued flourishing in Canada side by side.

FROM QUEBEC TO VANCOUVER 195

During their stay the travellers were taken to several
places of interest by Professor Stanfield of the McGill
University. The church of Notre Dame and the
Anglican cathedral were visited, and service attended
at the latter. The Law Courts and the Bank of
Montreal were not forgotten, and the McGill Univer-
sity was thoroughly inspected.

The city has many fine buildings, and as they were
staying at the Windsor Hotel in Dominion Square
they were centrally situated, and were impressed by
the prosperity of the cosmopolitan city as evidenced
by the shipping, the manufacturing establishments,
and warehouses. One of the chief attractions is the
mountain park of Mount Royal, owing to the charming
walks and the panorama thence obtained of beautiful
views of the surrounding district and the St. Lawrence
River.

The next halting-place was Ottawa, the Federal
capital, which it was interesting to visit after staying
in the ancient capital, Quebec, and the commercial
capital, Montreal. The city is a creation of recent
times, and is pleasantly situated at the junction of the
Rideau River with the Ottawa. It is divided into the
Upper and Lower Town, and stands on high ground
overlooking a fertile valley. The morning after arrival
was spent in viewing the Government buildings,
which crown the great bluff overlooking the Ottawa
River and are stately and imposing. Rideau Hall, the
residence of the Governor- General, was also visited.

Another break in the journey westward was made
at North Bay, situated on beautiful Lake Nipissing,
where a few other members of the British x\ssociation,
geologists and mining engineers,were already assembled,
and on August 17th the party proceeded northward to
Cobalt. This mining district affords one of the most
remarkable stories in the history of recent Canadian

196 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

metallurgical progress. It was discovered accidentally
in 1903, and is noted for the narrow rich veins of silver
which are found traversing ancient quartzites and
conglomerates that have been invaded by diabase.
The Sudbury field (at some distance) is also of great
commercial value, giving Canada control of the nickel
market of the world.

An animated controversy has taken place as to the
origin of the ores. Professor Coleman and some
authorities consider them to be due to direct segrega-
tion from a molten rock, a norite gabbro ; but other
eminent professors, on the contrary, relying on the
microscopic structure and sequence of the minerals,
are of opinion that the ores must have been deposited
long after the consolidation of the adjacent igneous
rocks.

At Cobalt a group of earnest and successful mining
men are engaged in careful investigations and experi-
ments. Whilst staying there Forbes Julian and his
wife were the guests of Mr. Rogers, and were among
most congenial friends, meeting Mr. R. W. Leonard,
of St. Catherine's, Ontario, and other Canadians
eminent in the mining world.

The following description of the neighbourhood may
be quoted :

There are numerous small veins, probably averaging four
inches in width, with very high values in silver, together with
cobalt, nickel, and arsenic. ... In prospecting, cobalt bloom,
the delicate pink-coloured decomposition product of the
cobalt-arsenides, is looked for. If traces of it are found,
the rock surfaces, both those which are exposed and those which
are soil-covered, are carefully examined. Much of the pro-
specting consists in digging trenches through the soil to the
compact rock below. Nuggets of silver, freed from cobalt
and nickel minerals by the weathering of the latter, also
frequently give evidence of the presence of veins. At times
if the veins are covered by drift material, the undecomposed

FROM QUEBEC TO VANCOUVER 197

veins are found immediately below the soil and show^ glaciated
surfaces. The veins throughout the six or eight square miles
in which those rich in silver are found show no uniformity in
strike, and in nearly all cases their dip is vertical. There are
rocks of three ages in which productive veins have been found.
Most of the veins occur in the Lower Huronian conglomerate
and graywacke slate. A few are found in the older Keewatin
and a few in the younger diabase.

Intent on making himself master of what Had been
done in Canada, it will be readily understood with
what enthusiasm Forbes Julian studied on the spot
the methods in use and discussed with Mr. Rogers,
Mr. Leonard, and other acquaintances matters con-
nected with his favourite study, thus gathering
information concerning the equipment and operations
of various mines and metallurgical establishments in
the Dominion. The Cobalt silver veins brought about
the same result that the auriferous placers of Cali-
fornia, British Columbia, and Australia effected in
earlier times. They attracted not only miners, but
also other classes who came to the region and thus
effected its settlement more rapidly than in regard to
the slower but surer industries of lumbering and
farming.

In addition to availing himself of the experience of
the mining acquaintances met with, several visits
were paid to the mineral fields, which were studied
under their guidance, and no more admirable environ-
ment could be found to inspire a metallurgist. One
great advantage and benefit as to science is its
catholicity, a feeling of brotherhood seeming to exist
between the workers in all parts of the world, so that
a scientific man has friends everywhere.

Enjoyable drives and water excursions were also
taken during the week, the fine Temagami Lake and
surrounding forests making up a scene of sylvan beauty

198 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

of which the impression long remained. The effect
of the water and forest has been thus described :

Many-hued and soft-shadowed as the morning light plays
on pine- and spruce-top, on waving birch and quivering poplar,
on dark cedar and brilliant maple ; clear-cut and bright in
the strong light of a Canadian midday ; rich in purple, crimson,
and gold as the sun goes down ; vague, soft, and silvery in the
moonlight ; mysterious and overwhelming when the sun has
set behind the hills.

Continuing their journey across the continent, the
travellers carried with them from Cobalt kindly recol-
lections of their visit and of Canadian hospitality.
The views obtained from Lake Superior more than
repaid them for the fatigue of the journey. Most
lakes have a charm which appeals to the lover of nature,
but Lake Superior, the largest and noblest inland
expanse of fresh water in the world, must impress
even the least poetic mind.

Proceeding onwards from Fort William, the railway
line traverses a wild and romantic region diversified by
rapid rivers, large lakes, and fine forests. After leaving
Keewatin a beautiful scene is afforded by the Lake of
the Woods, which is studded with islands. As the line
runs on and Manitoba is entered the country slopes
gently down and melts into a plain, assuming gradually
the characteristics of the rolling prairie. The Red River
is crossed by a long iron bridge, and Winnipeg, the centre
of manifold progressive activities, is finally reached.

During the gathering of the British Association the
sections of Chemistry and Engineering met in the
University of Manitoba, whilst that of Physical Science
was accommodated at Wesley College. The meetings
were in every way successful, and many citizens of
Winnipeg, together with representatives of science
from all parts of Canada, the United States, and Great
Britain, assembled on August 25 th to hear the Inaugural

FROM QUEBEC TO VANCOUVER 199

Address of Sir Joseph Thomson. In this discourse
the President touched on the importance of original
research as a means of education, and dwelt on the
advantages and disadvantages of the present school
and university systems as a training for work in science ;
alluding also to the light thrown by recent investiga-
tions on the nature of electricity ; on the relation
between matter and ether ; the part played by ether
in modern physics ; and discussing some problems
raised by the discovery of radium.

The meetings at Section A, under the presidency
of Professor Rutherford ; of Section B, where Dr.
Armstrong was chairman ; and of Section G, at which
Sir William White presided, were noteworthy and
important, gaining a high place in the records of the
yearly gatherings.

Forbes Julian was now a member of committee both
of Section B (Chemistry) and of Section G (Engineer-
ing), in addition to serving on the General Committee
of the Association. He had not only a keen interest
in his own profession, but also a wide scientific out-
look. The programme of the meeting was unusually
full and attractive, evening lectures being delivered by
Dr. Tutton on " The Seven Styles of Crystal Archi-
tecture " and by Professor Herdman on " Our Food
from the Waters." Several receptions were also held
during the week, and the Lieutenant-Governor
received the members at Government House on
Friday, 27th. On the Saturday the metallurgist and
his wife went with other friends to a garden-party
given at Silver Heights by Lord Strathcona, who had
shown them much kindness on different occasions.

A quiet Sunday was spent in attending service at
St. John's Cathedral. They had the pleasure also of
the society of Dr. Du Moulin, Bishop of Niagara, a
genial Irishman who had known many of Forbes

200 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

Julian's relatives at Cork. The Bishop was settled at
the Royal Alexandra Hotel, where they were also
staying. It was convenient to be so centrally located
during this busy week, as many functions were arranged
at the hotel, two taking place on Monday, 30th, when
a luncheon party, given by Devonians in Winnipeg to
Sir William White and Forbes Julian as the two special
guests, was held there ; and also a reception of all the
members in the evening.

On the following day Forbes Julian was prostrated
by a sudden feverish chill and loss of voice. This
prevented him reading his Paper at the Engineering
Section, which was much regretted by the chairman,
Sir William White, who considered it an important
contribution, giving the solution of some of the
problems at which the author had been working.
Rallying with a couple of days' rest, he fortunately
recovered sufficiently to start for Vancouver on the
special train kindly provided for the official party.

Winnipeg commands the trade of a large region,
being situated about midway between the Atlantic
and Pacific Oceans, and it was not without regret that
the travellers left this pleasant progressive place where
they had experienced so much friendliness and hospi-
tality. Starting just before midnight on Thursday,
September 2nd, they sped rapidly onwards through
Manitoba. This is the pioneer province, the Red
River Settlement in these fertile valleys being for a
considerable time the only agricultural community of
this western district, and having grown from small
beginnings to its present eminence. Southern Manitoba
is a wheat-growing prairie, whilst the northern parts
of the province are broken by large lakes and vast forests,
the woods and the minerals forming a source of wealth
for many generations yet to come. The climate is
delightful, the air being dry and sunny in the day and

FROM QUEBEC TO VANCOUVER 201

cool at night. Portage la Prairie and Brandon (one of
the largest grain markets in Manitoba) were soon
passed and the Regina plain entered. At the attrac-
tive capital of Saskatchewan the party arrived early
on the 3rd, and were met by many of the leading
inhabitants. Motor drives and walks were taken
during the morning and the chief buildings visited.
The men of the party were publicly entertained at
luncheon in the City Hall, the ladies being received by
the Lieutenant-Governor and his wife at Government
House.

Proceeding onwards to Moose Jaw, another warm
greeting awaited the members. The time has gone
by for regarding the Colonies with coldness or apathy,
and most persons of British race are now interested
in Imperial questions. But even the greatest enthu-
siasts of Imperialism with the expedition, or those
who regarded such matters with aversion as mere
racial prejudice and greed, were equally united in
expressing the opinion that the loyalty of many of the
Canadians, and the warmth of their affection for the
Mother Country, could hardly be estimated by those
who had never travelled through the great Dominion.

In his Inaugural Address at Winnipeg the President's
opening remarks had been received with unmistakable
appreciation when, in speaking of this Canadian visit,
he said :

Men of science welcome it for the increased opportunities
it gives them of studying under the most pleasant and favour-
able conditions different parts of our Empire, and of making
new friends. Such meetings as these not only promote the
progress of science, but also help to strengthen the bonds which
bind together the different portions of the King's Dominions.

At Regina and Moose Jaw the national flag floated
on all public buildings, and under a triumphal arch
erected in the latter city speeches were delivered

202 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

expressive of warm devotion to the Empire, as well as
of hearty welcome. Later in the day, at the banquet
held in the skating rink, the King's health was received
with the utmost enthusiasm, and loyal speeches were
listened to with the same fervour and warmth of feeling.

The province of Saskatchewan is noted as a great
wheat-growing country on account of the fine climate
and fertile soil. Here again the nights are cool
and pleasant even after the hottest days. Western
Canada is growing most rapidly in wealth and
importance, the phenomenal agricultural progress of
the three provinces, Manitoba, Saskatchewan, and
Alberta, forming a remarkable record in the history
of the distant territories of the Empire.

On Saturday, September 4th, a short stay was made
at Gleichen to view a band of Indians, this picturesque
incident adding to the variety of the journey.
Gleichen and the neighbouring stations adjoin the
Blackfeet Indian Reserve.

Early that afternoon Calgary was reached, and on
arriving in Alberta the same cordial welcome was
extended to the visitors as in Saskatchewan and
Manitoba. Here Mrs. and Miss Pinkham, the wife
and daughter of the bishop of the diocese, came to
greet Forbes Julian and his wife. Bishop Pinkham
(whom the present writer had recently met in London)
was unfortunately absent, but the kindness of his
family added much to the pleasure of the day. So it
was that everywhere in Canada the travellers felt at
home in every sense, and scenes which to the eye were
strange seemed familiar through the friendliness of
their hosts and guides. Besides those who were
Canadian-born and thought of Great Britain as of the
land of their forefathers, there were many who had
made the Dominion their home and yet had loyal
longings for the land of their birth, of their family

FROM QUEBEC TO VANCOUVER 203

and friends. The problems confronting the young
and vigorous provinces v^ere freely discussed. Here
these subjects could be approached v^ithout the
influence of those heritages of the past that appear
sometimes to v^eigh so heavily upon the present in
older communities.

It will be readily understood that with a large mixed
population an interesting economic and political situa-
tion is created, and that the questions affecting the
Canadian people are numerous and complex. Forbes
Julian and his wife had the privilege of being present
on more than one occasion when the subject of naval
defence in connection with the maintenance of British
supremacy at the present critical epoch was discussed
by Sir William White and certain leading inhabitants
of the cities through which they passed. Sir William's
admirable summary of the situation was listened to
as the demonstration of a master, and not only with
close attention but also with cordial sympathy.

Calgary is pleasantly placed on a hill-girt plateau,
overlooked by the white peaks of the Rocky Moun-
tains, and it is the most important city on the Canadian
Pacific line between Winnipeg and Vancouver. After
an enjoyable stay, during which many institutions and
public buildings were inspected, the members were
entertained at an evening banquet, and their special
train was entered again at night.

The cathedral appears to be the centre of much
useful work, and a feeling of brotherly co-operation
exists in Alberta between members of the Anglican
Church and those belonging to other Christian bodies,
the only rivalry in social service being an honourable
emulation in good works. Some conversation was
held with Bishop Pinkham's family concerning the
needs of the colonial Churches and various matters,
such as the bringing of Christian teaching to bear on

204 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

the lives of the settlers. The hardships encountered
by the pioneers, the difficulties overcome, and the
sacrifices made for the Empire produce fine and self-
reliant characters ; but in a nev^ and wealthy country
there is frequently a tendency for the people to become
materialistic. When settlers coming from Great
Britain find Anglican, Presbyterian, Roman Catholic,
and Free Churches already established in the Colonies
many of them loyally support their places of worship ;
but if for years they remain out of touch with their
former spiritual life great difficulty is experienced in
again gathering up the threads. The secular education
in Western Canada is excellent, and it is a matter of
importance that the atmosphere of church life at
home should be maintained so as to develop the
vitality of the Christian life and combat the growing
danger that materialism and spiritual apathy might
gain permanent hold on the people.

Alberta contains one of the richest soils in Western
Canada, and has recently made marvellous strides in
grain-producing ; it is also known as a great stock-
raising district. In addition it has mineral wealth
and a bracing climate, the summer and early autumn
being specially delightful. The fertile river-banks are
well wooded with groves of aspen, poplar, and spruce ;
tranquil lakes also diversify the landscape and enhance
its beauty, and the valleys are carpeted with turf and
fragrant with many a wild flower.

The most attractive part of the tour was now at
hand, and on Sunday, September 5th, the travellers
awoke to find themselves in the impressive scenery of
the Rocky Mountains. A bend in the line brings the
train between two almost vertical walls of great height,
this being the Pass by which the mountains are entered.
In approaching the station — appropriately named The
Gap — a marvellous view is obtained of Wind Mountain,

FROM QUEBEC TO VANCOUVER 205

the Three Sisters, and other rocky ramparts of the
district where Nature is seen in her grandest aspect.

After passing the corral with a number of buffaloes,
Banff was the next stopping-place, this being the
station for the National Park, which embraces parts
of the valleys of the Bow, Spray, and Cascade Rivers,
and also Lake Minnewanka, thus preserving a beautiful
bit of country untouched. Here several magnificent
mountains meet the eye. Laggan and lovely Lake
Louise, enshrined amongst the hills, were visited the
same day. Not far distant are Lake Agnes and Mirror
Lake, both of which lie literally above the clouds ;
and the celebrated Valley of the Ten Peaks is within
easy access. The quiet Sunday spent amongst such
surroundings was much valued, these scenes of mar-
vellous majesty and grandeur being calculated to
impress the mind with profound reverence and awe.

The beauty of Lake Louise is too famous to need
further description, with its varying green, blue, and
purple shadows, which change with every hour of the day.

Field (with the well-known fossil beds) was soon
reached, and the following day many hours were spent
in viewing the Illecillewaet glacier in British Columbia.
The mountain peaks. Sir Donald, the Eagle, the
Avalanche, Roger's Pass, the Selkirks, and the Hermit
range, seen towering above and lifting their bold
peaks and snow-capped summits far into the blue sky,
made up a series of supremely beautiful pictures which
will be long remembered, and especially the sunrise in
the heart of the mountains. The mighty glacier with
its surface lit up and flecked with many hues in the
sunlight aroused great enthusiasm, particularly amongst
the geological members, who were deeply impressed
by its beauty and interest. On the walk through the
winding wooded paths from the station to the glacier,
Forbes Julian and his wife had the pleasure of accom-

2o6 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

panying Dr. Smith Woodward, as the distinguished
scientist was with the party, being President of the
Geological Section. The whole of the journey from
Calgary to Vancouver (a distance of considerably over
six hundred miles) is remarkable for the romantic
character of the scenery, the mountains and valleys
where the shadows lie darkly forming a striking con-
trast to the sunlit prairies.

Arriving at Vancouver early on Tuesday, Septem-
ber 7th, the morning was spent at this picturesque place,
the Pacific terminus of the railway. The city has
already many fine buildings, abundant prosperity
being everywhere evident, whilst its growing commer-
cial advantages and rapidly increasing resources be-
speak a still greater future. It is a centre of much
activity, its mercantile and social eminence having been
achieved in the last quarter of a century. The com-
modious land-locked harbour, with the excellent
steamship service of the Pacific, has added greatly
to its importance and prosperity. Its chief attraction
is Stanley Park, which with the magnificent trees of
gigantic growth forms one of the noted pleasure
resorts of the continent.

Crossing by the Canadian Pacific steamer Princess
Charlotte to Victoria on Vancouver Island, the
travellers took up their residence at the Empress
Hotel, which commands a fine view of the harbour.
Victoria has been aptly described as " a transplanted
section of old England " ; the climate has the softness
of Devonshire, and the town is peculiarly English
in some of its characteristics. It is situated at the
southern extremity of the island, overlooking the
Straits of Fuca to the Pacific and the Gulf of Georgia
towards the mainland. Owing to the clear atmosphere
Mount Baker, situated eighty miles away in the
United States, can be distinctly seen. In the evening

FROM QUEBEC TO VANCOUVER 207

a reception was attended at the Parliament House,
which is a most imposing building. On the
following day one of the residents, Dr. Proud-
foot, kindly took Sir Duncan Johnston and Forbes
Julian and his wife for a long motoring expedition,
passing through the naval station of Esquimalt and
some of the most beautiful scenery in the island.
They returned in time to bid adieu to the other
members of the Association who were starting for
Vancouver and Winnipeg. The metallurgist had
wished to continue the tour to Australia, but time
did not permit of this. He, however, was anxious
to take his wife to see San Francisco, and to return
eastwards through the States ; he was also desirous of
visiting some mining men at Grass Valley. Although
this suggested a pleasant programme, they parted
from their friends with much regret. Nearly a month
had been spent with several members, mineralogists
and geologists whom they had joined at Cobalt. The
tour had been in every way enjoyable. It had brought
Forbes Julian into contact with several leaders of
British science, and he had formed acquaintance
(and in some cases friendships) with many Canadians
famous in the mining world whilst traversing the
continent from Quebec to Vancouver.

A further short stay was made in the island. This
enabled him and his wife to become better acquainted
with the pleasant city of Victoria and its impressive
Government buildings, and to enjoy drives and walks
taken amongst park-like groves with the fine trees for
which British Columbia is celebrated. Leaving soon
afterwards for Seattle, in the United States, the short
voyage was much enjoyed, with the fair expanse of
ocean, bright blue and beautiful, bearing on its waters
yachts and boats of all kinds, spreading their sails
before the Pacific breeze.

2o8 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

At Seattle the important Alaska-Yukon-Pacific
Exposition was visited, which gave some idea of the
great potentialities of the Alaska and Yukon terri-
tories both to the United States and Canada.

From Seattle they struck southward for Portland,
where a short time was passed in this charming district
of Oregon, a drive taken on the Portland Heights
furnishing many varied and extensive views.

Leaving Portland, they proceeded by rail to Oakland,
and crossing to San Francisco, were soon settled at
the Hotel St. Francis (facing Union Square in the
heart of the city), which had been the metallurgist's
headquarters during the previous autumn. Here he
was welcomed by an English friend, Mr. G. S. Simpson,
and some mining men of the district, and it afforded
him much pleasure to take his wife to Golden Gate
and Cliff House, where the glorious views have long
been famous. In spite of the indescribable chaos and
confusion caused by the earthquake and the fire,
traces of which are still visible at every turn, the city,
like other American centres, throbs with life and move-
ment. Electric trams speed by in various directions;
wagons driven by black men roll noisily through the
streets ; pedestrians, including many Orientals, crowd
the side walks ; carriages and motors flash past in
apparently interminable lines. The city is much more
attractive than New York or Chicago, and the lovely
views obtained of the Pacific were greatly appreciated,
the harbour being one of the most beautiful in the
world. The remarkable progress of California during
the last half-century is typical of the rapid methods of
American business enterprise. The fine foliage was
much admired, but at Sacramento, which was the
next stopping-place, the flowers and plants were even
richer and more varied. The mining district of Grass
Valley, situated in the midst of charming Californian

FROM QUEBEC TO VANCOUVER 209

scenery, was also visited, where some acquaintances
were met with. Continuing their journey eastward,
they proceeded through Nevada.

In Utah, after passing the Great Salt Lake, a short
stay was made at Ogden. The journey was then
continued through the States of Wyoming, Nebraska,
and Iowa to Illinois, only a short time being spent in
Chicago, where the lake is the chief attraction.

This busy centre (which Forbes Julian had frequently
visited) is not a city of one race but of several with
its vast tide of humanity. Here great enterprises are
undertaken and remarkable industrial results accom-
plished. However, its chief features have been so
fully described by other travellers that any further
account is unnecessary.

Leaving for Buffalo, it was disappointing that time
did not permit the continuing of their journey to
Toronto, as they were so near Canada ; but they were
obliged to hasten southwards to New York.

During this journey across the continent they had
fortunately secured a private compartment, otherwise
they would have been in the Pullman car with its
numerous occupants. In these cars travellers have to
go into their berths fully dressed and, after fastening
the curtain, to undress in a cramped and crouching
position. The unpleasant character of a long journey
under such conditions can readily be imagined.

The general holiday prevailing in New York for the
Hudson-Fulton celebrations enabled the metallurgist
to spare a day to see the picturesque pageant with his
wife. October and November were spent at Atlantic
Highlands, in New Jersey, where they enjoyed the
society of Mrs. Briggs, the widow of an Episcopal
clergyman of New York and daughter of the late
General Duryea of the Northern Army. This lady's
two sons (both officers in the United States army)

2IO HENRY FORBES JULIAN

often visited their mother, and related many incidents
of the Cuban War, in which they had been engaged.
This was the more interesting to the visitors as they
had also gathered trustworthy accounts, from the
Spanish point of view, from their friend Madame la
Comtesse de Alcoy, whose late father-in-law some years
previously had been commander of the troops in the
island.

In October Sir William and Lady White sailed for
England on the R.M.S. Mauretania, and the metal-
lurgist and his wife were present to bid them and other
friends good-bye.

Through Sir William's presidency of the Engineering
Section, to which he had induced Forbes Julian to
contribute a paper, and from their having been the
two guests specially entertained by Devonians at the
banquet in Winnipeg ; and also owing to the close
association which the long journey on the British
Association train had brought about, the metallurgist
obtained frequent opportunities of cementing a friend-
ship with one whose scientific attainments he had long
admired. The sister ship, the Lusitania, had been
inspected in the spring, so that it was of additional
interest to have some of the special features of the
great liner explained by such a well-known expert in
nautical matters, and it will be easily imagined how
clear and illuminating the eminent naval constructor
made every detail on which he touched.

During October and November Forbes Julian was
closely engaged with technical matters in New York
in collaboration with Dr. Chandler and Mr. Harold
Binney, throwing himself with renewed enthusiasm
into this work, after the various visits made to mining
centres in other parts of the States and in Canada.

CHAPTER XVII
FOUR VOYAGES ACROSS THE ATLANTIC

AFTER spending the remainder of the autumn
in New Jersey, the travellers returned to
^ England by the R.M.S. Oceanic, They
landed at Plymouth by tender (whilst the steamer
anchored to put off the mails) at four o'clock on a
bleak December morning — anxious to reach their
home expeditiously — and arrived at Torquay not long
afterwards.

The home voyage had been marked by stormy
weather from the commencement, the sea running in
great ridges and the Oceanic mounting the crest of
the waves and dashing clouds of glittering spray over
the wild waste of waters. Though able to enjoy the
trip in spite of the prevalent gales, they saw but little
of their fellow-passengers, as many were suffering
severely the whole way. Out of nearly a hundred
saloon passengers a mere handful appeared for meals
or ventured for a walk on the upper deck. The details
of this crossing were uneventful, although a week at
sea seemed ever enjoyable to Forbes Julian, to whom
the sight of a ship, the society of sailors, and the
incidents of a sea voyage were always a great pleasure,
sufficing to inspirit him, however fatigued by overwork
he might have felt on starting.

On arriving safely in England after the stormy
passage and the long interval of ten months abroad,
he was glad to revisit his old haunts in Torquay, for
his fondness for travelling and a wider life never

zii

212 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

weakened his love of home. When a few days had
been spent in Devonshire, however, he hastened to
London, where the usual Board meetings and corre-
spondence awaited him at the office of the Butters
Company. He also again took up active participation
in research work, assisted by the fresh facts observed
in the course of his journeys.

Pleased to be in town after prolonged absence and
to meet Mr. Rickard and other associates, he wrote
home in December describing his movements and his
meetings with friends.

Christmas was spent at home, and in January 1910
he attended in town one of the Friday evening lectures
in Albemarle Street given by Sir James Dewar, seeing
many familiar faces amongst the audience. He writes :

... I reached the Royal Institution a few minutes after
eight o'clock . . . and saw Sir William Crookes, Professor
Silvanus Thompson, Mrs. Ayrton, Miss Gladstone, Major
and Mrs. MacMahon . . . and a host of others, who asked
for you, and many of them kindly wanted me to look them
up. . . .

During his week-end visits at home, gatherings given
by Sir Peter and Lady Lumsden, Sir Francis and
Lady Layland-Barratt at the Manor House, Colonel
and Mrs. Cary, and other Torquay friends afforded
opportunities of seeing many Devonian neighbours
and acquaintance.

At the beginning of February he heard of the gold-
fever in Canada, whither many people were already
flocking in hot haste. It will be seen that his thoughts
were more concerned with quiet country life than
with the acquisition of wealth. He wrote home :

There seems to be considerable excitement in Canada about
the new gold-rush north of Cobalt. It is said that thousands
have already gone there, and I hear Mr. Butters was amongst

FOUR VOYAGES ACROSS ATLANTIC 213

them. It must be intensely cold there now. I would rather
be in Devonshire. This is a fine frosty day, and I expect it
is perfectly beautiful in Torquay. . . .

Always deeply interested in the great Dominion,
he enjoyed later in the month going to a Canadian
reception at South Kensington, and wrote the follow-
ing account of it to his wife :

I have just returned from the Maple-leaf party. There
were numbers of people present. I do not think there were
many other members of the British Association, but I saw
Lady Knightley of Fawsley and Miss Williams. I got there
about four o'clock, and heard some French-Canadian recitations
that were very well given, and also several charming French-
Canadian songs. The best part of the whole entertainment
was Miss Cameron's lecture on her travels in the North-west.
She has an excellent flow of language, and with a large number
of fine slides made her subject very attractive. Whilst tea was
going on I went into another room, where some good slides
were being shown of the scenery we visited on the Canadian
Northern Railway. After that I returned to hear the second
part of Miss Cameron's lecture, which was not over until
a quarter to seven. I was glad to read in one of the mining
papers that our friend. Professor Coleman of Toronto, has been
awarded the Murchison Medal from the Geological Society
this year.

On February 15th Sir Ernest Shackleton lectured at
Torquay on the Antarctic Expedition, and it was a
pleasure to meet him and Lady Shackleton again and
to hear the recital of his remarkable exploit, which
(as regarded his own achievements in recording how the
dangers of the way, the pitiless cold, and other diffi-
culties were overcome) was more than modest. In a
conversation after the lecture he described, in his
cheery and light-hearted manner, further details of
the journey.

A letter received from Professor Harley later in the
month alludes to Forbes Julian's wish to visit Australia,

214 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

and gives a glimpse of the mathematician's activities,
of his meeting w^ith the Bishop of London, and their
mutual interest in temperance v^ork.

Athen-eum Club,

22nd Feh,, 1910.

It was kind of you to remember my birthday in January.
It is certainly something to have passed my eighty-second
milestone. Truly, goodness and mercy have followed me all
the days of my life.

I was interested in your remarks about the Americans and
your Canadian experiences. I wish you could have gone on
from Vancouver to Australia (as you desired), for then I
could have compared notes with you. Last week at our
monthly meeting of the London Board of Congregationalists
we were favoured with a visit from the Bishop of London. He
came early, had tea with us, and won all hearts by his brother-
liness. The secretary introduced me to him and we talked
together about a variety of things, such as the Athenaeum Club,
the late Archbishop Temple, Oxford, temperance, &c. He
wanted to know if our men were keen on temperance, as
that was one of the things he was going to speak to us about.
His subject was "Our Common Enemy," which he said was
hydra-headed — drink, impurity, subtle unbelief, worldliness,
&c. He told us that he was made a teetotaller by a brick-
bat ! Some years ago he was taken to a temperance meeting
by two good women. Friends of " the trade " were trying
to upset the meeting, but he and others resolved that they
should not do so. There was a great row, and a brickbat
was thrown at his head, missing him by only a quarter of an
inch. That did the business ! He has been a teetotaller ever
since. He gave us a clear, earnest, straightforward talk.

Have you gone back to America yet for that prolonged law
trial ? You will be thankful when you have not to leave
home in this hurried way.

In the middle of March a cable was received from
New York begging Forbes Julian to come out im-
mediately. This intelligence was communicated to
his wife in the following note from London, dated
March 1 6th :

FOUR VOYAGES ACROSS ATLANTIC 215

On arriving at the office this morning I found a cable asking
me to be in New York about the 30th. I went immediately
to see what boats were sailing, and found the most suitable
were the Adriatic or the Kaiser Wilhelm II. I hope to go
down to Torquay by early train on Friday, and this will give
us three or four days together before leaving. I should like
to have had Easter with you, but perhaps I shall be able to
get back soon, as I want so much to have this summer at home.

Returning to Torquay on March i8th, he had the
pleasure of meeting several friends the same afternoon
— Lady Selina Stuart, Lady Olpherts, Colonel Aplin,
Mr. Alfred Davis (a civil engineer), and others coming
in to see him and his v^^ife before his departure. On
the 19th his aunt, Miss Neligan, arrived from Croydon
to spend a few days at " Redholme," and an interesting
engagement v^as formed to meet Sir John and Lady
Kirk at a friend's residence, Argyll Hall, when the
former gave some account of his life-work passed in
the cause of helping neglected and suffering children,
in the prosecution of which he has displayed such
great steadfastness and faithful devotion. The metal-
lurgist's love of children and care for their welfare
was not the least important of his characteristics,
and shows how little his heart was hardened by the
passing of the years.

From off Queenstown he wrote to his wife on
March 24th from the R.M.S. Adriatic as follows :

We left Southampton punctually at 11 o'clock and arrived
at Cherbourg at 6, as the sun was disappearing behind the
horizon like a ball of fire and the moon (which is nearly full)
was just arranging (as they say in Ireland) " to serve us for
lamplight all night in the dark." . . . The ship is fairly well
filled. At table there is a pleasant young Canadian next me.
He comes from Ontario, and crosses very often. Next to him
is Mr. Allen, a kindred spirit, since he is a cyanide man who
has travelled a great deal. There are large numbers of
English people on board, a party of French, and some Americans.

2i6 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

Almost immediately after he left England a letter
had been received from his Canadian friend, Mr.
Leonard, who was anxious to secure his professional
services, but, unfortunately, Forbes Julian was unable
to undertake any technical work for him. In a letter
to the present writer two years later Mr. Leonard
says :

If his services had been available, there was no one whose
advice in that particular line I would consider of equal
authority.

Mr. and Mrs. Leonard had been in London during
March, and had just missed seeing him. Writing
home from the Murray Hill Hotel, New York, on
April 5th, Forbes Julian says :

When I got to the office on Saturday morning I found your
letter enclosing the one from Mr. Leonard. What a pity I
did not see him in London ! . . . I have been to see Phelps,
Dodge, and Co., the great company with whom Colonel' Weir
used to be connected. They asked Johnston to bring me over
to see them, and I think they would like me to help them
in the development of a new process, but (as yet) nothing has
matured. . . .

Early in April he had the pleasure of meeting Mr.
Greig and Lieutenant Briggs, whom he had known at
Atlantic Highlands. Frequent mention is made in
letters home during the spring of visits to the Players'
Club, and also to Bronx Park, revealing his sympathy
with the animal world.

Writing on April 12th, 1910, he says :

. . . People are interested in this big copper process scheme
that promises such great things. If successful it may be
almost as important as the cyanide process. This evening
a friend drove me in his motor from the office to the hotel.
On the way we stopped at the Players' Club, and he put me up
for a fortnight. This is one of the most interesting places I
have seen in New York. It is in a fine old mansion left for

FOUR VOYAGES ACROSS ATLANTIC 217

the purpose by Brooks, the great actor. The walls are covered
with pictures and relics, everything being most Bohemian.
There are no formal introductions amongst members, and
everyone is expected to speak to other members and be on
friendly terms. The Club has a library of rare books, and
altogether the place is most picturesque. Sunday was a
brilliant day with a pleasant, cool breeze, and I hastened early
out of town to see the animals at Bronx Park.

The middle of the month found him settled at
Montclair enjoying the beautiful scenery of New
Jersey, the fine golf links, and country life of that
pleasant locality.

At the end of April he had the pleasure of meeting
Mr. Leonard in New York and acting as his guide to
General Grant's tomb and the Central Park, when
various metallurgical investigations were discussed.

Montclair,
New Jersey,

26th April, 1910.

On Saturday morning I went to the Cunard Pier to meet
the Campania, which was expected about lo o'clock. Mr. and
Mrs. Leonard were very glad to have some one to meet them.
They were not leaving until the 6 p.m. train, and we first drove
to the Belmont Hotel and then went in a motor to Grant's
tomb. They wanted to see this because an American, on
the way out, told them what a fine thing it was. Mr. Leonard,
who had recently seen Napoleon's tomb in Paris, said that
he thought " they might have done better for their idol."
Afterwards we wandered about the Central Park. The trees,
creepers, and flowering shrubs are just now looking lovely, and
they were delighted with the park.

We next went back to the Belmont Hotel, and then I saw
them off. I had a very interesting cyanide conversation with
Mr. Leonard. ... He was much interested in the new copper
process, and told me he had purchased a copper mine in
Canada. ... He wants me to go to them for a week or so
when I have time. . . .

It will be remembered with what sincere sympathy

2i8 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

and sorrow the news of the death of King Edward
was received in the States ; a further proof of this is
afforded by the next letter, which shows how much
he was in the thoughts of those in the New World.

MONTCLAIR, N.J.,

loth May, 1910.
The only subject talked about since Saturday was the King's
death. It was a shock that no one was prepared for. The
papers here speak very warmly of him, and I hear that the
pew that he used at Trinity Church when he visited New York
as Prince of Wales is screened off and draped in black. On
Saturday all the business houses had flags flying half-mast, and
the exchanges closed immediately after opening. It is a
great loss, and very sad that the King could not be spared to
see the affairs of State more settled. King George will have
a hard task before him. . . .

Beautiful spring weather was now being experienced
in New Jersey, and the quiet Sundays there were a
source of relief and refreshment after the rush and
restless life of the great city. On May 17th, writing
from Montclair, he says :

I went to the office on Saturday morning, but got back to
Montclair early, and had a pleasant afternoon watching a
baseball game and (later) the golfers. Montclair is a beautiful
place. Sunday was glorious and I had a delightful walk over
the " mountain," which is a wooded hill about two hundred
feet high. The wild flowers were in bloom, and I collected
a large bunch of violets and found a beautiful orchid. The
wild cherry and the peach-trees, and numerous flowering
shrubs, make the scene most picturesque. . . . Afterwards
I joined Greig and his friends, so I had practically the whole
day out of doors. . . .

On Friday there is to be a memorial service for the late
King at Trinity Church, and I much wish to attend it.

Writing on May 20th, the day of the King's funeral,
he describes the evidences of mourning in New York
and the demonstrations of loyalty in Canada. The

FOUR VOYAGES ACROSS ATLANTIC 219

keen, if somewhat unscientific, interest taken by many-
people in the comet is also mentioned.

On Wednesday night the streets and house-tops were full
of people looking out for what might happen as we pass through
the comet's tail ; nothing unusual, of course, occurred, but
the Northern Lights illuminated the sky slightly.

To-day the flags are half-mast throughout the city, and
many of the business places about Wall Street are heavily
draped in black and purple. ... I see in this morning's
paper that the Canadian Pacific Railway has arranged for a
three minutes' cessation of all work on the whole of their
systems ; not a single machine is to move. This is in honour
of the late King.

• • • • «

The copper proposition is still undeveloped. It refers to
a copper-extraction process somewhat on the lines of the
cyanide process, and promises great things. It is patented
by the chief chemist of one of the companies, and he wants
us to take up his patents and apply our knowledge in developing
the process. It will, of course, take a great deal of money to build
the plant and make the test on a commercial scale, but the de-
velopment of this process promises, if successful, to assume an im-
portance in metallurgy almost as great as the cyanide process. . . .

The copper process mentioned in these letters did
not fulfil its early promise. At any rate there is
nothing of the kind which would now bear comparison
with the cyanide process, and two or three such anti-
cipated revolutions did not eventuate, but as a new path-
way of investigation had been opened up by cyanidation,
this made him eager to undertake fresh researches.

References to ex-President Roosevelt occur in the
following letter, as that strenuous statesman was
shortly expected to return to the United States after
his prolonged travels.

MONTCLAIR, N.J.,

ijth Juney 1910.
I hope to be back for the British Association at Sheffield,
but it is too early as yet to say whether I could find time to
prepare a paper to read there. . . . To-morrow Roosevelt

220 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

(the Kaiser of the Americans) is expected to arrive, and his
friends in the Republican party have made great preparations
for his reception. The Democratic papers are full of ridicule
about him, and one of them is publishing a series of letters
headed " How Roosevelt can best serve his country in future."
Most of the letters are not complimentary ! One says, " By
putting a Muzzle on " ; another, " By losing himself in an
African Desert."

In a letter written on June 21st the reception
accorded to ex-President Roosevelt in New York is
briefly described.

On Saturday I v^^as at the office in the morning, and saw from
the window Roosevelt passing along Brdadway. He was at
the moment standing in a carriage with his hat off, smiling
and bowing to the crowd. He was preceded by about fifty
rough-riders on horseback, and there was a band playing and
a great deal of enthusiasm, but his reception must have
appeared very tame after all the demonstrations of welcome
he received and all he went through in Europe and elsewhere.
No doubt in a few months he will be forgotten, like other
great men in this country. . . ,

Towards the end of June Forbes Julian left Mont-
clair and removed with Mr. Greig to Atlantic High-
lands, where he was able (as in the previous year)
to enjoy the boating and bathing.

Writing from Atlantic Highlands on July 1st, he
describes the kindly welcome of his American friends
there, and says :

I had a grand reception, and they had got the Union Jack
to fly, to greet me on my arrival. Greig has been busy all the
week getting his boat ready ; I gave him a hand whenever I
had a little time to spare. Last night we launched her after
an effort and much waiting for the tide. We hope to get a
sail on Monday. I shall spend as much time as I can on the
boat at Atlantic Highlands instead of being in New York.
We are having very hot weather, but the trips on the steamer
in and out are delightful.

FOUR VOYAGES ACROSS ATLANTIC 221

Anxious to visit Mr. Leonard and see for himself
more of the work of Canadian mining men on their
own ground, he was disappointed in being unable to
get away for a projected stay in the Dominion during
the holiday period for the Fourth of July. He wa?,
however, fortunate in enjoying the sea air and charming
surroundings at Atlantic Highlands, for a heat-wave
rendered life in the city extremely oppressive.

Atlantic Highlands,

5//; July^ 1910.

I left for Atlantic Highlands by an early steamer on Friday
afternoon in the hope of escaping the crowds going away for
the Fourth of July, but the boat was packed. It was very
hot, which made everyone who could get off rush for the
country as soon as possible. Saturday and Sunday were still
hotter without a breath of wind, and every boat as it arrived
at Atlantic Highlands was crammed. We were told that the
piers in New York were crowded with people vainly trying to
escape from the city. Greig and I spent Saturday and Sunday
on his boat.

On Monday morning a cool wind sprang up, and the day
was glorious. All the oppressive heat was gone, and the air
became delightfully bracing. We started early, when. there
was a good stiff breeze, and went across to the Hook and
made about a thirty-mile detour. It was a lovely sail. . . .

The Fourth of July dawned with the usual noise of crackers
and guns, and in the evening there was a display of fireworks.

In the following letter he alludes to his wife's visit
to the Royal Society, when an interesting paper was
given by Mr. Clement Reid dealing with the Bovey
Tracey deposits, which had previously been investi-
gated by Mr. Pengelly and his colleague, Dr. Heer of
Zurich.

Sir Archibald Geikie, the President, paid a warm
tribute after the reading of the paper to the labours
and the memory of his old friend Mr. Pengelly.

On the other side of the Atlantic Forbes Julian

222 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

followed with much attention the work of many of
the London scientific societies, for his interests were
not confined to his own inquiries, but his mind ranged
over many departments of knowledge, and he showed
keen sympathy with their advancement.

Atlantic Highlands,

12th July^ 1 910.

I was very pleased to hear all about the Royal Society. I
should so much like to have been with you. ... I am glad
to have the abstracts of those physical papers you sent, and
will read them in the boat this afternoon. I was also delighted
to hear about the Bovey Tracey paper by Mr. Clement Reid
and the references to your father's work. . . .

On Friday afternoon I caught an early steamer back from
New York so as to enjoy the cool sea breezes. I did not go
into the city on Saturday, but at 6 a.m. four of us went for
an early walk in the woods. All being interested in botany,
we made a good collection and brought back many specimens.
On Sunday afternoon there was a stiff breeze, so that we were
able to have a delightful sail. In the evening we discussed
theosophy, Briggs being very amusing in his racy American
way. . . . Two lady artists have taken his bungalow, and
Briggs went to see them, and gave us a most graphic account
of the interview. One of these ladies seems to be a championess
in everything — swims several miles out from shore, sails her
own boat, boxes, and wears men's boots ! Her companion is
a fragile creature, but is equally active and energetic in her
own way.

You will be interested to he^r that Mr. Leonard has been
appointed one of the Governors of Toronto University, to
fill the vacancy caused by the death of Goldwin Smith.

At the beginning of August he again crossed the
Atlantic, and landed on the i ith by tender at Plymouth
in the small hours of the morning.

Leaving New York at a few hours' notice and taking
the first steamer available, he was unable to obtain
a cabin to himself, but this really enhanced the
pleasure of the voyage, as his companion in the state-

FOUR VOYAGES ACROSS ATLANTIC 223

room was Captain Harlow, a distinguished officer of
the United States Navy and a genial companion with
whom he became very friendly.

On the afternoon of his arrival he and his wife were
present at a garden-party in the historic grounds of
Torre Abbey (formerly one of the great Houses of the
Premonstratensian Order of Canons in England) given
by Colonel and Mrs. Cary. As the gathering was
numerously attended, it enabled him to exchange
greetings with a large circle of friends, by whom he
was warmly welcomed.

Being much interested in the Naval manoeuvres
taking place, it was naturally a disappointment to
have been too late to witness the inspection of the
combined fleet of battleships held by His Majesty
King George a few days earlier in Torbay. This
was the first review held by our sailor King, whose
interest in naval matters has remained so keen ever
since the period of his own blue- water days. To all
Devonians, especially to those dwelling near Plymouth
or Dartmouth, the nursery of so many distinguished
sailors, the Navy is a symbol of the strength and
glory of the kingdom.

Having only a month to spend in England, the
metallurgist soon visited London for a few days and
made arrangements concerning the voyage westward
with his wife in September.

It was expected that they would return to England
for Christmas, but the exigencies of his professional
work actually kept them in the States until the
following summer.

At the end of August they left Torquay to attend
the British Association meeting at Sheffield. The
gathering in 1910, although not large, was especially
attractive to them as the President, Professor Bonney,
was an old and valued friend. There was a strong

224 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

body of geologists present, including Sir Archibald
Geikie and Professor Coleman, of Toronto, the latter
being chairman of Section C.

At the Physical Science and Chemical Sections there
were some papers of outstanding scientific merit,
particularly those given by Sir J. J. Thomson on
*' Positive Rays," and by Sir William Ramsay on
" The Molecular Weight of Radium " ; whilst a
joint discussion between Sections A and B on " Gaseous
Combustion " was especially noteworthy from the
fact that Sir J. J. Thomson, Sir Oliver Lodge, Pro-
fessor H. B. Dixon, Professor Smithells, and Professor
Armstrong took part. It was said that the meeting
of 1 910 would be always remembered as that at which
the achievement of at last isolating the positive
electron was announced by Sir J. J. Thomson.

In the midst of this week of scientific activity a
drive through the Dukeries on Saturday with a few
other members was much appreciated. Some lovely
parts of Sherwood Forest were visited, and they were
hospitably entertained at Welbeck Abbey by the
Duke of Portland and at Clumber by the Duke of
Newcastle.

On Sunday morning a service was attended, at
which Dr. Cosmo Lang, the Archbishop of York,
preached to a crowded congregation from the text
*' Wisdom in all ages entering holy souls, maketh them
friends of God." In the afternoon an impressive
address was delivered by Sir Oliver Lodge in one
of the public halls.

A garden-party given by Lord and Lady Fitzwilliam
at Wentworth Woodhouse, the soiree at the Town Hall,
and an evening conversazione held by the Duke and
Duchess of Norfolk at the Museum and Mappin
Art Gallery, with various other receptions, added to
the pleasant social side of the gathering and afforded

FOUR VOYAGES ACROSS ATLANTIC 225

opportunities of meeting friends before the approaching
absence in America.

An invitation to hold the Association meeting in
Australia in 1914 was received at Sheffield and, after
some opposition, v^as finally accepted by the members
of the General Committee. Forbes Julian, being
strongly impressed by the importance of Imperial
unity, v^as naturally in favour of the proposition.
During this v^eek he had the pleasure of becoming
acquainted v^ith Dr. Orme Masson, the well-knov^n
Professor of Chemistry at Melbourne University, one
of the delegates. The metallurgist had long cherished
the hope of visiting Australia, but, unfortunately,
this v^ish remained for ever unfulfilled.

Immediately after attending the last meeting of the
General Committee he left Sheffield with his wife on
their way to London, and, starting by the boat train
for Southampton on the loth, he was glad to find
that Captain Harlow was again to be a fellow-passenger
on the Philadelphia of the American Line. The
voyage was rendered enjoyable from the friendship
formed with a pleasant American family. Their
society and that of Mr. Waterbury and Mr. Faversham,
the actor, with his wife Miss Julie Opp, the gifted
actress, greatly enlivened the week at sea on this
fourth trip across the Atlantic taken by the traveller
within a period of nine months, during a run of
rapidly succeeding voyages.

Landing early on Saturday, September 17th, he and
his wife spent a few days at one of the New York hotels
and then proceeded to New Jersey, settling at Mont-
clair, in the well-known hotel situated on the Watchung
Mountain. The change from New York was pleasant
and beneficial, as the elevation of Montclair Hotel
on the breezy hill-side ensured invigorating air and
gave a coign of vantage from which extensive views

?

226 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

could be obtained in all directions. To the west lies
a picturesque wooded hill country full of pastoral
charm, to the north and east the populous valleys of
the Passaic and Hackensack, whilst beyond flows the
fine Hudson River, giving variety to the landscape
and greatly enhancing its beauty. On the south is
Orange, and not far away are visible Newark, Jersey
City, New York harbour, and Staten Island, with the
sea for a background.

Some time was passed amongst these pleasant
surroundings, Forbes Julian going to and fro daily
to the city to continue his technical labours.

Later in the autumn he had sufficient leisure
to take his wife on a visit to their friends Mr. and
Mrs. Lawrence Dawes, at Pittsfield, Massachusetts,
where their host (a son of the statesman Senator
Dawes) and his wife received them with cordial
hospitality.

Both in the North and South (for Virginia was
visited soon afterwards) their welcome was most kindly,
and as their hostess belonged to one of the old-
established families of New England and had many
relatives settled in the neighbourhood, they had the
opportunity of seeing much of American home life
and enjoying the cultured social atmosphere of a
delightful circle. The neighbourhood of Pittsfield
and Lenox has long been famous as the resort of not
a few men who have stood in the foremost rank of
American literature ; the homestead of Oliver Wendell
Holmes, and Longfellow House (the scene of his
poem " The Old Clock on the Stairs "), and other
famous dwelling-places rich in literary association were
amongst those pointed out to the travellers.

They much enjoyed the drives and motoring expe-
ditions taken through the well- wooded country, bright

FOUR VOYAGES ACROSS ATLANTIC 227

with the varied tints of autumn, or by the river-side,
with fine views of the surrounding Berkshire hills
and the Poutoosic Lake. At every turn water and
woodland, hill and dale clad with grass and flowers,
delight the eye and lend beauty to the scene.

Leaving for Albany after a short stay in Massa-
chusetts, they journeyed northwards to Buffalo,
crossing the border into Canada, where some time
was spent as the guests of Mr. and Mrs. Leonard at
St. Catherine's, this being Forbes Julian's fourth visit
to the Dominion. It was impossible to be staying
in Ontario without devoting time to revisiting old
ground and again studying the Falls of Niagara, which
he had twice previously seen, first in the height of
summer and then in the snows of winter, so that this
third sojourn there, with all the glory of the autumn
foliage, was highly appreciated and afforded a striking
contrast to both the former expeditions, each suc-
ceeding visit only serving to make the sight more
wonderful and impressive of the ever-falling mass of
water with its thunderous sound.

The beauty of the fading leaves makes the autumn
one of the most delightful seasons of the year in Canada.
Then the forests are rich in the most varied colouring —
the elm of a deep yellow, the maple of a bright crimson,
other trees of lovely shades of orange and scarlet.
These tints contrast finely with the masses of dark
green foliage that adorn the landscape, and give an
indescribable charm to the woodland scenery.

Always happy amongst the hospitable Canadian
people and greatly enjoying the discussions with his
host, a fellow-worker in the same field, a man full of
information and well qualified to give an opinion on
matters connected with mining and metallurgy, it was
naturally a disappointment to have to break off this

228 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

pleasant intercourse ; but the time was limited, and
all too soon he and his wife had to leave their kind
entertainers and move southwards. They had been
singularly fortunate in a spell of bright autumnal
weather, but, just as they were preparing for departure,
storms of rain, sleet, and snow heralded the approach
of winter.

CHAPTER XVIII
VIRGINIA

A S soon as Forbes Julian and his wife had
Zjk concluded their Canadian visit they re-
JL ^ turned to New York. After spending some
time there in professional work he found that a
short visit in the South could be arranged, being
anxious to revisit Virginia, through which they had
only journeyed very hurriedly in 1907, the year of the
Tercentenary.

Like other travellers of British race, they found the
Old Dominion specially attractive, and at Richmond,
Alexandria, and many other places the early colonial
houses and churches reminded them forcibly of home.
Virginia was the land where the earliest English
colonists tried to gain a foothold in the New World,
and the first permanent English settlement in America
was made at Jamestown, Virginia, in 1607, by Sir
Thomas Gates and his Company, who obtained a
charter from King James I to plant two colonies in
Virginia. A couple of years later the London Com-
pany succeeded that of Gates, which had merely held
the settlement for this brief period and given to the
world the exciting and well-known adventures of
Captain John Smith. It is stated that the first
settlement on part of the site of Richmond dates
from 1609, and that Fort Charles was built as a defence
against the Indians nearly forty years later. Although
still a small village, it was made the capital of the
State of Virginia in 1779, and for about four years,

229

230 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

from May 1861 until April 1865, Richmond was the
seat of the Confederate Government.

As little or nothing of Forbes Julian's correspondence
during the tour has been preserved, a short account
compiled from journals kept at the time by the present
v^riter may serve to give some idea of the scenes that
came under the travellers' view and of the impressions
received.

^his description of the Southern journey^ like the
account of the Northern tour in Chapter XI, is left in
the first person^ and almost as originally given in the
diary.

Compiled from Mrs. Forbes Julian's Journals

" Whilst at Richmond my husband and I stayed at
the comfortable Jefferson Hotel and received almost as
much courtesy and kindness from the strangers met
with as we could have experienced from old friends.
These Southern families were invariably courteous,
hospitable, and refined.

" We found many of the drives in the neighbourhood
most enjoyable, the views of the surrounding district
and of the River James being extremely fine. The
streets are wide, well paved, and well lighted, and no
unsightly elevated railways or huge skyscrapers dis-
figure the pleasant capital of the South. The climate
is mild and genial, but varies greatly in different parts
of the State. It seemed like summer to us, after so
recently leaving sleet and snow in Canada.

" Our attention during our stay at the former capital
of the fallen Confederacy was particularly directed to
the memorials of the Civil War, and indeed almost
everything there was calculated to concentrate our
thoughts on the awful struggle of half a century ago,
when some of the fiercest and most hardly contested
battles took place near the city. Less than 120 miles

VIRGINIA 231

separated the rival capitals of the Union and the
Confederacy, for Richmond is only 116 miles south-
west from Washington. It is about the same distance
above the entrance of Chesapeake Bay, and is situated
on the northern side of the James River at the point
w^here the lov^rer falls mark the limit of the tide
ascending from the Chesapeake. It is built on a group
of several hills, and on the other side of the James,
connected by bridges, stands the suburb called Man-
chester. We drove over there one afternoon and
obtained an extensive viev^ of the city, looking across
the shining reaches of the river. Main Street is a
fine thoroughfare of the old Southern style, the large
portion that was destroyed in the conflagration of
1865 (^t t^^ close of the Civil War) having been
rebuilt in keeping with the houses that escaped the
fire. The parks and public gardens are planted with
fine trees and flowering shrubs, and in some of its
general features Richmond reminds one slightly of
Edinburgh.

" Our first visit was to the Capitol or State House,
a conspicuous building situated on the summit of
Shockoe Hill. It was designed by Thomas Jefferson
after the model of the Maison Carree of Nimes.
Under the dome of the central hall we saw Houdon's
marble statue of Washington, and near the western
gates of the Capitol Square we also inspected Craw-
ford's bronze equestrian statue of the same leader.
Many historic scenes have taken place in the Capitol.
Aaron Burr was tried for treason there in 1807, and
it was used from 1861 to 1865 as the meeting-place of
the Confederate Congress. The central building dates
from 1789, but the two wings were recently added.
Quite near is the Executive Mansion, a simple old-
fashioned house, where Governor Letcher of Con-
federate fame entertained King Edward when (as

232 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

Prince of Wales) he visited Richmond in i860, shortly
before the war. The State Library adjoins the
Capitol ; here we found a valuable collection of
historical portraits and papers, this being the most
important library in the South. We saw the
first Virginian newspaper which published the cele-
brated Declaration of Independence in full, dated
July 26th, 1 776. We were also shown many historical
papers and writings, including autograph letters of
Washington and Lafayette, the Bail Bond of the
Confederate President Jefferson Davis (signed by
Horace Greeley and Cornelius Vanderbilt), and some
* war letters ' from General Robert E. Lee, with the
last letter written to him by Stonewall Jackson just
before the latter was fatally wounded at the battle of
Chancellors ville.

" The portraits included paintings of General Lee,
General Pickett, of Gettysburg fame, Stonewall Jackson,
General J. E. B. Stuart, and other well-known Con-
federates, in addition to those of George Washington,
Patrick Henry, Thomas Jefferson, Henry Clay, and
other celebrated Virginians of an earlier generation,
besides a curious picture of the Princess Pocahontas.

" We also saw the Great Seal of the Confederacy, and
the Southern flag which was used on the State Capitol
and on all the public buildings during the war. It
was unfurled for our inspection by an old Confederate
soldier with loving respect and pride.

" We paid a pleasant visit to the * White House of
the Confederacy,' where we were kindly received by
Miss Isabel Maury, a member of the ' Society of the
United Daughters of the Confederacy.' This man-
sion was the official home of Jefferson Davis whilst he
was President, and is now used as a Confederate
museum. Miss Maury pointed out all the valuable
war relics and portraits, and told us much of interest

VIRGINIA 233

concerning General Lee and President Jefferson Davis,
both of whom she had known when a girl.

'^We saw other war memorials at the Virginian
Historical Society's unpretending building in Franklin
Street. This was the home of General Lee's family-
after their ^beautiful Virginian estate at Arlington
had been seized by the army of the North, and
here he resided when on his brief visits from the seat
of war. The city has several fine statues of the
Southern generals, those of Lee by the French sculptor
Mercier, of Stonewall Jackson by the sculptor Foley
(given by English admirers), and of J. E. B. Stuart, the
dashing cavalry leader, by Moynihan, being specially
noteworthy. Stuart was mortally wounded at one of
the later battles fought at Yellow Tavern in 1864.
He had just defeated the Northern army under
General Sheridan, which was encamped only a few
miles north-east of Richmond, and the city was saved —
but at great cost.

" It will be remembered that at the commencement
of hostilities the Federal army under General Mac-
Dowell had been defeated by the Confederates at
Bull Run, and that MacDowell was succeeded by
McClellan.

''We drove out one day to inspect the battlefield
of Seven Pines or Fair Oaks, where Lee defeated
McClellan ; the old fortifications and breastworks
may still be discerned. In the adjoining military
cemetery lie buried numberless soldiers who took part
in the engagement. Other great battlefields which we
saw were Mechanicsville, Cold Harbor, Chancellors-
ville, and Gaines Mill. A fine granite monument at
the Hollywood Cemetery marks the resting-place of
many thousands of Confederate warriors ; and there
are also memorials of President Jefferson Davis,
General Stuart, General Pickett, and other distin-

234 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

guished persons. We remarked that the grounds were
beautifully kept, and were informed by a Richmond
lady who acted as our guide that the graves of the
beloved dead were under the special charge of the
* United Daughters of the Confederacy.'

" It is remarkable that both the rival Presidents,
Abraham Lincoln and Jefferson Davis, the arbiters of
their country's destiny, were Southerners and Kentucky
men. The striking career of Lincoln appealed to
the imagination of numberless people through his
marvellous rise from being first a labourer, then a
clerk, afterwards a deputy surveyor and lawyer, and
finally President,

"It is well known that before the war a feeling of
aversion to slavery was spreading amongst many
thoughtful people in the South. In Maryland and
Kentucky the number of slaves had decreased ; whilst
in Virginia the institution, though bequeathed to
them, was thoroughly disliked by large numbers of
the best public men, and some of them imitated the
example of Washington, whose dying bequest gave
freedom to his slaves. His contemporary, Patrick
Henry, however, who uttered in the Virginian Con-
vention of 1775 the famous words, * Give me liberty
or give me death,' was not only a holder but also a
buyer of slaves.

" We visited St. John's Church at Richmond where
he made this oft-quoted speech. The spot where he
stood is marked with a white tablet, the pews, sounding-
board, and baptismal font being the same that were
used before the Revolutionary War. There are several
fine places of worship in the city, including the
Roman Catholic cathedral, and we were specially
interested in St. Paul's Episcopal Church. Here Mr.
Davenport, one of the vestrymen, kindly showed us
over the building, which we had already seen under

VIRGINIA 235

the guidance of the verger, a coloured man. It con-
tains fine stained-glass memorial windows to General
Lee and President Jefferson Davis ; and Mr. Daven-
port rendered a graphic account of the service which
he attended as a boy on that memorable Sunday morn-
ing of April 2nd, 1865, when a telegram from General
Lee was delivered to the President at church stating
that Richmond must be evacuated. "^

"Virginia has produced a remarkable number of
truly great men, foremost amongst whom stand George
Washington and Robert E. Lee. We visited Mount
Vernon and Arlington, the homes of these famous
leaders, and found much worth seeing in these beautiful
and historic places, which (though situated in Virginia)
are both much nearer to Washington than to the
Southern capital.

" Mount Vernon, the home of George Washington,
is finely placed on the Virginian side of the Potomac
River. The picturesque mansion was built in 1743 ;
it has two stories, and attics with dormer windows.
In front of the house are pleasant lawns, and also a
fine deer park. In the rear are beautiful gardens and
orchards, with all the usual outbuildings of a Virginian
farm.

" Coming to live there soon after his marriage with
Martha Custis in 1759, Washington carried on farming
until called to the field. He returned to Mount
Vernon after Yorktown, and again after his Presidency.
His residence there for so many years, and the presence
of his tomb in the grounds, have made Mount Vernon
one of the most memorable places in the South.

" At Alexandria in Virginia we saw the quaint old
church, containing the unaltered pews of General
Washington and of General Lee, both these distin-
guished soldiers having been vestrymen of Christ
Church, Alexandria.

236 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

''Whilst in this neighbourhood we went on to
Arlington, formerly the home of General Lee, into
whose possession it passed after his marriage with
Mary Custis. The family mansion stands on the brow
of a lofty hill, whose slope stretches away to the
Potomac River. The view we obtained here with the
fine expanse of water highly delighted us, and all this
part of Virginia is very picturesque and striking, the
Potomac River being justly famed for the scenery on
its banks, Chesapeake Bay also being considered one of
the most charming stretches of water in the world.
The Arlington grounds are of great beauty, with
fragrant flower-beds and grassy lawns, the hill-sides
being covered with fine oak-trees. We spent much
time rambling about in this spot so full of associations
with the past.

" When the Federal troops took possession of Arling-
ton they turned the house into headquarters and the
grounds into a camp. As the war went on, a hospital
was established there, and finally the grounds were
converted into a cemetery for soldiers.

" It is known that General Lee was himself in favour
of the gradual abolition of slavery. His letters, dated
long before the war, show that he recognized the
injustice to the negro and the evil effects upon the
master.

"We were informed that several years before Lincoln's
Emancipation Act Lee had freed the few slaves he had
himself inherited, and that he made arrangements
later for the gradual emancipation of those on the
estate inherited by his wife, Mary Custis, a descendant
of Martha Washington.

"The remains of both the celebrated Confederate
commanders, Lee and Stonewall Jackson, repose at
Lexington in Virginia.

"We were fortunate in numbering among our

VIRGINIA 237

Southern friends a distinguished soldier who had
served as a young officer under these great leaders, and
been with General Lee at Appomattox when he was
forced to surrender to General Grant's superior
numbers, as the Confederate supplies were exhausted
and the gallant band of soldiers reduced to a few
thousands. Our friend told us that even in this
desperate position every Confederate able to bear
arms was still resolute and ready to do battle. His
recollections of their campaigns and of his comrades
were remarkably vivid and striking, even after the
lapse of so many years. He mentioned many stirring
incidents of heroism of which he had been an eye-
witness, and which remained like a picture in his mind,
together with descriptions of his great commander,
whose modesty and nobility of character gained the
respect and affectionate admiration of every man who
served under him.

"When listening to our friend's dramatic descriptions,
the stern realities of the war, with all its strategy and
fine soldiership, seemed to pass in review before us
with the engagements and forced marches as though
we had been present and could have witnessed the
daring and courage of the Southern soldiers, who
fought with invincible spirit against overwhelming
odds, even after the impulse of victory had died
away.

"We found it intensely interesting to study the
history of Lee's campaigns whilst visiting the battle-
fields of Virginia ; and after concluding our stay there
we returned through Washington and Philadelphia to
New Jersey, settling down for the winter at Montclair,
inasmuch as the easy distance from New York rendered
it possible for my husband to go into the city daily to
carry on his technical work."

CHAPTER XIX
BERMUDA

DURING December, as Christmas approached,
It was found that owing to pressure of work
it would be impossible for Forbes Julian to
return in time to spend the festival in England.
However, the hospitality and kindness of American
friends rendered this second Yuletide season spent in
the States a very pleasant period.

Amongst the group of men famous at this time in
New Jersey were the Governor, Dr. Woodrow Wilson,
since elected President of the United States, and Mr.
T. A. Edison, the inventor. The travellers heard
much respecting the work of the former at Princeton
and elsewhere from friends who had long enjoyed the
privilege of his acquaintance, and who gave the
metallurgist introductions to the distinguished
Governor and to the eminent inventor.

Dr. Wilson's writings touch an unaccustomed note
in American politics. He urges his countrymen to
remember that an account must be rendered of the
methods of acquiring wealth, as well as of the means of
disposing of it ; to open their eyes to see that God is
in the world, as well as Mammon ; and to give to the
weary workers some of the sunlight and free air of
which they have been deprived but which were
intended to be equally the birthright of all. His
appeal is to the kindly and sympathetic side of human
nature, and he has been aptly termed " a reformer
wishing to restore, not to destroy."

238

BERMUDA 239

The inventions of Mr. Edison were naturally of
great interest to Forbes Julian, so that in the intervals
of his own work in New York he found much to
attract him in New Jersey. There were also many
recreations, especially in driving and motoring ; and
as colder weather set in, coasting, snow-shoeing, and
sleighing were popular pastimes, together with skating
on the adjacent Verona Lake.

Unfortunately during the winter season of 1910-11
a severe epidemic of influenza attacked many persons
in New Jersey. Forbes Julian was very ill for a short
time, and his wife was completely prostrated for several
weeks. Much cordial kindness was experienced from
American friends sending up books and flowers, with
notes of inquiry, or coming themselves to the sick-
rooms, heedless of the risk of infection. The skilful
attendance of Dr. Synnott, one of Montclair's well-
known physicians (who, coming first as a stranger,
soon became a friend), added to these other alleviations
in helping to pass many tedious hours of convalescence ;
but no hotel, however comfortable, can ever be an
ideal place for illness.

As winter gave way to spring, and his wife still
continued delicate, Forbes Julian consulted Dr.
Synnott as to the advisability of her taking a voyage,
or obtaining change of air, a course which the physician
strongly recommended. Too closely occupied to leave
New York for any considerable period, he was finally
able to arrange to take her to Bermuda, which was
reached after two days and nights at sea, even that
rapid voyage proving very beneficial.

The short visit to this beautiful British colony
afforded them both much pleasure. It was always a
gratification to be under their own flag, and the mild
climate and charming scenery were of great assistance
in promoting recovery.

240 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

A trip to the Bermuda group of islands embraces
much pleasant variety. Passengers are seen waiting
for the tender to take them to the steamers, others are
starting in glass-bottomed boats for the marine gardens,
yachts skim swiftly over the waters, and British soldiers
and sailors are to be met with at every turn. On
landing an animated scene is presented by Front
Street, which is the main thoroughfare of Hamilton
and a lively business centre. On one side it is bordered
by wharves, on which are capacious sheds for protecting
freight. The Bank of Bermuda, the headquarters of
the Royal Yacht Club, and the offices of the steamship
companies are adjacent. In Parliament Street and
Church Street there are other important buildings.
The weather during the winter being delightful
attracts quite an armyof American health- and pleasure-
seekers from New York and other parts. The climate
is essentially marine, so that during the summer
months the heat is never oppressive, the only drawback
being the violent hurricanes that occur occasionally in
the early autumn.

The different islets forming the Bermuda group
have been variously estimated as numbering from a
hundred and fifty to four or five hundred, many being
but bleak and barren rocks, and only a small number
partially covered with verdure. Scarcely twenty are
inhabited, whilst but a few — namely. Great Bermuda,
St. George's, St. David's, Cooper, Somerset, and
Ireland — are of any considerable size. All these have
been connected by causeways and bridges.

Although the strip of land thus formed is barely
twenty-five miles in length and never more than two
or three miles in width, frequently indeed much less,
yet in spite of this limited area Bermuda (hardly
containing twenty square miles, equal to but an eighth
part of the Isle of Wight) is so advantageously laid

BERMUDA 241

out as to possess a hundred miles of excellent roadway.
Formerly the capital was St. George's, but in 1815
the seat of Government was moved to Hamilton, a city
eminently picturesque in respect of its charming
situation and pleasant villas and mansions, with their
broad verandahs and attractive gardens. Here the
travellers landed by tender. The C^istoms examina-
tion afforded a pleasant contrast to the elaborate
ordeal undergone when arriving from England in
New York, the Custom House officer being soon con-
vinced that their belongings were innocent of articles
of a contraband or dutiable character.

One of the most enjoyable expeditions was to view
the caves which render the island famous. The
Crystal Cave with its rich variety of stalactites and
stalagmites in different stages of formation is specially
attractive. It has only recently been discovered, and
was named from the snow-like whiteness of the interior.
Joyce's Dock Cave, near the causeway, is also very
striking both for its great extent and the beauty of its
subterranean halls. Like the Crystal Cave, it can
boast of a lake. It has long been known, and is a
favourite resort both with the islanders and visitors.
The Admiral's Cave is also well worth seeing.

A novel and fascinating feature of Bermuda travel
is the excursion to the Reefs, made by boats with
heavy glass plates at the bottom, through which the
beautiful " marine gardens " may be easily discerned
through the clear and limpid water. Forbes Julian
was specially interested in viewing a diver going down
to cut coral, and in seeing the angel-fish and other
beautiful forms of marine life, in addition to the
striking coral formations. Always attracted by diving
operations, he had himself gone down some years
before in a diving-bell, and had paid a considerable
amount of attention to the subject. The excursion

Q

242 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

to view the marine gardens can only be made in calm
clear weather with a smooth sea, so that visitors are
often obliged to leave the island without having
accomplished it.

A pleasant drive was taken through the Victoria
Park, which is noted for its fine trees and bright
flowers. The oleander flourishes in the islands, and
likewise the Bermuda cedar, whilst groves of palmetto
and hedges of tamarisk are to be seen, as well as the
juniper, rubber, and mulberry tree. The poinsettia,
bougainvillea, bamboo, and aloe are all cultivated in
the gardens, delicate ferns such as the maidenhair are
extremely plentiful, and the hardier osmunda and
bracken abundant. Several English plants are to be
met with, as well as those of a subtropical character,
their great luxuriance of growth being attributable to
the warmth and moisture of the climate.

The aquarium has more than a local celebrity, as
professors and students of marine zoology visit it in
considerable numbers during the summer to carry on
studies at the laboratory.

The importance of Bermuda as a naval station has
long been recognized, and its floating dock is too well
known to need more than a passing reference. It well
repays a visit, and was one of the chief points of
attraction to the travellers.

The colony is administered by a Governor, Council,
and House of Assembly. The Governor is appointed
by the Crown, being usually a general officer of the
Royal Artillery or Royal Engineers. A brother of
Lord Kitchener, Sir W. Kitchener, held the post at
this period (April 191 1), and his death not long after-
wards was a great loss to the community. It was a
pleasure to meet him on this visit.

An enjoyable expedition was made to the quaint
little " Devonshire Church " (with its venerable cedar-

BERMUDA 243

tree, used generations ago as a belfry), the name having
proved attractive from its homelike associations. After
viewing the church and the Spanish Rock with its
curious inscription, supposed to be a record of some
early visitor, the drive was continued to the Flatts at
Harrington Sound. This is a charming piece of
inland sea, and at the beautiful cove may be noted the
varied colours of the water. A lovely panorama of
the inland salt lakes, the islets, and stretches of sandy
beach here greets the eye, the fine views of the silver
sea obtained from all parts of the island, together with
the beauty of the foliage, making up a never-ending
series of exquisite scenic effects. The vegetation is of
rapid growth, and the fields and hillocks or mounds are
clad with a mantle of perpetual green.

As geologists count time, Bermuda is of recent
formation, and is an atoll with a central lagoon pro-
duced through the marvellous labours of the coral
animal. It is worthy of note that, with the exception
of Bermuda, there is not a single coral reef in the
central expanse of the Atlantic.

It will be readily understood that the coast is of a
dangerous character, the islands being encircled by a
chain of fringing reefs and sunken rocks, with only a
small number of navigable openings, all highly intricate
and unsafe unless traversed with the aid of a pilot or
under other experienced guidance. The two light-
houses, situated one at each end of the cluster of
islands, enable passing ships to descry the Bermuda
lights when more than thirty miles away. The islands
of the Great Sound, on which 6000 Boer prisoners
were at one time lodged, aroused considerable interest ;
and here, as at St. Helena, the incidents related by
South African commandants met with in the Trans-
vaal and Orange Free State came back to the mind.
Stories heard from friends in the Southern States of

244 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

America were also recalled respecting the exciting
events of which St. George's was the scene, being the
rendezvous for some of the fast steamers running the
blockade in the days of the Confederacy.

Unfortunately, Forbes Julian was obliged to return
to New York during Easter week, and on Easter Eve
his wife sailed for England, being glad to find some
English friends on the vessel. The metallurgist
returned to New York by the first steamer available a
few days after her departure, spending Easter Sunday
at Hamilton.

Several noteworthy buildings have recently been
erected in the capital, the most important being the
Anglican cathedral, the finest and largest church on
the island. Visiting it with his wife on the afternoon
of Easter Eve, just before she left, he afterwards
accompanied her on the tender to the steamer Avon,
of the Royal Mail Line, and they parted on April 15 th,
the date which in the following year was to usher in a
sadder separation. On Easter Sunday he attended the
parade service of the Garrison Church at Prospect in
the morning, and in the evening was present at the
cathedral for evensong. Writing to his wife after her
departure from Bermuda, he described both these
services.

Hamilton, Bermuda,
iM April, 191 1.
On Easter Sunday I went to the barracks to see the Church
parade. There was about ten minutes* drill before service,
and the band played excellently. A crowd of sightseers was
present. The church is a small iron structure, which was
nearly filled by the soldiers. The civilians crowded in at
the back. I was at the side-door, where only the officers and
their families are allowed to enter. I was shown into a seat
in the pew immediately behind the Governor, Sir W. Kitchener.
. . . The music was supplied by several stringed instruments
and two wind instruments. There were about a dozen choir-

BERMUDA 245

boys. . . . After service the people collected round the band-
stand, and for an hour were treated to selections of music.
In the afternoon I took a long walk, and found myself close
to the ruins of the old floating dock we had seen from the boat.
I passed several pretty villas on the way and some houses with
fair-sized grounds. At the entrance to one of these I saw
the notice :

"Tramps must not, and surely ladies and gentlemen will
not, trespass."

In the evening I went to an impressive service at the cathe-
dral. The Lessons were read by an elderly clergyman and
the preacher was a younger man. . . . The streets were very
quiet. . . .

... I had a good view of the S.S. Avon on Saturday until
she passed behind the land. ... I have made the acquaintance
of some of the people at the hotel, and had a walk round the
town. Easter Sunday was bright and sunny here.

In the next letter home he describes an expedition
to the Coral Reefs in one of the glass-bottomed boats.

Hamilton, Bermuda,

22nd April, 191 1.
I greatly enjoyed the view from my room looking out over
the bay with its pretty islands. I did not take any more
drives after you left, but went for long walks and took trips
on the water. On Wednesday I went to see the coral reefs
in one of the glass-bottomed boats. It was a lovely sight,
just like a miniature forest under water. A diver went down,
and we could see him through the transparent bottom of
the boat cutting specimens of the coral, which were given to
the visitors. Another day I walked out to the lighthouse
along a beautiful road. From the top of the lighthouse I
could see all over the islands. I also went through the
Governor's grounds and along the south shore, which is most
picturesque. The air was cool, and the roads being well kept,
walking was much pleasanter than driving. The day before
I left I took the boat to the Aquarium. . . . The owner of
the boat took us for a long sail round a score of the islands ;
it was perfect fairyland. We sailed all round the islands on
which the Boers were held in captivity, and he gave us an
interesting account of the manner in which they were treated.

246 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

On the whole I had a very pleasant week, but wanted you all
the time. The steamers to New York were so crowded that
I found a difficulty in getting a berth, but finally managed to
get a cabin to myself on the S.S. Oceana, which sails to-day.

On returning to New York he found that the
hearing of the law case was definitely fixed to take
place in the following month at Trenton, in New
Jersey.

Early in May, on his fiftieth birthday, he wrote to
his wife describing a visit to Atlantic City.

New York,

<)th May, 191 1.

. . . Just imagine — fifty to-day ! ... It is lovely weather,
and I should like to go into the country were it not that I
am waiting at the office to hear about to-morrow's proceedings.

I went to Atlantic City on Saturday to meet Binney and
Kenyon. We stayed at the Shelburne Hotel, and soon got
through the finishing touches for the case.

Atlantic City is America's Brighton. Its chief feature
(besides ridding people of their superfluous cash) is the Broad-
walk, a promenade several miles long, elevated over the shore
and built entirely of wood. Here the ladies walk to display
their million-dollar frocks, and when tired of walking, which
appears to be a chronic state, they are pushed along in a sort
of Bath-chair. The procession of these chairs, miles in length,
is quite a curious sight. The country round is sandy, flat, and
uninteresting, and I fail to see what there is besides fresh air
to attract such crowds of people. Two days gave me all that
I wanted of the place. I got back to New York yesterday,
and was accompanied by Kenyon, whom I found a most
interesting companion. We are all to meet to-morrow at
8.30 A.M. to go to Trenton, so I am not returning to Montclair
yet, but staying on a few nights here. I found quite a number
of familiar faces at the hotel in New York. . . .

I will go and see Dr. Synnott soon and tell him how well you
managed the voyage home from Bermuda.

I hear that the St. George's Club had their Annual Dinner
recently in New York, and that our Ambassador, Mr. Bryce,
made the finest speech of the evening. . . .

BERMUDA 247

On May 12th he wrote to his wife from New York
describing the law proceedings at Trenton.

As I mentioned in my last letter, the case was set for hearing
on Wednesday, the loth, but, owing to an urgent matter, the
Court agreed to postpone the case until the next day. Mr.
Kenyon and I met at the Pennsylvania Station and went together
to Trenton. . . . The proceedings were interesting and
exciting, and it was a strenuous day for both sides. The case
terminated about five o'clock. There is not much likelihood
of a decision for some months. The lawsuit is now at an
end as far as I am concerned, with the exception of one or
two conferences next week. I am therefore trying to arrange
to return home. ...

Fortunately, the hearing of the case being now
concluded (although the decision of the judge could
not be known for some months), the metallurgist was
free to commence preparations for departure. He
wrote to his wife from Montclair on May 19th, 191 1 :

I expect to be home nearly as soon as this reaches you. I
am finishing things off at the office and calling on numerous
friends to say adieu. I think everyone at the Montclair
Hotel has asked after you. . . .

Immediately on being released from technical work
in connection with legal matters he booked his passage
on the R.M.S. Mauretania, of the Cunard Line, and
leaving New York on Wednesday, May 24th, landed at
Fishguard on the evening of the 29th, arriving home
on the morning of the 30th. The kindness and
courtesy shown to him in New York and New Jersey
had made his leave-taking more than a mere matter of
form. He received good wishes for his voyage with
the expression of their hope that he might speedily
revisit the States from many of the American acquain-
tances whom he had now added to his long list of
friends.

CHAPTER XX
RETURN TO ENGLAND

HE was now looking forward with keen interest
to being in England and to prosecuting
fresh research work. Although his stay in
the States had been rendered pleasant by the friend-
ships formed with men of science, and particularly
by the close intercourse with Dr. Chandler, one of the
most eminent American professors, yet he frequently
stated he would not have undertaken the technical
work for the law case could he have foreseen it would
be so protracted, and that it would have involved
such lengthened absences from England.

Neither legal nor business matters really interested
him in any great degree, metallurgy, chemistry, and
physical science claiming his real attention. On that
particular path of metallurgical work where the
scientific side is wholly subordinated to business
methods for the rapid production of wealth he was
an unfamiliar and unwilling traveller, this sphere, so
commonly met with in the States, representing some-
thing not directly in his line of interest.

Delighted to be once more at Torquay, the first
few days of June passed rapidly away. Regretting
that his professional work left so little time for country
life, these quiet interludes were always much valued.
In America the home is frequently a mere hotel, from
which the busy worker goes and to which he returns
but as to a dormitory ; thus the resumption of the
home-life that British people appreciate so highly was

248

RETURN TO ENGLAND 249

ever welcome to him. Other changes occurred, but
there was no change in the affection with which he
regarded his home.

" I have finished my work in the States, and am
glad to settle in England again. General," he said a
few days after his arrival on meeting his friend General
D'Aguilar Jackson.

" Are you not going back again to America, then ? "
asked the latter.

" No," was the reply. " I have completed the woik
on which I had to go over so frequently, and shall not
cross the Atlantic again. I have looked my last on
New York."

This conversation, which the present writer heard,
was recalled to her recollection some time later in a
letter from the above-named Anglo-Indian officer.

Almost immediately after returning, the traveller
was able to accompany his wife to a gathering for the
presentation'of a testimonial to their friend Prebendary
Airy, on the completion of his twenty-five years
vicariate of St. John's Church, Torquay. Whitsuntide
was spent quietly at home, and he found on going to
London on June loth that all was business and festivity
in the metropolis owing to the excitement of the
Coronation season.

A reception held at the Royal Automobile Club, at
which the Colonial Premiers were received by the
Duke and Duchess of Teck, was an early engagement.
Forbes Julian was much pleased with the new premises
in Pall Mall. His wife had arranged to join him in
town a few days later, and in one of his letters to her
he describes the building and mentions the prepara-
tions for the Coronation, also alluding to the Metal-
lurgical Club, of which he was now a member, and
where he afterwards was accustomed to meet many
leading spirits in the mining world.

250 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

Royal Automobile Club,

ijth June, 191 1.
I went to see the new Metallurgical Club, but it is not ready
yet. It looks as if it might be a nice place at which to meet
mining men. The stands for viewing the Coronation pro-
cession are nearly finished, with the exception of the drapery.
The poles for the decorations are also up. I have just arrived
at this club, and intend coming here for the reception to be
held to meet the Premiers to-morrow night. I have been
looking round the building. The room in which I am writing
to you is most luxurious. . . . There is a big wooden structure
on the front of the building which contains our seats, and we
ought to see splendidly. The streets to-day are excessively
crowded, and it is hard to make headway at a moderate speed.

Shortly afterwards his wife joined him in London,
and they had an excellent view of the Coronation
procession, spending almost all the day at the Royal
Automobile Club, which afforded him an opportunity
of showing her over the new premises.

Some of their friends who were amongst the
privileged spectators in the Abbey afterwards described
to them the deeply impressive service during the
Coronation of the King and Queen. Royal visitors
and representatives of foreign Courts, distinguished
statesmen, eminent ecclesiastics, great captains on land
and sea, men of counsel, men of action — all were
present at this remarkable assemblage, recalling to so
many minds the Coronation of King Edward nine
years before. For two days, during the Coronation
Procession and the Royal Progress through London,
the City was the centre of a splendid pageant, the
windows being decked with flowers and the streets
decorated with flags. They were filled with spectators,
enthusiastic crowds of loyal subjects and foreign
visitors thronging every coign of vantage, and waiting
patiently for hours to greet the King and Queen in
all the freshness and glory of the midsummer days.

RETURN TO ENGLAND 251

The present writer's thoughts went back to the
visit from His Majesty several years before with which
her father had been honoured. She recalled the great
interest then taken by the Prince and his brother, the
late Duke of Clarence, in the geological collections and
the pleasure they expressed at realizing the evidences
of prehistoric life as pointed out by Mr. Pengelly.

The Coronation festivities have been more adequately
described by other writers, and are within the recol-
lection of all. Not only did London manifest an
immense overflow of welcome, but the entire country
was filled with rejoicing, great centres of population as
well as tiny villages and hamlets joining in loyalty to
the new Sovereign.

As well as participating in these scenes of universal
enthusiasm and patriotic interest, various meetings
were attended, invitations being also received for
many scientific gatherings, including the soiree of the
Royal Geographical Society and the conversazione of
the Civil Engineers. The metallurgist was also present
at the Royal Automobile Club when Prince Henry of
Prussia was the guest of honour, the royal visitor
receiving a hearty welcome in connection with the
motor races. Before going to the Club the day had
been spent at Brooklands, where their friend Mrs.
Thackeray kindly motored Forbes Julian and his wife
over to enable them to see something of the great
automobile race. The flying machines were inspected
and conversations held with more than one of the
aviators and airmen. The whole season was filled
with pleasant engagements. One of the evening
gatherings, at which many scientific friends were
assembled, was a party arranged to celebrate the silver
wedding of Professor and Mrs. Meldola.

Leaving the hospitalities of the capital at the end
of July, they returned to the West of England in order

252 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

to attend the Devonshire Association meeting which
was to be held at Dartmouth. This historic town,
with its fine port and unrivalled situation at the
entrance to one of the most beautiful of our English
rivers, is famous for its associations with the British
Navy. Here were trained many of our greatest
seamen. Our sailor King also received at Dartmouth
his earliest insight into the work of that profession for
which His Majesty has always shown such enthusiasm.

At the Royal Naval College the members were
welcomed by Captain Evan-Thomas, and conducted
over the grounds and buildings by the officers. Prince
Albert, the second son of the King, was at that time
at the College, and the Prince of Wales had only
recently completed his course of instruction there.
The Prince has since become a member of the Associa-
tion, having always evinced much interest in Devonian
matters. Mr. Burnard was president of the Association
this year, and in his opening Address made many allu-
sions to Kent's Hole, the famous cavern explored by Mr.
Pengelly. During the meeting an important evening
lecture was delivered by Mr. Hansford Worth, entitled
" The Stanneries, the Story of the Western Tin Miner."

Returning afterwards to Torquay, Forbes Julian
attended a meeting of the Natural History Society,
at which his wife had been asked to give a paper, and
spent part of August at home. Frequent visits to
London on professional matters connected with the
firm were also made, but his own literary labours
suffered considerable interruption. He wrote from
town on August 15th :

I called at the publishers (Charles Griffin and Co.) on my
way to the City and had a conversation about bringing out
the third edition of " Cyaniding Gold and Silver Ores," as
they sold out the whole of the second edition some time ago,
and, in order to meet the demand, reissued the same edition.

RETURN TO ENGLAND 253

At this period he was applying himself so strenuously
to the affairs of the Butters Company that his own
work, with the numerous improvements and additions
for the volume suggested by his recent researches and
fresh observations, had unfortunately to be delayed.

Leaving at the end of the month for Portsmouth,
where the British Association in its cycle of change
was meeting jn 191 1, a small but successful gathering
was held at the great naval station. The presidency of
Sir William Ramsay ensured an able Inaugural Address,
and at the Chemical Section Professor J. Walker was
chairman, whilst Professor Biles presided over that of
Engineering. In the following spring Professor Biles
was one of the assessors who assisted Lord Mersey in
the Titanic inquiry.

Forbes Julian had now been a member for several
years, and took much interest not only in the Papers
but also in the work of the Association, being regular
in attendance at the meetings of the General Com-
mittee and the committee of Section B. This was the
last of the gatherings at which he was destined to be
present, and no cloud overshadowed its brightness.
The Association had always a welcome for him and
his communications, and the cordial greetings of
scientific friends after so many months' absence abroad
afforded him much pleasure. In letters to the present
writer, Professor Senier, President of Section B in
191 2, and Dr. E. F. Armstrong, the secretary, allude
to the value of his contributions to the Chemical
Section.

On August 31st a visit made by Forbes Julian with
other members to the Dockyard proved unusually
attractive, as the Naval Commander-in-Chief, Sir
A. W. Moore, showed great kindness to the metal-
lurgist and his wife, pointing out various matters of
interest and afterwards taking them on the water in

254 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

his boat. It was also owing to his arrangement that
on Monday, September 4th, the members assembled on
board the Revenge, which proceeded to Spithead and
was attacked by torpedo-boats and submarines. These
experiences added to the gathering a note of naval
and seaside matters and marked it as of special
character, in contrast with the numerous meetings
held in the manufacturing towns of the Midlands and
the North of England, where factories and workshops
are the chief attractions.

Most of the West Country visitors were familiar
with Plymouth and the dockyard at Devonport, but
to others these scenes, especially the naval display,
gave some insight into the mass of detail and training
required by naval commanders.

An evening lecture on the " Physiology of Submarine
Work " was delivered by Dr. Leonard Hill. This was
particularly noteworthy to the metallurgist from his
having had the experience of going down in a caisson
used for the purpose of horizontal tunnelling under
rivers, an operation Dr. Hill described in a detailed
and interesting manner.

A link with the naval history of the past was afforded
by a visit to that famous ship the Victory, with the
memories of Keppel, Parker, Kempenfelt, and, greatest
of all, of Nelson. The spirit of gallant chivalry (as
justly felt in the Navy of France as in that of Great
Britain) preserves in undying memory the brave action
of October 21st, 1805, fought with so much valour on
both sides. It is now nearly a hundred and fifty
years since the Victory was first launched and well
over a century since she led the way into the great
battle.

During the progress of the British Association an
interesting day was spent on September 2nd, Arundel
being visited, where the historic castle and beautiful

RETURN TO ENGLAND 255

grounds were seen, the party being afterwards enter-
tained at luncheon by invitation of the Duke of
Norfolk. In the afternoon they proceeded to
Chichester, where the cathedral, the Cross, the old
almshouses, and city walls were inspected, and tea
Taken at the Deanery with Dean Hannah. The
distinctive features of the cathedral, such as the cam-
panile, or detached tower, and the five aisles, were
specially noticed ; the library, with Cranmer's copy
of Archbishop Hermann's service books and the
interesting MSS., being also examined. Such visits
were always much appreciated by Forbes Julian, who
had made expeditions to several of the famous
cathedral churches of England, whilst his wife had
visited them all.

On the Sunday morning the Bishop of Winchester
preached at Portsea Church at the special service for
the members of the Association, his address being
marked by the eloquence of diction and deep spiritual
fervour which are characteristic of Dr. Talbot. Even-
song was attended at Southsea, where Bishop Welldon
preached to a crowded congregation. He was presi-
dent of the Education Section this year, and both
his address and sermon were remarkable from their
philosophic acumen and penetration.

At the close of the meeting the metallurgist had to
be back at his post in London, his wife returning to
Torquay. After his arrival in town he describes, in a
series of letters written to her in the autumn during
intervals between home visits, his various engage-
ments, and the project of a laboratory at which he
was to undertake research work for the firm. A few
extracts from his correspondence are inserted, inasmuch
as (though they contain no striking incidents) they
throw some light on the amount of work he undertook
successfully at this time and the pleasure he found in

2S6 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

the companionship of old friends, many being enrolled
amongst the members of the Institution of Mining
and Metallurgy, the Metallurgical Club, and the Royal
Automobile Club. Various references occur in these
letters to the project on foot for him to undertake
work for the firm in Chili, but he himself never enter-
tained the idea of going to South America at this
period.

Writing in September, he says :

We are next going to send a man out to Chili. I was
asked if I wanted to go, and if I could manage to do so ; but
I am much too closely engaged, and they will have to find
some one else.

Towards the close of the month a few days were
spent with his wife on a visit to her relative Miss
Binyon, at Henwick Grove, near Worcester, and ser-
vice was attended at the beautiful cathedral on Sunday.
After returning to Torquay for one day, he had to be
back in London on account of the large amount of
work that lay before him.

During September the shadow of a great sorrow
fell on literary circles through the death at Torquay
of Archbishop Alexander. A pang of grief passed
through the Church at the removal of so conspicuous
a leader as the Irish Primate, and Forbes Julian heard
of this loss with great regret.

On October ist he describes a visit to the Mining
Laboratory at South Kensington, which from its
excellence aroused his enthusiasm.

I went to South Kensington to meet some of the Committee
of the new School of Mines. It is a magnificent place and
will, I believe, be the best of its kind in the world. The mining
laboratory is being fitted up from a fund left by the late
Sir Henry Bessemer. Fortunately, I shall have access to it
whenever I wish. I am fully engaged just now with a great
deal of work that Mr. Butters is leaving me to look after, but

RETURN TO ENGLAND 257

I managed to finish my paper, and it goes to the publisher in
the morning.

On October 14th the above-mentioned paper on
" Losses in Cyanidation " appeared in the Mining
Magazine, and there were some complimentary
remarks about it in the leader. The paper opens with
the following sentences :

The interest manifested in the filtration of slime, especially
with reference to the prevention of mysterious losses of gold
and silver during cyanidation, has of late been much intensified
by sundry unfortunate events. The fact that such losses
do occur is beyond doubt, but the cause, as well as the remedy,
is far from apparent. It may easily be proved that the presence
of slime accounts for much of the loss, which in a measure is
preventable by the aid of filters. The following few notes
touching on the more important uses and features of the
vacuum type of filter may be of service in Opening a discussion
with a view to elucidating matters.

The author then proceeds to note and deal with the
following points : Preparation of Pulp for the Filter ;
Cake Formation and Thickness ; Characteristics of
Filter Cakes ; Care of the Cake ; Washing the Cake ;
Re-precipitation and the Solution ; Preparation and
Application of the Wash Solution ; Water Wash ;
Washing by Filtration and Decantation.

By mining men this contribution was considered
important, for it contained much information as to
recent developments.

The following remarks about the paper appeared
in the editorial columns of the Mining Magazine :

We are fortunate in being able to give our readers a timely
article on obscure losses in cyanidation by Mr. H. Forbes
JuHan, the joint author, with Mr. Edgar Smart, of the standard
text-book on cyanide practice. The article itself has the
double merit of being prepared by a specialist who also happens
to be able to express himself clearly ; in other words, he has

R

258 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

subjected his writing to a process of filtration, in which,
however, a vacuum is conspicuously lacking. To us the result
appears to be an enriched and clarified solution, ready for
prompt precipitation in the mind of the intelligent reader.

A visit to Loughborough on some work for the
Company was made about this time, but he was able
to spend October 30th, the anniversary of their wedding
day, with his wife at Torquay. Owing to absences
abroad, they had not kept it together at their home for
seven years.

After his return to town he mentions frequent
meetings with Mr. H. L. Sulman, President of the
Institution of Mining and Metallurgy, and other
eminent experts at the Metallurgical Club. He now
lunched there daily when in the metropolis, and the
conversations held with the President, whether on
metallurgical subjects or on reminiscences of South
Africa, or merely table-talk, were always a stimulus
to him. The evening concerts at the Royal Auto-
mobile Club were also appreciated, as these occasions
were brightened not only by music but by social inter-
course with many well-known motorists.

In the next letter quoted he alludes to the Motor
Show at Olympia :

Royal Automobile Club,
()th Nov., 191 1.

... I have been kept closely engaged at the ofiice lately, as
the City is now very full of mining men, who constantly call
me up on the telephone. The Metallurgical Club is crowded
at lunch-time, and I have met Mr. Sulman and a number of
old friends there. . . . All the conversation at the Automobile
Club is political, and about Balfour's resignation. . . .

I had a pleasant evening at the concert here last night.
There were some excellent entertainers and the audience was
very appreciative. ... I got to the Motor Show to-day about
four o'clock, and found it very interesting and the best I have
seen. There were such crowds of people that it was hard to
get a good view of the exhibits, but what I did see was splendid

RETURN TO ENGLAND 259

work. I hope to be down at Torquay and to meet our friends
on Saturday, the nth.

The Bishop of Exeter, the Bishop of Crediton, and
Sir Ernest Satow all came to speak at the Pengelly
Hall on November nth on the scheme for diocesan aid
for the cause of Church Extension in Plymouth and
Devonport. The task before the Church in these
towns, with the large numbers of soldiers, sailors, and
dockyard men, is of the most serious magnitude.
From the inception of the scheme much interest had
been felt at Torquay in the work. On this occasion
the Bishop of Crediton and Sir Ernest Satow visited
Forbes Julian and his wife. They had invited the
Rev. E. P. Gregg and some of the Torquay clergy to
meet the Bishop at "Redholme," with Admiral Sir
William Acland, General Sir Peter Lumsden, General
D'Aguilar Jackson, and others interested in the work
amongst soldiers and sailors. Mr. W. E. Norris was
also present, and some conversation took place with
him and Sir Ernest Satow on recent events in Japan
and China, the author having visited and written on
Japan, where the diplomatist had lived for several
years. The meeting was well attended, notwith-
standing that the day unfortunately turned out wet
and stormy.

After the bright warm summer, the autumn of 191 1
became somewhat unsettled. However, Forbes Julian
was delighted to spend it in England and to pay as
many visits as possible to his home in the West. Though
cosmopolitan by training, the spell that Devonshire
cast upon him seemed such that he never tired of its
climate and scenery. After being frequently in foreign
lands and so permeated by their spirit, yet he was
not so entirely in harmony with his surroundings
abroad, even when in the most beautiful scenes, as
when in the county of his adoption, and the claims of

26o HENRY FORBES JULIAN

the metropolis never obtained any firm hold upon
him.

Writing in the middle of November from the Royal
Automobile Club, he describes a fruitless search for a
suitable laboratory for the firm :

I had a glorious drive by the sea to Torquay Station, and
saw a fleet of submarines manoeuvring in Torbay. I had a
good journey, and reached the office in time for the Board
meeting, and spoke to some of the directors. It has been
terribly wet everywhere except in Devonshire. I heard from
several men at the club that they were drenched on the golf
links, so (after all) dear old Torquay is one of the best places
in the country. I have come to the club for the smoking
concert, which promises to be well patronized. I was out
with Simpson this morning, near Willesden, looking at some
buildings for a laboratory. I went to the Metallurgical Club
for lunch, and met a very interesting man who has spent most
of his life in North and South America managing large smelting-
works. He built Mond's great works at Sudbury, and speaks
of the elder Mond in most affectionate terms. In the after-
noon I went with Simpson to see more buildings for a labora-
tory. We drove about in a taxicab for hours, but could not
see anything suitable. . . .

During the autumn he had been engaged .with
investigations concerning a scheme for the treatment
of nitrate ores, a subject in which he had long taken a
keen interest.

Early in December he had the opportunity of meet-
ing several mining men at a gathering of sociability and
good fellowship, as described in a letter dated London,
December 7th, 191 1 :

Last night I went to the Metallurgical Club, and met
Mr. Sulman and a great many other friends, and we had a
pleasant dinner together and afterwards a smoking concert.
Some of the members contributed to the programme. One
of these (Mr. Williamson-Milne), a Scotsman, who sat next
to me at dinner, told some excellent stories. The items

RETURN TO ENGLAND 261

given by the professionals were also greatly appreciated, and
we had two good singers. Everyone seemed to enjoy the
evening, which passed rapidly, for the proceedings were all
over by 10.40. ... I was surprised to find from your letter
that you and two others were the only speakers after Lady
Acland's paper on the Insurance Bill at the Pengelly Hall.
I should have thought there would have been a great
number. They seemed to have plenty to say about it in
the House of Commons last night. . . .

Writing a few days later, he mentions various
friends, and alludes to the Durbar Ball at his Club,
which proved very successful.

Royal Automobile Club,

loth Dec, 191 1.
Last night, after writing to you, I stayed in the smoking-
room and had an interesting talk with a captain in the Dutch
army. At lunch, at the Metallurgical Club, I sat at the same
table with a man who was working with me twenty years
ago in South Africa, and I had a long conversation with him
about old times in the Transvaal. . . . Crohn left to-night
for Germany, and I saw him off. . . . The other day at the
Metallurgical Club I met Mr. Lance, who has just come from
Alaska. His young brother is in Nigeria, tin-mining. I did
not hear how their parents — General and Mrs. Lance —
were.

I am greatly looking forward to having Christmas at our
home and spending all the time with you. From your letter
it appears that we shall have plenty of engagements. ... I am
intending to come here to-morrow night for the Durbar Ball
at the club ; large numbers are expected. . . .

Coming down to Devonshire later in December,
some work was brought to be done during the brief
holiday snatched from office routine in town. The
festival was spent, as usual when in Torquay, in visiting
Mrs. Maxwell and attending the services at church
with his wife, and this last Christmas at home was

161 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

especially bright and happy. Many old friends were
met with, and he had the pleasure of becoming
acquainted with Colonel Burn, the recently elected
Member of Parliament for the Torquay Division, and
the Hon. N. N. Stranahan, formerly Senator for New
York State*

CHAPTER XXI
LAST MONTHS AT HOME

AT the commencement of the year 191 2 Forbes
Julian's association with the Butters Com-
pany as their consuhant had lasted nearly
six years. During this period, to quote from a well-
known member of the firm,

He had been instrumental in developing a process which
has revolutionized the metallurgy of gold and silver ores, and
even under the pressure of research work and active participa-
tion in the building-up of this process, he found time to
devote his attention to far-reaching activities.

After his death Mr. Butters wrote :

He was so helpful to me always. His fund of knowledge
was so extensive and certain, and I have relied upon him so
many years for advice and assistance, that I feel quite dis-
heartened in going ahead with the important work which I
intended to carry out.

Anxious to prosecute his own work also, he (as
previously stated) had been connected with the
company on terms which should enable him to con-
tinue his literary and metallurgical labours. It will
have been gathered that the lawsuit absorbed an
unexpected amount of time, but now that this was
practically concluded he hoped to have leisure to
devote to fresh investigations. The company were
also intending to start a laboratory, where they could
have the benefit of his services, as mentioned in many
of his letters. Few men have the opportunity of

263

264 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

following the progress of a fresh branch of science
from its early years to its maturity, fewer still of being
able to assist in its development ; but from his pioneer
work in cyanidation and his later labours Forbes
Julian was considered by his colleagues to be entitled
to this position.

The New Year dawned with the expectation of a
happy period of scientific activity and professional
usefulness — the prospect seeming most fair, without
any foreboding as to the grief and distress a few short
months would bring.

Returning to London during January, he wrote
home on the 20th describing a lecture in Albemarle
Street ;

Last night I went to Sir James Dewar's lecture at the Royal
Institution on " Heat Problems " and enjoyed it very much.
His experiments were wonderfully successful as usual, and
disclosed some remarkable discoveries in connection with heat.
There was a large attendance of distinguished scientific men.
Sir J. J. Thomson evidently took a keen interest in the discourse,
and will doubtless give some explanation of the new dis-
coveries in connection with his special subject of electrons.
The Duke of Northumberland was in his usual place, and
many familiar faces were to be seen. The exhibits were
interesting, and there was a portfolio of Faraday relics full of
autographs and portraits which, I think, would have attracted
you as much as the scientific apparatus.

As already stated, the Jubilee of the Devonshire
Association, the society founded by his father-in-law,
occurred this year, and the approaching celebration
recalled Mr. Pengelly's great services to science, the
intervening years having served to establish his name
securely amongst English geologists ; but his fame
was not British alone, for, in the words of his friend
Lord Lister, " the importance of his acutely planned
and perseveringly conducted cave explorations is
recognized throughout the scientific world."

LAST MONTHS AT HOME 265

Early in the year the great surgeon himself also
passed within the veil.

A brief outline of the geologist's career has been
already given in this book. Forbes Julian wrote on
January 27th from the Royal Automobile Club, at the
close of his letter alluding to the correspondence
relating to Mr. Pengelly, numerous letters from
scientists and old friends having been received con-
cerning the notices appearing in different papers
respecting his life's work.

Last night I got down early to the Royal Institution and
had an interesting time inspecting the exhibits, which were
chiefly physical apparatus. The lecture by Professor Bertram
Hopkinson on " The Pressure of a Blow " was a difficult one
to make interesting to a mixed audience, but I think the
lecturer succeeded in rendering matters clear to everyone.
His experiments were exceedingly good, and displayed a great
amount of ingenuity in order to illustrate the effects graphi-
cally. Sir William Crookes, Professor Silvanus Thompson,
Dr. Perry and his niece, and a host of others whom you know,
were present. . . . How pleasant for you to have had such
interesting letters about your father from Lord Coleridge,
Sir Roper Lethbridge, Sir Alfred Croft, Lady Flower, Sir
Edward Brabrook, the Bishop of Llandaff, and the Rev. J. O.
Bevan.

In the next letter allusion is made to a request
from Professor McKenny Hughes that Mr. Pengelly's
favourite hammer might be presented to the Sedgwick
Museum at the University of Cambridge, in order
(as the professor wrote)

that it might be placed with those of Hugh Miller, Professor
Sedgwick, Sir Charles Lyell, and other geological hammers
with which it had probably been out in the field, and thus
be seen by future generations of students, to recall his cavern
researches and other geological discoveries.

Writing from London on January 30th, Forbes
Julian says :

266 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

It would be very interesting to have your father's hammer
amongst those of so many distinguished geologists at Cam-
bridge, as Professor Hughes suggests. It is pleasant to read
the appreciative letters from him and from Dr. Smith Wood-
ward, Dr. Tempest Anderson, Professor Schafer, and Professor
Meldola.

Mr. Maxwell Adams, honorary secretary of the
Devonshire Association, wrote as follows :

I am glad that your father's memory and great services to
science are not forgotten. It is of particular interest just now,
when we are to celebrate in July the fiftieth anniversary of
the Society which he founded and did so much to promote.
All our success is due to the firm and wise basis on which
he started the Association.

At the above-mentioned Jubilee meeting Forbes
Julian was desirous of being present, and was looking
forward to entertaining all the members of the Asso-
ciation at the Pengelly Hall. He wrote to his wife
suggesting this, saying :

. . . We could then invite all the members of the two
societies he founded, the Devonshire Association and the
Torquay Natural History Society, to meet other friends. The
gathering together would probably be what the members of
both societies would like best. . . .

In the middle of February he attended the dinner
of the founder-members at the Royal Automobile
Club, meeting, for the last time, many of the pioneers
at this pleasant gathering. His duties kept him much
in London during the spring, carrying on miscellaneous
work (as consultant to the Butters Company) hardly
capable of methodical record in this memoir, yet
helpful to the firm and to the progress of metallurgy.
Escaping occasionally from these cares to the quiet
and pure air of the country, he greatly appreciated
the beautiful early season of the year in Devonshire,
and on the Saturdays and Sundays often enjoyed the

LAST MONTHS AT HOME 267

genial hospitality of Sir William and Lady Acland,
Lady Olpherts, Captain Brine, Dr. Harley Gough,
and other neighbours. A musical party in February
given by the Honourable Helen Cubitt, just before
Lent, at which he met many friends, was the last
evening gathering in Torquay that he and his wife
attended together.

The ninety-seventh birthday of the Rev. Evan
Edwards, the oldest Baptist minister in the world and
a resident at the watering-place, occurred this month.
He was much pleased with the present of a book from
Forbes Julian and his wife, and said at parting :
" Everyone is so kind to me, particularly those who
are not altogether in sympathy with me in political
or religious matters." The aged pastor's touching
message to his friends and to the people generally
was to beg them " to think more of God and less of
self ; more of Christ and less of earthly things."

Amongst the meetings attended in February at the
Pengelly Hall was one at which the Bishop of Mashona-
land pleaded the needs of his vast diocese. Some
conversation was held with the Bishop afterwards
concerning work at the mining-camps and other
industrial centres, also at the farming districts and
amongst the large coloured population, the loyalty
of the various native peoples throughout South Africa
during the war being specially referred to.

At the end of the month Forbes Julian heard that
the law case for the firm at which he had worked so
long and unremittingly had been decided in their
favour. This news was immediately conveyed to his
wife in the following letter :

London,
2'^th Feb., 1912.
I have good news to tell you. This morning we had a cable
from New York to say that we had won our case. Everyone

268 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

in the office and the directors are much elated, and the tele-
phone kept ringing me up to express congratulations. Mr.
Butters has not yet heard the news because he is on board
ship in the Pacific, and we shall not be able to get into commu-
nication with him for another week. Cables were sent to all
the other members of the staff in South Africa, India, Japan,
Canada, Mexico, and Central America.

We have had a beautifully bright day, and the trees are
budding into leaf here, as in Torquay. I hope the frost will
not come, for it would put vegetation back a month.

On receipt of the news, letters of congratulation
poured in. Writing to him from Canada, his Scotch
friend, Mr. James Johnston, says :

I must congratulate you on the success of the Filter lawsuit.
It feels good, does it not, after all those years of weary waiting ?
I am sure that Mrs. Julian will feel that she has been in it,
too, and will be glad it is all over, and well over at that.

On March 6th the metallurgist wrote home saying :

This morning, on arriving at the office, I found a long letter
enclosing the decision of the case, which occupies twelve
pages.

Early in March he returned home, and discussed
with his wife the probability of at last completing the
work for a third edition of his book on Cyaniding.

On his next visit home on Saturday, March i6th, he
mentioned his satisfaction at having remained in town
the previous day, not only on account of the evening
lecture given by Mr. Soddy at the Royal Institution
on " The Origin of Radium," which he had attended,
but also by reason of an American cable received
from the Charles Butters Company asking him to go
out again to the United States in connection with the
Vacuum filters and the conclusion of the lawsuit.
He said :

• LAST MONTHS AT HOME 269

I sent out word immediately that I could not go again, and
have not only cabled, but written a long letter, declining the
proposal.

In answer to this refusal, which he showed to
the present writer, another urgent American cable
begging him to go arrived at Torquay (forwarded
from London) on the morning of Monday, March 1 8th,
and he finally consented. He said, handing the cable
to his wife : " I suppose I had better go, as they
seem so anxious for me to do so that I hardly like to
decline again ; but I go very reluctantly."

He then mentioned that there were men on the
staff already in the States who could do what was
required there, adding: "It is a mistake for me to
leave England just now. I wish they had not asked
me a second time to go, but would have accepted
my refusal."

Invariably buoyant and cheerful, on this occasion
alone through all the years of close intimacy in their
married life was his wife distressed to see him evidently
discouraged. During his busy career he had known
many disappointments, amongst these being the
inability to profit by the concessions obtained with
much danger in the Barotse district, the severe illness
which forced the relinquishment of his pleasant
engagement at Frankfort, the loss of a large amount
of income in the Boer War through the comman-
deering by the Boer generals of wagon companies
in which he was a shareholder, and the burning down
of his beautiful house at Shaldon. But all these
reverses had been borne not only in silence, but with
unfailing spirit, his simple tastes making pecuniary
losses a slight grievance only. This unexpected
summons to leave England seemed, however, from
the first to give him a presage of coming disaster. In
a letter from Croydon later in April to the present

270 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

writer, his aunt, Miss D. Neligan, mentions (in
reference to his last visit to her and her sister)
that he spoke openly of his dislike to going,
and that they had never seen him in this mood
before.

Having reluctantly consented to undertake the
journey, the preparations for his departure were
at once commenced and his passage was booked
by the Butters Company on the R.M.S. Olympic^
of the White Star Line, which was due to sail on
April 3rd.

Back again in London, he wrote home on March 20th,
2 1 St, and 22nd, and in all these letters mentioned that
he would have to leave on April 3rd. In addition to
the work for the firm he was preparing for them a
little book on " Slime Filtration and Cyaniding,"
and it was found that this literary labour would
necessitate a few days' longer stay in England. In
another letter to his wife from London, on March 25th,
he wrote :

This morning we had the printers in, and, as they cannot
have the proofs ready before April 3rd, Mr. Humphreys had
my cabin on the Olymfic cancelled and has engaged one on
the Titanic, which does not sail until the loth. ... I shall
have to make some fresh arrangements (at Hampstead), for
I believe they have let my rooms.

If it had not been for the above-mentioned altera-
tion of date in connection with the preparation of
this publication for the firm he would have been a
passenger on the Olympic. Several steamers were
tied up at Liverpool and Southampton on account of
the Coal Strike, but both these giant ships of the
White Star Line were announced to sail early in April.
It was not from any wish on his part to be on the
great liner on her maiden voyage, but simply on account
of concluding this literary work and the shortage of

LAST MONTHS AT HOME 271

steamers, that the Titanic was selected for him by
the Butters Company.

The little book appeared not long after his tragic
death at sea, and, in forwarding a copy of this unpre-
tending treatise to the present writer, Mr. Humphreys,
the secretary and manager of the Butters Company
in London, wrote as follows :

Capel House,

i()th July^ 191 2.
As you will naturally be interested to see in print the latest
work of your dear husband, I am sending you under separate
cover a copy of " Slime Filtration and Cyaniding." This
treatise, though ostensibly a trade publication, contains so
much valuable information on the latest of metallurgical
developments that it cannot fail to secure a prominent place
amongst the other valuable reference-books which the modern
metallurgist finds necessary to keep constantly at hand.

At the end of March Forbes Julian wrote home
describing a lecture given by Sir J. J. Thomson on
" Results of the Application of Positive Rays to the
Study of Chemical Problems," which he attended in
Albemarle Street. Here he met for the last time the
Rev. J. O. Bevan and others closely linked in friend-
ship, scientific association, and intellectual tendency
of thought.

Royal Automobile Club,

'JfOth March, 191 2.
I went to the Royal Institution last night, getting there by
8.35, but failed to find Mr. Bevan. After the lecture was
over, however, I heard my name called, and saw his genial
face only a little way from where I had been sitting. The
lecture was excellent, and the subject was one that interested
me intensely. A great deal of it related to quite new investi-
gations. Sir J. J. Thomson gave a good many humorous hits
at chemists, which probably attracted the attention of Dr.
Armstrong, who was present. The experiments were difficult
for me to see owing to the distance at which I was sitting. The

272 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

exhibits were very interesting. On the whole, it was a most
successful evening, and I only wanted you to make it quite
perfect. I had a very busy day at the office, and if nothing
fresh comes to hand I shall have practically finished on Monday,
with the exception of correcting the proofs. ... It would
be delightful to have you with me, but, of course, if you do
not feel quite up to the long land journey I shall try and
content myself with the thought that you are keeping in better
health at our home. I am afraid that there are not any
through trains to San Francisco, but there need be only one
change, that at Chicago. I hope to hear that you are rapidly
getting well ; do tell me what Dr. Gumming thinks. . . .
I have arranged to stay on at Hampstead until next Wednesday,
April 3rd, when I hope to join you at Torquay. I am getting
through my work famously.

His wife (who had been ill with influenza during
the spring) had been anxiously considering the possi-
bility of joining him. It was felt that the voyage
might be beneficial, but as he was expecting to proceed
to California immediately, his usual thoughtfulness
made him apprehensive that she might be unequal to
the long land journey. Writing again from London
on April ist, he said :

I have been thinking it would be far too much of a risk for
you to take by leaving so soon after this attack of influenza.
It would make me terribly unhappy if you were taken ill on
the way, and I should always reproach myself for wanting you
to go. I know now it is by far the wisest thing to give up
the idea, and I will try to hurry things so as to get back as
soon as possible. I want so much to return to England to
be with you for the Jubilee meeting of the Devonshire Asso-
ciation at Exeter in connection with your father's memory.
... It will be delightful to be at home for the last few
days. . . .

He returned to Torquay on April 3rd to spend Holy
Week, and beautiful weather was experienced during
these quiet days. On the peaceful, happy Sunday
at home the sound of the Easter bells rang for the

LAST MONTHS AT HOME 273

last time in his ears — those bells which had hallowed
his marriage rite, had so often called him to prayer,
and were soon to summon mourners to the solemn
service celebrating his last rest.

Spring had brought back leaf and blossom, and on
Easter Day, going out with his wife for the first time
since her illness, everything was bright with the rays
of the Easter sun, all nature seeming to rejoice and
hold high festival. Walking in the garden in the
afternoon and watching the opening leaves fluttering
in all their beauty in the breeze, he spoke to her of
the great happiness that these quiet interludes in
the country in her society had always brought into
his active life. His last days on land were spent in
the home that had been so dear to him ; his last
walks taken amidst the pleasant valleys and beauteous
lanes of the county he knew and loved so well, clad
with all the vernal freshness and beauty of the April
verdure. And it was by his own unselfish renuncia-
tion that he was about to be separated — for so much
longer than he was permitted then to know — from the
companionship that had proved so perfect and had
meant so much to both !

CHAPTER XXII

LETTERS FROM THE THANIC AND THE
CARPATHIA

THE R.M.S. titanic was due to sail on
her maiden voyage early on Wednesday,
April loth. It was found on inquiry that the
journey from Torquay to Southampton would be un-
usually slow on account of the suspension of several
trains owing to the Coal Strike. The steeplechases
at Torquay on Easter Tuesday, April 9th, also added
locally to the confusion and congestion of traffic.
His wife therefore asked him whether he could
postpone the journey one day and leave England on
Thursday, the nth, being transferred to the Celtic,
of the White Star Line, which sailed from Liverpool
on that date. He replied :

I should like it much better, as the Celtic is a slower boat
and I should have a longer time at sea, which I always enjoy,
but I fear it might inconvenience the firm if I went later.

His wife suggested that, as he had been already
obliged to alter his arrangements so as to await the
proofs for their convenience, one additional day could
scarcely matter, but, always averse to giving trouble
to others, he felt he could make no further alteration.

His friends Mr. Myers and Dr. Cumming, and his
wife's elder sister, Mrs. Maxwell, who called on
Good Friday and Easter Eve, asked him if he preferred
travelling on the new vessel.

"Not in the least," he replied. "I do not care at all for
the palm-court and gymnasium and such extra attractions,

274

LETTERS FROM THE TITANIC, ETC. 275

and never visited them when coming home last time on the
Mauretania. I shall keep to the smoking-room and library,
and only just look over the vessel before starting."

Whilst in London he had been unwell with a
feverish chill, and it was not without concern that
his wife thought of his embarking on a fresh expedition
whilst still suffering from the effects of illness.

Leaving Torquay soon after midday on Tuesday,
April 9th, the following extract from a letter to her
written the same evening describes his journey.

South-Western Hotel, Southampton,
<)th April, 191 2.
The journey, with four changes, thirty-five minutes at
Newton and forty-five at Exeter, made me think that it
would have been too much for you in your present state of
health. At Salisbury all the luggage for the boat was put
into a special van, which was attached to the train. At
Romsey this was disconnected and attached to the Southamp-
ton train, so that we had no trouble. I arrived here at 8.25.
... I think it was wiser for you not to take the risk (of coming),
as it is really very cold, with a strong wind. ... At Exeter
there were about twenty trunks for the Titanic, mostly second-
and third-class passengers.

Writing to his sister-in-law, Mrs. Maxwell, from
the R.M.S. Titanic at Southampton, he describes
the steamer, and explains that he had been too closely
occupied on Easter Monday correcting proofs to be
enabled to visit her, for he had been working up to
the very last with his accustomed vigour. He also
regrets that his wife's recent attack of influenza had
prevented her from accompanying him to the States.

On board R.M.S. Titanic,
loth April, 191 2.
I was very sorry not to have been able to see you again
before leaving Torquay. I was " rushed " up to the end.
I left by the 1.35 train and got to Southampton at 8.25 —

276 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

not bad for these times. This is the most wonderful ship
I have ever seen ; " palatial " is not the word for it. It is a
marvel. Everything is spick and span even to the stewards
and stewardesses. AH the other great ships in the docks look
mere cockle-shells. All it wants ... is darling Hetty, but
it would have been too risky for her so soon after the " flue."

His wife received from him three letters written on
board the Titanic, one bearing the Southampton
postmark and the other two that of Queens town. The
first gives some account of the vessel.

Southampton,
On board R.M.S. Titanic,
loth April, 191 2.
I have just been over the ship and seen all the sitting- and
saloon-rooms. It is all most luxurious. . . . The decks are
magnificent, and the enclosed ones are fitted up more like
smoking-rooms. My cabin is not the one shown ... on
the Olympic plan. ... It is, however, more like a small
bedroom than a ship's cabin. ... If only you could have
got safely to the ship, I know you would love to have the
voyage. ... So far there are very few people on board,
but the London train has not yet arrived. ... I left the
hotel at 10 o'clock and walked to the ship, a matter of only
ten minutes. My trunks were taken charge of by the South-
western man, who sent them to the ship and put them into
my cabin. I want you to take great care of yourself. . . .
Do everything that is possible to get rid of the influenza,
and then I shall feel happier about leaving you. . . .

After the vessel had taken on passengers and mails
at Cherbourg the same evening he wrote again,
describing an incident which cast a gloom over the
starting for the disastrous voyage.

On board R.M.S. Titanic,

loth April, 1 91 2.

I was delighted to get your nice long letter and the telegram

just after leaving the dock. Our ship had some trouble in

getting away. There are a great many large steamers lying

in the docks on account of the Coal Strike, among them being

LETTERS FROM THE TITANIC, ETC. 277

the four American liners and the Oceanic. The New York,
which was secured to the Oceanic, broke loose, due to the back-
rush of water from the Titanic as she was moving past. Tugs
rushed to the assistance and succeeded in holding the New
York, which was moored to another part of the dock in order
that we might move away without doing damage to other
boats. This delayed us, and we did not reach Cherbourg
until 7 instead of 6. There were great crowds watching
us leave, but very few strangers were allowed on board.

I have now explored the ship, except the Turkish bath and
the swimming-bath. The Parisian cafe is quite a novelty
and looks very real. I do not know to what extent it is patro-
nized, but it will, no doubt, become popular amongst rich
Americans. . . . There are two bands, one in the lounge
and the other in the cafe. I also visited the gymnasium, which
is full of the most wonderful machines, which cure all the
aches that flesh is heir to. There are over three hundred
first-saloon passengers on board — a large proportion being
Americans.

The weather has been fine, but cool and more or less cloudy.
I expect we shall reach Queenstown about 7 in the morning,
and I don't suppose they will give us time to write in answer
to yours, so I am writing this evening. . . .

The following morning (Thursday) he wrote again
before reaching Queenstown, and also sent a cable
saying he had just met on the vessel his friend Colonel
John Weir.

On board R.M.S. Titanic ,
nth April, 191 2.

We do not arrive at Queenstown until about noon, which
gives me an opportunity of writing again. I had a good night
and was very comfortable. The ship is so steady that it is
almost the same as being on land. More than half the oflBcers
and stewards on board are familiar faces to me, as they are
taken from the Adriatic and Oceanic. The two deck-stewards
remembered me quite well, and allotted me a chair in a select
part of the deck.

This is a brilliant morning and quite warm. ... I think if
you could only have reached the ship safely you would have
been all right, for there are practically no draughts. Revolving

278 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

doors are much in use, which prevent any through currents of
air. In the smoking-room there is a big fireplace, which makes
it cosy. The other rooms also have fireplaces, but have
imitation fires heated by electricity ; they are poor things
compared with the real article. . . . The bands are unusually
good. ... I will feel happy with the thought that you are
taking care of yourself at " Redholme." . . .

This was the last letter his wife ever received from
him.

Leaving Queenstown soon after two o'clock, the
steamer had the coast in view until dusk. The final
sight of land from the Titanic was of the green hill-
sides and rugged cliffs of Ireland, where his boyhood
had been passed. The memories of his closing week
on earth were of the home of his married life and the
loved district of the West of England.

Descended from a long line of sailors and living
by the sea and loving it, the present writer had always
gladly accompanied her husband on his voyages ; nor
had she ever previously felt any anxiety about him
when on the ocean. But on the night of Sunday,
April 14th, after retiring to rest she was filled with
some presentiment of coming evil and felt too anxious
to be able to sleep. Rising up again before midnight,
she continued for a long time reading prayers, especially
those appointed to be used at sea. Eagerly inquiring
the next morning from the servants if any news had
come and scanning the papers, she was temporarily
reassured, for the intelligence of the catastrophe did
not reach her until the afternoon. But surely a
guiding influence must have directed her thoughts,
and some projection of the mind into space must
have enabled her in some mysterious way to hold
communion with one far distant in the icy regions
of the North Atlantic, whose spirit before translation
was expanding into a freer, fuller state.

LETTERS FROM THE fHANIC, ETC. 279

It was afterwards a source of solace to believe that
she had been permitted to be thus especially near to
him in thought and prayer during those last solemn
and supreme hours of existence.

Permission has kindly been given to include the
letters of one of the ladies amongst the surviving
British first-class saloon passengers, picked up by the
Carpathia from the Titanic boats. These letters (being
Vv-ritten by an eye-witness to a near relative immediately
after the catastrophe) are specially worthy of note.

First letter :

On board the Carpathia,
Wednesday, ijth April, 191 2. 4.15.

. . . We have been on this vessel since Monday at 8.30 a.m.,
when we were picked up, and I have not been able to write
a line before ; it has been too ghastly, and I still seem dazed.

Sunday night on the Titanic got very, very cold, icy, and
I asked the steward why it was so cold. He said we must be

in the region of ice. . . . N and I went to bed at ten . . .

at a quarter to twelve we were awakened by an awful sort of
bang and the engines stopping suddenly. We had an extra-
ordinary feeling that something dreadful had happened, as
when the engine stopped there was a terrible silence and then
the awful noise of steam being let oflf. We heard one or two
people walking up and down the passage, so we got up and
asked the steward what had happened. He said we had struck
an iceberg. This excited us, and we put on dressing-gowns
and fur coats and went up on deck. We went forward and
saw the bow of the ship covered in ice, but we could not see
the berg. We walked about on deck and talked, and wondered
if we should go back to bed or not, when suddenly the Purser
appeared and said : " Will you all go quietly and put on
warm clothing and your life-belts, and go up on the top deck ?
The women and children will be put in the lifeboats first."

We all dispersed very calmly, got to our own state-room,
but could find no life-belts. A nice man came with us and
hunted for them, and then a steward came. He did not even
know that the order for life-belts had been given, but he got

28o HENRY FORBES JULIAN

them for us from under the bed. We were told there was
time to dress, which we did, and calmly and quietly went to
the top boat-deck. You see by this the perfect confidence
people had in the great steamer. . . . Then the boats began
to be filled with women ... to be lowered from the top-
deck. We had a terrible scene with a little foreign lady who
would cling to her husband, and at last he threw her into our
arms and asked us to take care of her. We were only twenty-
four women in our boat, with but one able-bodied seaman,
two stewards . . . and one cook. ... As I try to write all
this it seems as if I could not go on ; it is all too terrible.

. . . When we reached the water we rowed a few yards, and
saw that great ship with her bows right down in the water.
Before we began to dress the water was pouring into the
racket-court and baggage-rooms ; so the maid told us. The
Captain gave us orders to row to a light we saw and come back
to the boat to get others — we were only twenty-four women
and four men, and we could have held sixty-five. It was the
stillest night possible, not a ripple on the water and the stars
wonderfully bright. The seaman, who was a splendid man,
wanted to go back and get more people into our boat, but a
discussion arose with the stewards, who said we had orders
from Captain Smith to row for the light and we had no right
to do anything else. . . .

We started to row to that awful light that never got nearer.
I was at the tiller steering, and the women in our boat rowed
with the one seaman for hours. . . . The terror of seeing the
ship go down and the fearful screams and shrieks of the steerage
passengers who were left was too awful. . . . Then the
dreadful noise of all the air-tight compartments going — going
. . . and then a noise like a distant battle or an earthquake,
and then the whole ship went under. . . . We had to row
away as far as we could because of the suction. We were in
that boat till dawn, following the light that never got nearer.
Then, suddenly, we saw the lights of this steamer, and we
turned and began to row towards her. . . . We got there
about 8.30, and it was beginning to get rough and very difficult
to steer. I was numb from the waist downwards — when we

got here we were pulled up in a hoist like a swing. N

went up just before me. I could not walk when I got up
as my legs had got numb. . . . N fainted directly she

r\

LETTERS FROM THE fHANIC, ETC. 281

got off the hoist ; the strain had been too much. Then all
the women came into the saloon — some unconscious, some
hysterical, and all more or less collapsed. They had brandy
for us and hot coffee, and they were wonderful — all they did
for us. There are about 150 young widows, and to see all
these poor women is too terrible. They have managed
accommodation for us all here, many sleeping on the floor
in the dining-saloon ; we have a cabin with four of us in it,
but are so thankful to be in anything. . . . The separating

of husbands and wives was ghastly. N and I are so

thankful we had no men relatives with us. . . .

Second letter :

On board the Carpathian
Thursday, iSth April, 191 2.

... I think we all feel a little better this morning, we
that are so fortunate in having lost no one, but all the poor
women's faces are piteous to see. Yesterday morning I was

very busy with a Miss B cutting out garments for the

steerage and second-class children, some of whom had no
clothes at all. We made little coats and leggings out of the
blankets, &c. — then I went round the steerage and hospital
with the doctor. . . . We are supposed to get into New York
to-night, but are still in fog. Under ordinary circumstances
they would not land us at night, but perhaps now they will.
If you could only imagine how we long for land. This water
all round is terrible. . . . The poor widows — oh ! it is dreadful

to see them. N and I have helped in looking after these

poor distressed souls, and it has helped us so much. . . . One
girl has just come up and given me stockings and gloves to
land in, as my stockings were all ripped up that night in the
boat. People are so good. . . . One lady who has her husband
saved (only about five of them have) is an American ; she is
going to ask a friend to take us round in her car in New York
to buy some things, as we have nothing but what we stand
up in. . . . All the crew, captain, passengers, and stewards
are perfectly sweet to us. There are two little French children
who have lost their father, and I take one of them every day
for a while. I love to do something, as it stops one think-
ing. . . .

Third letter, on reaching New York :

282 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

i^th April, 191 2. 1. 1 5 P.M.
... At last we are here safe and sound ; now that it is
all over one feels full of gratitude and thankfulness for the
deliverance from the dangers we have been brought through.
... It all seems like an ugly dream. . . . We got into the
dock last night at 9.30, after a dreadful time coming up the
river, with all the newspaper tugs that wanted to put pressmen
on board. Of course, our captain would allow no one on board
but the pilot. All the people meeting the boats stood under
their names, the officials standing in rows to keep back the
crowds. . . . The reports that had been circulated about the
condition of the passengers were terrible, and quite unstrung the
men who were meeting people. . . . Thank God I am here !

The Countess of Rothes, after arriving in England,
sent a letter to the present writer, from which the
following extract is taken :

5 Hyde Park Gate, S.W.

I have just returned . . . and am only so very sorry that
I cannot give you any information about your husband. . . .
I did not see anything of him at the time of the disaster. . . .
I hope that you are feeling stronger now. I cannot tell you
how much I sympathize with you in your great sorrow.

Mr. Shepherd, an American friend who was much
attached to Forbes Julian, went to the Cunard Pier
to meet the Carpathia in the hope of hearing some
tidings, and sent the following letter to the present
writer from New York :

New York,
2yd April, 1912.

I feel that I should let you know that ever since we received
the report of the terrible fate of the S.S. Titanic I have put
forth every effort to obtain some news from or about Mr.
Julian.

The night on which the Carpathia arrived I went to the
pier where the survivors were landed, but was unable to learn
anything that would be a comfort to you. . . . Knowing
Mr. Julian for a long time, I grew very fond of him, and I
feel and share with you the loss sustained by his most untimely
death.

1

CHAPTER XXIII

THE FOUNDERING OF THE THANIC

" Quit you like men, be strong "

il FTER leaving Queenstown the Titanic^ s run
ZA at 12 noon on Friday was 386 miles, on
X ^ Saturday 519, and on Sunday at noon 546.
The voyage during this half-week was pleasant
and uneventful ; the sea was calm and the weather
fine.

The present writer gathered some account of these
few days spent on the giant steamer from Lady Alice
Leslie, whose nieces, the Countess of Rothes and Miss
Gladys Cherry, were on board and afterwards rescued
from the Titanic^s boats by the Carpathia, Additional
information was received from friends of Colonel John
Weir and Mr. Hipkins. They both perished on the
vessel together with Forbes Julian, but their relatives
obtained accounts from passengers who had been saved.
She had also two visits at her house, during the long
illness that followed her bereavement, from another
survivor, who recognized her husband from the por-
traits, and stated : " I used to see that gentleman
walking up and down on the first-class deck very
rapidly every day." A conversation held on Saturday,
April 13th, with Forbes Julian was also repeated.

The general facts of the loss are known to the
public through the official inquiry, and under all the
circumstances the present writer has preferred to pass
over many particulars and to avoid making observations

283

284 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

on the tragedy, though having naturally a strong
opinion upon it.

On Sunday, April 14th, morning service v^^as held on
board in the saloon, and the account of the simple
evening service arranged by the Rev. Edgar Carter
will have been read by many people in the descriptions
given by survivors.

The details of the dreadful disaster are not yet
dulled in the public mind, so doubtless the accounts
of the ice v^arnings received during the Sunday v^ill be
readily recalled.

At 11.40 on Sunday night the collision w^ith the
iceberg occurred, and the injuries received by the
steamer WGie of such a nature that she sank in two
hours and forty minutes. Had she been able to
remain afloat a short time longer than she did, every-
one on board might have been saved, as Captain
Rostron, of the rescuing ship, the Carpathia, reached
the scene of the wreck about 4 o'clock in the morning.
" Coming hard " was his message by Marconigram
directly he knew of the disaster. Captain Ransom, of
the Baltic, and several other commanders also started
promptly for the work of rescue.

The loss of the great liner, which sank so rapidly
in the Atlantic abyss, carrying hundreds of men to
their deaths, constituted the most appalling catastrophe
in the maritime history of the world. It gave at once
a rude shock to the theory that even the largest ships
are unsinkable. In view of the first statement that
no lives had been lost, and that the Virginian was
standing by, a feeling of relief had prevailed. The
joy and gladness created by this statement were soon
dispelled. This and other conflicting messages received
only added a vast accumulation of agony to the dreadful
suspense and the alternations of hope and fear ; and
as hope died out, suspense gave way to despair.

FOUNDERING OF THE flfANIC 285

It has been shown elsewhere in this memoir that
Forbes Julian had extensive knowledge of the manage-
ment of boats, and there were probably many of the
passengers, both British and American, similarly
experienced. It was suggested, therefore, by a few of
his friends during these terrible days of uncertainty
that possibly he and other male passengers might have
been asked, in the scarcity of sailors, to form part of
a crew for the boats.

The Titanic foundered at 2.20 a.m. on Monday, the
15 th, carrying with her hundreds of male passengei^s,
some women, and a large proportion of the crew.
Probably in many of the chief towns of Great Britain
and America some of these passengers were known.
On this side of the Atlantic, Belfast and Southampton
especially were filled with grief and consternation at
the loss, the latter seaport being turned into a veritable
city of mourning, as nearly all the crew had their
homes there. Lamentation and distress were alike in
these humble cottages and in the mansions of the
wealthy ; rich and poor mourning together, and seeing
in imagination the same scene of horror, those they
loved struggling by the starlight in the ice-cold water
v^th none to save them. Very few men, even the
strongest, could long survive in the winter water of
the North Atlantic.

The survivor already referred to told the present
writer that a group of men amongst the first-class
passengers, who were well known by sight, had been
helping the women and children as the boats were
being lowered, and believed that her husband was
amongst them, adding : " None of these brave men
asked to be allowed to go in the boats." Testimony
as to Forbes Julian being in this group was given to an
American friend, Dr. Perkins, in New York, by another of
the survivors of the Titanic shortly after the catastrophe.

286 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

" It was felt from the first," wrote one who knew
Forbes Julian intimately, " that in such a situation as
that in which the passengers on the Titanic were
placed he would not be in the boats, but would be
amongst those who showed such great courage in
giving up their places for the safety of the women."
Another old friend declared : " He was not the man
to leave the ship as long as a woman or child remained
on board." With hundreds of other men, he stood
by to let the weak go first. Theirs be the praise that
they perished, whilst the helpless were rescued. The
number of men from the first and second class saved
numbered together rather fewer than the men saved
from the third class ; so that it is satisfactory to feel
that the steerage passengers were not unfairly treated.

The doom of those lost on the majestic steamer, the
largest and most magnificent ship that had ever been
constructed, called forth the sympathy of the whole
civilized world. The contrast between the fancied
security of the first few days on the great vessel and
the dreadful disaster of the closing night aroused
warm and deep feeling even in the most thoughtless.
The heroism of those who so bravely faced death also
evoked universal admiration. Just at the last, in one
case mentioned by Mr. LightoUer (the second officer),
when no women were in sight and a few men had
climbed into a boat, they got out immediately on
seeing some women come forward. The steamer was
going down rapidly by the head, and the water rising
higher and higher, whilst the boats were being sent
away ; yet those who remained behind showed the
greatest fortitude, although aware that they had no
possibility of leaving the sinking ship when the boats
had been dispatched. Mr. LightoUer spoke truly in
describing the conduct of the male passengers as
^' splendid." After the final boat had gone, when all

FOUNDERING OF THE THANIC 287

on board knew that the end must be near, the same
heroism was displayed as had been exhibited from the
first. This is mentioned by Mr. Lightoller and Colonel
Gracie. The heroic bandsmen continued to play to
instil courage. Even at the end, when numbers of
poor steerage passengers crowded on the deck,
Colonel Gracie wrote (in his pathetic and deeply
interesting paper) in the Outlook : " There was no
panic, though appalling death was evident in the near
future. At this point I may be permitted to make
the statement that, from my personal view-point at
the bow of the ship as well as elsewhere, I saw nothing
but unexampled self-sacrifice and self-control and the
greatest courage under the most harrowing circum-

stances."

After the ship sank, when escape from death seemed
well-nigh hopeless, both these courageous men swam
to an upturned collapsible boat. They were taken off
finally by a lifeboat, and reached the Carpathia safely.
A few months later one of the present writer's rela-
tives met Colonel Grade's sister and heard further
details. During the early morning of April 15th
Captain Rostron rescued all those in the boats. " I
thank God," said this brave sailor, " that I was within
wireless hailing distance, and that I got there in time
to pick up the survivors of the wreck." Before leaving
the scene of the tragedy he held a thanksgiving service
for the survivors, and a memorial service for those
who had perished. The account of the latter service
brought a slight measure of consolation to some of
those newly bereaved, to whom the thought of the
" vast and wandering grave " of those they mourned
seemed more fearful than " the narrow house " which
moves only with the earth's motion in the quiet
cemetery or churchyard, where the spring flowers
speak in each revolving year of the Resurrection.

288 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

Hundreds of miles were between those lost and their
homes, and no tender heart could softly come to see
their resting-place. " I think you can understand
why I held the service. I felt that you all would,"
Captain Rostron said in a letter to the present writer,
sent after returning to England.

In coming to the rescue so promptly in spite of the
great danger from ice, and in the excellence of all the
arrangements made, it was felt by everyone that the
commander of the Carpathia had done the very best
that could possibly have been done, and more than
many men might have been able to accomplish under
the circumstances. As to the terrible and tragic loss
of life, the dead being counted by hundreds, all the
far-reaching devices in use for procuring assistance
had been in vain. The wireless telegraphy vibrated
its appealing messages of distress over the dark waters
and summoned distant vessels, but they were not near
enough to save those not in the boats, and before the
Carpathia could reach the Titanic she had ended her
first and last voyage in spite of the despairing messages
that had sent out the appeal in ever-widening circles
through so many miles. The giant steamer, which
had been thought of as a huge lifeboat, proved the
coffin of many of the passengers and crew. Some went
down with the vessel, others cast themselves into the
water, still trusting that help might reach them on the
great deep in time to avert the dreadful destruction
that was impending.

Colonel Gracie, Mr. Bride, the Marconi operator,
and others on the upturned collapsible boat, relate
that they all constantly repeated the Lord's Prayer
together during this awful time of danger. Never
at service in crowded city or quiet country church
could such an appealing cry have been sent up
to the Great Creator and Preserver of Mankind,

FOUNDERING OF THE THANIC 289

all those of differing creeds and spheres of life uniting
and seeming to recognize no help or presence but that
of God in that supreme and solemn hour.

Concerning the number of persons rescued from the
Titanic^ Lord Mersey says (Report, p. 39) :

Of the 712 saved, 189 were, in fact, men of the crew, 129
were male passengers, and 394 were women and children.

It is abundantly evident, as already shown from the
testimony of Mr. LightoUer and Colonel Gracie, that
on that fearful night, even w^hen the last boats with
the women were going off and the danger was evident
to al], there was no unworthy panic, no trampling on
the weak, and that amid much temptation to be
selfish or cowardly, the brave, unselfish men left on
board rose to the highest traditions of manhood.
Their behaviour in choosing the path of honour, with
certain death before their eyes makes this loss a proud
sorrow, but cannot compensate for such a sacrifice.
Before sunrise almost all those left on the decks had
sunk beneath the waves of the ocean, a few only having
been picked up and rescued.

Until the Carpathia arrived in New York the list of
passengers saved could not be definitely known. The
remembrance of those days of suspense, of slowly
dwindling hope and intense mental suffering, must
ever remain burnt into the hearts and minds of the
widows and relatives newly bereaved. The terrible
certainty that hundreds of men had actually perished,
which during the first few days had only been partially
and imperfectly heard as a mysterious rumour, scarcely
believed, caused distress and dismay to thousands of
people for whom it was not a personal sorrow. Those
more closely concerned had felt from the first that it
must be true, as in the case of all overwhelming
calamities. For them life itself seemed to stand still
before the bitterness of this great bereavement.

290 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

A survivor w^hose letters w^ere seen by the present
writer described the parting of husbands and v^ives
as most terrible. Those in the boats w^itnessed the
most distressing horror of the night w^hen they saw^
the great vessel sink dovm before their eyes. No
element of terror vi^hich the mind can conceive could
have been w^anting in that fearful scene. A month
later the history of these last tragic moments v^as
related by a survivor to the present v^riter, w^ho, seeing
that she w^as very ill and so much affected as to break
dov^n completely, became also utterly overcome v^ith
emotion and unable to proceed with the narrative for
some time.

The tragic character of the disaster was heightened
by the thought of the many valuable lives sacrificed,
amongst them (to mention only a few) being the
Rev. Edgar Carter, Mr. Stead, Mr. Hipkins, Henry
Forbes Julian, with his friend Colonel John Weir,
Mr. Hayes, Major Butt, the artist Mr. T. D. Millet,
Mr. Widener, Mr. Ryerson, Mr. Thayer, and Mr.
Strauss — the Anglican clergyman, the noted journalist,
the British scientist, the brave bandsmen, the stokers,
and many of the courageous crew, faithful to the best
British traditions, going down together, vdth the
intrepid American military men and millionaires, all
choosing the better part and heroically giving up their
places in the boats to the women and children.

It is pathetic to think that a brave Englishwoman,
Mrs. Carter, and an equally devoted American wife,
Mrs. Strauss, perished with the husbands they would
not leave ; although a death so bravely met should
call forth envy rather than pity.

Colonel John Weir was elderly and infirm, and his
friend would not have left him to perish alone.
Forbes Julian would have instinctively put away the
thought of a selfish struggle for life, and it must have

FOUNDERING OF THE nTANIC 291

been a comfort to the elder man to feel that a friend
was at his side going with him into the darkness.

It is impossible to think that such lives were given
in vain. Public men whose name and work were
widely honoured, young men in the dawn of active
life, and poor and unknown emigrants perished
together, the widows and orphans who were left
meeting in that fellowship of suffering which raises
all souls above the conventionalities of existence. To
most of these men life must have been dear, and the
thought of sudden death bitter and dreadful. To
many of them existence was not only abundant in
the present, but full of the hope of further achieve-
ments in the future. Some were active workers who,
by their personal efforts and public services, were
entitled to special remembrance as scientists, men of
letters, great captains of industry. It has been truly
said that the young are sometimes impatient to die,
the old are often content to die, but men in the prime
of life mostly wish to live. As they leave youth
behind a feeling of the value of life increases : there
are projects to be fulfilled, books to be written, work
to be finished. To all, life is a talent never to be
regained.

In a single night, between sunset and sunrise, during
a few short hours of oblivion to many unconscious
slumberers, there had passed away from this earth
hundreds of lives, some rich in promise with apparently
happy futures, carrying with them all the hopes of
other lives. But the Christian constancy and courage,
the absolute self-renunciation and unflinching heroism
with which so many met their doom, help us to realize
that death is not the end of all things, and that this
life is but the entrance into the true life, that it is
but the portal of Eternity.

What was the measure of the dread disaster, what

292 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

of the momentary death pang, when " brought face
to face with eternal being " ?

It may be recalled that during a quarter of a century
of active work Forbes Julian had seen life in many
lands, having visited the United States six times and
Canada and South Africa each four times. He had
been once to Mexico and once to the West Indies,
besides making an extensive tour in Eastern Europe.
With regard to the numerous long land journeys taken
in South and Central Africa, and in frequently crossing
the continent of North America, it is calculated that
he had travelled by land and sea considerably over a
hundred thousand miles — equal, roughly speaking, to
four times the circumference of the globe. Thus he
was equally familiar with ocean and lake, with snowy
mountain and southern sky. Ever modest as to his
own achievements, he seldom spoke about himself and
scarcely ever about his journeys. The well-remem-
bered tropical scenery of South Africa and California,
the great lakes and forests of Canada, the unique
architectural remains of ancient Mexico, the solemn
stillness of the ocean, the peace of great wildernesses
on the prairie and the veld — these things were not
dwelt on to others. Less travelled friends in England
were therefore never afraid of hearing long-winded
narratives prefaced with " When I was in such and
such a place." The foreign acquaintance made
abroad, who frequently supposed that British people
travelled so much because they had no inducement
to stay at home, were not contradicted. Without
sacrificing his own point of view, he was able to make
due allowance not only for other people's -opinions
but for much that was prejudiced or distorted in their
conception of British life and thought. A peacemaker
in every quarrel, he never suspected his own influence

FOUNDERING OF THE 1:HANIC 293

for good. There seemed about him ever an atmosphere
of humanity and kindly feeling. He was invariably
sympathetic and interested in others. *' I do not
think he had an enemy in the world. I never heard
him say an unkind word of anyone, and he put the
best construction on everything," remarked a barrister
who had known him for years.

In his travels he threw himself heartily into the
customs of the countries visited, thus making friends
all along the route ; and he had that special mark of
a fine nature, that no outward circumstances made the
slightest difference to his demeanour.

His life was blessed with strong affections, warm
friendships, and congenial family surroundings, amongst
" the friends given by Nature," as the French describe
it. The cordial relations subsisting with his scientific
colleagues, the sincere affection between him and his
relatives, and the confidence and respect shown by his
servants continued until the end.

In his dealings with his fellow-men he was invariably
considerate to the poor as well as the rich. He had the
social gift of being a good listener, following with
attention the point of view of others, never laying down
the law, engrossing the conversation, or correcting
those whom he thought mistaken. Concerning his
uprightness of character, one of the friends who knew
him best wrote : " No one ever thought of questioning
either his word or his motive."

Being in the full vigour of manhood when death
closed his career, it was felt that much valuable
scientific work might have been accomplished had his
life been spared ; but this was not to be. In the
fullness of his powers and activity the call came, and
with many men on the Titanic he gave up his life
quite simply to save the weak. He might have
escaped as did other male passengers, but, in the words

294 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

of the ship's second officer, he " died like a man."
Happy they who were so gloriously faithful to duty in
the solemnity of that awful hour. " I think it was the
death he would have chosen," wrote a Canadian friend
who knew him well. It was surely a fitting end to an
unselfish life to close it by rendering assistance to
helpless women and children ; nor could they have
found any champion more kindly and considerate.
Passing much time in the free and irresponsible life of
the mining districts of South Africa and North
America amongst a mixed and motley cosmopolitan
society, where gambling and speculation were common
and old beliefs and restraints had frequently gone
adrift, where many loose-living men were sinking in
the mire and others walking in the dry places of a
barren scepticism, whilst enthusiasms of all kinds had
burnt low, he preserved his steady course, undisturbed
and unaffected by the contagion of this environment.
In the country his love of nature and quick suscepti-
bility to all that was grand and beautiful in the world
of sense kept him always happy ; and the society of
friends made on his travels brightened the absences
from home. Goodwill towards his fellow-men filled
his heart and was shown in his genial smile. He had
the look of concentrated thought, but his expression
was kindly rather than keen or penetrating. He de-
voted himself wholeheartedly to metallurgical science,
but had a strong love for human nature. Although
during the changing scenes of his fifty years he knew
many hardships, yet his life was happy and useful
until his varied career drew to its solemn close, and
the nobility of his death called forth universal respect
and esteem.

He shared deeply in the many interests of his time,
and paid close attention to the broader aspects of
political questions, but had little concern with party

FOUNDERING OF THE nfANIC 295

struggles, all the engrossing worE of his life being
scientific, not political. Having the true pioneer
spirit, every element in his natural character together
with his early experiences combined to give this turn
to his mind, which was innovating and original.
He entered fully into the independent researches of
science, and also into those issues of practical philan-
thropy which appeal so strongly to a thoughtful and
sympathetic nature, taking a warm interest in the
welfare of the people and in all wise schemes for their
benefit.

As regards theological matters, he took the side of
free and comprehensive instead of precise and ex-
clusive views. A Broad Churchman, concerned rather
with conduct than with creed, never particularly
anxious to fit everything into a hard-and-fast system,
he valued chiefly the essentials of religion — zeal for
truth, sympathy with man, love of God.

A practical representation of Christianity had a
charm for him greater than that felt for those more
dogmatic systems in which so many minds find their
chief comfort and support. He heartily appreciated
the services of the Church, the beauty of sacred archi-
tecture, the power of solemn music.

He sought faithfully to follow the way of upright-
ness and unselfishness in life, therefore he showed the
true spirit of self-sacrifice in death ; hence the good
work which he did and the good example that he left —
these remain, and blossom and bear fruit.

A service held in his memory on April 29th at the
church of St. Mary Magdalene, Torquay, was largely
attended, the officiating clergy being the Rev. E. P.
Gregg (rector of the parish), the Ven. A. H. Simms
(Archdeacon of Totnes), Prebendary Airy, and the
Rev. F. W. Gedye. The musical portion of the service
was finely rendered by the full choir, the three hymns

296 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

chosen — " Now the labourer's task is o'er," " Rock of
Ages," and " Nearer, my God, to Thee " — being sung
with much feeling by the whole congregation.
Although considerable doubt exists as to the last
hymn having been played by the bandsmen of the
Titanic after the catastrophe, it was certainly sung at
the service held on board by the Rev. Edgar Carter
not long before the collision. There were present at
the memorial service many representatives of different
shades of thought : two Presbyterian divines, several
Roman Catholics, a Unitarian minister, and members
of various Free Churches. Sympathizing friends
included the late Senator for New York State, the
president and members of committee of the Torquay
Natural History Society, many well-known naval and
military officers, and several scientific friends. No
tribute to his memory, no act of sympathy to his
widow, were withheld. For them all she has no
adequate words of gratitude. " The crowded church,"
wrote Prebendary Statham, who was present, " testified
to the general sympathy." Alluding to the heroism
shown on the Titanic, the Prebendary wrote :

The essence of all divinity lies in sacrifice and surrender.
" God so loved the world that He gave His only-begotten
Son " is the story of the Gospel, and what God does Himself
He expects His children to do. The words of the Saviour
about His own self-sacrifice — " Therefore doth My Father
love Me, because I lay down My life " — may be extended to
all the human family. And the spirit of self-sacrifice is there ;
overlaid it may be by the pride of wealth, by the cynicism of
great intellect, by the rudeness and roughness of the life of
toil ; it lies there a fire ready to be kindled into life by the
fiery torch of calamity. " In the image of God made He
man," and as there is sorrow " in the presence of the angels
of God " when that image seems overlaid or lost, so, when
it shines forth before the world " bringing many sons to
glory," we feel sure that it is a moment of Divine joy.

CHAPTER XXIV

SYMPATHY OF THEIR MAJESTIES THE KING AND
QUEEN. APPRECIATION OF FRIENDS

SOON after the tragedy his widow was honoured
by receiving a letter expressing the sympathy
of His Majesty the King through Viscount
Knollys, from which the following extract may be
given :

His Majesty sincerely sympathizes with you in your irre-
parable loss, and feels deeply for you and for all those to whom
the loss of the Titanic has been the cause of such great sorrow.
The King remembers very well his visit to your house at
Torquay, and how much also he was interested in the geological
collections.

She was also honoured by receiving the following
letter from Buckingham Palace, conveying through
Mr. Wallington the sympathy of Her Majesty the
Queen :

Her Majesty feels very much for you in the irreparable loss
which you have sustained. It must, however, be some con-
solation to you and your relatives to feel that your husband
was amongst those who displayed such great heroism in
sacrificing their lives to secure the safety of the women and
children.

A gracious letter from Marlborough House was
also received, communicating the condolence of Her
Majesty Queen Alexandra, through Sir H. Streatfeild,
and expressing

Her Majesty's heartfelt sympathy in the terrible loss you
have sustained and interest in your late husband's useful and
varied life. . . .

297

298 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

Friends and colleagues of all shades of opinion joined
in deploring his death, and amongst the many victims
of the dreadful disaster few can have been more
sincerely mourned, as a few sentences from some of
the many hundreds of letters received, containing
affectionate tributes to his memory from men of
diverse views, may serve to illustrate.

The Bishop of Exeter wrote :

He had in a comparatively short life done much useful work,
and his death leaves his country poorer in respect of its best
riches — the mind and character of its sons. I very much
wish I could be with you on Monday (for the Memorial
service), but I am imperatively called to London that day for
work which needs my presence, and which I can neither miss
nor postpone without serious inconvenience to others. I
shall, however, be with you in thought and prayer. It was
strange and pathetic his being on board the titanic. . . .
May you be joined together in the eternal Easter and the risen
life in Christ ; and meanwhile, may God give you that comfort
which He alone has to bestow.

The Bishop of Crediton :

Your good husband was indeed a true man, of exceptional
powers and ability, and yielded up his life in most heroic spirit.
He was diligent in acquiring knowledge of a high class, and
in his present condition of life will have more powers to learn
things divine as they come from the Hands of the Great
Creator. We can think of him as pursuing the study of those
things which afforded him so much pleasure while in the flesh,
with an understanding illuminated in the nearer Presence of
God. Your comfort will be in sharing in his joy, as you are
able to while still here, and in looking forward to experiencing
those deeper joys together in a painless, deathless, sinless
life.

Bishop Welldon :

So useful a life, so noble a death, will be to you an ever-
inspiring memory, but I dare not try to realize how great your
bereavement must be. Pray God comfort you.

APPRECIATION OF FRIENDS 299

The Bishop of Llandaif :

I was very grieved indeed to hear of your sad loss, and I am
so sorry that I had not an opportunity of coming to see you,
but I was called away from Torquay very suddenly on account
of serious illness.

Bishop Boyd Carpenter (who paid the widow a
visit of consolation and wished to take part in the
Memorial Service, but was prevented by absence)
wrote :

I am due to preach in London on Sunday and to speak at
Derby on Monday. I wish it had been otherwise. We shall
think of you, and you know that our hearts are with you.

Bishop Ryle (Dean of Westminster) :

Your dear husband ! The sympathy of us all goes out
towards you. May God give you strength, courage, and faith,
so that you may bravely endure this blow, and witness to the
strength of belief among scientific people in the immortality
of the soul and in our joyful reunion through Christ.

The Archdeacon of Totnes :

Nothing can rob you of the power and influence of the
time that you have passed with a man so highly endowed as
your husband was with excellent gifts ; and you have a solid
foundation for the Eternal Hope by which even now heavy
sorrow may be overcome.

The Rev. Prebendary Statham :

I am sure you will be sustained by the courage of your
husband's end. " The Noble Army of Martyrs Praise Thee,"
and in that Noble Army it is good to have our dear ones
enrolled.

A Sister of Charity :

If ever I should be in a like situation I would wish to be
brave enough to give my life to save others rather than be
saved myself. You have the great consolation of knowing
that Mr. Julian acted thus bravely and unselfishly.

300 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

Countess de Alcoy (a member of an old Spanish
Roman Catholic family) :

Believe me, dear friend, that the part I have in your sorrow
is greater than you can imagine ; not one moment are you
out of my thoughts, and only God can give you strength.
So good a husband, so kind a friend ; the loss seems almost too
much grief for a human heart to bear.

The Rev. Dr. Townsend, past President of the
Free Church Council, an eminent Methodist Minister :

As to the dear one who has gone, I hope you will be able
to think of him, not as being in the deep ocean, but as seeing
the King in His beauty and being for ever safe from disaster
and sorrow, and that God may fulfil to you the exceeding
great and precious promises whereby we are made partakers
of the Divine nature.

Another Nonconformist (a Congregationalist) :

A nation sorrows with you, and the knowledge must have
upbearing power, yet of the agony of your sudden bereavement
none of us can do more than faintly dream. But you will
rejoice for him, called first to the fellowship of the Redeemer's
sufferings and then, we believe, so immediately entering into
His joy.

A member of the Society of Friends :

I think great sorrow and great loss seem to bring the other
world nearer to us and help us to draw closer to the Comforter
who is promised to us all. What a time of heroism it was !
One can but feel that God's Holy Spirit must have been near
to help and sustain them.

The Rev. A. E. O'Connor, Unitarian Minister,
sent a letter expressing

Grief and sincere sympathy in this great sorrow.

The Rev. N. Wallace, a Presbyterian divine, and
his wife, wrote saying :

We were often remembering you during the last sad fort-
night at our family altar . . . and we sympathize most

APPRECIATION OF FRIENDS 301

deeply in the loss of your dear husband under such tragic
circumstances. Words of comfort fail us, but there is One
who knows your sorrow, to whose pitifulness and tender
sympathy we most prayerfully commend you — ^Jesus Christ,
the same loving Saviour to-day as when He stood by the grave
of Lazarus and gave the soul-inspiring message, " I am the
Resurrection and the Life."

An intimate friend :

It may be some comfort to you to feel how greatly your
dear husband was beloved and honoured, how everyone feels
his passing hence was a noble ending to a brave, unselfish life —
that he would never have thought for one moment of his own
safety, but have been the very first to step aside, sacrificing his
chance for others, setting a shining example even in that
company of heroes who went with him through the mighty
testing to the welcome of their great Captain.

Another old friend wrote :

Those who knew your husband are not likely to forget the
kind and courteous gentleman, so learned and yet so unassu-
ming, whom it was such a privilege to know. What fitter
resting-place for one who delighted in Nature's wonders than
the Great Deep.

Sir Arthur Quiller Couch, the well-known novelist :

I did not know that the foundering of the titanic had so
struck home to the daughter of my old friend. I am sorry
indeed for you, although yours is a proud sorrow. It is clear —
and the knowledge of it helps us all — that there were true men
on board who, like your husband, died splendidly in the old
pride of race. It is clear that the route always involves playing
with risk . . . but even so the blow of the iceberg was a
peculiarly terrible one. It is equally clear to me that on the
doomed ship an enormous proportion of the passengers behaved
nobly, and I certainly believe that your husband was among
the noblest.

General Spragge :

J want to express my deep feeling of admiration for one

302 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

who closed a good life by a noble, self-sacrificing death, and of
whom everyone who bears the British name must be proud.

General D'Aguilar Jackson :

I must write to express our heartfelt sympathy with you.
Yesterday in church, while the whole congregation were
standing during the playing of the Funeral March, I felt
exactly as if I were standing at a brother officer's grave, and
that officer your dear husband.

Colonel Burn, Member for the Torquay Division,
wrote from the House of Commons :

Human sympathy is of little avail ; we earnestly pray that
God may sustain and comfort you in your great trial.

Several letters were received from other Members
of both Houses of Parliament.

The Right Honourable James Bryce, British Ambas-
sador at Washington ;

I had not heard of the great sorrow you have suffered by
the loss of your husband on the Titanic^ and Mrs. Bryce and
I desire to offer you our sincere condolence. We have only
just returned from a long journey, and so did not know of it.

I retain, I need not say, a very agreeable recollection both
of the visit you and he paid to us here and also of the services
rendered to science.

The Hon. N. N. Stranahan (formerly Senator for
New York State) :

We feel much sympathy and are so grieved to hear of your
great trouble in this dreadful disaster and tragedy, which
has bereft you of your husband.

Mr. Eden Phillpotts, the Devonian authoi :

I remember the occasions in the past when it was my privi-
lege to meet your brave husband. It is a pleasure to me to
know that my books sometimes brought the West country a
little nearer for him when he was far away from it.

APPRECIATION OF FRIENDS 303

Lady Alice Leslie :

I want to write, for it came so very near us, as we had our
two nieces on board (Lady Rothes and Miss Gladys Cherry),
who were both mercifully saved, and my heart bleeds for those
who have lost relatives. Knowing how devoted you and
Mr. Julian were, you must let me say how truly and deeply I
feel for such an overwhelming sorrow as yours.

Admiral Sir William and the Honourable Lady
Acland :

We have been thinking of you all through these terrible days.
May God help and comfort you ! The men were brave and
sacrificed their lives to save the weak, but it is terribly hard
for those who are left behind.

The Honourable Helen Cubitt :

In the midst of the grief, you will feel your dear one is
amongst the roll of his country's heroes, who will be mourned
and honoured as long as England lasts.

Lady Olpherts :

I have gone through these deep waters, but if we are with
our Saviour, leaning on Him, we get strength and support
and the comfort our loving Father can and will give.

Mrs. Thackeray :

Can you think of the gain to him yet ? It seems as if that
were the only comfort from the terrible loss to you and those
who loved him. I feel sure his last act was to help others ;
that was always his way. ... He came to tea on my last
visit to town, and when I was saying how much I thought
of you his face lighted up with his wonderful smile ; I am so
thankful for even that last glimpse of him. To know a good
man is to be helped heavenward. God help you now and ever,
dear.

Amongst scientific friends his loss was keenly felt.
The late Sir Robert Ball, the distinguished astro-

304 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

nomer, who had been suffering from two months'
serious illness, wrote from Cambridge Observatory :

Please accept the profound sympathy of myself and my wife.
Surely there never was any catastrophe that merited and
received such world-wide sympathy as this. His was truly a
noble life sacrificed.

Professor and Mrs. Poult on, of Oxford :

We both feel very deeply for you in your terrible and tragic
loss.

Dr. and Mrs. Smith Woodward (Natural History
Museum, South Kensington) :

You will find a ray of consolation in the fact that he gave
his life for others, and in that noble deed will always live in
the memories of those privileged with his acquaintance.

Professor and Mrs. Meldola :

Your husband died, with many others, a hero's death. It
must be a consolation to those bereaved that the names of
their loved ones will live for ever in the memory of all who
cherish brave deeds.

Professor Sir E. A. Schafer, of Edinburgh, President
of the British Association :

I tender you my sincerest sympathy in the grievous calamity
that has befallen you. The one consolatory reflection is that
your husband's death was a noble one.

Sir Archibald Geikie, the President of the Royal
Society :

The newspaper gives me the first intimation of the staggering
blow that has fallen upon you. I hasten to offer my heartfelt
sympathy and to express my earnest hope that you will be
enabled to bear up under the shock of such a tragedy. It is
almost an intrusion upon the sacredness of your sorrow to
venture to write to you at this time, but the sympathy of
your friends may bring you some little comfort, and in that
hope I send you these few lines.

APPRECIATION OF FRIENDS 305

Sir Henry Roscoe :

I sympathize with you deeply in the terrible loss you have
sustained, and am interested to remember that your talented
husband was an old pupil of mine, and that he was*good enough
to say that I had influenced his career.

Professor and Mrs. Myres, of Oxford :

We pray that the God of all comfort may be very near you
in this time of spiritual need.

Sir Anderson Critchett :

If anything can bring a measure of comfort in such a deep
trouble it is the knowledge that your dear one died the death
of a hero, and has left a glorious example to generations yet
to come ; but the loss of such a man must indeed be hard to
bear.

Lady Flower :

I do not like the time to pass without trying to express the
warm sympathy I feel with you, dear Hester, in the loss of
your dear husband. You have the comfort of knowing he
died nobly, whilst you can look forward to meeting him again
in the great Future Life, as I experienced so deeply with
my own dear husband.

Sir William and Lady Crookes :

Your sad bereavement has only just come to our notice.
We assure you of our deep sympathy. It was a national
calamity. It is some consolation to know how bravely our
fellow-countrymen gave up their lives to save the women.

Mr. Edgar Rickard, Manager of the Mining Maga-
zine :

I have known him for a number of years, but only recently
has. it been my good fortune to see him almost daily, and I
feel the better for the inspiration and good he imbued in every-
one who came in contact with him.

Mr, Humphreys :

I know that you will be brave, and proud of the fact that

3o6 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

in sacrificing his life for the women and children he died a hero.
There are few who are regarded with such affection and
esteem amongst their fellow-men as he was, and his loss is
keenly and widely felt. The metallurgical engineers of the
world have lost a brilliant, yet most modest, comrade.

Mr. G. S. Simpson :

To know him was to esteem and love him.

Mr. Pollard Digby :

Long before I ever met him his name was familiar to me.
It was a pleasure and privilege to have as a courteous friend
one whom I had before esteemed as the possessor of a brilliant
reputation. Added to these recollections we have now the
memory of him as a sharer in the heroism of those who died
on the titanic and shared in the glorious example of chivalrous
duty.

Writing from Cambridge, Sir J. J. Thomson, the
great physicist, said :

I offer you my most sincere sympathy in the loss you have
sustained — z loss so great that words seem almost a mockery.
It must, however, be a great consolation to you to know that
of all the ways in which death can come, none is so noble aS
when it does so in helping to save the lives of others.

Lady Thomson also wrote :

We never knew until to-day that one of our friends was
among the number of those noble lives whose unselfishness
and calmness in death have evoked the undying admiration
of the world. Their memory will never be forgotten. And
terrible as the sacrifice of life has been, you will know, even
in the midst of sorrow, that such a sacrifice goes far to ennoble
the nation which can claim such heroes as its own.

Many appreciative communications were received
from scientists in various parts of the world ; savants
in France and Italy ; German engineers of Frank-
fort and Berlin ; metallurgists in Canada, Mexico,
and the United States ; mining men from South

APPRECIATION OF FRIENDS 307

Africa ; and other friends widely separated in distant
lands.

Mr. Anderberg, Stockholm :

Personally I mourn in Mr. Julian a very good friend for
whom I had the greatest regard, both on account of his geniality
and his kindness. There were certainly none of my English
friends that I felt more honoured in knowing.

Herr Crohn, Berlin :

Who can console you in this time of sorrow ? . . . My
dear friend, Mr. Julian, said that ever since the first day of his
marriage he had been a perfectly happy man. And you will
think of this when you bow to the Creator's will.

Mr. Leonard, the Canadian mining authority,
wrote from Ontario :

I was much impressed by the remarkable knowledge possessed
by Mr. Julian, more particularly in cyaniding, in which par-
ticular he was recognized as a world-wide authority. The
whole mining world has suffered the loss of a man whose place
it will be difficult to fill.

Dr. Synnott, of New Jersey :

I formed the highest opinion of Mr. Julian's character and
abilities.

Mr. C. B. McCormick, of Chicago :

The brave Titanic men who went down are for ever a glory
in their manhood and courage to England and America.

Mr. and Mrs. Carroll, of Boston :

We were indeed shocked to hear that Mr. Julian was a
victim of the ill-fated Titanic. His loss to the scientific world
will be very great indeed, and also to his friends far and wide.

A friend from Australia sent the following expression
of appreciation :

Your great consolation must be that your beloved one
met a hero's death, that he is one of the company of noble men

3o8 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

whose courage and self-sacrifice have made them immortal
in British history — in the world's history, indeed.

A distinguished Englishman who had spent many
years in Japan also sent words of truest sympathy
and sorrow.

An Anglo-Indian friend :

Words seem utterly inadequate at such a time of heart-
rending sorrow ; your dear husband gave up his life in the
noblest spirit. " Greater love hath no man than this, that
a man lay down his life for his friends."

Writing from the Transvaal, Mr. Edgar Smart said :

I venture, as one of your husband's oldest friends, to send
a few words to let you know how much we sympathize with
you in your sorrow. Mr. Julian's name as one of the missing
passengers was cabled to Johannesburg some time ago, but
I have been hoping against hope that there might be some
mistake. There is this consolation, that Mr. Julian was one
of the heroes who chose the better part to give safety to the
women and children.

Mr. Rintoul, of Turflontein, South Africa, alluded
to him as " one who was taken away from his many
friends and admirers at such an early stage."

Mr. Livingstone Sulman wrote :

I have known your husband for many years, and from the
first in the Transvaal regarded him with the highest admiration.
Of late years we had seen much of him, and both my partner
and myself fell under the spell of his quiet magnetism. . . .
I cannot, therefore, express the shock that the terrible news
of your husband's loss brought with it for us. The only
comfort we can offer is our certain knowledge that Death,
among the thousand heroes of the titanic, found none more
calmly strong nor more resolutely ready. I think of him as
inspiring those about him with his own unconscious nobility
and preparedness, and quietly repelling any fleeting panic in
those around him. Death had no terrors for him, and he
must have eased the passage across the dark water for many.

APPRECIATION OF FRIENDS 309

' Sympathizing letters were also received from Captain
Rostron, commander of the rescuing ship the Car-
fathia, and three of the survivors of the titanic —
the Countess of Rothes, Miss Gladys Cherry, and
Mr. Lightoller, the second officer, Vi^ho vi^rote : " Your
husband died like a man."

Numerous touching tributes poured in from v^orking
people and others in humble v^alks of life. " We all
knew that Mr. Julian would not go in the boats when
there was not room to take everybody," said a cabman
who had frequently driven him from Torquay Station.
Similar testimony was borne by several of his old
servants, and others who had worked for him at
different times. " He died a brave hero in the sight
of God and man," wrote one of them.

That his name was thus held in affectionate remem-
brance by so many of those who had served him, and
that he had secured such a high place in their regard,
is not the least that can be said in his praise. Their
letters bear abundant testimony to his kindness and
private virtues, forming a remarkable record of
sympathy from the poor as well as the rich.

Commenting on this, his friend Sir William White
wrote ;

You will know how sincerely we all sympathize with you
in your great loss, and it is good to know that that sympathy
is so widespread and embraces all classes, from their Majesties
the King and Queen down to the humblest of those to whom
you and your husband were known.

Some months after the tragedy occurred a Com-
mittee was formed with the object of providing a
lasting tribute to his memory in the Church of St.
Mary Magdalene, Torquay, where his marriage had
been solemnized, and where also the largely attended
memorial service had been held.

310 HENRY FORBES JULIAN

The Committee consisted of the following members :

Admiral Sir William Acland, C.V.O. ; the Hon. Lady
Acland ; Maxwell Adams, Esq., Hon. Sec. Devon Association ;
Sir Robert Ball, LL.D., F.R.S. ; Rev. J. O. Bevan, M.A.,
F.S.A., F.G.S. ; Captain Brine ; the Hon. Helen Cubitt ;
Mrs. Hamilton Cumming ; Miss M. M. Candy ; Miss A. V.
Dutton ; Rev. E. P. Gregg, M.A. ; Dr. F. H. Gervis ; Rev.
W. W. Goldsworthy, M.A. ; Dr. Harley Gough ; Miss M.
Gray ; Miss Alice Heath ; General D'Aguilar Jackson ; Major
MacMahon, LL.D., F.R.S. ; Professor Myres (Oxford) ;
H. L. Sulman, Esq., F.LC, M.LM.M. ; Hon. N. N. Stranahan
(Ex-Senator U.S.A.); Sir J. J. Thomson, O.M., F.R.S.
(Cambridge) ; W. Whitaker, Esq., F.R.S., F.G.S. ; A. W.
Wilkinson, Esq.

Mr. Livingstone Sulman, a member of the Com-
mittee, wrote to the widow in the following terms :

Just as the most enduring claim to the enthusiastic regard
of our later generations has been to have been one of " the
noble Six Hundred," or to have stood in the red line on the
deck of the Birkenhead, so it is wished to commemorate your
dear husband's participation in the " Communion of heroism "
of that glorious company on the Titanic, whose self-denial
called forth the admiration of the whole world.

The opposite page shows the inscription for the
Memorial which was contributed by another member
of the Committee, the Rev. J. O. Bevan, with the
assistance of Bishop Boyd Carpenter.

It was unveiled by the Ven. Archdeacon Simms
on February 24th, 1914, in the presence of a large
congregation.

Ad Majorem Dei Gloriam
THIS TABLET

IS ERECTED BY A WIDE CIRCLE OF FRIENDS

IN AFFECTIONATE REMEMBRANCE

OF

HENRY FORBES JULlAN

Member of the Institution of Mining and Metallurgy,

Born Ascension Day, 9th May, i86i ;

Married in this Church 30th October, 1902 ;

Passed away 15th April, I912,

During the whole of his working life h^ laboured
at the solution of metallurgical problems in
three Continents, and both by his writings and
practical skill exercised an influence which will
long endure.

He was amongst those who gaVe their lives for
others in the disaster which befell the R.M.S.
titanic. This heroism and self-denial called
forth admiration from the throne to the cottage.

** Greater love hath no man than this, that a
man lay down his life for his friends."

4

J9J92

Julian, Hester (Pengelly)

Memorials of Henry Forbes
Julian

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